Extreme cycling...link?
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Extreme cycling...link?
I ran this Boardman Team Carbon with Fulcrum Racing Quattro wheels for a year and a bit, but the front end was a bit low for me
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Bought this Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc....
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It broke - or rather the rear mech did, and during the long and drawn out process of trying to get Madison to inspect and replace it under warranty, I fell upon this Cube Agree C62 Race Disc. It's a weird mash up of 2016/17 - it seems to have a 2016 frame and fork (as far as the decals go), 2016 rims but 2017 features like the hubs and orange cables. I'm not bothered, I just like riding it.
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It's a lovely, lovely bike, but then they were all lovely bikes in their own way. A second hand carbon Boardman is EXCELLENT value for money, and if I was a bit stronger and not supporting my weight on my arms and elbows all of the time, I'd have kept it. The Cubes are both a bit higher at the front end and more comfortable (for me).
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My old crit bike, built it up scratch to my spec and the wheels too!
Was rapid..
Not quite finished but built my Nukeproof Scout up yesterday.
Just cassette, chain, rotors and pedals to fit.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f03dae58b4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e0367a8746.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...79225578f7.jpg
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Taking these comments on board I've finished it.
Also took it out and got it dirty [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ff5c487081.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd0470218e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...097f594590.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1beeb3e36e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b7800ae374.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7fd1b58375.jpg
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Here is my Trek Emonda SL,5
I fancy some nice carbon rims for it next year
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I have an old carrera which i use a few times a week to commute and very occasionally do some trails. Everything needs a good service. there are a lot of clicking noises coming from the pedals/crank so i was thinking of buying a new crank and BB. Thing is like i say most of my time on the bike is commuting and im always in the top crank so can i get just a single crank and do away with the derailer? This should reduce the weight a bit also.
Any help on what i would need would be great.
Here is an old pic of the bike, unfortunately nowhere near as shiny any more.
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You probably just need a new bottom bracket as it will likely be the bearings that are shot. No need to get a new crank. Unless you really want to tidy up the crankset you could change the outer ring for a 'straight narrow' single speed chainring. Hope ones are good - and considering the quality not silly expensive. You can remove the inner chainrings from the existing crank, but if you do that you might need crank bolts for a single ring set up. And then of course you could remove the front mech, cables and shifter - saving a little weight, but really the benefit is lower maintenance and simplicity when riding.
You could always change the size (number of teeth) on front ring to give you a spread of gears that is 'easier = smaller ring' or 'harder = larger'
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Just entered a triathlon and think I need a road bike as the mtb ain’t that quick,never had one before,don’t want to spend silly money on one ,any recommendations and what should I be looking for ,in terms of frame ,gears ,wheels cheers mick
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Probably no more than a grand
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You’ll do well on anything used, bear in mind that the Wheels are where the best investment is made, don’t get hung up on Gears and Fancy frames your legs are the engine the rest is just icing. A used Tarmac or Roubaix or any of the Cannondale Super Six or Canyons are good, Ive only ever got the miles in on Spesh but the others are much of a muchness. Its easy to get sucked in and indulge in bikes like watches etc the correct number is always N+1 but for a grand you’ll find something respectable I’m sure especially in the winter months
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Current fleet. I did quite a bit of cycling over the Summer. Ditched 4 bikes to get down to just 2 - I’m cured!
Rondo Ruut ST Gravel and Condor Fratello Road.
I'd agree with Kerry, go used. You should be able to pick up something pretty good secondhand on eBay. It's a buyer's market. A lot of people buy these bikes & hardly use them.
The likes of Giant, Canyon, Boardman, Cube, Focus. Spend some time making sure you know what size frame suits you.
Best bang for your buck to get you more speed is to fit a set of clip on tri-bars.
Also agree go pre-owned.
I bought a new Cannondale Supersix 105 new in 2012, it was the 2011 model so got a good discount. The geometry on the bike is more of a race feel compared to the Cannondale Synapse, so it will depend on your style of riding and flexibility.
I've just upgraded to another Supersix EVO hi mod full Dura Ace, cracking bike, but too good for the condition of the roads and weather at the moment.
Best bet is to try a few out and see what size/style best suits you.
Also set aside part of the budget for a decent helmet, lights and clothing. oh and inner tubes, no point repairing as they are cheap.
What ever you get just get out, enjoy and be safe.
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In your groups choice Dura Ace is the top version but does wear quicker than Ultregra which is equally seemless in perfermance, the current Ultregra is the Dura Ace of 3 years ago so personally I spend my money on Ultregra as a bang for buck and superb performance option, dont get sucked into thinking more is better. If you want to spend then anything that spins so Wheels and, Cranks and Pedals are the main Dura Ace things I would have but can’t emphasise enough that Ultregra even 105 is all you will ever need
My girlie got me the Garmin radar system for my bike should make riding a bit safer
When riding with someone side by side on a b road you don't have to keep looking
Over your shoulder to see if a car is coming
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Here is a video showing how the system works
https://youtu.be/-ATCT4YCL-o
Couple of posts up...yes, inner tubes are cheap but rubber is very hard to recycle and they take about two minutes to fix with e.g https://www.wiggle.co.uk/rema-tip-to...pair-kit-tt02/
Today I competed in my first coasting race. It started at the top of a big hill & the rules are that you cannot pedal, have to stay seated on the saddle, no bunny hopping at the end, no weaving, no bricks in saddlebags etc.
From a standing start you coast down the hill & try & get as far along the run-off at the bottom of the hill as you can. A chalk mark with your race number is made on the road at the point where you come to a standstill. The furthest up the road wins.
Quite a good turnout, but I suppose it would be for a race where no actual pedalling is involved & where the more mince pies you've eaten over the festive period gives you a competetive advantage.
A flag marked the place where the leader had reached. I went for the aerodynamic approach; hands gripping either side of the centre line on the tops, chin touching stem, elbows tucked in & knees together. I just hit 40mph when the road flattened out & was quite pleased to pass nearly all of the previous riders' chalk marks, but the leader's flag was nearly 15 metres further up the road.
The winner had a good 25kg of fat advantage over me. Under the circumstances I was happy with second place.
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Cool event and one in which the Christmas pudding pounds are actually an advantage!
No matter where I wander I seem to always maintain you can have whatever colour bike you like as long as it’s black!
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Looks clean & well looked after. Have you tried Di2 Kerry?
Why's that?
I must admit I've been caught out with the battery running down & eventually being left with one gear. But that's because I hadn't charged it for a couple of months.
Also I had an issue when I was riding in the Etape London with a team of 10 riders, 6 of whom were pros from the OnePro team. I hit a pothole & instantly lost all my gears front & back. We had a following team car & the mechanic told me to stop at the brow of the next hill & he'd sort it. He thought the battery connector might have popped off. However, when we stopped, the battery wasn't in the seat tube as he'd thought. It was accessed through the bottom bracket shell & he said that he'd have to remove the cranks & bottom bracket. "How long will that take?" I asked as I watched these 6 pros & my 3 team mates disappearing over the horizon. "Oh about 5 minutes" was the response.
The bike was put on the roof & we chased & passed the group. That was a white knuckle experience in itself. We stopped at the next feed station & I went inside for a pee. When I came out a few minutes later the gears were fixed. What had happened was the connectors into the brake hoods had popped out when the jolt had pushed them into my hands. The mechanic said that it was a common occurrence & that there needed to be a loop put in the wire under the bar tape close to the brake hoods to act as a safety valve. It's been ok since.
Now I've got used to it I really don't like the feel of any of my mechanical set ups.
Don’t read too much into that. Di2 is brilliant. I haven’t got a bad word to
Say about it nor of mechanical. I just would rather spend £500 than £1000 to achieve the same thing these days.
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Just half the price and does the same. Doesn’t date as quickly and relies less on a gadget which gets me essence of riding a bike again and that’s turning pedals not gadgets. I use the bike to escape gadgetary these days although I’m clinging on for dear life to the bike as I’m riding less and less each year
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Plus it’s a lot easier with winter gloves on
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I was a bit so what about Di2, but now I have it I love it.
Main things it self indexes so e.g. my ride yesterday in 80 miles I only went on the little ring on one very steep section as you can ride on all the gears on the big ring without getting rattly.
Secondly it's so easy to change gear so I find it easier to keep it in the right gear when under pressure.
I do ride it in the winter and no issue with gloves but I don't have big hands.
Everyone I know who has moved to it is a convert.
If anyone is riding in the cooler weather then I have 3 Assos Jackets that ill probably never use, all brand new and varying layering properties, One for cool day, one for cooler, and one for showers. Appreciate Assos is top end quality and performance so not for everyone but they are there if anyone is interested then just PM or text me if not Ill think about advertising in the New Year on cycling forums or eBay.
Any thoughts on disc brakes on road bikes? I only got them on a mountain bike last year, and have been so impressed with them there. I think I am going to be getting a new bike as I have a couple of duathlons this year which will involve crit type circuits. Town centre races with very tight turns on narrow roads and short sharp steep climbs and descents. A million miles from what I am used to on airfield duathlons and time trials - for which I have two triathlon bikes.
I'll definitely be getting discs on my next road bike. The rim brakes on my Canyon are shockingly bad. Also, when you're riding in a group, for example on a Chain Gang or a Road Race when you're not hanging about, if you're riding on the wheel of somebody with discs you're at risk of hitting them if they brake. It's ok if everybody's brakes are rubbish but it's a liability when half of the group have great brakes & the other half don't. Especially if it's wet.
While I wouldn't wish to dissuade you from getting disc brakes, if someone brakes hard in the situation described above, the rider behind is going down no matter what brakes anyone has. If people having different braking systems were truly that dangerous in the peloton, everyone using either one or the other would be mandated. As we see in professional racing though, this is not the case.
A lot of people get discs to save their rims and get better braking in the delightful British weather. As my bikes' rim brakes work well, I personally see no need to spend the cash to move from rim to discs currently, though I don't think that there is any doubt that discs have an advantage in this scenario.
Apart from the comment on riding in mixed braking groups I think discs on road bikes are a huge step forward. Given a lot more performance and confidence. Highly recommended.
Comparing my previous bike, a Cannondale with discs I would have agreed 100% as the Cannondale's predecessor's rim brakes were awful. However my current bike has Ultegra rim brakes that are superb, very powerful and easy to modulate. Main advantage of discs over these I would think is wet weather performance, and also if you use wheels with carbon rims where rim brake performance may be compromised.
Discs in the alps or downhill are amazing. That will depend on your experience but the gain downhill is very good. If you’re not screaming downhill in a race then it’s debatable.
By that I mean all the bike shops want to sell you the latest and greatest thing to help a business that’s had a very hard decade and is struggling. If you ride a bike then you like riding. You don’t need to be able to go flat out downhill braking later than your pad using frend but if you race the cost and hassle of them is worth the squeeze.
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Thanks for the comments above. Added to the complication is that the races are in bunches with lots of others who (like me) will be inexperienced in riding in groups, as triathlons/duathlons are normally draft illegal in the UK in age group racing. They will also be trying to go flat out and draft as they are the European Championships in July 2019.
I might have to start a thread on what disc race bike (looking at Vitus and Giant, as both carbon framed and under £2k)!!
get yourself down to hillingdon in the spring as soon as its open for cat 4’s and ride, even if its at the back. a load of triathletes being thrown into a tight crit race is only going to end in carnage. do you train solo? even training/recreational riding in a group will help, you will learn to know the gap in front of you without ever looking down which is what all new riders do. you learn to trust those around you but unfortunately the lower cat races always have a few choppers.
edit: they have a winter series on so as long as its not icy they race through jan/feb. or just go and stand on the corner at the end of a straight and see how its done.
LVRC National Crit. Champs 2018. Milton Keynes Bowl. I'm in the Bath CC Skinsuit.
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Has it would be my first bike I’m not sure wether to just go for a new boardman,seen one that should be £1000 ,wants £600 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...461ad0ec07.jpg
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Just ring me if you need a steer but the Boardman i would avoid for £600. The giant is ok would be better at £750 if groupset is not worn.
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Decided to buy new as I wasn’t sure what size I needed and didn’t want the hassle of buying a second hand piece of junk.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...89a8701bf7.jpghad it a week but only managed to go on it today,never had a road bike before,I new it would be an harder ride than the mtb,also found out that they don’t grip like an mtb,when I lost the front end on a roundabout,nothing broken but the knees and wrists are sore.
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