Rolex bracelet on small wrists

I thought I'd start this thread detailing the issue getting a bracelet for the Rolex Sub, GMT and maybe others, to fit well on small wrists. My wrist is 6.5" and her's a photo of how the clasp sits, not good. So this may help others, but also someone may be able to help me.

http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/...ps95efad76.jpg

I knew that there was an issue with the bracelet on the 14060 doing this, but didn't think it applied to any others. Some research on t'web tells me that the Sub date has a 3mm shorter link joining the clasp, which gives a better fit, but still not enough for us skinnies. It looks like the GMT and 14060 have the same fit problem.

I first tried a few 20mm bracelets I bought for one of my Seikos. None had end links that would work, although I have one that will work with the right links.
So I ordered a pair of cheap Chinese 'Rolex' end links. They came today, line up OK, but the spring bar holes don't line up. Now trying to get some slightly better ones from the US. If all else fails, I will need genuine Rolex folded end links, as mine are solid.

I also don't like the Rolex bracelet, it has the hollow centre links. I don't like bracelets that taper too much, like this going from 20mm to 16mm.
The one I have is 20 - 18mm and I have also found a replacement for the Tudor Tiger, which looks like a straight 20mm, which I'm trying to get, but still need end links.

All this because Rolex saw fit to have 4 non removable links both sides. The new bracelets for the ceramics, have only 3 fixed links, so don't have this issue and so can also be used.

A bit more research took me to TRF, where people are having one of the fixed links removed and the next link being re-profiled to taper more so as to meet the replaceable link.

Maybe I'll just sell it :BangHead:

That's really frustrating. I'd sell it and get a newer model with a bracelet that can be adjusted.

I have ordered some different 'Rolex' end links from the US. Lets see if they fit. I am also looking for genuine Rolex folded links, but there appear to be several different types. Does anyone with a 1990-2000 GMT with an oyster have the number stamped on the underside of the links please?

I have also been trying to contact the guy with the 'Tudor' Tiger bracelets, but ebay now removes email address from any messages sent.

Reversing the bracelet won't do anything other than move the problem to the other side.

Have you thought about a bracelet without a fliplock clasp (assuming that you don't need to dive in it)? I have a Tudor sub on such a (Tudor) bracelet, have similar size wrists, and don't have this problem.

Thanks, I hadn't thought about a genuine Tudor bracelet. It gives me more options.
My research though did tell me that the end links may be different, but I thought Tudor and Rolex used the same cases, so that's confusing.

I have a 16610LV and even though I have large wrists it either wears too loose or too tight. I've tried everything, even turning the clasp round and all to no avail. Too tight isn't an option so it always flops around a little, and I can't get on with Nato's. So it's not just the smaller wristed with this type of issue!!

Probably the same issue here. When I bought my 14060m, I had the AD remove one of the fixed links from the 6 o'clock side of the bracelet.

It was a 1 minute job. Removing the fixed link is permanent. The bracelet fits well now. The thing is, maybe I shouldn't have broken the fixed link, because I've had the Sub on NATOs since I walked out of the AD.


:cool-new:

I've had a couple of go's at getting my Sub to sit right on my small 6.25 wrists and have nailed it. I do have the newer Ceramic Sub though. I think you'll need to source one of the smaller links to replace one of the big one from your pic

I think the new ceramics have an extra removable link over the older watch bracelets. It's a shame, as especially with the hollow centre links, it cheapens the watch.

I had 2 more 'Rolex' end links from the US. Fitted great, but the central gap for the link to fit is too small. I have another pair of supposedly exact copies of the 501 end links also on the way. Found this useful reference to Rolex bracelets and end links -

http://www.watch-collector.co.uk/Rol...ink_Codes.html

While bored, I found that the bracelet from a Citizen NY0040 is an almost perfect fit. It just needs the end links squashing a bit. So I may end up with a Citizen bracelet with the 501 links as a temporary fix.

This is the 'Tudor' Tiger bracelet I like and am trying to get - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mm-SS-Br...p2047675.l2557

I've yet to look at the fliplockless bracelets though.

On a, er happier note, the cyclops 'accidentally' fell off :biggrin:

I choose to remove the permanent link. It's the cheapest and best way to deal with the issue if you intend to keep the watch. Some people flip the bracelet, which helps, but I wouldn't do it - too strange having the clasp open backwards. Your other option would be to buy the very expensive upgraded clasp. It doesn't require the extra fixed link. Also, the SD 16600 has the same longer fixed link on the clasp as the GMT2 16710.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SlimJim16v

... but ebay now removes email address from any messages sent.
.

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If you're creative you can get around it. For instance

your
dot
name
aaat
geeee mail
dot
com

should get through the filter.

I did contact Raffles and he promised me the Tudor Tiger bracelet would be back in stock. Still nothing on ebay or his website.

I did get more end links that fit OK, but only with 1.8mm spring bars and not with the bracelet I have. The end links and last links on the bracelet are too colse together and bind.

I have ordered another bracelet from Tung Choy, an oyster replacement without tapering links, either width or thickness, but with straight end links though. The end links are screw fit though, so just need to be replaced with a suitable last centre link. It looks remarkably similar to Raffles bracelet, but with different end links.

http://www.tungchoywatch.com/product...oducts_id/2668

I have also bought what looks like a quality Rolex replacement bracelet for the fat spring bars, just for the end centre links. Will need to be pulled apart to get them off though. I can also try it as is first, probably better than the genuine Rolex bracelets, although still has the same number of fixed and screwed links, but solid, not hollow.

Thanks for all your suggestions so far. If/when I get an acceptable result, I'll add photos.

OK, both the bracelets I ordered arrived.

First the straight 20mm Rolexish one. Lovely bracelet, still binds on the repro end links, but sized it and tried it. It is too big and overpowers the 16710. It needs a more substantial watch and with the straight end links and 2.5mm spring bars, should be great on a big Seiko.

Next the Rolex copy (no Rolex branding). Had the wrong end links, but I had 501s. Still binding, attacked the end links with a needle file, much better, but still enough binding for it not to work. Reasonable quality bracelet, solid links, but sides not polished.

It looks like the only possible option for me, is genuine Rolex end links :BangHead:

Oh, I did improve the fit on my wrist, by putting more curve into the 2 inner parts of the clasp.

Does anyone know if this problem exists on the previous gen (16570) explorer ii's? I'm assuming it does given its the same bracelet?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SlimJim16v

I have ordered some different 'Rolex' end links from the US. Lets see if they fit. I am also looking for genuine Rolex folded links, but there appear to be several different types. Does anyone with a 1990-2000 GMT with an oyster have the number stamped on the underside of the links please?

I have also been trying to contact the guy with the 'Tudor' Tiger bracelets, but ebay now removes email address from any messages sent.

Reversing the bracelet won't do anything other than move the problem to the other side.

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My GMT from 1998 has. 502B stamped on the end link.

I think you mean 501B? I have found that 501, 501B and 580 end links look like they should do the job. I found some 580s, but not paying £150 for used ones.

If the Explorer II has the same bracelet, then it will suffer the same problem.

My short time wearing my GMT on a new, solid link copy of the bracelet, has shown me that this issue is exacerbated by any bracelet 'stretch'.