Reply With QuoteVery interested as I want to build a studio at the bottom of my garden. How much do you think the total will cost you?
Will you be insulating etc?
Hi all, it thought I’d throw some stuff here about my current project, it is sort of watch related, in that once complete, it will give me the space to indulge in some movement cleaning and oiling, amongst other things. It is a workshop in the backgarden, about 28m2 and 2.4m to the eaves.
The project has been ongoing for years, with most of the focus on hard landscaping around the site and the groundworks for the build. Stepping back in time to a couple of years ago……
A concrete raft is already down and two courses of brick, the wooden structure will go on top of this. An underground duct has been laid that carries the shielded armoured power cables, an airline, a water pipe and a couple of cat5 cables. Its hard to see the raft at the moment as I’ve covered it in cr… useful stuff
Fast forward a few patio slab laying seasons (60m2 in all) and its time to start the timber structure, I planned this carefully and after considering all options decided the best watch to wear whilst nail-gunning was a mil’ issue quartz. My trusty Pulsar Gen2
So nail gun in hand its time to build the walls, here they are stacked one on top of the other ready to be raised, I’ve used a double header and footer which is a bit overkill and 16” centres, I figure stronger than need is better than crying over a pile of broken timber after the first big wind.
If anyone is interested in the rest of the build let me know how much detail you want and I'll post more later
Sean
Very interested as I want to build a studio at the bottom of my garden. How much do you think the total will cost you?
Will you be insulating etc?
I'll be watching with interest too. I badly need a studio space but it wouldn't be there forever, however anything like this is interesting!
I've spent a bit under 5K so far, that's all the timber for the wall and roof studs/joists, all the osb to use inside and out (I've doubled up here, it can just be used on one face only)
All the cladding, roof shingles, building membrane and wood treatment. Oh and door frames and two softwood doors
Still to buy is the insulation and flooring and that will complete the structure, then I'll need the lighting, electricals etc.
No tools are included in the price above
Excellent thread- subscribed!
I will certainly be following. My garden log cabin has been up 14 years now. Best moneyy we have ever spent on the house / garden.
Subscribed!
I’m thinking of a (DIY) tiny studio in my garden. Max 3x3. (I have a tiny garden.)
Does your 5k spend include any glazing, insulation costs? Are you planning to put electric heaters in there?
I would be interested in more details of this build!
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I’m finally buying my first house with a garden and looking for ideas for an office/ summer house at the end of the garden so looking forward to updates. OP I would say the more detail the better fas it is always interesting to see what decisions people make with builds.
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Well done, looking good. Some pic’s of our 28sq.m Pilates Studio.
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^^^ That does look good.
^^ Very nice studio, Reformer Pilates..
Great thread and funny timing as I was only looking at log cabins this morning. We are close to buying our first house in the UK and I would like an outdoor music room, probably something like 6 x 6m.
Did you need a building permit, I assume so but as building regs are more lenient in the UK perhaps not?
Cheers,
Simon
Given the nail gun recoil I would have gone for an LCD display only - maybe a G-Shock - otherwise well planned ;-) I approve
- Tim
If I recall correctly under 30 square metres and 2.5m high garden buildings are permitted development.Originally Posted by mondie
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Last edited by mangoosian; 24th March 2018 at 22:23.
That sounds promising thanks, although I would probably be over 30m2. Will do some Googling now that you have given me the right language to search for. Cheers
I'll watch this with interest. We have a wooden building in the corner of our garden which was taken apart from its old location and put back together in its current location some years ago. Used it for a few things, but mostly it is a dumping room.
Have always wanted to fit out properly and use it for something so maybe this thread will give me some ideas.
Ours is pretty solid, has power and lights and I could get internet to it as well (the wifi doesn't quite reach). Did think about a bar and pool table of some sort a while back. It is insulated but its still quite cold so a decent heater is probably the first thing to look into.
The pilates studio in this thread looks amazing.
Last edited by bambam; 24th March 2018 at 19:39.
Yes, we now have a second Reformer with full tower too. My wife runs this as her business teaching small groups and 1 to 1’s in Chelmsford, she is awesome and I’m not just saying that because she’s my wife.
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Great, shame I’m so far away in Cambridge, but I go to a class up here which is very good once a week..
I'll follow this.
Keep it coming, OP.
R
Ignorance breeds Fear. Fear breeds Hatred. Hatred breeds Ignorance. Break the chain.
+1
I'll follow this.
Keep it coming, OP.
R
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
ooooo poo, the pressure is on! lets hope I don't disappoint, in answer to questions so far (and please shout if I miss any)
No, the 5k does not include the insulation or the plastic sheet to go on top of it, the heating will be oil filled radiators to maintain the temp, a couple of convection heaters to blast the temp up at the start of a cold day (not to be used when making lots of sawdust). There will be no windows, more on this later.
impressive yumma, I'll be please if mine comes out looking half as good
No Planning Consent or Building Regs are required for my build, but I have planned carefully to not need them, the building is over 2 meter from all boundaries, the height to the eaves is under 2.44m (8ft), just, and the height to the ridge is under 4m, this all allows me to proceed using Permitted Development, at the start I applied for and received a note from the local council confirming this to be the case, for which service they happily chargeThe internal floor area at 28m2 is under 30m2 so buildings regs are not needed.
Tim, the recoil on the nail gun is minimal, but when hammering I switch to my 30yr+ digital from Lizzy Duke
also, apologies for the two day delay, but the weekends are my build time, no spare time for wasting on fora updates hee hee. Also there was a Beer Festival to fit in.......
I've covered some of the design decisions already but it is probably better if I go over them all in one post.
To not need building Regs sign off the internal area is under 30m2. I'm not trying to avoid the Council checking the build, it's just that size wise I don't need to go bigger so it removed an admin hassle. The building itself I'm trying to build a standard that would pass anyway.
The height at just under 2.5m to the eaves and well under 4m to the ridge of a two pitch roof, keeps me within Permitted Development but allows me to be able to turn a full sheet of ply/osb/mdf on its end without hitting the ceiling.
The walls are timber, but are placed on two courses of brick to stop water soaking up from the ground, there is a damp proof membrane between the brick and the timber.
a cross-section through the walls/roof from outside to in:
Wall -Pine Cladding / Roof - Cedar Shingle
Battens
Building Paper / Roof Membrane
11mm OSB
Wall - 4 by 2 stud / roof - 6 by 2 rafters
Insulation in all wall and roof cavities
Plastic sheet
11mm osb
the two layers of osb are overkill, to reduce cost I could use plasterboard on the inside instead, I doubled up on the osb for sheer strength (nailing the sheet to the wall/roof stops it racking) and to make it easier to fix things to the walls.
The floor is concrete, which will be damp-proofed insulated and chipboarded.
There is a double door at the front and no windows, this is for security, windows are easy to get through and I don't want anyone who's already hopped the fence into the garden peering in to asses the goodies. It means no natural light which is a major con' but security won - hmmmmm. The lighting will be daylight bulbs to help make it more comfortable inside.
The electrics will be in conduits on the wall, rather than inside the wall cavity, I want the freedom to add sockets without needing to open the walls up in the future.
Thanks all for the nice comments on our Pilates Studio. I really like the varnished OSB board as a wall and ceiling finish, it all worked out really well. If anyone wants a Stott trained Pilates instructor and Reformer session give me a shout.
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Thanks for a very useful reply. Since i first saw your thread I have done a bit of reading on planning regs and the vast choice of log cabins available from a multitude of manufacturers. The choice is really quite vast but the good ones get quite expensive and the obvious question then is, can a local builder knock me a up a rectangular timber studio on a concrete slab for similar money. Either way, I will struggle to stay under 30sqm and the height restrictions as I am not willing to compromise.No Planning Consent or Building Regs are required for my build, but I have planned carefully to not need them, the building is over 2 meter from all boundaries, the height to the eaves is under 2.44m (8ft), just, and the height to the ridge is under 4m, this all allows me to proceed using Permitted Development, at the start I applied for and received a note from the local council confirming this to be the case, for which service they happily charge
Good luck with your project
Don’t rule out metal buildings either :)
Metal would work as well, anything but solid construction is fine to allow the bass to escape the room. i will have to do some further looking at metal buildings, main proviso is that I can well insulate it.
Cheers
Yes metal is fine and would allow you to move closer to the boundary, if my memory is correct. (must be build/clad out of not flammable material)
A building over 15m2 and under 1m to the boundary requires planning permission
All the above is from memory - add it to your daily list of things to not believe without checking first!
That's good info thanks Sean, metal will be fine for my needs. Insulation is my main worry as I want to be able to use the room all year round. It will be heavily treated with sound absoption so maybe insulation held in place by sheets of MDF and then sound absorbing panels over the MDF would work. It doesbt need to be pretty but must sound good!
I recently built a not so little (60 sqm) shed at the end of the garden .... the only softwood in the whole thing is the battens for the slate, otherwise it's all oak, it'll last longer than the house!
'Shed' is perhaps an understatement! What a beautiful (here it comes...) garden palace! I don my hat for you, sir. Great skills.
Did any of you builders consider a garden shed with a Tesla Solar Roof?
Last edited by thieuster; 30th March 2018 at 22:26.
That's fantastic, well done it looks like a great space, if only I could DIY! Alas I am pretty hopeless beyond changing a light bulb or sorting a flat tyre. So it will have to be a kit or local builder for me.
I designed it and project managed it, and paid of course, wasn't cheap but quality isn't
It's a superb space for my toys, cars & bikes, and was amazingly built on the 'waste ground' at the end of the garden!
Well, it's been a while, sorry for the delay. It's mostly down to me being busy building the workshop....... and being too lazy to frack about with resizing images and writing posts. If I'm too laconic at any stage shout for the detail you want.
Now then, where were we. In the last update the walls were sat on the ground. Erecting them is nothing more than getting the neighbours over to do some lifting, checking for square, plumb and true and nailing the corners together. Add supports as needed.
A closer look at the California corners. This deals with the problem of supporting the boarding on the inside corners.
Inside, you can also see one of the hold down straps
Outside
With the walls up it's time for a roof. You can buy trusses but I wanted to do as much as possible myself and trusses usually have a cross member close to the header plate height, this would eat into the roof space and make it harder to rotate an 8 by 4 sheet of ply inside the building. So I'm cutting the roof myself. This involves a ridge board along the centre with a rafters each side, a collar tie will be added to alternate rafters.
To make life easier for the solo worker I bought an access tower, it cost a touch over 500 but I couldn't have completed the build alone without it.
Rafter cutting, one is cut first as a master, angled cuts at both ends and a birds mouth where it fits over the header plate, this first rafter is used to mark out the others. Here the master can be seen leaning by the SCM Saw whilst I cut the second.
After test fitting these two and ensuring the fit is good, the rest of the rafters are cut.
Looks good. Nice to see you treated the birds mouth.
Thanks Nuisance 👍
The cls is pressure treated and all cut surfaces are given a slap of treatment 😁
The ridge board is made up of two lengths, I cut a scarf joint on the end of each board and raised the front board with rafters at the front gable and just in front of the scarf. You can just see the collar tie on the middle rafter and a support beam that's clamped across the middle to stop the walls spreading before all the ties are fitted.
Then the rafters are added to the rest of the front half.
Getting the rafters up took ages. Flat out I might get 3 pairs up in a day. Each pair had me up and down the access tower in the middle and a ladder at the side about six or more times. I only have one ladder so it has to be carried from side to side each time. Sigh.
Wow nice one, great weather for it too. Where are the windows going?
Cheers Catch,
There won't be any windows, they take up wall space and leave holes in the walls for burglars! I'm fitting a ventilation system instead to evacuate the fine wood dust that the extraction systems don't catch.
Now the ridge board can go up on the back half, same procedure as before, get rafters up at each end. The clamps are holding the scarf joint in line while I frig about with the ridge.
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