Rolex Explorer 214270 - Review and impressions...

[AIDM]

Rolex Explorer 214270




Intro & potted model history, (skip to pics below for the uninterested!)


Early days...

Much has been written about the development of the Explorer and the Rolex marketing machine has been in operation for many years linking their watches with adventures and Adventurers long before the successful ascent of Everest for which it has become intrinsically linked, whatever the truth of that particular mythology may be.

The ‘Explorer’ itself is a direct descendant of the early ‘bubbleback’ oyster cased Rolex watches and according to Martin Skeet and Nick Ural in their excellent ‘Vintage Rolex Sports Models – A complete visual reference & unauthorised history ’ reference book, (from which I have taken most of the information on history here) the first prototype models, (6098) were launched in the early 1950’s and issued to the ’53 Everest expedition. Neither the 6098, nor the following 6298 models actually had the Explorer name on the dial, but the latter was the first to use the now instantly recognizable ‘3,6,9’ style ‘Quarter Arabic’ dial.

These were followed by the 6150, later versions were the first fitted with the ‘Mercedes’ handset and the 6350, basically a re-referenced 6150 but the first to sport the ‘Explorer’ dial text.

A few more iterations were released, including 6610, 5500 and 5504 sporting various developments such as the flush fitting end links for the bracelet, (earlier models had straight ended bracelets with the resulting gap between the lugs) and passing anomalies such as red printed depth ratings, ‘super precision text and a white seconds hand, before the launch in 1959 of the Explorer 1016.

The 1016 was the first Explorer with the exact form and aesthetic that has gone on to become the modern watch, with the minute track arrangement around the dial edge, ‘Superlative Chronometer’ text, Quarter Arabic dial, Mercedes hands and Oyster case and bracelet that have become synonymous with the model.

Many further minor iterations of the 35.5mm 1016 followed, along with the smaller 34mm cased 5500 models, perhaps most notable, (certainly in collectors eyes) being the truly rare ‘Space Dweller’ version of the 1016 released in 1963 to commemorate a visit to Japan by the astronauts of NASAs Mercury Space Programme.


Explorer II...

The 1655 Explorer II arrived in 1971 and was replaced in 1985 by the 16550, itself replaced by the 16570 and more recently the 42mm 216570. I have owned a 16570 in the past and very much enjoyed it whilst I had it, but ultimately the call of other things and a couple of minor niggles, (mainly the tiny and insubstantial crown) led to Sales Corner. But this review is about the Explorer, rather than the Ex II...


Modern Era...

For the ‘original’ Explorer a big change came in 1989 with the release of the 14270 that heralded many ‘upgrades’ including Sapphire crystal, gloss dial with white gold surrounds to the markers, a redesigned 36mm case and the calibre 3000 movement. The 114270 followed in 2001, upgraded with the 31 jewelled 3130 calibre, (compared to the 27 jewels in the cal 3000) and solid end links to the bracelet, but retaining the 36mm case and pressed clasp. Later 114270 models included the ‘Rolex Branded Rehaut’, (RBR) ie. ROLEXROLEXROLEX along with the serial number engraved around the rehaut.

But arguably the biggest shake up to the Rolex Explorer range came in 2010 with the release of the 214270. The most obvious change being the increase of case diameter from the traditional 36mm to a more modern 39mm. The movement was also upgraded to the calibre 3132, along with changes to the dial, bracelet and clasp, full details of which are discussed below...


The Review


Why the 214270 for me..?

I had been a long time admirer of the Explorer and especially of the older 1016 models, but the 36mm diameter case had always held me back. My wrist is not overly large at between 7.5” and 7.75” and my personal comfort zone for watches lies between 38mm and 42mm, depending of course on a number of associated factors such as depth, lug to lug measurements etc...

I had read many posts stating that the 36mm Explorer was the way to go, the lack of a wide bezel making the watch wear bigger, etc. etc. and in fact I tended to agree that the proportions of the 36mm, at least in pictures, seemed more appropriate, more historically apt, but still the nagging issue with the size bothered me.

However, the urge to try grew until one of my standard Ebay saved searches threw up a rather beaten up looking Zeno Explorer at reasonable money. I managed to win the auction and eagerly awaited its arrival...





Oh, what a beautiful little thing it was. A quick scrub up, a polish and a touch of polywatch on the plexi crystal had it looking like new. But oh, how disappointed was I in the size. I tried, honestly I tried, but on my wrist, (and in my head) the 36mm case looked like a boys watch. Often, when I change between one of my smaller 38mm watches to something at 42mm, there is a short period of adjustment while my eye gets used to the change, but despite wearing the ZEX for a fair while, the adjustment never came. It looked small as I strapped it on, it looked small every time I looked at it over the next few hours. In truth, I knew the second I unwrapped it that it wasn’t going to work for me.

So that left the 214270. A watch that I had been considering along with the 36mm models for quite some time and a watch that had been growing on me the whole time. A couple of sales left me in the lucky position of having enough in the watch pot for something nice and the decision came down to three; another Seadweller, perhaps a 16660 matte dial; a 42mm Explorer II 216750; a 39mm Explorer 214270.

In reality, (and despite a period of my usual procrastination) there was no contest and a great offer of 15% off list for a BNIB UK AD supplied watch left me with no more thinking required. A deal was struck and one of the nicest, subtle, perfectly proportioned watches I have ever been privileged enough to own arrived...


The box and papers...

This was my first experience of the new style Rolex box and strangely photos I had seen had left me a little cold.

But with it in front of me as I slid off the white card slip and exposed the light green outer box with the embossed Rolex crown it just felt very special. Lifting off the lid and easing out the green leather inner box with applied gold crown the first thing that hits you is the leather ‘new car’ smell and how much sturdier and sold the box feels in comparison to the older style I was more accustomed to.





Inside, the plush, sculpted lining nestles a nicely formed watch cushion, along with the hang tag, chronometer seal, cards and booklets, the latter secreted within their own little compartment in the lid.

The watch comes with a Rolex Explorer booklet, again nicely embossed with a representation of the watch and containing operation instructions, some history and specification and details of the guarantee and after sales services. With that is a green leather wallet containing a booklet with the Guarantee, the Official Chronometer Certification and worldwide service centre addresses and the credit card style warranty card showing details of the client, (AD ref) and the model and serial number data.

But the most important thing in the box was the watch itself...!


The case...

Diameter: 39 mm
Material: 904L steel
Bezel: fixed, smooth
Winding crown: Twinlock
Crystal: sapphire
Waterproof: 100 m (330 ft)




The style of the Explorer 1016 remains firmly entrenched in the lines and significant proportions of the watch, but have been scaled up slightly to provide the larger diameter. The sides and bezel are polished to a mirror finish and the tops of the lugs are brushed to provide a pleasing contrast.








The twinlock crown is just about big enough for my taste, it screws in and out with two full turns and, (possibly not by design!) the Rolex crown aligns perfectly when fully tightened.

The case back in true Explorer style is plain and unadorned by text or imagery and fits in cleanly to the case.





The crystal is Sapphire and sits proud of the bezel by a few millimetres. The case is rated to 100m water resistance, plenty for my desk diving, (or should that be desk exploring?) needs.

The lug width remains at the original 20mm.

I suspect that many will have differing opinions on how Rolex have gone about upscaling the case from 36mm to 39mm, but to my eye the results are perfect, retaining the essential look of the Explorer, but in a case diameter more suited to modern tastes. What is perhaps more noteworthy is that Rolex stayed at 39mm and resisted the potential temptation to go larger. It is, of course all subjective, but at 39mm I consider the watch maintains the true Explorer ‘feel’ whilst being more suitable and appropriate to modern desirability.

Cont/

[AIDM]

The dial...

Hour markers: Applied white gold, surrounds luminescent Chromalight
Hands: Mercedes Style, luminescent Chromalight





The dial is not in fact black, but a dark matte grey that is pretty hard to pick up well in photos. The ‘Explorer’ text has been moved from above the centre to below, now located immediately above the ‘Superlative Chronometer’ and ‘Officially Certified’ text, to my mind this is better balanced on the larger dial than would be if Rolex had maintained the original 36mm dial layout.

The Quarter Arabic layout is retained, essential really to the Explorer model, the 3, 6 & 9 hour markers are unlumed, solid white gold - another thing that attracts cristism from some, although the way they catch and reflect the light in normal wear far outweighs the usefulness that lume would bring in my opinion.





The remaining hours are marked with applied baton style markers of white gold in-filled with a ‘Chromalight’ lume that gives off a strong, long lasting blue glow. Again, a nice touch and further differentiates the 214270 from other models.





The RBR, ‘ROLEXROLEXROLEX’ rehaut is much more subtle in real life than it appears in macro photos and I can happily report that, for the 214270, it is pretty much unnoticeable in the wearing.

Overall, the dial sticks firmly to the Explorer tradition, with a few modern twists and works incredibly successfully. I’m not sure what my opinion would be if Rolex had chosen to ‘max out’ the dial, (and hands) as with the latest Sub and Explorer II models, but personally I’m glad they chose not to.

On then to the hands... Without doubt the biggest bone of contention amongst the nay-sayers for the 39mm Explorer is the perceived issue with the hand length. I say perceived, because whilst I fully accept the premise that the hands could have been a little longer, I can honestly state that on the wrist the hands are fine. Even though I am fully aware of the frequently scathing comments regarding the hands, not once have I looked at the watch and noticed it.

Everyone will have their own opinion on this, but to anyone wavering due to what they are reading I would only say, ‘get to an AD and have a look yourself’ it’s either going to be an issue for you or it’s not.


The bracelet...

Material: 904L steel
Type: Oyster
Clasp: Oysterlock with Easylink comfort extension link

In the traditional Oyster style and with solid end links, polished sides and screwed pins the bracelet is one area of the 214270 Explorer upgrade that I don’t think anyone can take issue with.

The bracelet has lost of all the slightly cheap ‘rattle’ of the older style, hollow end link version, (not that I had a problem with that myself) and the clasp is an area of massive improvement.








It is of a very solid construction and opens and closes with a very satisfying ‘click’. The fliplock has a raised Rolex ‘crown’ emblem and a raised centre section that all add to give a general impression of quality and substance. I was initially worried that this might snag on my shift cuffs or other clothing, but so far so good. The clasp fits well against the wrist making the bracelet very comfortable to wear.





The clasp is not the full ‘Glidelock’ model, but rather has an ‘Easylink Extension’ hidden within that allows a half link extension of c5mm to be released without the removal of the watch from the wrist.

This can be deployed by slightly lifting the back end of the clasp as shown below, allowing the link to become ‘unclipped’ and extended. I have found the easylink manages the swell of my wrist between 7.5” and 7.75” with ease.





Overall, a triumph in comparison with the older version and a timely upgrade from Rolex who had certainly fallen behind the likes of Omega etc in this area.


The movement...

Calibre: 3132
Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
Oscillator: frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour)
Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil
Paraflex shock absorbers
Precision: COSC-certified chronometer
Power reserve: ~48 hours

I don’t pretend to have any kind of knowledge when it comes to movements and the parts therein, but the above specifications were lifted from the web and plenty has been written about the Rolex calibres elsewhere. Mine runs well, and keeps time well within COSC specification, so I’ll leave it at that!


Final thoughts...

Personally, I am very pleased with the 214270, (in case you couldn’t tell). I have deliberately not ‘scored’ my review as I find this a little intangible unless it’s in direct comparison with something else. All reviews are by their very nature subjective on the part of the reviewer and I have also therefore refrained from trying to be objective. I like this watch, very much – and I hope that comes across in the text above.

If anything my intention was to provide some additional information and a couple of personal opinions on various, (and contentious) aspects of the watch that could be useful to anyone else considering a purchase.

I understand the emotion, comparison and analysis that will inevitably occur when Rolex issue updates a watch with such holological relevance and history as the Explorer. But times move on and the vintage models are there for those that prefer them. The 214270 feels great on the wrist, the size is perfect and the feeling I get from wearing it and enjoying it is up there with any watch I have ever owned. Isn’t that feeling why all we watch nuts spend silly money on watches?

It was quite a risk for me, something of a serial flipper, to buy a brand new watch but the Explorer has exceeded my expectations in all respects – I hope that it will be one of my core collection for many years to come.

There are loads more photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rabc3/s...7632054580325/ if you would like to see them!

.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...............................

(Note: I have gleaned most of the history from the Martin Skeet and Nick Ural book ‘Vintage Rolex Sports Models – A complete visual reference & unauthorised history’ and from various places around the net. If those more knowledgeable than I spot any glaring errors in the above, please drop me a PM and I’ll correct as necessary. All photos and opinions are my own.)

[minkle]

Very, very good review.

Im sure it will be useful for somebody in the future!

[phil h]

Thanks, I enjoyed reason your review. I like the Beadle and agree with your comments on the previous version.

[den77]

Thanks for taking the time to write it and sharing your thoughts on the watch. I am tempted by this model more than any other Rolex, apart possibly from the Yachtmaster.

Best

Den 77

[AIDM]

Thanks all, especially Den who was an essential part of the cash raising exercise!

Cheers,

Rob

[wildheart]

Excellent review, really enjoyed it

[Richard.]

Great review Rob.

[dkpw]

The quality of the review matches the quality of the watch. Congratulations on both achievements!

[c.k.]

Really professional review. Thanks for that.

[Tokyo Tokei]

That was great !

It's a really nice watch. Feels and looks very impressive when you try it on, without being shouty or too obvious. I was surprised how much I liked it when I actually tried it. No issue with the hands for me. One of the best of the newer Rolex models.

Paul

[Karolewskiej]

Perfect watch. Regarding your review, I love to ready something like this. Pro job.

[kdes24uk]

Excellent thanks for the time and effort you put into this.

[golfg60]

Great review mate :-)

[Dave O'Sullivan]

Brilliant review, thanks for posting.

[crazyhaggid]

nice review and lovely watch

[junfan]

Great review, thanks

Just added the Explorer 214270 to my 2013 list!

[olivier24]

very nice watch. thks.

[Barney12]

Great review and great pics. Thanks for sharing.

[Auto]

A really nice clean watch, beautiful!

Thanks for the review.

[Horologos]

Brilliant review, I own an Explorer 1016 model and today I tried on a new 39mm version.
I walked away and now find this. SHIT MISTAKE I should have bought it.
Any way I may need to go back tomorrow, I can't really thank you as it will cost me a packet.

[cdmed]

thanks for that, very interesting read. would be good if there were more of these, I'm sure there's a vast range of watches owned on this forum, could be quite a useful resource if other people did some

[AIDM]

Cheers for all the comments chaps...

Brilliant review, I own an Explorer 1016 model and today I tried on a new 39mm version.
I walked away and now find this. SHIT MISTAKE I should have bought it.
Any way I may need to go back tomorrow, I can't really thank you as it will cost me a packet.

Did you buy it?!

thanks for that, very interesting read. would be good if there were more of these, I'm sure there's a vast range of watches owned on this forum, could be quite a useful resource if other people did some

Cdmed - there are eight pages of reviews in this sub-forum, are you sure you have your settings right?

Rob

[_jonte]

Great review, excellent photos! :-)

[100thmonkey]

One of the most comprehensive reviews written on here and the web thank you I know it takes alot of time and effort

[John Wall]

Great review, Thank you.

[oymd]

Excellent review...thanks...

What impressed me most is your photography skills...!!

Can you give some insight on the equipment you used and lighting?

Many thanks

[CliveG]

thanks for the review and pics - both very enjoyable
cheers

[Tomaitch]

Great review , very informative!

[AIDM]

Cheers all - a couple of months in now and the Explorer is still hogging wrist time to the detriment of everything else!

Picked up a few marks now, especially to the polished bezel, but in true Explorer style it wears them well!

Excellent review...thanks...

What impressed me most is your photography skills...!!

Can you give some insight on the equipment you used and lighting?

Many thanks

Nothing special, cheapy ebay light tent, anglepoise lamp and my trusty Canon G10, but thanks!


Rob

[festa uk]

Great review.

[Carl]

One of the best watch reviews I have read in a long time.

Just to let you know, this is my first post. I had never been on this forum before, and I arrived here by searching for pics of the Explorer 214270. In your honour, I decided to join this forum, one of the reasons being to thank you for your excellent thread.

The Explorer is gorgeous. I have the previous version, a 114270, and I love it. Occasionally, I want something a bit different and a bit bigger, and have recently been considering the Sub No Date. However, the new Explorer intriques me. I especially love the all white gold 3,6,9 arabics. It is reminiscent of the Explorer I "Blackout", and I love how the arabics change in appearance ( or disappearance, as the case may be ) in various lights. It also has a matt dial, instead of the polished dial, plus the updated bracelet and movement enhancements.

Anyway, this we all know already. Love your photography as well.

I would love to have both versions of this beautiful, inconic watch. I think that my 36mm Explorer is slightly dressier, and the 39mm version a bit sportier. My next step is to try the 39mm version on my wrist. Looking forward to the new adventure.

Thanks again!

Cheers
Carl

[spareparts]

Wonderful review, many thanks.

[AIDM]

...

The Explorer is gorgeous. I have the previous version, a 114270, and I love it. Occasionally, I want something a bit different and a bit bigger, and have recently been considering the Sub No Date. However, the new Explorer intriques me. I especially love the all white gold 3,6,9 arabics. It is reminiscent of the Explorer I "Blackout", and I love how the arabics change in appearance ( or disappearance, as the case may be ) in various lights. It also has a matt dial, instead of the polished dial, plus the updated bracelet and movement enhancements.

...

I would love to have both versions of this beautiful, inconic watch. I think that my 36mm Explorer is slightly dressier, and the 39mm version a bit sportier. My next step is to try the 39mm version on my wrist. Looking forward to the new adventure.

Thanks Carl and welcome to the forum!

The 214270 is a great watch, it wears considerably bigger than the 36mm! In the time since purchase I have worn it a LOT and it is prone to picking up a few scratches here and there, particularly on the polished case sides and the bezel. But with an Explorer these don't necessarily detract, but enhance!

See you around the place!

Regards,

Rob

[Lammylee]

Now another watch that I need! I had always thought that the previous Explorer was the perfect balance of sporty elegance, although its small size put me off. Great review and despite previously selling my Sub and vowing to never get another Rolex, this watch might change my mind!

[Michael_Mcr]

Very good review.

The Rolex Explorer 1 is fascinating me at the moment. Am fairly new to the whole watch thing and dont have a colection of expensive pieces, just a small collection of cheap but interesting_to_me stuff :)

However i have been looking at more expensive watches recently in view of buying myself a decent but everyday watch and whilst i have never really had a thing for Rolex, i do find myself looking at the Explorer 1 and thinking how nice it is. Apart from the Explorer 1 and Sub, i think most other Rolex are a bit blingy and gaudy tbh, but i really do like this one - it really is a classic and subtle look.

[Chris W]

Great review, and a great looking watch.
Have a hankering for an explorer!

What is the overall lug-lug length on the 39mm?

[lionheart]

Incredible review. That really is an all time classic - great proportions and real all rounder...

[GIB984]

Very well constructed and comprehensive review Rob - top marks!

[Buntyhayes]

excellent review - love the blue lume!

[ingenioren]

Wow, that was very comprehensive and great to read - well done !!

Sad thing is, those sudden 'cravings' that you now have created - it is indeed a lovely watch
Cheers, Peter

[budfox88]

Excellent review and photos - I was in an AD last week and managed to see and try one of these first hand - it has now gone onto my "wishlist". i was being shown a black Milgauss at 30% off list price, and making the comparison with the Explorer....ideally I'd be able to buy both, but in the end I bought none!

[Airwave]

very well written and thoughtful review.
working in hot places I appreciate your acknowledgment of "wrist swell" which is a fact of life when working in cold offices in hot countries.
nicely done sir !

[therooster]

Nice review. The local jewellers have a pre-owned piece in at the moment and am going to take a look at lunchtime, alongside an Aqua Terra.

[kazerone]

I don't think I should thank you for this review ; now because of it, the urge to getting one is growing stronger and stronger by the minute
Beautiful watch !

[kdes24uk]

Great review. I was thinking if getting one and this just tipped me over the edge and I DID buy one. Superb watch.

Kev

[Charles]

An Exp.1 is high on the WTB-list! :)

[spiceballs]

nice review and great pix - thx

[kazerone]

This is annoying, I just got a 114270, and now this is making me wonder if I should not revise my choice
I should not thank you for that, but great review!

[Charles]

Excellent review!