Reply With Quotemust admit I would like that(atough I no longer have my 300m Tuna)
300m Tuna hardcore collectors, Is SAPPHIRE preferred to Hardlex?
Thanks
Bry
Last edited by Bry1975; 30th October 2019 at 20:38.
must admit I would like that(atough I no longer have my 300m Tuna)
Having had both within a week the hardlex looks much nicer imho
When I got mine I thought upgrading the crystal to sapphire was the first thing I'd do but ended up actually liking the hardlex.
I think the hardlex looks nicer than the sapphires I have had in mine (all aftermarket - don't think Seiko make a sapphire for this model), but the way the dome projects above the bezel means the hardlex seems to get scratched very easily. So on balance I prefer to fit a sapphire.
I had a blue AR sapphire fitted to my SBBN017 thinking it would be ace. After a couple of weeks I changed it back to hardlex.
It just didn't look right, and I think that applies to most older Seikos. The hardlex is warmer and more natural looking.
Personally much prefer the look and durability of sapphire.
Never had issues with scratches on my tunas from normal use. Only a tiny part is raised over bezel. Isnt sapphire more prone to shattering with a knock?
Hardlex looks better IMO.
Sapphire has higher reflective tendencies and requires decent anti-reflective coatings to work well. External AR is a really terrible idea on a dive instrument and will get cut up over time...yes, looking at you Sinn. AR isn't essential on Hardlex/mineral.
The durability issue isn't as clear cut as forum dwellers like to suggest. Sapphire shatters more easily, Hardlex scratches more easily. There is a reason most dive gauges use mineral glass - a scratch doesn't cause your equipment to fail but a crystal shattering is a significant problem.
Last edited by bedlam; 31st October 2019 at 00:52.
Hardlex
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