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The left hand edge of the case looks odd to me, like there is a lump where I’d expect the case to have smooth flowing curve. I guess they’ve chosen to mirror the crown guard? Not keen.
Very nice indeed, but damn are they getting expensive. Best part of £10k for this.Originally Posted by 50kopek
Another new Grand Seiko release, SLGH021. I think this is one of the best looking dials they've ever done.
(photos courtesy of Monochrome-watches)
https://monochrome-watches.com/grand...n-specs-price/
The left hand edge of the case looks odd to me, like there is a lump where I’d expect the case to have smooth flowing curve. I guess they’ve chosen to mirror the crown guard? Not keen.
My Tag 2000 has this, as does the Patek Nautilus??
Indeed it does have the crown guard symmetry but I guess I’ve always seen the Nautilus as a very square shape anyway so it hadn’t really registered with me. First time I’ve really noticed that shape.
The Defy Skyline Chronograph is actually only 42mm. It looks like it is 45-47mm on this guy's wrist so much so, even the new Defy Revival Diver at 37mm looks fairly substantial on his wrist.I know size is relative, but this picture shows why I wish the Zenith Defy was a little more wearable. Imagine how nice it would be if they’d designed it to fit your wrist instead of your hand…
https://deployant.com/live-from-wwg2...s-from-zenith/
Last edited by j111dja; 10th April 2024 at 13:45.
Probably a better movement in the Hublot tooNice Hublot tribute, but I prefer the original...
Good point about that 37mm Defy Revival, very slim wrists for sure, not unlike mine! Still, integrated bracelet watches do wear larger, so ‘Only 42mm’ will probably wear like 44mm.
Another new Grand Seiko release, SLGH021. I think this is one of the best looking dials they've ever done.
(photos courtesy of Monochrome-watches)
https://monochrome-watches.com/grand...n-specs-price/
Stunning. However, when I see one of the evolution 9 watches*, I immediately think they're a 36mm watch. The proportions are just off. They badly need to taper those bracelets.... also, on the fly micro adjustment.
*oddly, the GMTs (eg SBGE285) get away with it for some reason.
Funnily enough it’s taken the new white birch hand wound models on leather, SLGW002 and SLGW003 shown earlier in this thread, to really show the potential of this case. Especially when (arguably wisely) reduced to 38.6mm and a fraction under 10mm thick, which is a thinner profile than the autos, even taking account of the smaller case. It looks like a completely different watch. It makes me wonder how the hand wounds would look with a bracelet, as the wide lugs and bracelet is part of those unusual proportions on the others. Something that doesn’t seem to notice on tapering leather.
There’s a video here speculating that we may see other versions in future now they have that smaller case, perhaps in steel instead of titanium, with other dials, and maybe a bracelet.
Wow, that's nice - if a little pricey!Another new Grand Seiko release, SLGH021. I think this is one of the best looking dials they've ever done.
Also, stunning. But why 3ATM water resistance!?! How did that happen? What necessitated that compromise?
It's just bizarre seeing a 37mm watch that looks way bigger, and a 42mm watch that swamps his tiny wrist.
The Revival Chronograph has a fairly thick bezel so I'm guessing that it will wear it's 42mm size. That photograph would put anyone off buying one. If not then the retail price probably will.
If, let’s say Mido, had done this design nobody would have given it any attention. A very generic attempt in launching a new diver.Oh-dear Bremont - I really liked the Supermarine range, though could never justify the price, even used, but it had the virtue of standing out somewhat from the vastly overpopulated diver's watch genre.
Its main problem (Bremont's overall problem IMO) was never quite settling on a consistent design language, plus a certain pervasive 'lumpiness' to those designs.
The new one just screams "ME TOO!!!" - the awkward lump opposite the crown - though beloved of AP and others on toolish watchs - is horrid, and the comedy crown guards that are too small to serve any purpose...
Moving to 904L is just a marketing gimmick ("R*l*x use it!" So what?), I much preferred what they were doing with hardened steel in the past.
Just no.
I wish Bremont well, I actively want them to be successful, but I will be surprised if this new range gains much traction vs. the old.
edit: do rather like the Terra Nova chronos - first time for me liking a Bremont chrono. Comedy prices kill that stone dead mind...
AND ANOTHER THING... cheapskate drinks-tin aluminium bezel insert! Right now Christopher Ward are kicking their arse for 1/5 the price!
Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!
Don’t agree. This is not about a more expensive company than a lower tier ie Mido. Bremont had a recognisable style and very identifiable logo. Now they could easily be mistake for an enthusiastic kickstarter project. All that work, gone to waste.
VC greed and professional hubris are never happy bedfellows.
Can't disagree with any of that, but hey nice Breitling Rouleaux bracelet...Oh-dear Bremont - I really liked the Supermarine range, though could never justify the price, even used, but it had the virtue of standing out somewhat from the vastly overpopulated diver's watch genre.
Its main problem (Bremont's overall problem IMO) was never quite settling on a consistent design language, plus a certain pervasive 'lumpiness' to those designs.
The new one just screams "ME TOO!!!" - the awkward lump opposite the crown - though beloved of AP and others on toolish watchs - is horrid, and the comedy crown guards that are too small to serve any purpose...
Moving to 904L is just a marketing gimmick ("R*l*x use it!" So what?), I much preferred what they were doing with hardened steel in the past.
Just no.
I wish Bremont well, I actively want them to be successful, but I will be surprised if this new range gains much traction vs. the old.
edit: do rather like the Terra Nova chronos - first time for me liking a Bremont chrono. Comedy prices kill that stone dead mind...
AND ANOTHER THING... cheapskate drinks-tin aluminium bezel insert! Right now Christopher Ward are kicking their arse for 1/5 the price!
The Breaking Bad dial.Another new Grand Seiko release, SLGH021. I think this is one of the best looking dials they've ever done.
(photos courtesy of Monochrome-watches)
https://monochrome-watches.com/grand...n-specs-price/
Chinese brand Seagull have also released something similar, that would be my way of testing the waters on this one.
Sent from my SM-A217F using Tapatalk
That ice blue GS dial is gorgeous but bloody HELL I wish they would put a little bit of their dial development into their bracelets.
To be fair that is actually an upgraded bracelet to the older ones, with a new clasp that lies totally flat (it’s a little odd that the old ones didn’t really, but it was always presented as a feature in photos). It also has an unusual wide bracelet design that plays with the proportions. They released a completely new bracelet with the white Omiwatari, though for me it’s too sparkly to choose over leather. There was also a beads of rice bracelet recently, again not for me but they’re not standing still. Some won’t be happy until they get Rolex style microadjustment, but I can’t say I’d prefer a bulky clasp on mine, given the fit and comfort level it has when properly adjusted.
Can't see me ever buying another watch at this point, but if I was in the market then this would be it....
At 37mm they haven't even made it oversized.
That Grand Seiko dial is simply off the charts!
I like it. Always liked the Defy range, except for their Defy ExtremesCan't see me ever buying another watch at this point, but if I was in the market then this would be it....
At 37mm they haven't even made it oversized.
Im finding this an appealing package, and not a huge uplift in price over the standard tricompax.
https://baltic-watches.com/en/produc...%20Auto%202024
Cheers,
Ben
..... for I have become the Jedi of flippers
" an extravagance is anything you buy that is of no earthly use to your wife "
Damn that's a fine looking watch, multi sub dials really not my thing but that's a really handsome'un, appealingly well balanced/ attractive colours.
Very much liking Ollech & Wajs new 7753-powered 'Rallychron' - 39mm, and with some great styling cues, a smidge over £2K.
Their website, has the best 360 view plugin I've ever seen on any websiteVery much liking Ollech & Wajs new 7753-powered 'Rallychron' - 39mm, and with some great styling cues, a smidge over £2K.
Nice looking watch, except for the hands.Very much liking Ollech & Wajs new 7753-powered 'Rallychron' - 39mm, and with some great styling cues, a smidge over £2K.
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
Tasty. I’m not sure I can do a 7750/7753 again, it’s just so thick! I’ve seen a couple of sellita clones with a handwind modification. This is the way forward as far as I’m concernedVery much liking Ollech & Wajs new 7753-powered 'Rallychron' - 39mm, and with some great styling cues, a smidge over £2K.
It certainly is. Zoomable too.
A pusher date with 300m W/R. That is impressive. Nice watch but a bit small for my taste.
Last edited by j111dja; 19th April 2024 at 19:08.
I am being drawn to this also. It looks very much like the original, do PM me if you have one of those for sale! List seems to be circa £6.5K so a big bath if it goes on SC a year after I buy one!Can't see me ever buying another watch at this point, but if I was in the market then this would be it....
At 37mm they haven't even made it oversized.
£6.9k.
Thanks for the correction Ryan!
I will try to resist starting a new "where can I get a discount thread"
Without re-quoting again I did want to say how much I enjoy the Earl's posts.
I had high hopes for Bremont. Their actually offerings have never been my thing particularly but as a fan of English watchmaking I wanted them to succeed. I still wish them well but these look like Argos / T K Maxx stuff.
https://uk.marathonwatch.com/pages/jeep-x-marathon
If ever there were a collaboration that would grab my attention it would be Marathon and Jeep.
I like a marathon watch or 6 and the Willys is the best car ever designed - ok I might be pushing it there but it gave rise to an entire type of vehicle and Enzo Ferrari called it the best sports car the US ever made.
But..
These look utter cr@p, they have obviously designed them to appeal to a 9 year old boy (or an American)
They look like an Argos special. (Or modern Bremont) Utter tosh!
punchy for a Seiko thats for sure. Sadly S/S watches are well overpriced in this day and age and becoming hard to justify.
Thought for the day, would you choose:
A - Chopard’s openworked titanium Alpine Eagle ($26,500)
B - Christopher Ward’s skeletonised titanium Twelve X (£4,120), and enough spare change for a decent used Porsche / holidays in the Seychelles for the next decade?
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...with-the-xp-tt
https://wornandwound.com/christopher...tches-to-date/
Neither look good to me but if I was in the market, as others ave said, I’d get a used zenith defy at the same price as the CW and pocket the change
I think the correct answer is C: Zenith Defy, at discount
I guess the honest answer is D - none of the above, as I won’t be getting any of them. Perhaps the Chopard is the prettiest, but it should be at that price. A good effort from Christopher Ward though, the main advantage of the Defy seems to be that it has Zenith written on it.
Last edited by Itsguy; Today at 13:34.
I wonder how much a service on the zenith would be compared to CW.
Probably about as much as the CW costs - anything LVMH is notoriously expensive. I've heard rumours from an ex-industry chap I know that they hold few parts for discontinued lines over 10 years old, and consider anything no longer in production to be 'vintage', and so charge higher rates for servicing.
Makes the Zenith a less attractive option taking that into account.
FWIW, it's not unique to Zenith, all the LVMH and Richemont brands are like this, and of course Rolex are notorious for charging what they feel like and undertaking whatever work they insist must be done. Swatch Group seem more patchy, but lots of reports of expensive and inadequate work by Omega. It does need considering when buying prestige brands - it's not just cost of purchase to consider, and even when value retention's high, you can get spanked for four-figure sums if work needs doing ex-warranty.
I saw an invoice on here before for £1.5k for a 5513 at an accredited independent but the bog standard stuff is £600 I think.
I overheard someone asking for costs at Rolex for a Paul Newman Daytona and work for stuff like that is done directly by Geneva in the heritage dept. The cost just for them to evaluate was about the same price as a basic DJ41.
Even if they were the same price I would pick B, rather than A.
If I wanted a skeleton dial I would pick one that exposed the maximum amount of the movement, rather than just cut a few holes out, here and there.
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