Reply With QuoteThese are great Jack. I don't have any lip watches but do have a Tallon folding chair!
Maybe I should get a lip to tie in with my design fetish :)
As a bit of Friday distraction I thought I’d do a little write-up on some of the more unusual watches in my collection.
I’ve been intrigued by the Lip watch company for a long time now. They have so much to offer: ground breaking technology (their electro-mechanic movements from the 60s), proper heritage (Cousteau! DeGaulle!), tie-ins with other brands (Lip/Breitling), and interesting design choices. As far as design goes, the Mach 2000 chronograph is probably one of their best known models. Its black, asymmetric case with the round, brightly coloured pushers and crown is unmistakable.
This chronograph was part of a series of watches designed by Roger Tallon in the mid 70s. Tallon is a big name in 20th century French industrial design. He designed everything from motorcycles and cameras to staircases and the TGV bullet train. Lip decided to hire him and a number of other designers in order to give the struggling brand (this was the time of the looming quartz crisis) a much needed boost.
I think (but I’m willing to stand corrected) that Lip was one of the first mainstream watch brands to experiment with watches as a vehicle for designers, rather than just a timepiece. It’s interesting to note that, for example, Seiko’s Giugiaro designs appear to take some design cues from Tallon’s watches about a decade later. At the time, I imagine the use of aluminium for the cases, the peculiar case shape, the unique strap and the instantly recognizable dial and hands were quite the design statement.
Sadly, Tallon’s designs didn’t save the company. The original Lip company went bankrupt in the second part of the 70s. The name was revived a few times. The Mach 2000 collection has been available for at least three periods of time: in the 70s, 80s and 2000s.
I have a few of Tallon’s designs in my collection and thought it would be nice to show them here. I realize that they are a bit Marmite, and have to admit that I don’t wear them that often. I do like them though, mainly as representations of that particular point in time when watch companies (I imagine) were trying to figure out how they could re-define themselves against the backdrop of a market saturated with cheap, mass produced watches.
The first one is the oldest of the three. This has a PUW movement which was first produced in the 70s, so this one may be part of the original run, or an early example of the 80s re-issue. It’s been well-worn, but somehow I think the look still works:
This one has a definite 80s colour scheme and dial design. It’s fitted with an ETA movement:
This is from the same run as the one above, with the same design cues and movement. I wear this one the most:
And all three together:
Any more Mach 2000s (or other design Lips) on the forum?
These are great Jack. I don't have any lip watches but do have a Tallon folding chair!
Maybe I should get a lip to tie in with my design fetish :)
Hamiltons Richard Arbib might claim the designer label maybe?
Love these LIPs, should have bought them years ago when they were still relatively cheap.
Cheers..
Jase
So you have a watch affliction and a design fetish but no Lip? You need one of these! ;)Originally Posted by verv
Arbib is a very good call, didn't think of him when I wrote the above. These watches are still quite affordable I think, although I see more and more eBay chancers and inflated prices.
Jack, these do look great and I can see the Seiko Giugiaro connection. And thanks for such a thoughtful post.
A quick eBay search showed an amazing Valjoux based chrono for £5k ish and a few quartz versions similar to your ETA one (not as nice at first glance) for £87. Are the latter likely to be fake? Just trying to gauge what might be about.
You're quite right! I've always had a soft spot for the nautic ski and hovered a few times. Mind you they're quite different beasts to yours.
I'm off to do some further digging.
I think your watches are cracking designs very reminiscent of the early 80s. I like Braun products of the era, watches, alarm clocks and calculators. Also Aldo Rossi watch, Alessi and the Ross RE 5050 radio. I still carry a Braun calculator around and wear an 80s Aldo Rossi watch, but keep being drawn to EBay and looking at a Lip like yours.
Thanks, an interesting thread.
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Last edited by BillyCasper; 17th September 2017 at 16:33.
You're welcome. The eBay ones are not likely to be fake. The Valjoux based chrono is kind of the holy grail if you're into this kind of watch. It's the original design, from which the other watches were derived. There are many simple ETA quartzes like mine around, even NOS. It's hard to see the difference between the 3 production runs at a glance, but the later they are, the cheaper (as a rule of thumb). 87 GBP is quite cheap; I've seen nice NOS 80s examples go for about 130.
I know what you mean. Still sad that I sold mine:
Very nice. I think the dial on these Lip watches bears some resemblance to the Braun design aesthetic.
I went to the Roger Tallon exhibition last year at the Musée d'Arts Décoratifs - an incredibly prodigious designer - motorbikes, lathes, TVs, typewriters, the Air France terminal at Charles de Gaulle Airport, the TGV - including the seats and even the staff uniforms, and so much more.
I have a couple of LIP Nautic Ski - a mark I and mark II and a LIP T18. Photos are unfortunately stuck in photobucket.
Here's a photo of a famous Mach 2000 wearer.
Funny: that's almost exactly what I don't look like when I wear my Lip. ;)
I'm sorry I missed that exhibition, but fortunately I did see a number of his designs 'in action' so to speak.
I didn't get on with the case height of the mark 1 Nautic Ski, but I do miss my Super Nautic Ski sometimes. I've also sold a few Rudy Meyer designed Lips, which were also very nice.
Last edited by JackW; 15th September 2017 at 18:03.
These are also great watches to itch a design fetish........................
http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.ph...igital-watches
Thanks for the link, what a fantastic thread! Lovely watches too. Incidentally I seriously considered buying a DW30 reissue only a few days ago. You have reignited my interest now. :)
A really interesting read Jack and the kind of thread we need more of - I knew nothing about Lip before so it's fascinating to get some insights. Many thanks.
Simon
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Very nice watches, and a great write up!
Here is an article on the line, sorry it is in French, but it shows some great images.
For some reason I have this as dated 1975.
This is my only Lip watch, an unusual auto with three changeable bezels.
Last edited by bobbee; 8th March 2020 at 10:14. Reason: Reinstating images
Thanks, very interesting! I'm surprised that the 3 hander in the top left picture has a very different strap.
That's from the 90s at a guess? Never saw that one; there's such a huge variety out there!
Very interesting thread, enjoyed reading up on both Lip and Braun.
I bought this off SC recently.
Not Vintage, but I think it's cool !
An affordable addition to the collection too.
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Interesting read, Hidde!
The DW 30 reissues are very well made and quite close to the originals.
I used have quite a few DW30s including the prototype illustrated in my post but now have only 1 left in my collection.
However I do have two NOS DW20s complete with all original boxes etc. One black and one silver - if anyone is interested just PM.
Great read thanks. Had never heard of these watches. Always great to read up on some watches that are brand new to me
That is just lovely, so crisp! Is there anything made these days in a similar style?
The current owners of the brand are turning out some respectable re-editions of classic watches from LIP's history. The Mach 2000 square is only available as a women's watch, but there is this - the Big TV.
Lip still do a rather faithful re-edition of the Mach 2000 line. This one is called the mini square and is marketed as a women's watch:
Can I ask what strap you have on that, suits it really well.
Of course: that's a brown Hirsch Hevea.
Ta very much. Off to browse the web now
Great - the Lip Tallon
A few other brands delivered a similar design - Dugena???
Cracking watches and nice and distinctl
I have a couple of lips (Naitic Ski - grey and blue) but no Tallon
Correct, there were a number of Dugena/Lip co branded watches, including the Mach 2000 range.
Very interesting thread.
The watches have some very nice design elements, though the overall effect is not quite harmonious. I would certainly wear one.
Mitch
Interesting read, Thank you. Great design
Thanks, I think 90's too. I would swap it for a Tallon in a heartbeat though!
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