Many thanks for sharing this and chapeau to you for making it happen! If you ever consider building an Axis in 38mm, I'd be all over it.
Cheers,
Christian
As a long-standing member of this forum, I thought I'd share with you a new watch I have made, called 'Atom.' and provide some background information on myself to newer members. ( Eddie permitted me to do this - Many thanks!).
First, some background on myself...
For those who don't know me, I've been a member of this forum since 2008, being at the time an avid collector - of mostly Panerai, Bell&Ross, and Bremont and some others. As I am a professional designer ( I owned a digital agency in Henley) My passion for mechanical watches lead me to work independently with Bell&Ross in Paris and later with Bremont who are just down the road.
With Bremont I shot the majority of photos which they used officially for two years ( From P-51 to Codebreaker) produced some digital work and set up and ran the 'Alt1tude' forum. It was via the forum that we created an LE watch, I worked with their designer which I then retailed to the forum members ( It practically sold out in 24 hours).
Like many people, I'd always dreamed of making my own watch, but it was working on the LE for Bremont that was the catalyst for me deciding to start making something for myself.
During mid-2013, I started to work on a single watch (Axis) which I designed over the course of 2-3 weeks, then got a small run into production, using two manufacturers I had sourced ( dial-maker, case maker - who also supplied crown and hands). The startings were very small and mostly funded by myself and a watch friend. I named the company 'Pinion' as I didn't want my name, but something connected with mechanical watches and designed the branding that would be used on all timepieces.
During the Summer of 2013, a proposed change in the direction of the agency ( I co-founded with two school friends) resulted in me making the decision to exit the company, providing me with some funds to put into my new venture. It was around this time I also separated any connection with Bremont, handing over the control of the forum for them. This was hard, as I really enjoyed working with them, but I knew it would cause a conflict of interest if I was also doing my own stuff.
I launched at SalonQP in 2013 (approx 6 months after starting the project) with three Axis watches which were received well, although I received a lot of backlash via blog comments and forum folk "It'll never work... will go bust in a year etc etc" but carried on regardless and managed to sell most of the short run of watches reasonably quickly over the course of 12-18 months.
(Axis Steel)
While doing this, I still contracted independently as a digital consultant, meaning that the majority of income generated by watch sales went back into more manufacturing and movement stock.
In 2014, I followed up the Axis with hand-wound models, Pure (Unitas 6498) and the Revival 1969 - which contained new-old-stock Valjoux 7734 movements. After that, I made an upgraded follow-up with the Axis II and more variations added to the Pure line over 2015.
(Pure steel and Bronze)
(Revival 1969 )
(Pure GG)
(Axis II SL)
(Axis II SL - decorated rotor)
Onto present day. So, currently my watches start at around £2,000 - I always wanted to produce a more affordable watch that would attract a new base of customers, so designed and developed the Atom.
(Atom)
Unlike the rest of the range, the Atom uses a Miyota 9015 automatic movement which I'm pretty impressed by the quality of build and beautiful winding - despite not being Swiss ETA the accessibility and price of these movements make it a great lower cost alternative. It's been incredibly tough, but with some tricks and techniques, I managed to get manufacturing costs down to enable me to come in at around £650 plus VAT for the price.
The rest of my watches are 42-43mm in size, with the Atom - I went with 41mm, 11mm height which works nicely. What I've done with all of my collection, is to produce a continuity in design, so the graphic language is present in every watch. For the first time, I used Guilloche for the centre circle which is slightly raised providing some texture.
Nowadays, I use four manufacturers who are Swiss or German based ( case, dials, crowns, hands ) and I only produce small quantities of parts ( between 50 and 100 at a time ) meaning manufacture costs more per unit, but it is a quality and authenticity I am satisfied with. Small details like manufacturing a unqiue crown and printing your date wheel / rotors add to the cost, but it's those kind details that I want to input into my models. I'm sure if I was doing 500+ models via a Chinese manufacturer and assembling / importing in Switzerland I could reduce the costs, but that isn't something I want to do.
(Atom crown)
All assembly/testing work is undertaken in the UK - and the Atom is water resistant to 100M. My straps are made by hand by an artisan strap maker, and any case finishing or coating is done here as well.
To make the atom different from the rest of the collection, I blasted the cases, which provides a unique look from the others, but it still retains some DNA in overall design of the watch.
My ethos with Pinion is to provide an honest and direct approach to the brand. No elaborate backstory or 'bought' heritage - which probably makes it less interesting to some but ultimately this makes it less of a draw for press who always like a story to write about.
I strive to make the design of the watches reference previous models, whilst introducing subtle new touches. With this evolving design and that Pinion will be five next year, I feel that it's staring to make it's own history.
I tend to try and avoid the whole 'English watchmaking' subject; I don't like cliché 'Britishness' however I realise that to attract customers, being a British watch company is something people seek out.
I also tend to avoid typical watch related tie-ins, especially sports-related sponsorship ( I couldn't afford it anyway - so instead, have started looking at Film and TV: Pinion is worn by the lead cast in TV series TAKEN and will be worn by a character in upcoming BBC show 'McMafia' as well as in feature film 'Nasty Women' which is currently in production.
Currently, I'm still doing contract design work so only focus on Pinion part-time. All the actual design / 3D / dial artwork, photography, website, marketing and selling are done by myself, resulting in many long days and weekends, fitting in alongside consultancy work.
I'm also following up the Atom early next year with a Titanium cased GMT ( rendering below). My plan is to produce both higher and lower cost watches as I move forward.
(Pinion TT - Titanium GMT rendering)
Hope you enjoyed reading my post, thanks again to Eddie for letting me share with you. Doing this is the most challenging project I've ever focused on, but it does allow me to indulge in my passion for watches more than I ever expected!
Piers
https://pinionwatches.com
Last edited by PIERS (UK); 21st October 2017 at 09:30.
Many thanks for sharing this and chapeau to you for making it happen! If you ever consider building an Axis in 38mm, I'd be all over it.
Cheers,
Christian
Piers,
I've always admired your watches and keep a close eye on the facebook page.
The Atom looks great.
The Atom looks superb. The nicest looking Pinion watch so far, in my view.
Good choice to use the 9015 to cut costs too. I have a few watches using that movement and I really like it. As you say, the winding is smooth and as for the "frantic" rotor movement with some implementations, well, I actually like it!
Keep us updated please Piers. I may become a customer for the Atom in due course.
Ian
Nice write up, love the Atom.
Hey Piers! thanks for this post! it was a pleasure meeting you a while back and handling the watches in person. The build quality is solid and legibility was awesome. I only wish it was a tad smaller
in diameter but then again i’m just a skinny asian guy so probably not a good
benchmark! Still
41mm is a good
choice!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Piers,
Congratulations on the Atom. I am a big Pinion watches fan. I still enjoy my Axis II with the one-off polished case and black date wheel.
cheers,
Tom.
Last edited by tom waring; 20th October 2017 at 15:08.
Hi guys thanks for the kind comments.
Re: 38mm - I have a smaller watch ( poss. 36-38mm ) planned, this will have a vintage ETA 2451 ( handwound with date display movement ) which will be an addition of approx. 100 pieces.
Regards, Piers
Fantastic thread and lovely watches, especially the upcoming gmt. Actually... A of them!
I have to tip my hat to you – they look top drawer. And I'd normally prefer the Atom in a sub 40mm case but as a modern pilot-style watch, I think 41mm works. I'm off to have a look-see
My only criticism, and it's a particular bug bear of mine, is date window position. 4.30 has always annoyed me and yet so many manufacturers persist with it. It's a personal preference but has ensured a lot of watches haven't graced the collection.
Still, I love the Pure GG
Damn - another bronze watch which is very tempting ! - though le or pro dials - black or green!!
cheers
matt
Really like the look of the Axis.
Personally, I'm not a fan of the Miyota movement's
Very impressed overall though, and wish you every success!
It's just a matter of time...
I was only thinking the other day, not for the first time, when reading the Pinion Atom availability email. “I wonder if Piers is the chap that used to be a member on TZUK?”. Here you are!
The Atom looks fantastic and I am pleased to have the case size a little smaller.
Best of luck with your latest release and the forthcoming GMT project. I hope to be in a position to own an Atom in the near future.
Dave
Last edited by dforgrieve; 21st October 2017 at 04:38.
Great looking watch Piers. I fell in love with the Axis having seen Tom Waring's watch on here. I still fully intend to buy one as soon as I can.
I'm not famous but could wear one for you and tell everyone how nice it is
Well done Piers. I love the revival 1969
Sent from my SM-T825Y using Tapatalk
Well done to you piers, bloody good job. I personally love the 6497/8 movements, such a good workhorse.
very best of luck with your endeavours.
mike
Nice article Piers, just wanted to add you even slogged it down to Swindon for me and some work colleagues to understand a bit more of your work! Very much appreciated!
Nice watches and good luck with future watch productions
Sent from my Moto G (4) using TZ-UK mobile app
A great story, very attractive watches and great photography.
Hope you go from strength to strength.
Al
Never heard of you before reading this thread but I be looking out for your watches in future, they're lovely. Really interested in the GMT, it's exactly what I'm looking for.
Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app
Hi Piers,
That's a fabulous story, and has certainly sparked my interest - I'll make sure to watch out for the Atom, and shall be subscribing to your newsletter.
Good luck with the development and growth of the brand and the company.
Congrats on a fine job I'd say.
Lovely watch and that Miyota is as solid as they come for every day life, and if you really wear your watches that's an important fact.
Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!
I think you've done some nice work there. The Atom looks like a good addition.
What's the lug to lug length on the Atom?
Dave E
Skating away on the thin ice of a new day
Nice! I might in due course become a customer...
Do you have a website?
Just google pinion watches...
my order is in - custom axis on the way !
cheers
matt
Very impressive range, you have done a fantastic job.
I really like the Steel Pure.
Yeah - i could not resist !
re the straps - the current models are 22mm, i assume the new smaller atom is 20mm
cheers
matt
I am really impressed from your work and attention to detail!
I love the revival!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the extra info there, Piers. That does look like a very nice watch! Hmmmm...
Dave E
Skating away on the thin ice of a new day
Thanks Piers for a very interesting read.
I wish you all the best with your new venture.
On another subject are you able to personalise a watch?
Another member who had heard of you. Interesting read, really like the look of the Axel II SL
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like that (except for the placement of the date window).
Best of luck with your venture!
Raffe
Really impressed by these, particularly the Revival. Probably too rich for me at the moment but I'd love to see pictures if anyone on the forum has one!
The Pure GG looks fantastic to my eyes. Only worry is 42mm and all dial will probably wear a little too big for me but nice to have a hand winder in the collection. The design simplicity is great though as is the obvious theme running through them all but with enough to differentiate the models. Liking the product placement idea too as it's fun to watch spot (but obviously that's a loner sport!).
Good luck Pinion...
Last edited by deepreddave; 6th January 2018 at 13:07.
Arghhhhhhh.....Beautiful watches ruined by the date at 4 o'clock.....IMVHO
I absolutely hate 4 o'clock dates.
Whereas I much prefer a date window that doesn’t upset the symmetry of the dial - so they look great to me.
It's just a matter of time...
I like them from what I can see.
While I understand what you're saying - the date watches just exasperate the 'small movement' syndrome. I do like the non date Pure watches, and the date windows at 6 aren't too bad.
Designing watches is hard work, so anyone going ahead with such an adventure I only salute!