No nipped tubes with tubeless ...
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Handbuilts. Quality hubs (DT Hope etc) and decent rims. Listen to your wheelbuilders advice, there a few less than stellar rim/hubs out there (like the new mavic open pro made of cheese and a very thin brake track)
I use a chap local to me who all my riding mates use called arkane wheelworks, he uses hubs a step up from bitex/novatec as well as the usual king, DT, Hope etc. Built a really nice set of light bicycle rims on his hubs that work out a bit cheaper than hunt and better hubs.
Avoid anything that needs special spokes or fancy nipples that are hard to get hold of and stupidly expensive.
As for comfort I would maybe steer clear of anything really deep and carbon.
Jury is out on tubless. One of the lads I ride with turned up covered in sealant. He picked up a sidewall cut and the tyre sprayed him. He couldnt get the valve out and had to phone home for assistance. I know where I am with a tube, in fact I repaired one just last week !!!
Steve
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9c815a4942.jpg
Spot of gravelling today
Agreed. Switched 5 years ago and have no complaints.
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Not a gravel bike, but I've had this one nearly five years, it's been a pleasure to ride:
http://bikediary.uk/images/210228bike01.jpg
Not that keen on the SRAM gears actually, I'd have had something else if I'd known what they were like. They work well enough, but I don't like the high tension / clacky feel of the shifters.
Apologies to all the fit cyclists, but I am looking for advice on a potential E-bike purchase.
I have a road bike, but finding 35mile (fairly hilly) round trip commute a little too much on my road bike and considering an E-bike through cyclescheme.
Having done my preliminary research I am most attracted to the modmo Saigon+, however don’t think I’ll be able to get this through cyclescheme as they aren’t registered and charge in Euros. My concerns are the “start up” nature of MODMO and the the CVT gearing.
Ideally I’d like an upright riding position with a belt driven bike, with low maintenance gearing ?alfine, integrated lights and decent capacity battery as I’m 105kg and on occasion may do longer rides.
Any other suggestions?
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Vanmoof belt drive here
https://www.vanmoof.com/en-GB
Steve
Mrs T-7 rode to Bristol on the Bath-Bristol cycle path today & noticed an oncoming cyclist who's cycling style was different to anybody she had ever seen before. She said that his head looked like it was on rails. It was Bradley Wiggins.
35 hilly miles a day is quite a lot on top of a day’s work, even more so if the weather is grim!
A few things I’d consider if I was choosing again:
- What is the parking situation at work, secure? Quite a few reports of e-bikes and e-cargo bikes getting stolen.
- Do you need to carry the bike up stairs at any stage? E-bikes can be hefty especially with a bit of luggage on.
- Would a folding e-bike be useful?
The UK’s 15.4 mph cut-off point will probably annoy you from time to time. But it might not be an issue for you with the hills - on the flat I often wish it was just a bit higher, even 21mph would do.
The belt drive requirement limits the options somewhat. I hear that limits have been lifted on Cyclescheme - would it stretch to this? :-)
https://www.r-m.de/en-gb/bikes/superdelite/
I quite like this:
https://www.lekkerbikes.com/product/...iolo-ct-ebike/
Trek Allant:
https://www.trekbikes.com/internatio...9561_f208c0b3d
So as allways sound advice from the forum has resulted in a new wheelset from Borg and following derision on my “ jury’s out “ for tubeless , plus the confidence expressed here, I have gone for tubless too.
My question now is what do folk carry for puncture repair whilst out and about. I carry a stop n go on the motorcycle eg rats tails plugs a reamer and a portable compressor.
Borg supply a pack of worms/ rats tails, but will a conventional frame mounted mini pump reinflate the tyre. I have read contradictory views on C02 compatibility and lastly “ no point is carrying a spare tube as you will never get the tubeless valve core out”
Confused , and......the wheels haven’t even arrived yet.
Steve
If you've got a puncture that the sealant won't seal then sometimes an anchovy (one of those tubeless repair plug things) will and you should be able to reinflate with a normal pump - you only really need a compressor or suchlike to seat the tire to begin with. Once it's on you can add sealant through the valve. Just don't try and take the tyre off and break the seal.
If the puncture can't be fixed with sealant or a plug then you should just be able to stick a new tube in until you get home. Take the tyre off (is it often a bit of a b1tch to remove), then take the whole tubeless valve out and replace with a tube. Unless I'm missing something? Most of my experience has been with running tubeless on a mountain bike. It can be a bit messy if you've got a load of sealant sloshing about but it'll get you home.
Thanks for that, I guess as with most things , once I have a puncture that doesnt seal, I will learn and adapt.
Steve
What sort of handlebars do you have - if they can accomodate it get one of these https://www.rutlandcycling.com/acces...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
p.s other companies sell similar bits of kit.
Spare tube, couple of CO2 cartridges and inflator and tyre levers. Not sure why you wouldn't be able to remove the valve core, they're only held in by the retaining ring on the outside of the valve. Can fit all of the above easily into an under seat bag. Like has been said it might be a bit messy to fit the tube but it will get you home👍
New max speed for me today😁
https://i.postimg.cc/2jQ64y9d/Screen...211-Strava.jpg
Nice [emoji1303] Very Nice [emoji1317]
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I use these with a CO2 inflator. I also carry a spare tube just in case.
http://www.dynaplug.com/racer.html
Mind a Co2 inflator is to get you home. Always try and deflate and reinflate traditionally when home.
Road biking and tyre width, I keep reading the lean toward wider tyres on modern bikes but can't work out what that actually means? I'm currently running 25mm tyres, but with wide tyres are we talking 28mm, 30mm, more? At what point do you lose any benefit the wider you go?
I would suggest 28 mm is probably the widest you would go on a a road bike. However rim design can make a difference. The current move towards deeper wider internal rims mean for example a 25 will present to the road as a 28mm.
I run 28 mm Contis on my gravel bike GP 4 seasons and 25 mm Contis GP5000’s on my road bike. I dont feel the wider tyres roll faster.
Just my views though.
Thanks both. :encouragement:
Just to add to what Kerry said, prior to running 28’s on my gravel bike , it came with 35 mm tyres. When I changed from 35 to 28 I noticed the difference both in rolling resistance and comfort. The 35’s were Clement Explor’s which have nobble on the side walls but a semi continuous middle rib.
The 28’s were faster but the shock absorbing effect of 35’s on our pot holed roads was sorely missed ( literally on my backside):)
Steve
Nice to see such an active cycling thread on here. I've managed to get a Brompton for delivery this week or next so I'm looking forward to contributing a bit. My plan is primarily to make my commute faster a little more fun.
Bromptons are like old land rovers, fundamentally flawed and compromised but great at the same time, mine has been a lifesaver in lockdown going between mine and my partners flat. terrible brakes and sometimes had a bit of a tank slapper speed wobble but i’ll never get rid of mine.
does make me appreciate jumping on the road bike which is like a rocket in comparison.
With no holidays this year by the looks the boss has given me the green light to start looking for a couple of new bikes
Looking like I could land her a Di2 Liv Envie with SLR’s but boy I don’t know where to start. Bumping between Cevelo, SWorks, Pinarello or another Propel.
This is current
Pitch
https://i.ibb.co/5Ws06VH/270978-D7-7...0811544-E8.jpg
Anything specific you are after from your new bike? Hard to suggest anything otherwise.
Living in Suffolk big climbs are not a plenty and I really like the aero look, so aero is a big box ticker.
I like the look of the Specialized and S Works Venge there are a couple of nice ones on EBay £2,500 and £3,000.
My Propel has 105, would Ultegra be a nice step up or in for a penny and go Di2.
Cervelo and Pinarello both offer aero but seem to be quite a bit more than Specialized and Giant.
Any guidance would be much appreciated
Pitch
Up till now my rides have been up to 50 miles, maybe a few more this year but no touring as such. I’m a runner, so trainers over tyres everyday but I am really enjoying cycling, it’s becoming more than just a cross training tool.
So am I right to be focused on aeros. Questions questions.....
Cheers chaps
Pitch
Consider endurance type bicycles...Titanium is considered comfortable, but a wee bit expensive.. Giant Defy is excellent.
Canyon Aeroad. Best road bike I've ever ridden. Current British Cycling National Masters Road Race Champion & Criterium Champion on it. The Enve 7.8's make a lot of difference though. Almost feels like cheating.
https://i.imgur.com/fIVBdLNh.jpg
I would argue that (presumably) a summer bike in Suffolk would be exactly the sort of scenario where discs are absolutely not needed. But getting into this becomes pretty much a religious argument these days, and in any case I believe it's hard to find models from the brands you mention without discs. So you're probably stuck unless you go custom carbon. There are some wonderful small makers if you are interested but you would have to know what you want from a frame unless you can get to one of the exotic bike shops that can get you fitted up.
At the prices you are likely to be paying I think I'd be wanting to test ride as many options as possible or, at the very least, if your Propel fits you well, go for a frame that has similar stack and reach. An endurance frame that doesn't fit you will be more uncomfortable than an aero frame that does.
I can't comment on electronic gears as I've never tried them but if you can afford them and can bear paying through the nose if you fall off and break the rear mech, then why not?
Shoot me down all day but Shimano like other cycle brands use trickle down development. So this years Dura Race is next years Ultegra and then 105. Di2 and Sram Force E tap break that chain by being one on their own. If you have the permission and the opportunity electronic shifting would be my choice all day long.
Mechanical or electric, both do the job and both have advantages and disadvantages
Disc or rim, again both stop the bike and have pros and cons
Wider tyres are comfy and unless seconds count a good option
Bottom line is just ride, I’m as happy on a mechanical gravel as I am on a electric S-Works as I am on an old MTb or Ebike because once you ignore the hype, turn your legs and enjoy the ride