Oils go funny with age.
I recently rescued a 1974 gents Bulova from a drawer at my mums. fully wound but not working.
A few shakes nothing. Sat it on the radiator, 48 hrs later working nicely. Has since sat on the mantle place for two weeks and is still running fine. Just looked and it has gained 40 seconds in 3 days.
Take the above as a comment from one with little knowledge.
Early/mid 1970s model using one of the 1000-1020 series movements. Those can be a little troublesome vs the 60s Omega movements but that aside this certainly needs a service at the very least. Bank on spending a minimum of £125 to get it working, maybe multiples of this if it needs parts, it obviously needs a new crystal and crown so there is another £50-75 straight away. Don't send it to Omega unless you want a bill of >£500. Can't make out the case numbers on the case back, list them here and we can point you at more info.
If it was a boot sale find for a few quid you will still come out ahead, if you paid >£100 then you possibly won't and it would be worth considering moving on as it is.
Last edited by Padders; 13th January 2018 at 12:03.
Thanks - Caseback reads 166 0173. 3660832
Last edited by lewie; 13th January 2018 at 12:15.
Here you go, it is actually 366.0832 (one 8 not 2):
https://www.omegawatches.com/vintage...erence=3660832
1973-on model with 1012 movement. The one on the site is gold plated, yours clearly not. Of the 2 case numbers you list, yours is likely this since the leading 3 of 366 means integrated bracelet, which yours has, I cant get a hit for the other number on Omega but here is a hit from Google, don't get excited, even a minter would struggle at that price:
https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/...m/9moma000005/
Last edited by Padders; 13th January 2018 at 12:12.
If you want an estimate of the exact year, post the first 3 digit of the serial number on the movement, eg 36m would be circa 1973.
Last edited by Padders; 13th January 2018 at 12:18.
The serial number is missingOriginally Posted by Padders
Ah yes, it would have been on the label in the circle which is clearly not there on the pic you show above. Shame but I would guess at 1973/74 anyhow.
The guy who seemed very genuine says he bought it in '71 but maybe he was mistaken
Unusual to see an automatic with such a worn crown, could be indicative of poor performance.
Is the sticker perhaps stuck in the movement? I had it before that it was stuck next to the mainspring.
Can't see it but the rotor is not that smooth - maybe it under there?
Could well be. If you get it serviced, ask the guy to look out for it.
The 1010/1012 movements aren’t as highly regard as the earlier 550/560 models but, having worked on both, I favour the 1010s. Whether the purists like it or not, they are capable of better performance when in good condition and the design offers several advantages.
The achilles heel, as with the 550s, is the rotor bearing, and this can really be a problem. On the 550 the bearing can be replaced but not on the 1010. The design’s completely different, the rotor bearing is a plain bush that’s integral with the auto winding top bridge. If it’s heavily worn the only answer is a replacement bridge and that’s expensive. Why the bearing isn’t supplied separately is a mystery, it should be easy to press out and replace, but for whatever reason it never has been and it isn’t listed as a separate part.
If there’s evidence of the rotor touching either the movement or. the caseback that's a sign of excessive wear and has to be addressed. The problem can be disguised by bending the rotor away from the movement slightly and fitting a thicker caseback gasket, but this isn’t ideal. Fitting a second- hand bridge in better condition is preferrable, but scrap movements in decent condition are getting more expensive and a lot harder to source...........blame Swatch Group for the problems!
Paul
Last edited by walkerwek1958; 13th January 2018 at 16:16.
Thanks for the replies - not really got the funds to invest in this so will probably flip it
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