Movado Automatic guidance

[noidea]

A good friend of mine has just received his dad's watch after he recently passed away. He can always remember his dad wearing this watch when he was a child and as he grew up. It was 'dads watch' and the only one he ever owned. His dad was not known to throw his money around so it certainly wasn't really expensive but he would like to know more about the watch. Particularly its age, any history behind the brand and maybe what his dad would have had to pay for it.

My friend would like to pass this onto his 12 year old son but would like to be able to tell him something about it.

I have taken a few pictures and would welcome any input or indeed a source of more information. I have had a search and found various similar watches but not this particular model.

It measures about 35mm and is about 12mm thick and has 16mm lugs. It has a lovely domed plexi. I thought as my best guess it was from the 1950/60s. Obviously not the original bracelet. I did suggest putting it on a nice black leather strap as I thought it would suit it perfectly.

Anyway here are some pictures.


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[JackW]

That's an absolutely lovely watch, and it certainly was't a cheap watch when your friend's dad bought it.

It's almost impossible to date Movados to an exact year, but the reference and serial numbers contain some information about the watch. The '1' in the 5 digit reference number indicates a steel case. It's a rather nice one as well: an FB, or Borgel case, a well-known manufacturer with a very interesting history. This exact case reference was used by Movado in their ads; they tied it to a ship's hull and sailed it across the Atlantic to prove its water resistance.

The other 4 digits contain information about the movement used. In this case it's a 220 series in-house caliber. Given that it has a date corrector it should be a cal 224. This number should be visible underneath the balance wheel. This movement had a short production run, so it dates the watch to circa 1952-1954.

It's interesting that the movement is numbered. This was usually only done on chronometers. In order to be tested at an observatory these had to have a unique ID number.

Movado has a long and interesting history. I wrote about it here: https://www.horlogeforum.nl/t/vintag...oductie/323178 It's in Dutch, but maybe you can use Google Translate.

One of my Movados has the same case style:



And here's the ad I mentioned:



Hope this helps.

[noidea]

Thank you for that information, that has really helped. I will pass that on.

The watch does look fairly original, but I am by no means any sort of expert.

You mention in your piece that it may well have radium dials, interestingly my friends father was a scientist and was exposed to most of the radioactive isotopes known. The fact he lived to his eighties was probably remarkable in itself, unfortunately it was dementia that bought his life to an end.

It has some 'love marks' on the movement screws so it has had some attention over the years. Also there what appears to be a few hand engravings on the inside of the case back, would these be from previous servicing?

[JackW]

Thank you for that information, that has really helped. I will pass that on.

The watch does look fairly original, but I am by no means any sort of expert.

I'd say that watch is 100% original.

You mention in your piece that it may well have radium dials, interestingly my friends father was a scientist and was exposed to most of the radioactive isotopes known. The fact he lived to his eighties was probably remarkable in itself, unfortunately it was dementia that bought his life to an end.

Goes to show how little was known about the hazards of radioactive materials. This watch obviously has no lume, so no health hazard.

It has some 'love marks' on the movement screws so it has had some attention over the years. Also there what appears to be a few hand engravings on the inside of the case back, would these be from previous servicing?

They probably are, but if your friend doesn't know the service history it's always a good idea to have it looked at.

[noidea]

Thanks again for your input.

I appreciate you are not in the UK but do you have any recommendations for someone to service it?

[JackW]

That's best answered by one of the UK based members, as my experience with watchmakers in the UK is very limited.

[Carlton-Browne]

Here's a link to some data on the movement (and will give some info on the other variants).

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-...swk&Movado_224

I'd be curious to know if there is any play when you manipulate the crown - it looks like there is a case clamp screw missing. It's an easy thing for a watchmaker to replace.

[abraxas]

This early system of automatic winding is called "bumper" as the rotor doesn't go all the way round but bumps against springs. On one side the spring looks ok but on the other side either the spring broke or something else is happening. Try not to wear it as the weight of the rotor will unnecessarily be shaking the movement. There is a bit of the spring left but get it seen.

[noidea]

Here's a link to some data on the movement (and will give some info on the other variants).

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-...swk&Movado_224

I'd be curious to know if there is any play when you manipulate the crown - it looks like there is a case clamp screw missing. It's an easy thing for a watchmaker to replace.

I didn't notice any play but the crown tube did unscrew when I hand wound it in the opposite direction. I will double check next time I get to see it.
Thanks for the movement information.
It certainly needs a full service.
Are there any recommendations for someone to service it. It seems a relatively straightforward movement.

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[noidea]

This early system of automatic winding is called "bumper" as the rotor doesn't go all the way round but bumps against springs. On one side the spring looks ok but on the other side either the spring broke or something else is happening. Try not to wear it as the weight of the rotor will unnecessarily be shaking the movement. There is a bit of the spring left but get it seen.

I did spot that with the springs. Not something I had seen before, thanks.

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