New Watch - Breeze of Opinion?

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15th September 2019, 10:38
Guycord

New Watch - Breeze of Opinion?
Shooting the breeze of opinion on this one.

Currently lining up to add to the collection in the big smoke next week. I have plenty of Rolex’s, Omega’s etc… Have a nice PP5134 which does the dress watch thing and no real desire for expanding into PP. Not a big fan of the APRO either. Could do the Code 11:59 but too pricey at present.

This is what I fancy:-
1. Ulysse Nardin Freak X, Blue titanium or gold (gold is really beyond what I would like to pay)
2. Girard Perregeaux Laurento 38mm – either 3-hander or Chrono, SS Blue.
3. Vacheron Constantin Overseas – 3 hander. (I prefer the Mk2 Chrono with big date to be honest). Brown Dial.
I have a real suckering for blue dials and sub 40-41mm but I feel that Blue Dials, SS Rolex, SS Pateks and megablock APs are all going to be passé very soon as people run out of patience with delivery times, grey market pricing and the repeated wash-rinse-repeat of hearing about tags, stickers and “investment” watches that have risen too high, too quickly for all our own good.

Obviously, I will be having a good squint of all of these next week and may decide to purchase something that takes my fancy.

However, what do you all think? Any valid alternatives to the above?
15th September 2019, 11:30
Danstone

The Ulysse is a new one for me. I’ve had a quick look and absolutely love it. You won’t see many others and that’s part of the appeal for me. UN also seems to be a maker that’s stepping up it’s game recently.
I’ve had the twin time versions of the Mk2 Overseas and the previous Laureato and can testify to their tremendous finishing and build quality. The bracelet on the VC is probably the best I’ve ever had.

Unfortunately, despite all being great watches and better than most of the watches with the big waiting lists, branding is key so most will lose big money if bought at retail price. By all means try in the boutiques but grey is probably the way to go.
15th September 2019, 11:59
ASW1

That's quite a range of watches above from delicate to wacky.

If you're after blue I have a few suggestions all outside of your brief, but like looking for houses perhaps the solution is not what you actually think it is.

I've had my eye taken recently by the blue dial co-axial speedy moonphases. I'm of the school that if you're going to wear a timepiece then 'wear a timepiece', not a little child's watch.

There's the steel version, which on balance might be the most likely choice I finally make if I do get one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12cad93d4f.jpg
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...er-chronograph

Then the Blue Side of the Moon - if you're going blue, then go all out blue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8c175779ba.jpg
https://www.ablogtowatch.com/omega-s...onphase-watch/
http://en.worldtempus.com/article/wa...oon-26896.html

And finally the aventurine Blue Side... Flashy and unapologetic.
https://www.fratellowatches.com/spee...enturine-dial/
https://youtu.be/ERtWwhy1_u8

Another brand to explore is Panerai. Thy have some lovely flue dials in their Due line. These are a bit controversial for Panerai as they are in 30m water resistant, but you can't deny that the titanium ones with gold hands look the bomb, with a size option for all.
https://www.panerai.com/gb/en/collec...RoCtAoQAvD_BwE

They have some other blue Luminors.
https://www.panerai.com/gb/en/collec...na---44mm.html
https://www.panerai.com/gb/en/collec...mt---44mm.html

And finally, my choice and perhaps my end game watch, the Panerai PAM670 Equation of Time. Titanium, starburst blue dial, gold hands, extensive complications, 8 day manual wind, domed crystal, easy change strap mechanism and a strap tart - looks stunning on so many options. It's big, but unapologetic, confident and stunning.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2442600ed5.jpg
https://timeandtidewatches.com/intro...-time-titanio/

Enjoy your hunt.
15th September 2019, 12:08
gladders

Coincidentally, I’ve been thinking about the Freak X too. Gray may be the way - Watches of Mayfair (where I bought my Chopard Time Traveller One) have the blue version listed at £14.5k:

https://watchesofmayfair.com/brand/u...-x-2303-270-03

I should probably nudge my sales posts again to make this happen.

simon
15th September 2019, 13:31
Fredamens

I just got one of these and it very blue and very lovely.

https://www.grand-seiko.com/uk-en/special/sbga407/

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15th September 2019, 14:50
Guycord

Quote:

Originally Posted by gladders

Coincidentally, I’ve been thinking about the Freak X too. Gray may be the way - Watches of Mayfair (where I bought my Chopard Time Traveller One) have the blue version listed at £14.5k:

https://watchesofmayfair.com/brand/u...-x-2303-270-03

I should probably nudge my sales posts again to make this happen.

simon

WoM are quoting 18 weeks. Not because of 116500LN-type demand but because they are not being over-produced apparently ?
15th September 2019, 14:52
Guycord

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danstone

The Ulysse is a new one for me. I’ve had a quick look and absolutely love it. You won’t see many others and that’s part of the appeal for me. UN also seems to be a maker that’s stepping up it’s game recently.
I’ve had the twin time versions of the Mk2 Overseas and the previous Laureato and can testify to their tremendous finishing and build quality. The bracelet on the VC is probably the best I’ve ever had.

Unfortunately, despite all being great watches and better than most of the watches with the big waiting lists, branding is key so most will lose big money if bought at retail price. By all means try in the boutiques but grey is probably the way to go.

I have the UN Dual time manufacture, black dial. Totally blistering time keeping. Underrated and less flamboyant than most UN models
15th September 2019, 14:53
peterdo

The brown dial VC.

If buying new, probably need to get a deal as likely to haemorrhage cash

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15th September 2019, 14:53
gladders

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guycord

WoM are quoting 18 weeks. Not because of 116500LN-type demand but because they are not being over-produced apparently ?

Ouch. That’s a long wait. Moser Pioneer Center Seconds is a gorgeous blue, but maybe too big at 42.8mm...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3e09bf0c33.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
15th September 2019, 17:49
markrlondon

^^^ There is something unutterably beautiful about Moser watches.
15th September 2019, 17:55
Umbongo

Quote:

Originally Posted by markrlondon

^^^ There is something unutterably beautiful about Moser watches.

Agreed in terms of beauty...but that one's too big.
15th September 2019, 18:01
jukeboxs

What about the Piaget Polo S? Admittedly 42mm, but a lovely shade of blue.

P.S. I assume big smoke means London?
16th September 2019, 13:41
Tom-P

https://www.zenith-watches.com/en_en...versary-2.html

= 38mm. Such pedigree.
16th September 2019, 14:39
crazyp

I am a self confessed Freak fan - yet to own one, but the X has made the idea quite accessible. However I'm on the fence compared to the 'full size' Freak Out's. It's probably not fair to compare them to one another, but its somewhat inevitable as they both have 'Freak' in the name.

The X is much more practical and a nicer view of the balance, but it does lack some of the purity charm of the Freak Out. The blue version is probably the pick, but I'd be interested to see the Carbonium version in the metal. The WoM price is not bad at all as well.

SJX did a really good write up recently on a slightly different version https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/08/uly...nium-gold.html
16th September 2019, 15:15
EJL25

To me one of the main features of Freak was that there is no crown.
16th September 2019, 15:20
crazyp

Quote:

Originally Posted by EJL25

To me one of the main features of Freak was that there is no crown.

That place having the entire gear train on the dial. The more I look at the X, the more I want the Freak Out.....
17th September 2019, 02:35
Guycord

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazyp

I am a self confessed Freak fan - yet to own one, but the X has made the idea quite accessible. However I'm on the fence compared to the 'full size' Freak Out's. It's probably not fair to compare them to one another, but its somewhat inevitable as they both have 'Freak' in the name.

The X is much more practical and a nicer view of the balance, but it does lack some of the purity charm of the Freak Out. The blue version is probably the pick, but I'd be interested to see the Carbonium version in the metal. The WoM price is not bad at all as well.

SJX did a really good write up recently on a slightly different version https://watchesbysjx.com/2019/08/uly...nium-gold.html

I Find it interesting that many people define (here and elsewhere) the Freak as a watch without a crown?

To me, the Freak is a watch design which expresses a rotatory baguette mechanism culminating in a orbital carousel on display (Diavolo has a Tourb) at the base of the minute hand.

The original Freaks are very well finished, big and that 50% of the watch is for a heavy mainspring. I actually see the manual winding versions a bit of a drag and the very early models had no way to lock the crown down. A locking tab had to be designed. Further, the latest crownless models have 3 grip lugs which rotate about the dial in a random way and to me detracts from the design.

A major concern for me is the finish on the X - its a lovely mech but the finish is a little robust for the money.

I also have an issue with the thickness. The X is certainly thinner than the full-fat versions but gauging by how much....I will try and see tomorrow.
17th September 2019, 15:37
crazyp

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guycord

I Find it interesting that many people define (here and elsewhere) the Freak as a watch without a crown?

To me, the Freak is a watch design which expresses a rotatory baguette mechanism culminating in a orbital carousel on display (Diavolo has a Tourb) at the base of the minute hand.

The original Freaks are very well finished, big and that 50% of the watch is for a heavy mainspring. I actually see the manual winding versions a bit of a drag and the very early models had no way to lock the crown down. A locking tab had to be designed. Further, the latest crownless models have 3 grip lugs which rotate about the dial in a random way and to me detracts from the design.

A major concern for me is the finish on the X - its a lovely mech but the finish is a little robust for the money.

I also have an issue with the thickness. The X is certainly thinner than the full-fat versions but gauging by how much....I will try and see tomorrow.

I get what you're saying OP - the carousel aspect remains and the X is much more practical - smaller and easier day to day.

The article I highlighted from SJX, he makes the point that the X is a better redux of the Freak concept and it is hard to argue. Some of the idiosyncrasies however give the Freak part of its charm.

I think finish on the X will be fine - the key is the balance and that is all silicon. Same for thickness. Let us know how your try goes!
18th September 2019, 21:20
Guycord

I finally got to have hands-on all the models today.

The Titanium Blue is lovely. Very demur in character. It is specified as a 43mm but wears like a 40-41mm.

If fact, I was blow away with the delicacy of the movement - but reassured it was very robust at the same time. Thickness is a non-issue and I would place it at 11-13mm.

The domed glass seemed to give it a couple of mm which i my opinion it did not need to.

The carbon looked and felt mickey-mouse. I dont understand why people go for this type of material. Trendy - yes. Feel-good no.

I had hands on the Skeleton X as well - blown away by that one. The brightness and detail. Pin buckle rather than a deployment. No go for me.

Back to the Freak X. The gold case is nice - best out of the 4 but the deployant is not gold.

Now to the real issues:-
1. I fancy the Blue titanium Freak X. Totally lovely watch but it is not £19k's work.
2. Ditto the Rose Gold. Would I have a RG Freak X at £24k or a 116519LN for £22.5k. Absolutely no contest.
3. I would put the Freak X in Titanium at £12k
4. The Executive seemed like OK at £15k
5. Went to 4 dealers today. The best I got out of any of them was MRSP minus 3%. Yes 3%!

Politely walked away from them all. C24 best price is now down at £14k. Im going to sit this one out a few months and try again.
18th September 2019, 21:28
Gerald Genta

Might be worth giving 'Time and Gems' at bicester village a call once a week and see what they have / get in stock. They tend to get a random mix of current models and they are sold at around 30% off rrp with an additional 10-20% depending on how much you spend (think greater than £10k is an additional 15% off) When I was last there a couple fo weeks ago they had quite a few models from the executive range and a freak out (no freak x) Freak out worked out at just under 50% off rrp!! They also stock gerrard pirregaux with similar levels of discounts.

The problem is they can't orfer in specific models and have no idea what they will receive each week.
22nd September 2019, 08:15
gladders

I saw the Freak X in Selfridges yesterday, and was absolutely blown away. It certainly didn't feel like a 43 watch–in fact, it was a perfect fit on my scrawny wrist. The movement is absolutely mesmerizing, and suddenly all my other watches feel a tad pedestrian.

However, £20k does feel like a lot when they're available around £14/15k through grey dealers. My preference was the black PVD version:

https://deployant.com/wp-content/upl...lique-left.jpg

(taken from https://deployant.com/review-ulysse-nardin-freak-x/)

simon
22nd September 2019, 10:51
Guycord

Quote:

Originally Posted by gladders

I saw the Freak X in Selfridges yesterday, and was absolutely blown away. It certainly didn't feel like a 43 watch–in fact, it was a perfect fit on my scrawny wrist. The movement is absolutely mesmerizing, and suddenly all my other watches feel a tad pedestrian.

However, £20k does feel like a lot when they're available around £14/15k through grey dealers.

Its kind of difficult on one hand for the big shops to compete with big rents but then to have zero discussion on price and I assume subsequent loss of sale after sale when online traders are selling already at 30% discount sounds a bit defeatist to me.

Had they or others I visited moved a meaningful amount, I would have booked it. They didn’t so next move will save more.
24th September 2019, 09:50
crazyp

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guycord

I finally got to have hands-on all the models today.

The Titanium Blue is lovely. Very demur in character. It is specified as a 43mm but wears like a 40-41mm.

If fact, I was blow away with the delicacy of the movement - but reassured it was very robust at the same time. Thickness is a non-issue and I would place it at 11-13mm.

The domed glass seemed to give it a couple of mm which i my opinion it did not need to.

The carbon looked and felt mickey-mouse. I dont understand why people go for this type of material. Trendy - yes. Feel-good no.

I had hands on the Skeleton X as well - blown away by that one. The brightness and detail. Pin buckle rather than a deployment. No go for me.

Back to the Freak X. The gold case is nice - best out of the 4 but the deployant is not gold.

Now to the real issues:-
1. I fancy the Blue titanium Freak X. Totally lovely watch but it is not £19k's work.
2. Ditto the Rose Gold. Would I have a RG Freak X at £24k or a 116519LN for £22.5k. Absolutely no contest.
3. I would put the Freak X in Titanium at £12k
4. The Executive seemed like OK at £15k
5. Went to 4 dealers today. The best I got out of any of them was MRSP minus 3%. Yes 3%!

Politely walked away from them all. C24 best price is now down at £14k. Im going to sit this one out a few months and try again.

A bit late on this! Thanks for your insights. Guess I need to try on the X. I think you will have to go grey. Not a fan at all of those skeleton UNs. They come off a bit odd to me. But good luck finding a good deal, and let us know, I'm sure a few members will be interested ;)
24th September 2019, 12:11
Stefs

I have the blue 38 lauraeto and although I don't wear it anywhere near as much as it deserves it really is superb and would get my vote.
https://i.postimg.cc/VkMVm2gy/B6-C96...DB18860-A0.jpg