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Thread: First Proper Watch - Advice Sought

  1. #1
    Journeyman
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    First Proper Watch - Advice Sought

    Hi,

    I started off wanting a diver - Omega Seamaster or Breitling Colt - have about £2000 - £2500 to spend.

    Having had quartz all my life, I wasn't sure whether I could live with the relative inaccuracy of an automatic so for the last couple of years I have been trying it out with a Seiko SKX007.

    Found that the accuracy doesn't both me that much (although my Seiko seems to be a very good example, within COSC standards), but what I decided I didn't like is the bulk and the weight. With the Seamaster and Colt being even chunkier and heavier I've decided to change direction.

    I don't like cluttered faces and I don't want a dress watch. I quite like the vintage style pilot or military watches.

    To give you some idea of what I like - I have been looking at the Tudor Heritage Ranger with leather strap.

    So two questions

    1) Is that Tudor any good? Must admit that I had only been vaguely aware of Tudor but understand that they are part of the Rolex group.

    2) What other watches of that ilk should I look at. I'm not that clued up on watch brands.

    Thanks for your help.

    Nigel
    Last edited by nheather; 17th January 2018 at 20:17. Reason: Improved Title

  2. #2
    Have you heard of Damasko or Stowa? Here is an example.



    http://www.damasko-watches.com/uk

    https://www.stowa.de/en/Home/

    Nigel

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tempfort View Post
    Have you heard of Damasko or Stowa? Here is an example.


    Nigel
    No, not heard of them - looks nice - will add them to my research list.

    Also what to people think of

    Steinhart and Christopher Ward?


    Cheers,

    Nigel

  4. #4
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by nheather View Post
    No, not heard of them - looks nice - will add them to my research list.

    Also what to people think of

    Steinhart and Christopher Ward?


    Cheers,

    Nigel
    Well below budget and a lot of watch for the money from what I read.

  5. #5
    Journeyman
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    I think my problem with either of Damasko or Stowa is not being able to see before I buy. Maybe below budget but it seems a big risk to buy just based on a photo on the webpage.

    I would be more comfortable buy a watch that I can see and hold in the flesh.

    Cheers,

    Nigel

  6. #6
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    Have you looked at the IWC mark range? Could be worth checking out


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  7. #7
    Grand Master Dave+63's Avatar
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    If you buy Christopher Ward in one of their sales, you shouldn’t lose much if you don’t like it.

    Likewise with Steinhart; buy one direct from their website (no sales or discount) and you’ll still lose very little if you decide to sell it on.

  8. #8
    Grand Master
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    Seamaster quartz isn't as bulky as a 007 which is a hefty thing so not really directly comparable.
    If weight is an issue have you considered a used tudor pelagos? Titanium is very lightweight and the finish is excellent.

    Ward does their own thing, some don't like the logo on the dial. My opinion on steinhart is low.

  9. #9
    Master Redwolf's Avatar
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    I was going to suggest Steinhart,haven’t actually handled one myself but am considering a vintage gmt. And yes Tudor are a lot of watch for the money. The ranger is a good example of a company homage to itself.


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  10. #10
    Master
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    Great advice from Verv. The Pelagos ticks all your boxes by the sound of things. Buy the earlier 2-line model and the face will be less cluttered, well within budget and a safe investment at that price.

  11. #11
    Master
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    Don't rule out pre-owned. Doesn't have to mean a trashed watch at all. Many people keep theirs good as new. For that money you'd end up with a huge potential selection. It also means that if it isn't quite for you, if bought wisely you can sell it on with minimal cost to yourself.

  12. #12
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    Have to say, the Omega Seamaster Professional is a great watch and a very good default choice IMO. It was my first good watch and I enjoyed it immensely.

    The earlier 1120 movement watches are very reliable and easily serviced by Omega or a good bunch of independents as are the later 2500 Co-Axial versions. Beautifully slim for a 300m diver but very solid. The newer ceramic versions have gone a bit shiny bling but are available used for not much more than your budget.

    The forum favourite seems to be the 2254, which was my first but I'm very partial to the electric blue dial 2255 version. The infamous Bond 2531 and later 2220.80 are the skeleton hand models with the unique bracelet that can be spotted a mile away by the watch nerds amongst us. Titanium 2231 is also lovely but harder to find.

    Oris Diver's 65 in either 40 or 42mm case size. Brand new and well under budget would also be a fine choice as are Longines Legend Diver and the new Rado Captain Cook. Lots of change from any of these and you'd probably get a healthy discount too.

    While a Steinhart is a incredible value, you have a budget well in excess of that and you may regret not pushing the boat a bit further.

  13. #13
    Master
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    Tudor make fine watches and would be ideal for what yoire looking for.

    You might struggle to see one in real life but don't rule out Sinn. Pretty much the apotheosis of uncluttered and function. I think either 556, 656 or 858 would work very well.

    Also as someone else noted, IWC are very good and the Mark XVIII or similar would do the trick.

    The Longines Heritage Diver is a lovely looking watch.

    Some people aren't keen on spending that kind of money on a Seiko but the SBDX017 would be perfect and will come under budget

  14. #14
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by stefaulkner View Post
    Great advice from Verv. The Pelagos ticks all your boxes by the sound of things. Buy the earlier 2-line model and the face will be less cluttered, well within budget and a safe investment at that price.
    Pelegos is ace but while it doesn't have the weight, it's still a big watch.

  15. #15
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gomers View Post

    Oris Diver's 65 in either 40 or 42mm case size. Brand new and well under budget would also be a fine choice

    My vote goes here

  16. #16
    Master AAddict's Avatar
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    Have a look at the Stowa Marine range. (Mine is the Marine Auto)

    DSC03827 by Anthony Andrades, on Flickr

    *Edit, sorry, just read above you're not keen on buying without trying.

  17. #17
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    I haven't totally ruled out a diver but if I were to go for one it would probably be an Omega Seamaster because whenever I look around my eye always get attracted back to that one.

    But for now I'm looking away from divers towards slimmer and more simplistic pilot's watchers. I like a plain three hand with uncluttered face.

    Cheers,

    Nigel

  18. #18
    Grand Master
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    Seen these?
    https://pinionwatches.com/product/pure-pro-steel/

    Not pilots but I think they look great.

  19. #19
    Master Templogin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nheather View Post
    I haven't totally ruled out a diver but if I were to go for one it would probably be an Omega Seamaster because whenever I look around my eye always get attracted back to that one.

    But for now I'm looking away from divers towards slimmer and more simplistic pilot's watchers. I like a plain three hand with uncluttered face.

    Cheers,

    Nigel
    Seamaster 300 Diver CO-axial with a strap to fit a 7” weighs 163 g 41mm case

  20. #20
    Master valleywatch's Avatar
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    "Personally"!..

    id go (gone!) for the following..

    Omega Speed master (dial may not be what you are looking for...but real easy to read).

    Omega S.M.P.

    Longines Legend Diver.

    Oris 65 ( i prefer the 42 mm one)

    Or how about an Eterna Kontiki

    Id probably go for a Tudor of some description.

  21. #21
    Craftsman
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    Check out the Omega De Ville range or Nomos.

  22. #22
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by nheather View Post
    I haven't totally ruled out a diver but if I were to go for one it would probably be an Omega Seamaster because whenever I look around my eye always get attracted back to that one.

    But for now I'm looking away from divers towards slimmer and more simplistic pilot's watchers. I like a plain three hand with uncluttered face.

    Cheers,

    Nigel
    Omega Railmaster (the previous version). Can be hard to find, Watchfinder have a couple but you'll pay for the privilege and there's a 41mm on SC at the moment although you won't have enough posts to view.

    A better choice than a Tudor Ranger, IMO of course.

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by nheather View Post
    I haven't totally ruled out a diver but if I were to go for one it would probably be an Omega Seamaster because whenever I look around my eye always get attracted back to that one.

    But for now I'm looking away from divers towards slimmer and more simplistic pilot's watchers. I like a plain three hand with uncluttered face.

    Cheers,

    Nigel
    If you are looking at pilots, I would recommend Stowa, Laco or Archimede as the best value for money.
    Regards
    John

  24. #24
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    I’ve spent some time looking at the Stowa and it is becoming more appealing.

    Looking at the Flieger Klassik 40 - think I still slightly prefer the look of the ranger but the Stowa has the same calibre, half the price and has a nice window on the back.

    Notice you can get in automatic or hand wound - what are the thoughts on that?

    Will keep looking through the other suggestions too before coming to a decision.

    Cheers,

    Nigel

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by nheather View Post
    I’ve spent some time looking at the Stowa and it is becoming more appealing.

    Looking at the Flieger Klassik 40 - think I still slightly prefer the look of the ranger but the Stowa has the same calibre, half the price and has a nice window on the back.

    Notice you can get in automatic or hand wound - what are the thoughts on that?


    Nigel
    Re auto vs hand wind it really does come down to personal preference - some go for the convenience of the former, others enjoy the interaction of the latter. One isn't better than the other.

    It's a shame that Stowa are nigh-on impossible to try before you buy, they do make some great watches.

    Here are my Flieger and Marine Original. The Flieger is auto, the MO manual.




  26. #26
    Master
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    If you're going to consider buying a pilot watch blind, then at least do so only after you've considered the likes of the Biatec Corsair, and Tourby offerings.

  27. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by PJ S View Post
    Biatec Corsair
    A new name to me. Just had a peruse of their site - blimey, they look great! The Majestic range have more than a touch of Moser about them and the Corsair a kind of stripped back PP 5524... I'd quite happily wear any of them.

    Edit - actually, they're more like Zenith's Pilot offerings rather than PP.
    Last edited by CardShark; 18th January 2018 at 02:17.

  28. #28
    Master
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    Known about them for a fair while – used to have their own sub-section, iirc, on WUS.
    Great looking watch for the money, not to mention the 60 hours PR Eterna cal 39 movement instead of the ubiquitous ETA 2892 / Sellita SW300.

  29. #29
    Grand Master number2's Avatar
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    Well that makes a nice change.
    "Once is happenstance. Twice is coincidence. The third time it's enemy action."

    'Populism, the last refuge of a Tory scoundrel'.

  30. #30
    Apprentice
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    I was in a similar boat. I'd had a Steinhart and a Seiko.. but wanted a pricier watch to look after etc. I went for the Omega Seamaster diver in Black.

  31. #31
    Grand Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    I'd buy the best Seamaster I could find with an 1120 movement and send it for a service at Omega. Should be able to do it in budget and you'd have a 2 yr warranty from Omega.
    (mesh strap optional!)


  32. #32
    Master Routers's Avatar
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    Very happy with my Tudor Ranger and have found these two strap options very comfy.








  33. #33
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    Very nice IWC pilot in titanium at Xupes. Cheeky offer to try and get within budget never hurt anybody!

  34. #34
    I think all of the options have some appeal, but as a first “proper” watch I’d be looking at one of the established brands. You won’t go wrong with a number of brands, and the watch will have appeal for many years to come - plus if you fall out of love with it, then someone else will love it as a used buy.

    I still think a brand new Seamaster SMPc is about the best new watch for the money at the discounted prices you can get one for - hell, I even think they are a great buy at full RRP. Chronext and a few others had some great deals on them - I’m tempted to buy another ;)

    Saying that, thanks to a very kind member (David), I managed to pick up a new Chronometer Pelagos for around the same price - I think both watches are quite comparable value wise, but have widely different looks.

    Ive owned the Tudor Ranger, and I think they are a fabulous watch for the money and ne of the most legible watch dials - I’ll buy another, no doubt for a lot more, when I’m older and the eyesight starts to play up, as I prefer them to the Rolex Explorer.
    Last edited by Omegamanic; 18th January 2018 at 17:41.
    It's just a matter of time...

  35. #35
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by nheather View Post
    I think my problem with either of Damasko or Stowa is not being able to see before I buy. Maybe below budget but it seems a big risk to buy just based on a photo on the webpage.

    I would be more comfortable buy a watch that I can see and hold in the flesh.

    Cheers,

    Nigel
    No risk at all. If you buy a watch brand new online you have a minimum of 14 days to return it for a full refund. That’s under the Consumer Rights Oct 2015.

    Think of it as an extended viewing session. So instead of 30 minutes in the Dealers Showroom you’ve a week at your home. Just make sure you keep all of the packaging, don’t remove any protective stickers. If it’s on a leather strap be careful of fastening too many times and leaving marks.

    Check with the retailer what their returns policy is, it will be on their website somewhere.

    Worst case scenario it will cost you the return RMSD charge.

  36. #36
    Master Strnglwhank's Avatar
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    You can’t go wrong with an SMP.



    Or how about a CWC Chrono on the pilot side?




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  37. #37
    I would find it very hard to resist a Black Bay new or a vintage Datejust in this price bracket.

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  38. #38
    Master Templogin's Avatar
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    The lume on the SMP hands is all but hopeless. The lume is too small and hard to read. I have been spoilt by tritium lume. Otherwise the SMP is a lovely watch.

  39. #39
    Master
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    Steinhart

    Test drive a sub homage for a year.

    If you like it check out a Rolex submariner if you want toup the ante (i'd personally go for a 14060m no date as I sold one on and bitterly regret it).

    The modern Seamaster range I've been down on for years now , I prefer the 50s, 60s and 70s versions.

  40. #40
    Craftsman
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    Definitely either:

    Tudor black bay
    Omega planet ocean
    Rolex datejust

    All pre loved may i add though the black baymay be able to get a new one in the sale for around £1775
    There was a jewellers in bournemouth recently who had a BB blue brand new for that price

  41. #41
    A SMP all day long because if you don't get one now you will want one in the future. With your budget you could get a new one on 0% credit and then spend the money you have on a prevoved speedmaster. Or you could get a secondhand PO.

    Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk

  42. #42
    Master
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    I’d guess you don’t want to hit 4-5k ? So between £1800-£2500 you can achieve a wonderful assortment of Speedmaster or Seamasters.
    I went for a Seamaster first and then finally scratched an itch with a Speedie. If going for a Speedie I’d go for a 90’s model which seem to be the lowest prices ( don’t worry they are just as good ).
    Seamaster 2254.50’s have not yet spiralled upwards and are absolute classics. Lume is like a torch as well
    For something a bit quirky you could go for a Seamaster GMT 2534.50 or its slightly more desired Great White

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