Resurrecting a Girard-Perregaux
I am an inveterate browser on eBay, particularly the wristwatches section.
Early in January this year I came across a lot containing what were simply described in the title as “Old Gold Wrist Watches”. Looking at the picture it was clear there was a Roamer and an Avia…but what was that indeterminate third watch?
https://i.imgur.com/jtZ3viC.jpg
The detailed description – in as much as you can call it detailed – simply described it as a “Girard”, so I immediately thought “Girard-Perregaux”. It was difficult to tell anything much from the photo, other than the dial looked in poor condition, but I kept my eye on the lot and eventually put in a late starting bid of £19.99 that turned out to be the only one. Three watches for a penny under £20 was hard to argue with!
The watches arrived and when I unwrapped them sure enough the third watch was a Girard-Perregaux. It was in a pretty sorry state, though, with quite a bit of wear on the case but also significant damage to the dial.
https://i.imgur.com/zwbydrU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EH8gLjG.jpg
Thinking it could well be the result of water damage it was with some trepidation that I removed the case back, only to be delighted to find that the movement itself was very clean. It was a Girard-Perregaux Calibre 20, which according to Ranfft is a modified Peseux 335 (http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-...d-Perregaux_20) dating from the 1960’s.
https://i.imgur.com/Sec1L02.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yxgRsoA.jpg
With my penchant for dress watches of that era I immediately thought about getting it restored. I have seen redials before and know that many feel a redial spoils a vintage watch, but it was simply unwearable in its current state so there was really little choice but either to scrap it or restore it.
I was travelling in Europe for work at the time, but a quick exchange of emails with Brendan (webwatchmaker - who has serviced and repaired a number of my other watches) resulted in me packing up the watch when I got back home and sending it off to him in order to get an expert’s opinion.
A couple of weeks later and I heard back from Brendan – he had stripped down the watch and as well as the obvious dial restore it was going to need a service and a new crystal, crown and mainspring.
https://i.imgur.com/uTtsDao.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fob1J53.jpg
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This was clearly not going to be cheap, so I cautiously asked for an estimate. Brendan reckoned that, all in, I was looking at somewhere North of the £300 mark.
Hmmm…..that seemed quite a hefty investment for a watch that only cost me about £7. Some might justifiably question why go ahead, particularly for a watch that held no personal sentimental value. Against that, though, the movement was in great condition, the case could be made dustproof for everyday use, it would be my first Girard-Perregaux, and it seemed such a shame to scrap a watch that still had the opportunity to be worn and enjoyed. So after a few moments of deliberation I decided to go ahead.
Brendan recommended using a Swiss dial restorer, but I have to say that I was really unsure quite what could be done with the dial in such a state.
Ten days or so later an email from Brendan appeared in my Inbox letting me know that everything was back and ready to be reassembled. Brendan had cleaned up and re-lumed the hands to match, and as it turned out the mainspring hadn’t needed replacing after all. The photos of the dial surpassed my expectations.
https://i.imgur.com/ExsnsGf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nLvilmM.jpg
We had earlier discussed finding a better case, and at some point I’d love to source a suitable one in solid gold, but for the meantime decided to stick with the original.
I was again abroad last week, so arranged with Brendan for the watch to be delivered on Friday. I didn’t catch the postman when he called, but the watch dropped through the letterbox and I unwrapped it with growing excitement……which turned to despair when I saw that the minute hand was rotating freely with no friction. Thank you Royal Mail!
No problem, though, as a quick mail to Brendan saw the watch on its way back to him for rectification. A three-day turnaround and, lo and behold, the watch arrived back with me today. I had already selected a dark brown lizard strap, even if just as a stopgap, got the watch mounted and here it is:
https://i.imgur.com/uZzRTva.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Sh2jiZg.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kUIlpvG.png
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As you can see, it’s perhaps a couple of millimeters smaller in diameter than the Omegas it shares a watch box with, but very similar in size to the solid gold Roidor at the far end. Despite its diminutive size compared to the modern fashion for watches it sits beautifully on the wrist. So far it is keeping excellent time and I’ll track it over the next couple of days to see how it fares.
I am delighted with how the watch has turned out. I know some will be shaking their heads at the cost, and others the redial, but it is lovely to have it sitting here in front of me now and thinking that – with care – it will go on bringing enjoyment for perhaps another 50 years or more. I was hoping to find out more about its history, but that database of Girard-Perregaux serial numbers remains elusive.
A huge vote of thanks to Brendan for the wonderful restoration work, the frequent updates and photos, and the honest and forthright advice given throughout.
P.S. So far as the other two watches, the Roamer only ticks for a few seconds and needs to go for a thorough service. The Avia, on the other hand, works like a dream and keeps surprisingly good time.
