closing tag is in template navbar
timefactors watches



TZ-UK Fundraiser
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 54

Thread: Improving strap making...

  1. #1

    Improving strap making...

    I've not made a strap in a while but this was this morning's effort. I think I'm improving

    Fairly small lug width on this (17mm) so tapered to 16mm at the buckle.






  2. #2
    That looks like a splendid strap, albeit perhaps a little too thick for that particular watch.

  3. #3
    Grand Master Velorum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    .
    Posts
    14,132
    Thats a lovely looking strap

    I agree that it doesnt quite go with that elegant Breitling though ☺
    Last edited by Velorum; 7th November 2016 at 09:52.

  4. #4
    Very nice work. Having spent some time making nylon straps and now experimenting with leather I know how very difficult it is to produce something even half presentable let alone something like that. 1mm out on a line of stitching and it sticks out a mile on a small item like a watch strap. Great stuff.

  5. #5
    Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    ' EXEMPLO DUCEMUS '
    Posts
    5,794
    Very well done. I wish I was that artistic.

  6. #6
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    801
    always feels better wearing something DIY, how do you finish the edges?

  7. #7


    The fruits of this afternoons labour. Quite pleased with the results

  8. #8
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    519
    Nicely done

  9. #9
    Slowly but surely improving. Decided to line this one in natural calf and polish the edges but leave them natural colour also for a bit of contrast.




  10. #10
    Lovely work, can I ask where you buy your leather from? Is it Veg Tan or do you buy something else? What thickness is the leather on the last (black) strap, 2mm?

  11. #11
    Master kungfugerbil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Whitby (not the one in Ontario)
    Posts
    6,838
    Quote Originally Posted by triumph coupe View Post
    Slowly but surely improving. Decided to line this one in natural calf
    I really like that one, well done. The visual contrast is excellent and the construction looks solid. Top stuff

  12. #12
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Wales
    Posts
    804
    Quote Originally Posted by jammie*dodger View Post
    Lovely work, can I ask where you buy your leather from? Is it Veg Tan or do you buy something else? What thickness is the leather on the last (black) strap, 2mm?
    I believe the very dark brown is English Cordovan that came from Claytons (and that shell was around 1.8-2mm thick depending on where you measured on the shell - we went halves on the shell). Think the keeper's blue bridle, which Nick was good enough to send me a piece of - that I made this from ..



    I'll let TC comment on where the lining comes from..

    al

  13. #13
    Yes, Al has it spot on. The dark brown (it's not black) was a piece of Cordovan that Al and I went halves on. The blue is some Bridle from Claytons. The calf, I don't remember where I got it from - I tried all sorts of places looking for suitable leather.

  14. #14
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    582
    Good work. It's coming along nicely.

    Did you try Aacrack for leather. I've just place a new order with them today

  15. #15
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Wales
    Posts
    804
    Quote Originally Posted by Petewon View Post
    Good work. It's coming along nicely.

    Did you try Aacrack for leather. I've just place a new order with them today
    .. did inquire with AaCrack about genuine cordovan - indeed. Further research turned up Claytons tannery and the fact that English cordovan is a thing .. which whilst it isn't quite Horween, its very close and has the benefit of coming in some colours Horween don't do (or at best very hard to find - e.g blue/green)..

    The bridle above as used on the cordovan keeper and on my all blue middle stitched strap, requires some patience to skive thin.

    al

  16. #16
    Master kungfugerbil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Whitby (not the one in Ontario)
    Posts
    6,838
    Quote Originally Posted by alslater View Post
    Further research turned up Claytons tannery and the fact that English cordovan is a thing
    I don't know if you have been but if you get a chance it's well worth picking up your cordovan shells on site as you get to have a proper rummage and pick exactly what your after. Quite a unique smell on the floor...

    Crack do some sublime Italian veg tan calf, or at least used to. Beautiful stuff

  17. #17
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Wales
    Posts
    804
    Quote Originally Posted by kungfugerbil View Post
    I don't know if you have been but if you get a chance it's well worth picking up your cordovan shells on site as you get to have a proper rummage and pick exactly what your after. Quite a unique smell on the floor...

    Crack do some sublime Italian veg tan calf, or at least used to. Beautiful stuff
    I bet ... definitely will get something from them at some stage - but didn't want half the cow turning up, much as per your prior picture of what one's better halves might not like landing on the kitchen floor as per http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.ph...ild-lesson-one ..

    for small practice lumps - leather4craft have a very interesting range - I've worked my way round most of their horween stuff they do (derby and rust both superb)..

    al

  18. #18
    Thanks both for the info. most of the stuff I have for sheath making is much thicker - think its time to do some shopping ;)

  19. #19
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    582
    Quote Originally Posted by alslater View Post
    The bridle above as used on the cordovan keeper and on my all blue middle stitched strap, requires some patience to skive thin.

    al
    Ive just bought one of those new manual skiving machines. It's taking a bit of getting used to but ideal for getting straps.down to the right thinkness.

  20. #20
    Master Yorkshiremadmick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Yorkshire man in Northumberland
    Posts
    2,583
    Quote Originally Posted by triumph coupe View Post


    The fruits of this afternoons labour. Quite pleased with the results
    This looks excellent I bet it looks better on the wrist (hints)


    Michael
    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  21. #21
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Wales
    Posts
    804
    Quote Originally Posted by triumph coupe View Post
    Yes, Al has it spot on. The dark brown (it's not black) was a piece of Cordovan ..
    ... With rather some trepidation, I went for an unlined simple strap to start on my half..



    (Ritza cream thread, edges browned)

    al


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  22. #22
    Looking good Al!

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Petewon View Post
    Ive just bought one of those new manual skiving machines. It's taking a bit of getting used to but ideal for getting straps.down to the right thinkness.
    Did you buy one of the wide ones or one of the cheap ones that use de razor blades (clearly will only split 2" wide but could be wide enough for straps?)

    Any photos?

  24. #24
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    582
    Yeah, it's just one of the ones that use de blades. It took a bit of getting used to but works well for straps. I did look at buying a propper one but they are quite pricey.

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Petewon View Post
    Yeah, it's just one of the ones that use de blades. It took a bit of getting used to but works well for straps. I did look at buying a propper one but they are quite pricey.
    That's encouraging. I had the same thought process. Mine arrived a week ago and I've successfully chopped a bunch of leather in half (not good) and split a very short piece.

    Obviously there is a technique that I've not discovered yet!

  26. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Yorkshiremadmick View Post
    This looks excellent I bet it looks better on the wrist (hints)


    Michael
    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app
    You're very kind! It wears well and the bridle is pretty durable but nice to wear.


  27. #27
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Wales
    Posts
    804
    A bit more practice is a good thing, right ..?



    ... KS on horween Derby, Nomos on English cordovan ..

    al


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Velorum View Post
    Thats a lovely looking strap

    I agree that it doesn't quite go with that elegant Breathing though ☺
    I've tried to remedy this... an improvement in my eyes. At 17mm it is a small strap. Next time I think I'll use a thinner thread, this one is a bit thick for 10 spi.


  29. #29
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    368
    Looks good! I did a couple of straps myself some years ago, just did not find enough time anymore.

    I think it is a great feeling to wear a watch band that you actually made yourself. Keep up the good work!

  30. #30
    Amazing what you can do with the wife old briefcase (which was made out of some extremely soft natural coloured leather)





    I think that with each one they get better.

  31. #31
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Wales
    Posts
    804
    That's a good looking thing - bridle on the back ..?
    ( thread type ..? And was that with the Blanchard iron for the holes..? ... Edge finishing ? )

    al

  32. #32
    Thanks Al

    Yes, the bridle to line (skived fairly thin).
    Blanchard irons and stitched with 0.51mm au chinois in brick colour (not as red as I hoped when I ordered it)

    Edges just hand bufnished and died darker. The briefcase leather was very soft so not easy to burnish. The photo actually has loads of green fluff on the edges from where I gave it a last polish with shoe polish (the strap equivalent of photographs with fingerprints on watches 😂)

  33. #33
    Master kungfugerbil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Whitby (not the one in Ontario)
    Posts
    6,838
    Quote Originally Posted by triumph coupe View Post
    I think that with each one they get better.
    I should say so!

    Great job :)

  34. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by kungfugerbil View Post
    I should say so!

    Great job :)
    😊 That means a great deal to hear that from you. Thanks

  35. #35
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Londinium/Baldockious
    Posts
    268
    All looking good...

    Is there a special awl for doing the side stitching holes and how on earth do you get the spacing right going around the tip?!

    (Incidentally, I was at a Leathersellers' livery thing last night (a charity networking thing) and there was talk about their support of charities using leather crafts/product-making skills with various client groups.)

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by khumzi View Post
    All looking good...

    Is there a special awl for doing the side stitching holes and how on earth do you get the spacing right going around the tip?!

    (Incidentally, I was at a Leathersellers' livery thing last night (a charity networking thing) and there was talk about their support of charities using leather crafts/product-making skills with various client groups.)
    Yes, a special awl is used with a diamond profile that allows the slanty stitching to be done.

    The spacing of the stitches is either marked with a pricking wheel or by using pricking irons (I use irons).

    The awl is in the middle of the two pricking irons that I have, in the photo below. I use the 2 prong iron for the point of the strap where the curve needs to be madd


  37. #37
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Londinium/Baldockious
    Posts
    268
    Brilliant, thank you so much. Love to learn!

  38. #38
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    582
    They are coming along very nicely. Try some Tokonol on those edges if they are proving difficult to burnish. It sticks the fibres down very well, great stuff.

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Petewon View Post
    They are coming along very nicely. Try some Tokonol on those edges if they are proving difficult to burnish. It sticks the fibres down very well, great stuff.
    Is it any better than gum trag?

  40. #40
    Nut coloured Horween with blue stitch. Lined in vintage natural leather showing a lovely patina (it was a very expensive briefcase that my wife has had for a decade, now living another life)




    20/18 in size

  41. #41
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Londinium/Baldockious
    Posts
    268
    Both gorgeous, especially the ex-briefcase! Nice work. (I've got a lovely saddle leather tan briefcase which I've had for 30 years. Still a long way off from needing to be re-incarnated!)

  42. #42
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    582
    That's looking really good. The stitching is great, is that a 632 thread?

  43. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Petewon View Post
    That's looking really good. The stitching is great, is that a 632 thread?
    Thanks.

    I feel like my stitching is getting there. I need to fine tune the edge creasing a bit, but it's fun learning.

    It's 532. First time I've tried that gauge and I think it works. I have some 632 which is marginally thinner and again seems to work well with the SPI of my irons.

    I initially bought some 332 and it's a bit thick. Shame as I've still got the spool and they aren't cheap.

  44. #44
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    582
    Which creaser are you using. I've got a few and find some really difficult to use. Yeah the lin cable can be pricey, I've found a place that does 632 for £18 which is a steal compared to the usual £30+.

  45. #45
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South Wales
    Posts
    804
    Sajou do small cards of 532 for around 3-4 ukp - postage is a bit stiff but order five at a go and it isn't too bad for 10m worth ...

    al

  46. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Petewon View Post
    Which creaser are you using. I've got a few and find some really difficult to use. Yeah the lin cable can be pricey, I've found a place that does 632 for £18 which is a steal compared to the usual £30+.
    I'm using a CS Osborne edge creaser like this one:

    https://hwebber.co.uk/shop/c-s-osbor...-creaser-tool/

    It's not easy to use at all (must be a technique that I am yet to master).

    I've been edge bevelling also, but again that can be a bit tricky on some of the softer leathers (I didn't edge bevel on the latest strap with blue stitching above, just creased).

    £18 for a spool is decent value. Care to share your source?? :)

  47. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by triumph coupe View Post
    Nut coloured Horween with blue stitch. Lined in vintage natural leather showing a lovely patina (it was a very expensive briefcase that my wife has had for a decade, now living another life)




    20/18 in size
    Very nice indeed!

    Out of interest, and apologies if you've said this before, but how are you cutting the strap itself - using a form, a plough gauge, freehand, or some other method?

  48. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by willie_gunn View Post
    Very nice indeed!

    Out of interest, and apologies if you've said this before, but how are you cutting the strap itself - using a form, a plough gauge, freehand, or some other method?
    I draw the shape that I need on the reverse of the face leather (I've drawn around straps I like the size of, I've made a template from card and drawn around that and I've also just measured and drawn free-ish hand, just depends how I feel). Then a just cut using a saddlers round knife. I understand the mass production way is to use a clicker press and a stamp to stamp out lovely regular strap shapes.

  49. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by triumph coupe View Post
    I draw the shape that I need on the reverse of the face leather (I've drawn around straps I like the size of, I've made a template from card and drawn around that and I've also just measured and drawn free-ish hand, just depends how I feel). Then a just cut using a saddlers round knife. I understand the mass production way is to use a clicker press and a stamp to stamp out lovely regular strap shapes.
    Many thanks.

    I have a store of leather - including some exotics - that I've been using for other items such as knife sheaths and phone covers, but this thread has got me thinking about giving a watch strap a go.

    I was going to try the freehand method but was convinced there there must be another way, as the straps in this thread all look so amazingly professional!

  50. #50
    Master .olli.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Hampshire
    Posts
    2,157
    I have only just come across this thread, as I don't typically check this part of the forum very often. That is impressive work, and great upcycling!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Do Not Sell My Personal Information