ADVICE WANTED: Installing Ring Video Doorbell Pro

Any advice welcomed.

I bought a Ring Video Doorbell Pro, because the doorbell is slim and fits neatly on the door frame, uses existing hidden wires and is a doddle to install!

The transformer for the existing doorbell is located in the breaker panel and will be replaced by the higher V Ring transformer.

When the transformer is located in the breaker panel, the Ring installation instructions are expecting to see wires connected to four terminals in the existing chime: 0, 1, 2, 3. The installation instructions go on to indicate that the existing wires to 0 and 3 will be connected to the Ring Doorbell Bypass Kit.

https://i.imgur.com/gryCULHl.png

However, my existing chime doesn't have wires connected to 1 and 2.

My questions are: What am I to make of this? Am I scuppered? 1 and 2 in existing chime buried elsewhere in the wall or floor?

I won't be doing this myself and have sent an email to Ring. Thought I might also draw on the vast accumulated knowledge of the forum membership.

https://i.imgur.com/zc9xgTMl.jpg

Regards

I'm guessing your current bell is wired like this....

https://i.imgur.com/oUs3v4R.jpg

So doubt there's any 'hidden wires anywhere.

Hopefully you can work out a similar arrangement from your Ring bell push from the above.

Thanks, yes that was what I was thinking. Hopefully Ring or an electrician will advise me what it means for the Ring installation.


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Can’t quite make it out in the picture but are there 2 wires twisted together in your picture?

I installed a Ring Pro a few weeks ago and took out my existing doorbell completely, so in essence ran the wires from the Ring power fuse box thingy straight to the Ring Pro. So in my case the 2 wires from the PSU block I joined to the 2 wires coming from the old external pusher/switch and never used the bypass box.

You then use the Ring Sounder for when the button on the Pro is pushed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IAmATeaf

Can’t quite make it out in the picture but are there 2 wires twisted together in your picture?
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Multicoloured, multicore comms cable has been used. A blue wire goes in to 0 and blue and white striped wire to the other terminal. The rest of the multicoloured spaghetti isn’t used.


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Have you looked at the door push outside to see what wires are there. Can’t quite understand how it’s currently wired.

It might be that the existing power wires go direct to the door push before being fed through the switch and back to the bell unit? But I’m guessing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IAmATeaf

I installed a Ring Pro a few weeks ago and took out my existing doorbell completely, so in essence ran the wires from the Ring power fuse box thingy straight to the Ring Pro. So in my case the 2 wires from the PSU block I joined to the 2 wires coming from the old external pusher/switch and never used the bypass box.

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Did exactly the same myself. When I wired up the Ring to the existing chime will all appropriate connections it buzzed all the time and the magic Ring box felt way too hot for comfort.

Use the plug in sounder, hours of fun to be had mucking about with different chimes, also line it up with Alexa or Google Home kit.


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Thanks for your comments.

To conclude:

1. I didn't fit it, too cowardly to enter the world of the breaker panel.
2. An electrician did visit, but he was the third one who came around and only one who knew what to do. Baffling. As Peter pointed out, it's just a simple switch cricuit.
3. The ring volume on the plug-in chime was pathetic, until I figured it was very tightly wrapped in a very thin, almost imperceptible shrink wrap.
4.The lag for notifications to reach iphone or ipad is bad.
5. I still don't know what the 'Bypass Kit' in the old chime does. The old chime has been bypassed, I assume because of the voltage change and the two wires that went in to the chime now go in to the Bypass Kit which sits in the old chime box. I assume it just connects the two wires together to complete the circuit. If yes, what's wrong with twisting the wires together and a bit of tape? Other magic going on in the Bypass Kit, or just a fancy name for a connector?

As you can tell, wires and electricity are not my thing. I'm a whizz with PowerPoint though!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BillyCasper

Thanks for your comments.

To conclude:

1. I didn't fit it, too cowardly to enter the world of the breaker panel.
2. An electrician did visit, but he was the third one who came around and only one who knew what to do. Baffling. As Peter pointed out, it's just a simple switch cricuit.
3. The ring volume on the plug-in chime was pathetic, until I figured it was very tightly wrapped in a very thin, almost imperceptible shrink wrap.
4.The lag for notifications to reach iphone or ipad is bad.
5. I still don't know what the 'Bypass Kit' in the old chime does. The old chime has been bypassed, I assume because of the voltage change and the two wires that went in to the chime now go in to the Bypass Kit which sits in the old chime box. I assume it just connects the two wires together to complete the circuit. If yes, what's wrong with twisting the wires together and a bit of tape? Other magic going on in the Bypass Kit, or just a fancy name for a connector?

As you can tell, wires and electricity are not my thing. I'm a whizz with PowerPoint though!

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I suspect that the Bypass Kit provides a permanent power supply to the Ring Door Push as that is required to continuously power the sensor and camera - we use batteries in ours as a continuous power source. Like yours, there is a significant lag between the bell sounding and and notifications being received on our phones/tablets. I put this down to the distance between the bell push and the router as being significant and with several walls between them - this is shown in the app as the wi-fi signal being 'very poor' at the bell, (something worth checking at your end). I've literally just moved a BT Disk, (wi-fi extender), nearer to the bell push to see if that improves the signal/response time, but not had chance to check it yet.

As I pointed out I never used the bypass unit, just used a 5a connector block to join the necessary wires together.

The delays on ours isn’t that bad but what is not good is that on 2 occasions the button has been pushed but the internal door chime never sounded so we were all none the wiser. Only after seeing a notification did we realise, reviewing the clip, the doorbell can be clearly heard ringing outside but nobody in the house heard the internal chime.

I’ve also got another issue logged with Ring where the live or clip pulses almost like the bell can’t make its mind up as to what to set the light level to. They are supposedly looking into it but so far I’m not that impressed, kids wanted it which is the only reason I got it.

You’ll also need to subscribe as although the bell will continue to work, you can only view live footage at that time, nothing gets saved, not even a few hours worth.

Thanks Gris... and IAmA..

Looks like the Ring Bypass has componets that manages Ring power if the circuit is still wired to the original chime. It's not required if the original chime is disabled as IAma..says. My original Friedland chime has been disabled, but the Bypass has still been installed. Not a problem as far as I can see but perhaps unecessary. I'm wondering if the original Frieland chime could still be used if the Ring Bypass is wired differently, or if this is not possible at all because of incompatability of the voltages of the Ring Transformer and Friedland chime. It's no big deal, but as the Friedland is there, we might as well use it and put the Ring plug-in chime upstairs.

Thanks for the note about the subscription, I think I have a month's trial? I must learn to read the manuals and bits of paper, I never do.

https://i.imgur.com/YPiNpoV.jpg

I don’t think the bypass is that clever. To me it looks like an easy way to bypass the wiring of the existing bell and nothing more. The Pro outputs 24v which would be enough to fry a typical 6v bell.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IAmATeaf

I don’t think the bypass is that clever. To me it looks like an easy way to bypass the wiring of the existing bell and nothing more. The Pro outputs 24v which would be enough to fry a typical 6v bell.

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Ta, I’ll leave as is and be happy that it’s working.


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