Reply With QuoteBrilliant stuff. They look tremendous, well done. I wouldn't know where to start with something like this.
Back in February, I finally collected all the parts to build myself two new-old-stock Omega f300 Speedsonics... and a few days ago, I finally finished building them (it's not really taken 6 months --- much of my time has been taken up with elderly parents).
The first set of photos shows the two cases (188.0002) that I used. The other case (188.0001) in the first photo (top right) is a Speedsonic Lobster case but I lack the lobster bracelet and a mirror dial for this one, so sadly it will remain unused for the time being:
Sharp eyed Speedsonic owners might notice that the wording and font orientation on the black tacky ring is different from normal Speedsonics. It is a bit of mystery, but there are other NOS Speedsonic cases that have this style of tacky ring although I've never seen a finished watch with one. So maybe Omega decided not to use this arrangement when the Speedsonic went on the market. The crystal does lack the Omega symbol in the centre, so maybe it's a Baume and Mercier one (see below).
Interestingly, the Baume and Mercier Tronosonic Chronograph (their version of the Speedsonic!) does use this black tacky ring and the crystals + tacky ring are interchangeable with the Omega case. In fact, the B&M and Omega cases also share the same pusher assemblies --- I know because I've had a repair a B&M by using Omega new case parts.
That took care of the cases (including crystals, tachy rings, pushers, stems and crowns) plus the dials and hands. But the movements were the problem area...
Omega calibre 1255, as used in the Speedsonics, is impossible to find. You occasionally see beaten up, corroded ones on eBay selling for silly prices. However, the 1255 is actually an Omega badged ESA 9210 movement and NOS versions of these do sometimes appear.
If it was as easy as popping an ESA 9210 into a Speedsonic case, I wouldn't be writing this topic! Well, actually, it is as easy as that --- the Omega dial would fit perfectly, as would the hands, and everything would work as Omega intended. But it wouldn't be right!
Here is the reason:
In the above photo, the movements on the left and middle are NOS ESA 9210 while the movement on the right is Omega 1255. Besides the day wheels, notice any difference? Yep, the Omega version has red gold plated plates while the ESA plates are nickel coloured --- this is the only difference between them and all parts are interchangeable because ESA made all three movements!
But I wouldn't be happy building 2 NOS Omega Speedsonics and then using these nickel coloured movements in them. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night even though they'd be working perfectly. At every battery change, I'd feel sick seeing the wrong coloured movement in my watch!
Since 1255 movements are impossible to find, the only solution was to swop all the nickel coloured plates in these ESA NOS movements with NOS Omega parts. Sounds easy but the ESA 9210 / Omega 1255 movement has an awful lot of plates....plus it involved opening up the chrono module.
I've had the NOS cases for some time, but I finally got hold of 3 examples of each of the 6 red gold plated Omega movement plates for cal. 1255, as shown above. I bought 3 of each in the hope that one day the lobster case will be used.....
And a more detailed photo of each plate:
Omega 1255 9052 Calendar Plate:
Omega 1255 9053 Chronograph Plate:
Omega 1255 9054 Date Indicator Guard:
Omega 1255 9050 Mechanism Plate:
Omega 1255 9055 Day Indicator Guard:
Omega 1255 9001 Upper Plate:
The situation with this last plate was a little different. I could have chosen to use one of the many Omega f300 Top Plates (cal 1250 and 1260) that I already had since the Speedsonic cal 1255 top plate is identical. However, this plate carries the Omega badge, Omega calibre number and movement serial number, so I opted to pay extra to get hold of these genuine 1255 plates complete with the 1255 badge. Interesting that the serial number starts with an "R" and is not in the normal Omega movement serial number range --- I'm assuming "R" means "replacement" or some thing similar.
For those not in the know, my diagram of part of the internals of the chrono module as developed by Dubois-Depraz for ESA. The chrono module rarely goes wrong; most problems arise when it has been opened up by a novice because it can be very difficult to re-assembled if it is done in the wrong order:
And the easily damaged (and expensive!) chrono runners. Minute and hour sub-dial runners at the top and the main second hand chrono runner at the bottom:
The two Omega 1255 movements finished in July: all those nickelled plates from the ESA 9210 movements have been replaced with the Omega version:
August 2015: Finished at last...and pleased with the end results.
Brilliant stuff. They look tremendous, well done. I wouldn't know where to start with something like this.
That's some project, and some end result. I'm sure that I would end up with a few bits left over if I attempted anything like that. Very well done, and thanks for the detailed write-up.
Great job, a lovely project to see to completion, and I love your dedication to getting it "right". Not just working right, but being right.
Great job.
I am interested. The tachy rings in the first photos are blue and black. I thought the black might have been for the slate dialled one. But both blue at the end. And the two blues look to be slightly different. Are they?
Dave
Dave,
I decided not to use the non-Omega crystal + black tacky ring in the empty case photos at the top --- I think this crystal is for the B&M Tronosonic Chrono and no idea how it ended up in a Omega case...although many parts, including the pushers, crystal diameter, are identical.
So both cases ended up with the blue tacky ring...any difference in the photos is due to angle of reflection from these rings.
Paul
Originally Posted by sweets
Nice write-up, great patience and attention to detail, superb end result(s)
Wow, I'd love to be able to get this stuck in, think I'll limit myself to the odd strap change now & then!
Very well done! They look lovely, you should be very proud of the end result. Brilliant!
Fabulous work and I really like the finished watches you have there.
I think if people are prepared to take a little bit of a risk to do a bit of work on their watches, within their capabilities, then they would get much more satisfaction from watches as a hobby/interest.
It just takes a bit of nerve to start to attempt stuff.
Mitch
Stunning!
I really like the Speedsonic, especially in blue - One day
M
Great job Paul.....
Those are two great looking watches, amazing work Paul.
Excellent work, they both look fantastic! But if I had to choose it would be the one with the raised hour markers.
Nice work; I'd pick the right hand one if forced ...
Great work, Paul! And thanks a lot for taking the time to type it all up. I really enjoy these type of posts. I know you know your stuff, as the Bulova you serviced for me has been running superbly ever since I got it back.
Lovely job, great attention to detail and stunning end results.
Very nice documentation of the process. Cheers for taking the time to post.
A fabulous post!
Thanks for putting it together. They both look great but I think the one without the raised markers is my favourite. You must be delighted with the end result.
jeff
Great work and an excellent post. They have turned out so well.
Did you need to do any case refinishing or was that as they came, NOS?
No case refinishing....just the original Omega finish.
Beautiful watches and great thread......
That looks fantastic, well done Paul. I would have simply no idea where to start. The end result is simply stunning.
Fantastic write up!
Blimey! I want one of those.
Looking good Paul,.........which one is for me?
mike
Fine !!! :)
Interesting read - well done
regards
Terje
Posting Permissions
