Reply With QuoteIt may be that the bottom bracket (aka axel) is knackered. Have a look on youtoob, most processes are illustrated on there.
I've got what I thinks a crank click on my boardman-it was cured by Halfords several months ago with some lubricantion
It's returned I've grease everything I can think of and installed new pedals - all I can think of is the crank may need greasing but I've no idea how to remove it
Any help would be appreciated
Untitled by biglewie, on Flickr
It may be that the bottom bracket (aka axel) is knackered. Have a look on youtoob, most processes are illustrated on there.
The bottom bracket is sealed unit and unless you've go the right tools you won't get it out.
A creak could come from some dirt in the join between the left crank arm and the chainring side, so you could take that off, give it a clean, grease and put it back on. It should come off by removing that bold and a bit of gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet.
If it's still noisy swap out the bottom bracket.
It's a single click when I'm out of the saddle going up a very steep hill
Sure it's not your knee?Originally Posted by lewie
it could be the bottom bracket, but it's unlikely, unless the BB has become stiff or grindy.
Are you getting a click or a creaking sound when you turn the cranks, and is it at the same point in the crank rotation?
If it's the crank(s) then the sound is (unfortunately) most often caused by the crank taper being worn. It MAY be possible to cure it by pulling the cranks(*), greasing the taper correctly(**), and installing them to the correct torque. If the crank tapers are worn, your chainline will move slightly inward and you may need to adjust your gearing slightly.
BTW if it is the cranks, then you can thank Halfords for them being knackered. The sound isn't a request for lubrication, it's a request for the cranks to be tightened so they don't squirm on the taper and make a noise.
If my guess is wrong, and it's the BB, you still need special tools to pull most of these, and there are a million different sizes and threads of BBs. Take it to a proper bike shop (i.e., not Halfords).
(*) Re pulling the cranks: remove the crank bolts using a (very big) 8mm Allen key. When the bolts fall out, you will need a crank puller to get the cranks off. If you don't have one, get this done at a proper bike shop (i.e., not Halfords).
(**) The tapers need to be greased only so as to allow the cranks to move up the taper to the correct position during installation.
Please don't recommend a rubber mallet, the cranks will just deform and never fit properly again.
Then it's the crank. You need to do both though, because if one was incorrectly installed, the other is suspect as well.
The crank arm in that picture is self extracting, just get an Allen key and unscrew it. The click could be coming from anywhere. I once had one that was coming from the handlebars.
Make sure your pedals are lubed, maybe them giving you the click. Worth s go before you get the bb replaced.
I've been building and wrecking bikes all my life, but I don't know how to recognise a self-extracting crank bolt from a picture. Would you be so kind as to tell me what to look for?
Thanks all - I'm sure it's not handlebars, seatpost or rails(both greased) front and rear drop outs cleaned and greased, new pedals
I cant tell from the picture which type of BB it is.
PF30 and BB30 are notorious it seems - I've been having creaking issues since new on my PF30.
Take both cranks off and degrease the axle tapers and the internal surface of the crank tapers. Check that the chainring bolts are tight, an allen key alone can often do this, but you may also need the correct tool for the rear, usually a two pronged tool, or circlip pliers will sometimes work. Refit the cranks without greasing. Don't worry, the "grease the taper/don't grease it" debate is as old as cycling. Shimano say do, Campag say don't. I've been putting bikes together over 40 years and never had a problem with not greasing.
F.T.F.A.
Had the same issue. Turns out it was the botton bracket bearings moving slightly in the housing. Stripped down the bottom bracket and reassembled using Loctite. Never had it again.
It looks like an old school tapered one possibly FSA.
Take it to a bike shop, unless you have a puller and the correct BB tool you are just going to have an exercise in frustration.
I would check the chain ring bolts though, had a few work lose and cause a creak before.
Looks like an ISIS bottom bracket to me. If it is you'll need the right size Allen key to take the end caps off, then use a crank pulling tool to get the arms off. Then you'll need the right bottom bracket tool to remove the bb (and in my experience they are a nightmare to get off).
Not looked at the pic but the BB30 is renowned for creaking, strip it and degrease thoroughly.
You are likely to need a special tool to remove the crank though.
Normally I wouldn't bother with such a smug reply, but since you have directly contradicted me I am going to explain this to you for your edification, and so you will stop repeating this preposterous myth.
You realise that the taper press fit is a standard connector in engineering, right? In every other application (machine tools, power systems, etc) it is standard operating procedure to grease the tapers before assembly to ensure that the assembly torque is measured against the elastic load on the fitting, and not against friction.
There's nothing magically exceptional about bicycle engineering, although to read the stuff people write you'd think they believe it. If you really believe it, then assemble all the other joints on your bicycles dry, and see how that works out.
Next thing you'll explain to me how the weight of the bicycle hangs from the top spokes....
That would have been more helpful if it hadn't already been explained more than once....
It's also worth undoing and greasing the chainring bolts. It's cured clicking a couple of times for me.
Be warned. You could just end up interminably chasing the click all around your bike!
^^^^ this.
Took me ages to locate mine. Initially thought BB or crank arm. Up on a stand I couldn't hear it but any significant power transfer and it came to the fore. Turned out to be a single stiff link on the chain.
Bloody things, bikes!
Had the same creaking issue. It was the bottom bracket (BB30). Easy enough to replace yourself. Mine was anyway.
It could also be any other part of the drivetrain,how old's the rear cassette,could be rear hub,worn chain or jockey wheels.
Whats the actual model of the bike and we can check online what components its running ?
Also, make sure your rearwheel QR is done up tight enough, many a creak and click has come from a QR not being tweaked up.
And the front wheel skewer. I finally tracked down a creak which only happened in an out of the saddle effort by reaching down on the move, in a Eureka moment, & releasing my front wheel's quick release. Seat post is another possible culprit
check that you haven't got a chain roller with a dink in it and your chainrings are tight and that there are no damaged teeth on the drive ring.
Lots of things that go click can sound like cranks.
B
Mine always clicks away after cycling in wet weather.... its dirt and grit that gets in the gaps of the crank and shaft
you need to undo the hex nuts then use a crank puller (buy one they are cheeap enough) and the cranks will come off - get the right one for your cranks etc...
give everything a damn good clean (the cranks holes too) compressed air, etc.. and reassemble - grease away if only to keep the grit out next time you cycle in wet weather, may never click again who knows
if the 'clicks' don't go away then it will be perhaps one of the bearings on the bottom bracket so if thats got some fair few miles on it get that replaced...
then you need one of these:
also cheap you may want to remove your existing BB anyway and give that a clean and copper grease it before putting it back in (the bearings are sealed, the copper grease will be to stop grit getting in and making it easy to remove in the future)
Last edited by Xantiagib; 23rd August 2017 at 14:40.
I'm sure this is the problem
Thanks all for the replies- I tried to trace it a little today- seems to be a click, click
I think I'll take it to a local bike shop - I'm sure it's not a major problem but just bugs me
Does that make it less true?
If it really is a loose crank, it's a potentially major problem. The time they let go is when you are standing on the pedals and pushing hard => faceplant. Whatever it is, the shop will have seen it before.
I have a two inch scare from a crank letting go on my leg from 17 year ago 😖 Well correction when the crank arm let go
...and you haven't owned a bike until you have bludgeoned a seized bottom bracket crank bearing out of its rusted-up-welded-to-the-crank-tube existence with a large hammer and what seemed like litres of anti-seize spray
easier to buy a new frame I tell you
Posting Permissions
