“Through others we become ourselves.”
― Lev S. Vygotsky
Alpha to Zeno, via Smiths, Dagaz, Tiger, Rolex and a host of others. There is almost an alternate phonetic language of brands banging out explorer type watches.
I own a Rolex Explorer 214270, and cannot quite explain to myself, let alone to you, why I was drawn to a cheap watch in the same style. The closest answer that I can find is that I enjoy wearing my Explorer very much, but it sits in a specific hinterland where it will get swapped out for something dressier when I need to be dressed, and something lumpier when I need to hit things with a hammer. While a sports watch will never do dress duty, I felt that an explorer style watch might replace the G-Shocks for beater duty, lending a bit more unity to the collection.
And then there is also the uneasy sense - you must have felt it too - that sports Rolexes have somehow morphed from morlock to eloi. The Explorer is, after all, supposedly the ür- tool watch; why then do I favour a G-Shock for rougher activities? If a tool watch is too pricey, too good for that sort of thing, then is it really a tool watch at all? Does its price point undermine its fitness for purpose, and - if so - does a cheap-ass homage beat the Explorer at its own game?
Enter the Seiko SNKM53K1.
The little seiko is ~38mm, and for the purposes of homage modding, the stainless steel case has a crown usefully at 3 o’clock, and no guards. It uses the evergreen seiko 7S26 caliber, which is a self-winding mechanical movement without hacking or manual winding, a 43 hour power reserve and 21,600 bph. All of which is to say: it’s cheap, cheerful, rugged, and there’s little to go wrong. In truth the power reserve seems to go a bit further, while accuracy is within 10secs/day.
To this was added an aftermarket dial, handset, high-domed top hat crystal and oyster-type bracelet. What we’re left with isn’t a true replica, but certainly captures the Explorer vibe.
What’s interesting about this watch is how it stacks up against the Rolex. Putting it on the wrist for the first time, the overwhelming sense is just how close the Seiko gets. Like a weaponised version Pareto principle, it feels like this is just a hugely impressive bit of kit, for maybe 3 or 4% of the Rolex price. It looks good, it feels good, it keeps time. Most importantly, it works as a tool watch, insofar as you never feel that you need to take it off before you go to do something. When it arrived, I wore this watch for about a week straight without even considering the Explorer that was sitting on my shelf.
But here’s where our soviet psychologist Lev comes in. After a week of the Seiko, I have to say that I thought the Rolex was fairly redundant. I hadn’t noticed a particular downtick in quality switching to the SNKM53, and certainly I enjoyed the fit-and-forget nature of the thing. However, what I hadn’t really expected was the very real uptick in quality that I did immediately notice when going back to the Explorer. Oh, nothing and everything... it was all in the tiny details. The quality and operation of the bracelet, the steadfastness of the watch on the wrist, the feel of the crown.
Unfortunately this story doesn’t really have a coherent narrative conclusion in the manner of those click bait reviews that pit watches of different price points head-to-head.
The Seiko is a supremely good auto for little money, and I find the mods pleasing. I was able to go to it from the Explorer and thoroughly enjoy the whole thing.
The Rolex is supremely good, full stop. Through others we become ourselves, and through the cheap-ass homage I have a greater sense of the nuance and quality of the Explorer.
Which is the truer tool watch? Like so much in life, it’s complicated.... Keen to hear your thoughts.
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Originally Posted by reggie747
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