Loctite

Any recommendations for what type of loctite to use for bracelet screws. There appears to be many different types of the stuff. Also, is it best to put the loctite on the pin hole or on the screw itself? Advice would be most welcome. Thanks.

I can’t remember the number. It might be 222? From what I remember don’t put it on the end of the screw and then push the screw through all the holes in the links as the locktite will gather on them causing the bracelet to be less supple.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nail varnish works well too; I find on the threads is less messy.

Thanks for the info. I'll order some up. Cheers.

I use Loctite 243 and have for years with no failures yet. It’s medium strength so can be undone when needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GraniteQuarry

Nail varnish works well too; I find on the threads is less messy.

---

Do you mean on the female threads or on the threads of the actual screw?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the 222 after a near miss . . .


https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-X94Z9Zc-L.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stonewood

Do you mean on the female threads or on the threads of the actual screw?

---

Threads on the screw or screw bar; never had one come loose yet.

Well, I've ordered some 222. If it's no good then the spanking sessions will begin! :)
Thanks for the advice guys.

I used the blue on my Randolphs and other small screw.



https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/...adlockers.html

Sinn supply this - it’s blue!
It’s classed as medium strength. Made by weiconlock

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f42a657f13.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by notenoughwrists

Sinn supply this - it’s blue!
It’s classed as medium strength. Made by weiconlock

---

Is Locktite 222 (or the Sinn equal?) permanent? Or does it just make it harder for unintentional loosening?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by davidzet

Is Locktite 222 (or the Sinn equal?) permanent? Or does it just make it harder for unintentional loosening?

---

Just harder - still remain easy enough to remove with a screwdriver but fixed enough not to loosen under wear or vibration


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still continue to recommend applying heat to screws that have been treated with threadlock. I learned this lesson the hard way, having paid around £40 to buy the tool for removing Omega SMP helium valve bodies I snapped the bloody thing by applying too much force. Application of heat is essential to remove these, the threadlock is strong but softens with heat. Same applies to some bracelet screws, with experience you can tell when they’re tight due to threadlock when the screw doesn’t yield to sensible pressure. I used to use the gas hob in my kitchen, a couple of seconds in the tip of a flame does the trick, quicker than getting the microburner out of its box. A cig lighter would do the trick nicely too.

The tip of a soldering iron is much better for direct control on a small point.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JasonM

The tip of a soldering iron is much better for direct control on a small point.

---

True! I had to resort to the soldering iron to separate the pipe of a centre seconds chronograph hand from the chronograph runner, the hand had been superglued. Couldn’t get the chrono runner out because the broken pipe was stopping it, couldn’t risk a naked flame so close to the movement.......soldering iron did the trick but it was bloody tricky.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by notenoughwrists

Just harder - still remain easy enough to remove with a screwdriver but fixed enough not to loosen under wear or vibration

---

Thanks!!

Good 'tip' from Jason.