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Thread: Shouderless spring bars - removal and replacement tool?

  1. #1

    Shouderless spring bars - removal and replacement tool?

    Morning all,

    I'm considering buying a pair of Bergeon 7825 spring bar tweezers (basically Rolex 3200 tweezers) but realised they can surely only be used on double flanged spring bars, i.e. not the shoudlerless spring bars used in my 16610 and 16570 as there's nothing for the tweezers to grip on to. Whilst both have drilled lugs, that doesn't prevent the spring bars from digging in to the inside of the lugs, which this tool prevents happening.

    Is there an equivalent removal and replacement tool for shoulderless spring bars?

  2. #2
    Grand Master
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    You mean like a tweezers tool for drilled lug cases?
    Not that I know of.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by verv View Post
    You mean like a tweezers tool for drilled lug cases?
    Not that I know of.
    That's exactly it, though the shoulderless spring bar bit is the crucial part rather than specifically for drilled lugs, given some people use flanged spring bars in drilled lug cases.

    I mean I can't see how it would actually work, but that doesn't mean someone hasn't made one!

  4. #4
    Grand Master
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    I was trying to work out the logistics but think it risks fouling the lug holes.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by verv View Post
    I was trying to work out the logistics but think it risks fouling the lug holes.
    I suppose you'd need something like parallel pliers that push pins into the lug holes from the exterior to compress the spring bars, and then something that slides in on the inside of the lugs to capture the heads of the spring bars whilst also squeezing in between the tips of the pins and the spring bar heads so that when opening the pliers to remove the pins from the lug holes, the spring bar remains compressed and you can withdraw it.

    All in all, not going to happen.

  6. #6
    Master aldfort's Avatar
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    Shoulderless spring bars still vary in diameter.
    The thinner ends drop into the lug holes while the thicker centre sits between the lugs.
    Removal from a through drilled lug is easy. Removal from a non through drilled lug is a little more difficult but still possible.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by aldfort View Post
    Shoulderless spring bars still vary in diameter.
    The thinner ends drop into the lug holes while the thicker centre sits between the lugs.
    Removal from a through drilled lug is easy. Removal from a non through drilled lug is a little more difficult but still possible.
    I do like drilled lugs as you can just push a pin through to disengage the spring bars, but it doesn't deal with the issue I'm trying to prevent, being the spring bars digging in to the inside of the lugs upon removal and replacement, hence my quest referenced in the OP. Doesn't seem like such a tool exists though!

  8. #8
    Master aldfort's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hughtrimble View Post
    I do like drilled lugs as you can just push a pin through to disengage the spring bars, but it doesn't deal with the issue I'm trying to prevent, being the spring bars digging in to the inside of the lugs upon removal and replacement, hence my quest referenced in the OP. Doesn't seem like such a tool exists though!
    Not all spring bars are created equal. Some don't have sharp edges on the pin ends. This helps a lot. Nothing helps that much on a gold watch as the gold tends to be soft in comparison to the steel bar.
    Three hands would be more helpful that any tool IMHO!

  9. #9
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    Yes. If you order/purchase proper Rolex bars from an AD (tenner iirc) they have rounded ends. Generics have flat which are more likely to catch and mark inside the lugs.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by aldfort View Post
    Not all spring bars are created equal. Some don't have sharp edges on the pin ends. This helps a lot. Nothing helps that much on a gold watch as the gold tends to be soft in comparison to the steel bar.
    Three hands would be more helpful that any tool IMHO!
    Quote Originally Posted by verv View Post
    Yes. If you order/purchase proper Rolex bars from an AD (tenner iirc) they have rounded ends. Generics have flat which are more likely to catch and mark inside the lugs.
    I'll order some good ones from an AD then, cheers both. Having just looked at the 'originals' for both of them, they are indeed rounded at the tips.

    Regarding the spring bar remover for drilled lugs, I think the main issue I'm trying to deal with would actually be solved by a pretty simple bit of plastic with a sprung section. I'll have a crack. A third arm may still be needed though!

  11. #11
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    Question

    I’m slightly confused as to what you’re trying to gain?

    If I’m reading right your concern is with the end of the spring bar rubbing on the inside of the lug as you remove it?

    Even if you could make a tool it’s stuck inside the holes in the same position, as you move the bar the ends will just ping out and rest against the lug anyway.

    Either I’m way off what you mean or you’re just way too worried about potential damage on the inside of a lug that’ll never be seen.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by jameswrx View Post
    I’m slightly confused as to what you’re trying to gain?

    If I’m reading right your concern is with the end of the spring bar rubbing on the inside of the lug as you remove it?

    Even if you could make a tool it’s stuck inside the holes in the same position, as you move the bar the ends will just ping out and rest against the lug anyway.

    Either I’m way off what you mean or you’re just way too worried about potential damage on the inside of a lug that’ll never be seen.
    Your last sentence is right on the money - it's about damage to the lugs that won't be seen. I got an Omega recently, and the insides and undersides of the lugs are pretty gouged. The bracelet has done some of that, but so have spring bars by the looks of things. I don't want the same to happen to my Sub or Exp 2, or whatever other watch joins them in my possession.

    Given a tool exists for flanged bars that can remove and replace the spring bars without them ever touching the inside of the lugs (the Bergeon and Rolex tools noted in my OP) I was wondering if a similar tool exists for shoulderless bars. The former exists because there's a desire to not cause damage to the lugs as otherwise only the single fork remover would suffice (Bergeon 6767 or suchlike), therefore I see no reason why the latter shouldn't exist too...except for the fact that it seems like it would be very complicated indeed to manufacture and implement due to the problem you note in your third sentence, but which I think the below sorts, albeit in a complicated and possibly impossible manner!

    Quote Originally Posted by hughtrimble View Post
    I suppose you'd need something like parallel pliers that push pins into the lug holes from the exterior to compress the spring bars, and then something that slides in on the inside of the lugs to capture the heads of the spring bars whilst also squeezing in between the tips of the pins and the spring bar heads so that when opening the pliers to remove the pins from the lug holes, the spring bar remains compressed and you can withdraw it.

    All in all, not going to happen.
    Last edited by hughtrimble; 19th February 2018 at 19:32.

  13. #13
    I have found that most watches with straps that have been tinkered with have scratches on the underside of the lugs (pet hate) where the bar spring releases and drags against the surface

    A very thin slither of plastic each side may do the job on shoulderless bars but i doubt there would be room on normal ones unless they have recessed endlinks etc

  14. #14
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    I would imagine hardly any marking is done by spring bar ends rubbing on the lug, you’ll have way more damage from the end link rubbing on the case. The damage is more likely some ham fisted sod jamming a screwdriver/knife in there as I’ve never caused any noticeable mark on my watches.

    Seems like a lot of worry for something so minuscule, unless you’re changing the strap 10 times a day how is it marking other than the lightest of scratches you’d need a loupe to see. And what about the actually bar eating into the steel over the years and reaming it out wider

    If you’ve got gouges in the lugs then I’d say someone has butchered it in some other way but I really can’t see how using the correct tool to push in the spring bar end one side then the other that the end (which should be relatively smooth) rubbing against the inside of the lug is causing damage other than the lightest surface mark. I don’t think I’ve ever noticed rub marks from spring bar ends on the inside of a case, I’m going to have to look now just to see how ‘box of frogs’ you are! I thought I was OCD moving my left arm behind my back walking through doorways haha.

  15. #15
    Just use a piece of tape on the inside of the lugs; job done.

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