Reply With QuoteApply heat and when cool some penetrating oil, if you have enough stud showing use the roller or sealey type extractors rather than drilling the stud center and using easy outs (why are they called that cos they really arn’t).
I have managed to shear of two exhaust studs ( approx 6mm sticking out ) and damage the other 2 studs removing some very rusty J pipes on a VW 1641cc Single port engine.
I would like to remove them in situ, so anyone has some advice as to the best type of stud extractor, failing that I will have to use the weld on a nut method but suspect I will need to dop the engine for that.
Apply heat and when cool some penetrating oil, if you have enough stud showing use the roller or sealey type extractors rather than drilling the stud center and using easy outs (why are they called that cos they really arn’t).
There is not really a best type, it depends on how hard the stud is, how much of the broken stud is sticking out and how badly they are seized in the thread.
6mm isn't a huge amount to get hold of and so you may well struggle with the standard socket roller extractor, theyll probably work for the longer ones that are damaged. A small amount of heat around the base of the thread will ease the removal.
For the broken ones I find the tapered helix extractors best, it does mean drilling a small hole but I've found them very effective especially with a bit of heat.
This is the tapered extractor that I find the most effective however there is a stumpier version which comes on a socket 13mm which is easier to use
Last edited by Franky Four Fingers; 22nd October 2017 at 07:58.
^^^this^^^ Especially with the benefits of the tapered extractor. Make sure you use cutting oil when drilling - makes life easier. (I still have bad dreams about a sheared drill bit inside a sheared bolt - don't ask)Originally Posted by Franky Four Fingers
There is not really a best type, it depends on how hard the stud is, how much of the broken stud is sticking out and how badly they are seized in the thread.
6mm isn't a huge amount to get hold of and so you may well struggle with the standard socket roller extractor, theyll probably work for the longer ones that are damaged. A small amount of heat around the base of the thread will ease the removal.
For the broken ones I find the tapered helix extractors best, it does mean drilling a small hole but I've found them very effective especially with a bit of heat.
This is the tapered extractor that I find the most effective however there is a stumpier version which comes on a socket 13mm which is easier to use
If you want to go with welded-on-nut route, I would first heat the sheared part and hold a candle to the heated bolt (or what's remaining of it). The wax from the candle will find its way down the thread. I even think that there are a few tutorials about that on YT.
I've never heard the candle trick before, proves you learn something everyday in the trade!
As an aside, a 1641cc single-port engine sounds to me like a 1300 (possibly even a 1500) single-port with oversize barrels and pistons, probably of the drop-in type to avoid the need to machine the crankcase or cylinder heads. If so, the cylinder walls will be thinner than a standard engine, and could distort, especially if the engine has to work hard, which it will in a type 2.
I don't wish to urinate on your chips, because it looks as though you've done a good job on the rest of the van, but I would instal VDO oil temperature and pressure gauges (use a dipstick sensor for the temperature gauge), and start collecting parts for an engine rebuild.
Unfortunately wont work withh VW motor in situ. Heat is your friend here, worse case scenario if stud refuses to play drill and tap.
These are very good http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/sc...olt-extractors
And these https://store.snapon.com/Tongue-and-...--P634215.aspx
Last edited by Neilw3030; 22nd October 2017 at 09:07.
Just don’t snap an extractor in the stud. It’s a world of hurt.
These!! If you have some of the stud sticking out these will bite in and remove it! Just give it plenty of heat first so as to avoid snapping it anymore.
I would bite the bullet, and weld a nut to each stud, while you still have the material available.
Bathe in releasol (not wd40!) and use an electric hammer-action drill/socket on the nut. Reason is - vibrating torque (and the higher freq - the better) will shift it if anything can.
I'm not a fan of heat in this situation - as the stud tends to expand slightly more than the surounding casting - making the fit tighter.
Al
Last edited by blackal; 22nd October 2017 at 10:22.
I dunno about that, I've always removed manifolds when hot , if possible. Or at least try to crack the studs/nuts off. Ricks of burns are high, but less Likely to snap somethings off inside the block!
A small amount of heat is absolutely fine with this kind of extraction, in fact id say it was a must.
I have had success with a blow torch and then cool with WD-40 or shock & unlock etc. just give it lots of grief and then mole grips biting down tight on the stud. Depends how much room you have in a way if you can get the moles on sideways to get the leverage needed.
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Mmmm, overlooked that one from where I sit: behind (or is it in front of?) the keys of my MacBook
Menno
Agreed, luckily its not going in my Devon, that still had its original engine.
This is from another (fun ) project.
If the whole assy is hot - you are right.
Heating up the stud........ no
Fair enough. I'd still install oil pressure and temperature gauges. You only have about four and a half pints of oil, you can't hear what the engine's doing very well in a Type 2, and by the time you realise something's wrong it's too late.
Thanks for all the advice and recommendations gents.
I am going to drop the engine, and expect i will be using several if those methods mentioned.
K
The project has such gauges already thankfully.
Though strangely the previous owner didn't think the full tinware and sealing was also a good idea!!!.
I will check the engine code and see what engine it actually is/was.
This is what I have left of the studs
I always weld an old Allan key on and wind them out, never fails
Have you tried the "soak it in Plus Gas and put a Mole wrench on it" method yet?
One of those studs looks ok, the bottom stud in the second picture might have enough thread to put two nuts on, then undo it using a spanner.
My main concern would be that the heads are relatively soft (and easily damaged) aluminium, so you can't use too much force, or too much heat.
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