Reply With QuoteI think that all the Seiko GMTs are true (my kinetic one was), so I would look at the various Spring Drive models. I live the look of the one with the sapphire bezel.
Hi folks. I need a good GMT watch. I travel a lot, so it needs to be a travellers' GMT, ie. the local hour hand moves in steps, while the 24 hour hand remains the home time. This is the way that a Rolex GMT II or Seamaster GMT works. I'm not interested in office GMTs, which is a shame, as it rules out a load of brands.
It needs to look good on a bracelet, and I'm not scared to big watches, just not stupid big.
What have I tried?
Current GMT-IIc.
I've had one, and it didn't stick. It's also far too close to my Seadweller.
Would love another XV UTC on a bracelet, but they seem rare. Would like another, if anyone sees one about? (Sorry, no Spitfires.)
I wouldn't mind a CA M1, as it does the whole hour step thing, but I'm nearly 40 now, and it feels a little Walter Mitty for me. Still, if one came along on a bracelet... Are there any other watches with the same movement that I should look at? Our host's PRS17c, I know. Older Breitlings?
At the moment, I'm looking really closely at the Panerai 352. No GMT hand, but that's OK, as it steps the hour hand, and that's close enough for me. I'd have to sell my 219, as I can only justify one Panerai, but I think it would be worth it. It would let me use my collection of straps, too!
So, what am I missing? What have I overlooked?
I think that all the Seiko GMTs are true (my kinetic one was), so I would look at the various Spring Drive models. I live the look of the one with the sapphire bezel.
Double post - oops
The Breitling M1 has the ETA 251.232 HEQ movement; essentially the same movement, without the HEQ module, as the ETA 251.262 which is also found in the excellent Revue Thommen Airspeed Quartz Chrono. I used one of those for travel for many years, and found it perfect - chronograph was handy for timing flights, etc, with the quick-set hour hands making resetting the time on changing time zones, a breeze.
I sold mine a few years ago to fund a Lemania 5100 auto chrono, but missed it so bought another last year. In the end, the appeal of my Fortis LE was too strong and I sold it to fund an Omega Quartz 2264, which also has the quick-set hour hand, and which has been excellent for the (albeit limited) international travel I've done in the last few months. It also has fantastic lume, so when you wake in a strange room at 3am, you'll be able to read the time at a glance...
There is also the Fortis Comsonaut GMT, which has the quick-set hour hand, and which I tried, but the date is slaved to the GMT hand at 3. So, when you fly from London - Sydney and you reset the permanent hour hand to local time, on arriving in Sydney at 0600, the date displayed will be London's, ie, yesterday's date, which is confusing... :?
Thanks for the replies - I always miss something out. I had one of these for a few months, and initially it was the best watch in the world, but it just didn't stick, and I'm not sure why! There's certainly nothing wrong with it!
And thanks for the Revue Thommen mention. (Does Tutima make one too?) You highlight the advantages of these movements - they really are very versatile.
Am I really going to have to buy an Avenger Seawolf Chrono?
Oh, and I had one of these too, for a bit, but too small, sadly. Hour hand in steps again!
Glashütte Original Sport Evolution GMT!
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=207235
Simon
+1Originally Posted by gladders
Great looker, great usability of GMT function with hour advance/recess buttons and great bracelet with micro adjustment.
JLC master geographic has the slickest complication for GMT, separate subdial showing the second time zone and another dial with all the cities, just turn the second crown to change the city and the subdial changes to the correct time.
The compressor version is The chunkier, more sporty version and is available on a bracelet as well as leather, think they're around £8k new...
Yes, that GO GMT or the new Explorer II would be good options to try out imo.
It's just a matter of time...
The ultimate GMTs are the Yema Bipole and Seiko LandMaster Sagarmatha.
Neither one packed in when proofing theír pudding.
The Bi-pole is probably a bit too large and - adventurous for the office travelers but the Sagarmatha looks véry slick.
A non-navigational one is the Seiko EPD. Not main stream watch fashion follower which is both a NoNo or a YesYes depending on the wearer.
Thanks for the replies, esp. yours, Happyjack - I didn't realise that the quartz Omega Seamaster had a stepping hour hand. And I thought that all of the 7750 movement chronos (the Fortis is a 7750, isn't it?) that had a GMT function were office GMTs. Interesting.
The Glashutte's pretty, but (and this is my opinion here, not trying to get on peoples' tits!) it's a chronograph case that's been adapted to be a GMT. It may be that I'm doing Glashutte a disservice here, and the case is unique, and has never been used as a chrono. But I look at it and think 'bodge job'. :( Same as the Ebel BTRs which I otherwise like.
And 'cilla - one good suggestion, one bad! I've owned a regular Landmaster previously - the deep burgundy dialled version - and it was great. A little light, and the bracelet (and especially the hollow endlinks) was a bit rattly and thin. Good watch, though - got my PADI certificate wearing it. But I couldn't wear the Yema because I'm not a clown.
Just GMTs or are worldtimers acceptable too? There are many nice watches in that league too - GP, Vulcain, Nomos...
big pic http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4307/sbgm001ea2.jpg
As you liked the spring drive GMT why don't you try one of the other models. Most of the spring drives have the GMT facility more or less as standard. This is the old GS auto GMT. They can still be found on the S/H market. It's as gorgeous as it looks.
An SD GMT
john
"The whole purpose of mechanical watches is to be impertinent." ~ Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet
I have pondered over this without gaining inner understanding. Eric Cantona perhaps?
This Ulysse Nardin is the most practical of any GMT I have had.
Like all Ludwig Oeschlin's work it is pure genius.
There are two buttons which move the hour hand back and forth. The home time is at 9.00. The big date is very readable.
Changing the hour hand with the buttons takes the date with it at Midnight and will also take the date back on the minus button.
Overall it is also one of the best built and finished watches around.
Mine is an early one, as I like the big seconds. Later versions have the small seconds at 6.00
There are various models in SS or gold.
Check out this little baby, it shows the hometime on a date-like wheel:
http://www.ulysse-nardin.ch/en/swiss_wa ... 42_mm.html
Someone who lies about the little things will lie about the big things too.
Linde Werdelin 3-Timer GMT
I know what you like. :D
john
"The whole purpose of mechanical watches is to be impertinent." ~ Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet
You are forcing me out of my hiatus with all this GMT talk!
It's been the B1 SQ lately for me.. Although I would love a UN GMT.
Btw, I will be unloading a bunch of watches soon - including a Sagarmatha and SMP GMT ;)
PAGING MR S.L!!
You need the Chopard he has, it's the balls of a GMT!
Sinn 857 UTC
My ultimate business travel GMT is the Explorer II, both sporty and stylish at the same time so suitable for every occasion.
As a couple of people have said: Ulysse-Nardin.
My favourite GMT watches (with the possible exception of the SBGE001 - which you have tried and not liked).
If I had the money...
Cheers,
This is lovely! No silly power reserve and the date in the correct place. How big is it? Does anyone here own one? I'd prefer the black rotating bezel from the current GMT but could happily live with this one
"A man of little significance"
Nomos World Timer! :D
Hard to explain how is works in brief, so here is a link!
http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2010/11/14 ... ing-f.html
How about a Glycine Airman. Mine has 3 time zones, it's this one
The red marker is one zone, the outer bezel rotates for the second and the local (original) time is the 3rd :D
Many others in the range that don't have the Chrono if the dial is to fussy
You've looked at the wrong Panerai!
I have a 320 which is a fabulous travelling GMT watch. 12 hr GMT hand, independent hour hand which moves in one hour increments and, when you get home, the GMT hand lies hidden behind the normal hour hand!
I have no pictures showing my GMT hand ( you can find them all over the web ) but here is mine at home, GMT hand hidden
Mike
Lots of nice suggestions, thank you.
- GS. I do like the non-bezel version, esp. as it lacks the power resrerve. But I'm not sure how I'll survive without lume. :shock:
- Linde Werdelin? Would need to handle one in the metal. Is it available on a bracelet?
- UN. Hmm. I like them, but I can't love them. Not sure about romans on a watch, and they all seem to be leather, rather than bracelet.
- The Panerai is cute, but I like bracelets, and in steel, it would be a little much. (nice pics, though!)
- The Rolexes, of course, are lovely, but GMTs are office, not traveller. GMT II is fine, but still a little close to my Seadweller. And the new Explorer II? Lots of white on the dial, there!
Keep 'em coming, please!
Not everyone's taste. I love it. Here is an unusual GMT with an alarm function by Dubey and Schaldenbrand.
It's an office GMT so doesn't quite make the cut here I'm afraid.
Have always wanted one, but they are a very rare bird :cry:
Comes in Black too.
The 2535 Omega SMP is lovely and imo the nicest of the Bond bracelet watches.
It's just a matter of time...
The PAM 98, or similar 184 (without alarm):
This one was sold on the SC last Saturday. Scooped up within hours... not by me, though... Imho, the best looking watch I've seen in ages! Here's the original sales post. Check the asking price... http://www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=219603. Finding this watch will be hard: Seiko didn't sell this watch in our parts of the wood...
Menno
John has posted it, but I think this white version is better:
I will be in Tokyo next week and I am considering buying it :? .
Seiko Quartz Alpinist GMT. This one has the step hour hand that you are looking for as well.
Oris TT1 Worldtimer - same concept as the UN (my fave GMT I reckon) but a hell of a lot cheaper. 42mm case, left pusher moves the hour hand back, right pusher moves it forward, date is synchronised with the hour hand, sub dial shows home time with two hands and has a white/navy day/night indicator. I love mine :)
Jura carry it. I tried it on three weeks ago when I was in London 8)This one was sold on the SC last Saturday. Scooped up within hours... not by me, though... Imho, the best looking watch I've seen in ages! Here's the original sales post. Check the asking price... http://www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=219603. Finding this watch will be hard: Seiko didn't sell this watch in our parts of the wood...
Menno
has this been mentioned yet?
that or a sky dweller :wink:
As the proud owner of one of your previous GMT's I felt I should assist with your latest hunt :D
Not one I've owned, but always admired the styling of these...(pic shamlessly lifted from the web)
I cant comment on the movement either (office or true GMT setting) but I know there is at least 1 of these knocking around the forum (the flying banana has one I think) so maybe they will be along soon :)
Bell & Ross BR01-93 GMT
How about a Glycine Airman Base 22 in "purist" version or GA-version?
http://www.glycine-watch.ch/e/collectio ... lay=10002Z
Great looks and genuine heritage!
Regards,
Erik
Nope, all available on bracelet and some without Romans too...
I know it's gold but they do them in other metals too, OK?
(it was the first photo I could find).
Cheers,
The new Bremont GMT (you can read the rest here, straight off the press)
http://www.europastar.com/magazine/high ... world.html
john
"The whole purpose of mechanical watches is to be impertinent." ~ Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet
Porsche GMT
john
"The whole purpose of mechanical watches is to be impertinent." ~ Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet
Could be viewed as High End, depending on your budget :mrgreen:
On a more serious note, I fancy one of these which was recently released:
BTW, lovin' the UNs on this topic... Must start saving now!
A
Performance wise it sure has the legs of most watches suggested. Regardless of budget.
java - had my hands on one of those, and I like D&S watches. But it's an office GMT, isn't it?
S.L. - I'm actually glad that's an office GMT! It's a lovely watch, and that would have been an expensive item on my list had it been a traveller's GMT!
This thread is actually reminding me how many GMTs I've had through my hands!
Omegamanic - yup, had one of those! Not sue why it didn't quite work for me - certainly not the watch! Must be something about me!
Stanford - I think that's the same movement as the D&S already posted? Anyway, Radiomirs, handsome as they are, get on my nerves for another reason - screw down crowns on a hand wound watch! (Although that Rad might be auto...)
thieuster - again with the GS! Lovely, but I'm also a lume queen.
dowsing - Alpinist. I like your thinking, have owned one. LIttle small, little light (at least, in titanium!)
Seb d - I like the Oris treatment of GMT - simple, easy to use, and different. Still not convinced about the extra pushers on the case, but it refreshing.
rasputin10 - yes, it's been mentioned. Read the thread. Bodged chrono case. And the Skydweller might be a little out of my range! Fortunately!
learningtofly - JLC is a good possibility, actually. Like the in-house, most of them tend to be traveller's GMTs. There's a Navy Seals one in 44mm which I like, and would consider if I were actually a Navy Seal. :( Will have another look at their range.
seikoking - thanks for the suggestion. That ML is a little dressy for me, but it's handsome, and again, different.
neebsta - haven't looked it up, but I'd put money on that B&R being an office GMT.
Oh, had the Speedbird III GMT been a traveller's GMT, then this thread wouldn't exist!
abraxas - I like Bremonts, as a rule, John, but that's 7750, so again, I'll put money on it being an office watch. Will have a look, though. No bracelet? Like the Porsche - love the empty space between the strap and the case! :drunken:
Richard. - I've weaned myself off the idea of a PP. The flat crystal, the rubber strap, the fact that it doesn't feel like a 10k (or whatever!) watch. (Edit - 5164A-001 - Stainless Steel - Men Aquanaut US$36,400 US list. Holy Crap. I know I said high end. Maybe I should have modified that somewhat...
AlistairD - I don't mind g-shocks, and I've got an atomic one in the post somewhere on its way out here to Qatar. But I wouldn't chose it as my avatar for a business trip of holiday.
Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm off to look at JLC watches online, but please keep them coming!
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