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Thread: Seeking help with a Panerai purchase.

  1. #1

    Seeking help with a Panerai purchase.

    I’m going to celebrate the closing of the financial battle with my mad ex with a new watch purchase and I have my sights set on a Panerai. I might also now replace my battered Volvo V50 D5, after watching as it was keyed and smashed up in the first couple of years after I ended the relationship. That’s sure to be the topic of another post but the words of the solicitor I sought advice from in 2018 certainly were portentous as he advised I don’t replace my car as it will almost certainly be a target. How right he was.

    I’m mildly bewildered by the range of Panerai available but would like 44mm minimum, on a bracelet and capable of being dressed up or down. Budget is £5k max, putting me in second hand territory which is not an issue.

    Any words of wisdom?

  2. #2
    Grand Master
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    Yes forget the bracelet
    RIAC

  3. #3
    Craftsman jimmbob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    Yes forget the bracelet
    Agreed.

    Do you want a Radiomir, Submersible, Luminor? Mechanical, Auto?
    There's such a huge variety as you say, so it's hard to recommend without knowing what sort of model interests you. Also, Panerai ownership is a very slippery slope, just so you know. ;)

    Here's mine...


  4. #4
    Master
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    I am a long time Paneristi, and I wouldn't be so quick to discount the bracelet. I recently tried on a PAM91 and the bracelet was an impressive piece of engineering. My "one that I should have bought at the time" was a PAM297 in Dublin, still deeply regret that one. Also, a bracelet may be removed and a strap fitted if so desired.
    I would advise visiting an AD and trying on a few models, Radiomir, luminor etc, see what clicks with you.
    But one word of caution. It is a deep and dark rabbit hole, including the strap side tunnels.
    Enjoy the journey.

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  5. #5
    Master
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    I recently bought mine from Goldsmiths ,a few in the sale.

  6. #6
    Master
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    As Jimmbob mentions above there is so much variety and a foray into Panerai ownership is whole new rabbit hole.

    I have personally never had a bracelet model as I enjoy changing straps and I can always find a different strap to suit/change the watches appearance.

    The bracelet option will limit your options regarding case style (that may be a good or bad thing regarding your search), take a look on the Panerai site and the Panerai appreciation thread here and see which style appeals.
    You could pick up a new Luminor or Radiomir on a strap for your budget.

    I've had a few over the years but my current 112 is possibly my favourite of all.

    Good luck in the new chapter of your life and your Panerai quest

    Last edited by Tuna1138; 29th September 2023 at 12:39. Reason: pic added

  7. #7
    Grand Master Carlton-Browne's Avatar
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    Forget the bracelet, forget automatic and make sure it's got a Unitas movement so that you are not a hostage to their service department (I do not speak from experience).
    In the Sotadic Zone, apparently.

  8. #8

    Seeking help with a Panerai purchase.

    I am a total Rolex fan boy, but recently picked-up a pre-owned PAM0537 in a private sale for within your budget. I absolutely love it and at 42mm it fits my 6.75 inch wrist very well and has received more positive comments than any other watch I have owned over the years…..and there have been many. There are plenty of different models out there so hope you find something that sings to you.


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  9. #9
    Having owned a 91 and a 329,don’t listen to the negative bracelet comments,it’s like having 2 watches once you change to a strap.
    The only negative for me is there is no micro adjustment.


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  10. #10
    Master
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    You said dress up or dress down… which to me immediately suggests a Radiomir.

  11. #11
    Master
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    Panerai 000, 005, 111, 112, 104 and possibly 312 should fit in or under your budget. I myself don't care for the busier dials of some others.

  12. #12
    Master
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    Work out what is important to you. Luminor, submersible or radiomir. Sausage or sandwich, auto or manual. Diameter 47, 44 or don’t bother imho. GMT, seconds, sub seconds, gmt, second reset, movement, power reserve, reserve indicator, case material, the list is endless.
    As others say, forget the bracelet and have a strap budget at least 5x what you initially expect.
    Personally I wanted a 300m, auto, sandwich dial with sub seconds ds and power reserve. GMT was a bonus when the PAM 321 ticked all the boxes.
    There are hundreds of variants out there take your time, make a list and enjoy the journey.

  13. #13
    Master helidoc's Avatar
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    Seeking help with a Panerai purchase.

    As has been said, it’s slippery slope. I started with one just to get it out of my system, and now have three.

    I think the older stuff is more interesting and is actually pretty good value as values have been flat for a decade. A good starting point would be either a 44mm Luminor or 45mm Radiomir, manual wind. I prefer the simplicity of the base models with no running seconds, but it’s a personal choice.

    Strap changes are definitely easier on a Luminor and the crown protector is both iconic, and saves worrying about wear on a screw down crown. The 44mm Bettarini Luminor case is a bit simplistic compared with the more sculptured Rad case. The 1950s Luminor cases are interesting, but the manual winders are 47mm and the 44mm are largely automatic. Sandwich dials are quite a Panerai thing, but maybe less so for the Bettarini case as 2006 was the first time it had a sandwich dial.

    To my surprise, my favourite is my 210, a base Radiomir, even with its screw down crown / manual wind combo and slightly fiddly strap change system.

    My Pamily, 000, 210, 25



    Dave


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    Last edited by helidoc; 30th September 2023 at 11:01.

  14. #14
    Grand Master ryanb741's Avatar
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    Pre owned there are lots of bargains currently

    I'd be all over this

    https://subdial.com/listing/panerai/...iginal-box/401

    Or this

    https://subdial.com/listing/panerai/...and-papers/272

  15. #15
    Grand Master
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    I know its bias but my PAM98 is a lovely choice
    RIAC

  16. #16
    Craftsman
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    don't mean to hijack but anyone know if there is a model which is basically a 111 with metal hands or a 1084 with sandwich dial?

    so luminor marina, 44mm, black dial, sub dial at 9, sandwich dial, metal hands.....?

  17. #17
    Master helidoc's Avatar
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    If I was looking at pre-owned from a dealer, I would keep at eye on Will Wiseman’s stock

    https://www.wisemanswatches.com/stock

    I’m did ask him to source my Luminor and Rad, although ultimately SC and a heads up from a TZer to a watch Chrono24 came up trumps first.

    D


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  18. #18
    Master numberjack's Avatar
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    Don’t get the bracelet negativity


  19. #19
    Master
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    I wouldn’t have a 47mm, it’s completely personal but I’ve always felt they’re really too large. I understand there’s heritage but they are enormous.

    The bracelets look well made but there are so many other strap options I understand why members are saying it’s not necessary.

    I’ve always fancied a 233, it might be slightly high but a gorgeous watch.

  20. #20
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by xanx View Post
    don't mean to hijack but anyone know if there is a model which is basically a 111 with metal hands or a 1084 with sandwich dial?

    so luminor marina, 44mm, black dial, sub dial at 9, sandwich dial, metal hands.....?
    The 1950s cased 312 springs to mind

  21. #21
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuna1138 View Post
    The 1950s cased 312 springs to mind
    VERY close but sorry should have said looking for a no date.... so basically a 312 with no date, or a 111 with metal hands, or 1084 but with a sandwich dial....

  22. #22
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by xanx View Post
    VERY close but sorry should have said looking for a no date.... so basically a 312 with no date, or a 111 with metal hands, or 1084 but with a sandwich dial....
    510? not sure about the 'metal hands' though

  23. #23
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Seeking help with a Panerai purchase.

    I would recommend a 47mm Radiomir. Wears smaller than the size suggests as the lugs are virtually nonexistent and wears very flat on the wrist. My 425 SLC apologies for the dust.

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by xanx View Post
    VERY close but sorry should have said looking for a no date.... so basically a 312 with no date, or a 111 with metal hands, or 1084 but with a sandwich dial....
    Nothing out their unfortunately unless you go 1950s case on the 47mm 472 I think it is. Unless you can retro for some hands from another model.


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  25. #25
    Master Andyp1973's Avatar
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    I’m assuming you mean 372?

    Don’t be put off by 47mm. Due to the case designs they don’t wear much bigger than the 44mm references. I’ve had both and currently only have 47mm references.

    If you go 44mm you can’t go too far wrong with the 915 currently on the sales corner.


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  26. #26
    Master Andyp1973's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lammylee View Post
    I would recommend a 47mm Radiomir. Wears smaller than the size suggests as the lugs are virtually nonexistent and wears very flat on the wrist. My 425 SLC apologies for the dust.
    Looking good Lee.


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  27. #27
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Don't forget the 1940 models, which are effectively a third category (albeit lumped together with the Radiomirs). My 512, for example...


  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Andyp1973 View Post
    I’m assuming you mean 372?

    Don’t be put off by 47mm. Due to the case designs they don’t wear much bigger than the 44mm references. I’ve had both and currently only have 47mm references.

    If you go 44mm you can’t go too far wrong with the 915 currently on the sales corner.


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    Nope meant 422 or 477. The sub seconds version of the 372.

    Personally 44mm is my maximum sized tries the 47mm on and they are large. Unless you have huge wrists stick to 44mm


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  29. #29
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyp1973 View Post
    Looking good Lee.


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    Thanks Andy still feels special every time I wear it

  30. #30
    Thanks for the replies chaps. I’m firmly resolved to go for a Luminor as my Precista currently fills a Radiomir slot. I say currently knowing full well the slippery slope will lead to my looking at the Radiomir versions more closely in the future. I’m also firmly resolved to buy something on a bracelet or something that will take a bracelet as that will make sure it is worn more often. I’d prefer hand-wound but have only seen automatic versions so far. I do take the point that the bracelet doesn’t have micro-adjustment so will try some on to double check fit.

  31. #31
    Master Andyp1973's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McBeardy View Post
    Nope meant 422 or 477. The sub seconds version of the 372.

    Personally 44mm is my maximum sized tries the 47mm on and they are large. Unless you have huge wrists stick to 44mm


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    I have a 422. Due to the flat case back and 1950’s case it doesn’t wear any bigger than the 590 I had for a few years.






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  32. #32
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmarchitect View Post
    Thanks for the replies chaps. I’m firmly resolved to go for a Luminor as my Precista currently fills a Radiomir slot. I say currently knowing full well the slippery slope will lead to my looking at the Radiomir versions more closely in the future. I’m also firmly resolved to buy something on a bracelet or something that will take a bracelet as that will make sure it is worn more often. I’d prefer hand-wound but have only seen automatic versions so far. I do take the point that the bracelet doesn’t have micro-adjustment so will try some on to double check fit.
    In that case, I’d be hunting down a 233 dot dial. All time classic.

  33. #33
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    In that case, I’d be hunting down a 233 dot dial. All time classic.
    Preferably one that’s been serviced since 2011
    RIAC

  34. #34
    Master
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    A 44mm case luminor is a great place to start, but don't ignore the 47mm 1940 cases, wear smaller than the Luminors.

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  35. #35
    Master
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    352 removed from bracelet Automatic



    779 8 Day Manual



    355 Automatic



    176 Luminor Titanium Manual Wind



    270 Automatic



    389 Submersible 47mm



    219 Destro Manual Wind



    372 47mm Manual Wind



    00000 Base Logo Manual Wind



    111 manual wind



    Personally, if it was me I’d be looking at a Luminor 44mm manual wind in steel or titanium. A great and very versatile entry point into Panerai ownership. There’s lots of variety available to consider though.
    Last edited by neebsta; 1st October 2023 at 14:07.

  36. #36
    I’m pretty settled on the Panerai 510, 44mm 8 day hand wound model as it contains the elements I most want. It also helps that there is one on sales corner right now.

    Does anyone know if bracelets are available for that specific model? The Panerai website doesn’t help much beyond referencing 44mm Luminor models.

  37. #37
    I couldn’t really say,if you like it just buy it and then see if you can get a bracelet.
    If not resell it and if the price is right you shouldn’t lose out .


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  38. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by jmarchitect View Post
    I’m pretty settled on the Panerai 510, 44mm 8 day hand wound model as it contains the elements I most want. It also helps that there is one on sales corner right now.

    Does anyone know if bracelets are available for that specific model? The Panerai website doesn’t help much beyond referencing 44mm Luminor models.
    Unfortunately I don’t think there are any OEM bracelets that fit. I had 560 (time only version of the 510) & looked ages for one. I remember seeing someone where one on base zero before but believe the case is ever so slightly different. None of the 1950s Luminor bracelets fit he Bettarini cases (510 etc). There are some aftermarket ones on the web that people do fit, no idea on quality mind you


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