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Thread: Royal Oaks. Normal or Ultrathin?

  1. #1

    Royal Oaks. Normal or Ultrathin?

    Like it says. Thinking that this might be where my watch future lies. But I’m drawn to both. Which would you go for? Or maybe it should be which haveyou gone for?

  2. #2
    Neither an owner nor intender, but I do admire them greatly. The thin is nice in that it goes a little against the macho vibe of steel sports watches generally.

  3. #3
    Grand Master SimonK's Avatar
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    I prefer the proportions of the ultrathin, 39mm against 41mm, but I'm not sure I'd be ready to pay 4 grand more for one over the standard model.

  4. #4
    Grand Master Wallasey Runner's Avatar
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    The Blue dial ultra thin is an absolute stunner with the AP logo at the base of the dial. Isn't this in the same bracket as a blue Nautilus, almost impossible to buy new and one hell of a premium on a second hand one. Watchfinder had one for £22k.

  5. #5
    Master
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    Ultrathin is perfect. 39mm 15300 (no longer available new) normal one is great too. 41mm 15400 (current) normal one screws up the proportions for me.

  6. #6
    Master
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    Yes, but the 15202 (Jumbo) is only a two-hander and lacks a quick set date function.
    Whilst going back to 9, then forward to 2 shortens the process, it’s still a faff.

  7. #7
    Yes, pricey. Hysterically so new and merely catastrophically so used. I’m in the used department. It’ll still be a collection thinning event.

    Anyone handled both? Does the 39mm feel ‘right’ for an RO?

  8. #8
    For me the extra thin is on the small side plus I’m not a fan of blue dials.

    Where as the 41mm is perfect

  9. #9
    Craftsman Exiztence's Avatar
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    I absolutely love them but heard nightmares regarding reliability and waterproofness

  10. #10
    Master
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    For the style of the watch 39mm is too small IMO. Great watches but not for me. (even if I could justify the expense!)

  11. #11
    Journeyman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exiztence View Post
    I absolutely love them but heard nightmares regarding reliability and waterproofness
    Pull out crown doesn’t help things. Couldn’t live without a second hand and the lack of quick set date would annoy me. That said, I think the proportions are perfect, whereas the 15400 just looks wrong to my eye.

  12. #12
    Craftsman dustybottoms's Avatar
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    I went 39mm 15300; perfect fit for my 7 inch wrist. The 15300 has the classic 39mm proportions but is a little bit chunkier in case and bracelet than the the ultra thin 15202 so appears perhaps a little sportier. Also benefits from screw-in crown and quick set date. Worth remembering that they all wear bigger than the dimensions suggest. The 15300 at a guess wears similar to a 42mm watch comparing it to my Speedy Pro.

    Whatever you decide they are all great.

    ETA I just noticed your question - Does the 39mm feel right for the RO? Yes of course it does, this was / is the intended size for the RO and is the size now reserved for the top of the range 15202, for a reason I would suggest.
    Last edited by dustybottoms; 26th May 2018 at 19:05.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Exiztence View Post
    I absolutely love them but heard nightmares regarding reliability and waterproofness
    Ooohh that’s not good. Please say more.

  14. #14
    Craftsman Exiztence's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corporalsparrow View Post
    Ooohh that’s not good. Please say more.
    Havent owned one but generally on watch gatherings everyone that had one complained that they had to send them for multiple repairs, supposedly the newest calibers are more reliable But Maybe someone else will have more info...

  15. #15
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by pitbull666 View Post
    For me the extra thin is on the small side plus I’m not a fan of blue dials.

    Where as the 41mm is perfect
    But for some reason the openworked doesn't seem to have the massive lip at 6 and 12 that the 15400 has so it's case proportions are fine. Also no date pulled in from the dial edge.

  16. #16
    Grand Master Raffe's Avatar
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    I think that 39mm above looks good, while the 41mm is clearly too large.

    I have a 36mm day date, and while the lack of quick-set can be annoying, it is a fantastic watch and I love to wear it with both formal as well as casual attire.

    I have never heard about reliability issues or problems with water resistance.
    Someone who lies about the little things will lie about the big things too.

  17. #17
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raffe View Post
    I think that 39mm above looks good, while the 41mm is clearly too large.
    41mm is fine on him - it's at an angle compared to the 39mm which is straight on. Look how far inside his wrist the 6 o'clock case edge is sitting and how much less there is of overhang at 12.

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Raffe View Post
    I think that 39mm above looks good, while the 41mm is clearly too large.

    I have a 36mm day date, and while the lack of quick-set can be annoying, it is a fantastic watch and I love to wear it with both formal as well as casual attire.

    I have never heard about reliability issues or problems with water resistance.
    Yes that’s not the best pic, here’s a couple for a better idea.


  19. #19
    Journeyman Minutes's Avatar
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    41mm... If you're going to spend that on a watch you might as well show it off a bit

    Sent from my [device_name] using TZ-UK mobile app

  20. #20
    Grand Master
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    I handle/wear them regularly.
    The 39mm jumbo is superbly proportioned and due to the case integration doesn't wear "small"
    The new RO jumbo extra thin with ti bracelet and platinum bezel is absolutely sublime, particularly the dial. That's the choice for me out of all of them. Eye watering cost wise though.
    The 15400 I thought would be an ideal size for me and I had one for a while but imo the proportions are off with the dial creating what seems to be an expanse while compensating for the increased case size.
    But, the 41mm chrono doesn't seem to suffer this with the addition of the subdials. Seems to balance more.

    All of that said though, I think the ROO diver is beautifully proportioned and bang for the buck wise I choose it over any of the standard RO's for the increased chunk and water resistance. It's not a RO to worry about.
    Many view it as an abomination though and that's fine with me as I don't see them as often :)

    I don't think you can choose sizes without trying on. They're all a bit deceiving in pictures vs metal.
    Last edited by verv; 27th May 2018 at 10:58.

  21. #21
    Thanks for replies. All very useful.

  22. #22
    Master Jardine32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pitbull666 View Post
    Yes that’s not the best pic, here’s a couple for a better idea.

    Every time I see this it stops me in my tracks. It is simply beautiful.
    J

  23. #23
    I think it all depends on your wrist size. I was lucky that when I bought mine I was able to try the 39mm 15300 next to the 41mm 15400. I went in wanting the 15300 but the 15400 just suited the size/shape of my wrist better. I've since tried on a 15202 and it looked/felt tiny on me perhaps due to how slim it is. Out of the 15300, 15400 and 15202 the dial on the 15202 is my favourite.

    As others have said the best thing to do would be to try on various models and see which suits you best. You may find that you would need to try them in a precious metal due to ss availability but at least it will give you an idea of size.

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Jardine32 View Post
    Every time I see this it stops me in my tracks. It is simply beautiful.
    J
    Thank you

    Few more if you are interested



  25. #25
    Master Jardine32's Avatar
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    I bet you have to double check when you look at that, "What's the time? Oh yeah"
    J

  26. #26
    Master
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    39 all day.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #27
    I would and did go for the 15202st.

    Ideally the best thing to do is try both on but given the scarcity of the jumbo and the 15300 being discontinued it might be tough to find one, that said i believe that 39mm is the perfect size for the RO and fits my 7" wrist perfectly.


  28. #28
    Craftsman dustybottoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMW View Post
    I would and did go for the 15202st.

    Ideally the best thing to do is try both on but given the scarcity of the jumbo and the 15300 being discontinued it might be tough to find one, that said i believe that 39mm is the perfect size for the RO and fits my 7" wrist perfectly.

    Stunning mate.

  29. #29
    Master
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    I prefer the 39mm myself.

  30. #30
    Master Bernard's Avatar
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    I visited the factory a few years ago and they were quite clear: the ultrathins were the best they made.

    Go for that!

  31. #31
    I take your point, however the more I look into this the more I’m drawn to a plain old 39mm simply because it will be worn pretty much daily.

  32. #32
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corporalsparrow View Post
    I take your point, however the more I look into this the more I’m drawn to a plain old 39mm simply because it will be worn pretty much daily.
    Definitely think you are going in the right direction.
    15300 has the right case dimensions for the wrist as well as the mechanism. I also need the second hand so there is ‘movement’ on the dial.
    Now you just have to work out wh Ch colour dial !!

  33. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by pitbull666 View Post
    For me the extra thin is on the small side plus I’m not a fan of blue dials.

    Where as the 41mm is perfect
    I have to disagree with you there - the extra thin is of a size that allows the bracelet to really wrap around your wrist as intended. It looks great.
    Not that the 41mm looks bad. Your wrist pulls both off.

  34. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Umbongo View Post
    I have to disagree with you there - the extra thin is of a size that allows the bracelet to really wrap around your wrist as intended. It looks great.
    Not that the 41mm looks bad. Your wrist pulls both off.
    Horses for courses I guess! At least you can choose between a 37mm, 39mm (ok limited to two models) and a 41mm everyone’s taste should be covered.

    For me and my 7.5 wrist I still have the bracelet wrap, look at post 18.

  35. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by pitbull666 View Post
    Horses for courses I guess! At least you can choose between a 37mm, 39mm (ok limited to two models) and a 41mm everyone’s taste should be covered.

    For me and my 7.5 wrist I still have the bracelet wrap, look at post 18.
    As I said, both watches looked great on you. The bracelet wrap is the key - something overlooked by so many - you're supposed to wear the watch, not have the watch wear you! :)

    I admired your skeleton dial RO on a previous thread and love that you have departed from the herd, so to speak, and bought something interesting.

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Umbongo View Post
    As I said, both watches looked great on you. The bracelet wrap is the key - something overlooked by so many - you're supposed to wear the watch, not have the watch wear you! :)

    I admired your skeleton dial RO on a previous thread and love that you have departed from the herd, so to speak, and bought something interesting.
    Totally agree and that’s one of the beauties of the RO bracelet it glides around the wrist, and yes that would be lost if the watch head overhanged the wrist which is something I’ve never considered.

    Openworked dials can be marmite but I love the offerings from AP, the 15407st was the watch that got my attention and looking into AP, yes it’s a step away from your typical watch collections and being honest I’ve been through most of the common models so having something different does feel unique, but these models do bring another level of hard to get to the collecting game.

  37. #37
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Minutes View Post
    41mm... If you're going to spend that on a watch you might as well show it off a bit
    If you’re going to spend that much on a watch it might as well fit!

    Without doubt the 15202st is the winner for me, it has a style and sophistication that the 15300 and 15400 can’t match, all other things being equal. But of course they are not equal, and price, wrist size, personal style, and even your build could make another one a better choice. ‘Extra thin’ may be an acquired taste, as generally watches have been bulking up to look more contemporary over the past decade or three, but once you tune into it, the idea that thin means lean, svelte, and technically superior starts to grow on you. The proportions start to look better than the alternatives, in the same way that losing a few pounds might be sexier than abusing steroids. The price difference suggests AP agree.

  38. #38
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exiztence View Post
    Havent owned one but generally on watch gatherings everyone that had one complained that they had to send them for multiple repairs, supposedly the newest calibers are more reliable But Maybe someone else will have more info...
    Would also like to know more in regards to those known issues.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeFalconer View Post
    Would also like to know more in regards to those known issues.
    Super sensitive movement? Crown falls off etc

  40. #40
    Grand Master Raffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeFalconer View Post
    Would also like to know more in regards to those known issues.
    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeFalconer View Post
    Super sensitive movement? Crown falls off etc
    You'd be much better off buying a Nautilus. That's a Petek Philippe, in case you don't know the model?
    Someone who lies about the little things will lie about the big things too.

  41. #41
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raffe View Post
    You'd be much better off buying a Nautilus. That's a Petek Philippe, in case you don't know the model?
    hahahaha oh yes thank you mhhh a Nautilus what is that?

  42. #42
    Craftsman
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    does anyone here have the new YG 15202 with blue dial?

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by henk View Post
    To be honest neither
    ?

  44. #44
    Craftsman
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    has anyone seen or tried on the YG version with blue dial? I have tried on the yellow on yellow/champagne version at the unfriendly Watch Club the other week. The watch is 1 year old unworn from a collector who traded in for many many Rolexes but they have reduced the price since from 37k to 35k I think. RRP is 46k?

    No good value? Does the RG version have better value?

  45. #45
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    dont let me down forum nerds

  46. #46
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeFalconer View Post
    dont let me down forum nerds
    If you insist! I can’t comment on the value, though yellow gold is certainly a bold choice, and I’m usually amused by the prices in Watch Club, you certainly pay for the location. But in any case for me the whole history of the RO was about it inventing the luxury stainless steel sports watch, and being the first stainless steel watch that was more valuable than a gold watch. On that basis I’d wonder if gold was the way to go. Each to his own though.
    Last edited by Itsguy; 1st June 2018 at 09:34.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itsguy View Post
    If you insist! I can’t comment on the value, though yellow gold is certainly a bold choice, and I’m usually amused by the prices in Watch Club, you certainly pay for the location. But in any case for me the whole history of the RO was about it inventing the luxury stainless steel sports watch, and being the first stainless steel watch that was more valuable than a gold watch. On that basis I’d wonder if gold was the way to go. Each to his own though.
    Yes I kind of agree. I really wany a RO but I am concerned spending so much money on such a senstive movement. I already had such bad experience with my VC Overseas recently which is currently in 8 week service after only 2 1/2 years.

  48. #48
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeFalconer View Post
    has anyone seen or tried on the YG version with blue dial? I have tried on the yellow on yellow/champagne version at the unfriendly Watch Club the other week. The watch is 1 year old unworn from a collector who traded in for many many Rolexes but they have reduced the price since from 37k to 35k I think. RRP is 46k?

    No good value? Does the RG version have better value?
    I've tried both and the YG with blue is stunning. It's THE watch I'd buy if I was retiring to a life of luxury somewhere lovely in Italy or similar. White linen shirt, as tanned as my pasty Scottish skin would get and not a care in the world. Tough watch to get away with day to day in the UK, and that comes from a YG DD40 owner.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmcm3 View Post
    I've tried both and the YG with blue is stunning. It's THE watch I'd buy if I was retiring to a life of luxury somewhere lovely in Italy or similar. White linen shirt, as tanned as my pasty Scottish skin would get and not a care in the world. Tough watch to get away with day to day in the UK, and that comes from a YG DD40 owner.
    Where have you been able to see it in the flesh? Yes I agree with you.

  50. #50
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeFalconer View Post
    Where have you been able to see it in the flesh? Yes I agree with you.
    NYC boutique back in March - not especially convenient. As it happens I was on the phone to them earlier this evening and they have both RG and YG in. Didn't ask which dial.

    Also saw in Milan boutique.

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