One watch hand wind collection; suggestions beyond a Speedmaster

I've previously got down to a two watch collection; a Rolex Explorer and a GMT II and have found during lockdown that I just don't wear them enough to justify automatic movements.

That led me to conclude that with 95% of my current requirement being met with an Apple Watch, a hand winder might be the best long term companion.

I'd like to try out the idea before I consider selling my current pair and wonder what could fit? Steel case, no date and a leather strap rather than a bracelet are the only firm conclusions so far.

As it is being bought as a keeper and, theoretically at least my last watch, I'd prefer to buy new. That is because anticipation of the immediate depreciation has always given me more focus on getting it right. Budget is up to £4000 but I'd hope to get away with half that. Nomos Metro and and the basic hesalite previous generation Speedmaster Pro are early ideas.

I'm under a bit of pressure because of the preference for the last generation Speedmaster, they seem to be getting harder to find new. Any other suggestions for a short list?

Personally I'd say that you cannot get much more ultimate hand winder than the top of Seiko's handwind tree in the sixties: the 44 and 45 series.

https://wornandwound.com/affordable-...90-44ks-rules/

https://adventuresinamateurwatchfett...iko-4502-7001/

Or you could go for the definitive calibre - the 30T2 - in all its glorious incarnations.

https://www.fratellowatches.com/raf-...a-ck2292-30t2/

Although personally I'd be looking for the penultimate version of either the 26x or the 28x as in both cases they benefited from the 'old' Breguet overcoil and the new Glycadur balance, A movement of that quality and simplicity would cost you the price a small house new these days.

Try Nomos.

I have this little beauty........

https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/metr...r-reserve-1101

If it was a one watch why not make it super personal to you and commission a Dornbluth? You'd get the 99.1 in your range with some customizations (eg applied indices, movement engraving etc). Wonderful watches and the customisation is part of the appeal

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Originally Posted by Dave in Wales

Try Nomos.

I have this little beauty........

https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/metr...r-reserve-1101

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Nomos is certainly a leading contender and the Metro is my favourite

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Originally Posted by ryanb741

If it was a one watch why not make it super personal to you and commission a Dornbluth? You'd get the 99.1 in your range with some customizations (eg applied indices, movement engraving etc). Wonderful watches and the customisation is part of the appeal

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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Dornbluth is a interesting, certainly a threat to the Speedmaster at £4000, mention of it also reminded me of the Hanhart chronographs I've long admired and that are easily within budget. Prices are not on the Dornbluth site can the three hand centre seconds be had for around £4000?

Hamilton Intramatic Chrono Hand-wound, £1,800?

https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2...nograph-01.jpg

How about this?

https://www.grand-seiko.com/uk-en/collections/sbgw231g



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Originally Posted by J J Carter

Hamilton Intramatic Chrono Hand-wound, £1,800?

https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2...nograph-01.jpg

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It should be perfect but I've never had a Hamilton, and i have had quite a few, that wasn't frustratingly less than the sum of the parts.

I will try to have a look though.

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Originally Posted by emgee

How about this?

https://www.grand-seiko.com/uk-en/collections/sbgw231g

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Hits all the right notes.

However, whilst I know servicing isn't impossible, Seiko making it difficult for European buyers has always put me off.

I know that they are making an effort now but they, being Seiko, could suddenly decide to stop again for no reason.

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Originally Posted by raysablade

Steel case, no date and a leather strap rather than a bracelet are the only firm conclusions so far.

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May I suggest Pinion Pure Pro...

https://www.pinionwatches.com/wp-con...eel-detail.jpg

I have the bronze version & have been very impressed with it & the service from Peirs

https://i.postimg.cc/2jtChq7F/4-C52-...EB964-D875.jpg

z

This currently up for grabs.

https://www.watchcollecting.com/?ref...5D=live&page=1

Rolex Cellini Prince.

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Originally Posted by zelig

May I suggest Pinion Pure Pro...

I have the bronze version & have been very impressed with it & the service from Peirs

https://i.postimg.cc/2jtChq7F/4-C52-...EB964-D875.jpg

z

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Its a basic Unitas underneath iirc, never managed to get excited about a watch thus equipped

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Originally Posted by Mick P

This currently up for grabs.

https://www.watchcollecting.com/?ref...5D=live&page=1

Rolex Cellini Prince.

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The one Cellini I like, not a one watch collection though.

Dornbluth and Hanhart starting to pull ahead:)

PS: That said the Speedmaster still holds some cards:

• the hesalite crystal remains a big attraction for the WIS in me and
• flight qualifcation holds on to the part of me that remains eight years old:)

I really need to see a Dornbluth in the flesh, do German dealers actually hold stock? I could take a trip over after lockdown or buy one S/H just to see it:)

Even though you’d prefer a new one, I’d recommend you to consider also preowned.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...bdf87f8611.jpg

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Originally Posted by J J Carter

Hamilton Intramatic Chrono Hand-wound, £1,800?

https://image-cdn.hypb.st/https%3A%2...nograph-01.jpg

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I was going to suggest the same.......I have both the white and blue automatic versions which I love and if I didn't I'd definitely be looking at the hand wound version with no date.

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Originally Posted by raysablade

Dornbluth is a interesting, certainly a threat to the Speedmaster at £4000, mention of it also reminded me of the Hanhart chronographs I've long admired and that are easily within budget. Prices are not on the Dornbluth site can the three hand centre seconds be had for around £4000?

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I think a Dornbluth 99.1 would come in at around £3500 or so



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Hanhart 417es (@ £1600)...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...574bdb4c88.jpg

Zenith el primero HW.

This also is a superb choice.

Alternatively you could look at a Habring2for the upper end of your budget

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Originally Posted by hhhh

Hanhart 417es (@ £1600)...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...574bdb4c88.jpg

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Longines heritage 1938 - well in budget, hand winding, no date - really growing on me, very comfortable to wear - have put it on a hirsch brown vintage style strap in this pic.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8e44b73f87.jpg

I suppose it depends on whether you want a sports watch, or are open to something that isn’t. If it was me, a manual wind watch of high quality, I would definitely have a Habring Felix. I’m planning to get one myself when the uk dealer reopens this month.

Davehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b247cbc4b6.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I personally prefer a hand winding movement over any other. The routine of winding the watch every morning creates a bond with it. My only hand cranker is a Smiths PRS29A and I’d recommend this. It’s my favourite watch in my collection because it’s simple, handsome and robust and as close to self sufficient as you can get with a long term wearer.

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Originally Posted by hhhh

Hanhart 417es (@ £1600)...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...574bdb4c88.jpg

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I back up this one, enjoying the bronze version myself!
Very nice watch, iconic military chronograph design, Steve MC Queen link if that matters, great build quality, good case design, good lume, and an amazing looking chronograph second hand bent at the tip.
Legibility is perfect, and you can use the marker on the rotating friction bezel to calculate elapsed hours on top of the minutes with the subdial.
The 100m water resistance is a good thing as well with this one

Serious contender for a reasonable price imho

Dornbluth all the way if it's within your budget. I've always considered that if I leave this hobby I'll go down to 3 watches. I'll never sell the Datejust I've owned from new since 1984, I'll also keep the CWC quartz diver for the rough stuff, and the rest will go in order to get a Dornbluth. Of course a great benefit is that you can take it off and gaze at the whirligigs whizzing through the back as you wind it. I'd also make a job of it and go to Kalbe to pick up in person. The Archimede I bought from SC in 2015 to try the style has been great to own, but you know how it is . . .


Archimede . . .

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-NShX6MV-L.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-CvMT7kG-L.jpg


Dornbluth . . .


https://www.dornblueth.com/images/mo...ements_990.png

I do like my Stowa’s

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...12ea15e030.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad4178752d.jpg

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Originally Posted by helidoc

I suppose it depends on whether you want a sports watch, or are open to something that isn’t. If it was me, a manual wind watch of high quality, I would definitely have a Habring Felix. I’m planning to get one myself when the uk dealer reopens this month.

Dave

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Admirable watchmaking but too austere. My instinctive enjoyment of the Hanhart aesthetic is telling in that respect.

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Originally Posted by Wandril

I back up this one, enjoying the bronze version myself!
Very nice watch, iconic military chronograph design, Steve MC Queen link if that matters, great build quality, good case design, good lume, and an amazing looking chronograph second hand bent at the tip.
Legibility is perfect, and you can use the marker on the rotating friction bezel to calculate elapsed hours on top of the minutes with the subdial.
The 100m water resistance is a good thing as well with this one

Serious contender for a reasonable price imho

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I am sold on Hanhart, no least because of the strong similarity to my loved and lost Aerowatch.


I prefer it without cathedral hands which makes this one particularly appealing.


The UK distributor is out of stock so that gives the competition a chance in the short term.

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Originally Posted by smashie

I do like my Stowa’s

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Me too but never had one strong enough to pull off the one watch collection trick.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Redcoat

I personally prefer a hand winding movement over any other. The routine of winding the watch every morning creates a bond with it. My only hand cranker is a Smiths PRS29A and I’d recommend this. It’s my favourite watch in my collection because it’s simple, handsome and robust and as close to self sufficient as you can get with a long term wearer.

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If i hadn't given my son the first edition PRS29A that has ever since been his daily wear, i think it would do the trick at a price so low it makes you want to weep. As it is it would need to be a MK2 to maintain a difference and i dislike the domed sapphire aesthetic with a passion:)

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Originally Posted by magirus

Dornbluth all the way if it's within your budget. I've always considered that if I leave this hobby I'll go down to 3 watches. I'll never sell the Datejust I've owned from new since 1984, I'll also keep the CWC quartz diver for the rough stuff, and the rest will go in order to get a Dornbluth. Of course a great benefit is that you can take it off and gaze at the whirligigs whizzing through the back as you wind it. I'd also make a job of it and go to Kalbe to pick up in person. The Archimede I bought from SC in 2015 to try the style has been great to own, but you know how it is . . .

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Dornbluth seems to be the head and shoulders above the rest in terms of credentials. As I'm not going to be able to try one it seems sensible to look to buy second hand, at a good price, with a view to resale. Then, if we get on, contact Dornbluth with a bespoke spec, I already have something in mind.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by raysablade

Prices are not on the Dornbluth site can the three hand centre seconds be had for around £4000?

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From another thread; catalog & price list

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ax

From another thread; catalog & price list

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Thanks, that confirms my view that if I let one of the Explorer or, more likely, GMT II go a complex as you like bespoke watch is affordable with about a year to wait.

First challenge then is to find one for a trial run, maybe a WTB in the offing.

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Originally Posted by smashie

I do like my Stowa’s

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...12ea15e030.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad4178752d.jpg

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I actually forgot that you could get the stowa flieger watches with the hand wound ETA, around the £1k price point that would be my pick, they're really well made

If it’s a genuine keeper then a bespoke Dornbluth would be hard to beat.

Given your requirements and budget I'd have to agree with Ryan about the Dornbluth. Truly exceptional and built for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by raysablade

Admirable watchmaking but too austere. My instinctive enjoyment of the Hanhart aesthetic is telling in that respect.




I am sold on Hanhart, no least because of the strong similarity to my loved and lost Aerowatch.


I prefer it without cathedral hands which makes this one particularly appealing.


The UK distributor is out of stock so that gives the competition a chance in the short term.





Me too but never had one strong enough to pull off the one watch collection trick.





If i hadn't given my son the first edition PRS29A that has ever since been his daily wear, i think it would do the trick at a price so low it makes you want to weep. As it is it would need to be a MK2 to maintain a difference and i dislike the domed sapphire aesthetic with a passion:)





Dornbluth seems to be the head and shoulders above the rest in terms of credentials. As I'm not going to be able to try one it seems sensible to look to buy second hand, at a good price, with a view to resale. Then, if we get on, contact Dornbluth with a bespoke spec, I already have something in mind.

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There's a hanhart 417 ES for sale on the SC if you still fancy giving it a try

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Originally Posted by Wandril

There's a Hanhart 417 ES for sale on the SC if you still fancy giving it a try

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Thanks, if I am going for a Hanhart my preference is for the white dial I know we will get on from my experience with the Aerowatch.

Current shortlist and ranking is now:

1 Nomos Orion 1989 (cases on these are sublime and 38mm is the sweet spot imho)
2 The previous generation 1861 Speedmaster Pro Hesalite on a leather strap. (It is fight qualified, nothing else is)
3 Dornbluth 42 mm Centre seconds (case looks a little too uninspiring)
4 Hanhart Admiral Chronograph (aged lume keeping it from a higher ranking)
5 Grand Seiko SBGW231 (has all the technical qualification to be top of the list, that I cant rank it over two watches that are half the price is telling)

With the Speedmaster hanging in so strongly does anyone know a dealer with stock and a propensity to discount?

A Universal Geneve... many options out there and they are beautifully built.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5033834141.jpg

I thought it would be worth relating what I ended up with. I should probably not be surprised that, in the end, it was two watches but it is interesting to me that I have owned both at points in the past.

Something I was relieved to do was buy things that are;

• not going to appreciate in value to the point that I don't want to wear them,
• look great to me and
• are cheap enough to replace without an insurance claim, should the need arise.

The new CWC quartz divers are ridiculously expensive for what they offer but the 1983 version ticks every aesthetic box for me and reminds me of the Silvermans shop, that I always enjoy visiting. The idea that a world renowned watch brand can be run out of an army surplus store is very British and loveably so.

The Nomos Orion 309, is the most perfectly beautiful watch I've ever owned, and one that I always regretted selling. I've long believed that when they saw the Orion's case, all the other case designers in Germany gave up. That's the only reasonable explanation for the slab sides on the otherwise exquisite Dornbluth.

I toyed with the 38mm 1989 version of the Orion but I knew in my heart of hearts that:

• that 35mm is the limit for the sub-dial placement of the Alpha movement and
• the Neomatik movement works in a bigger case but I wanted an hand-winder.

Looking forward to settling down with these, I really think I am off the roundabout. Just need to work out how to sell my Rolex duo, it never occurred to me that I would have watches worth this much.