Reply With QuoteIf there's anything solid, you could use 2 pack filler (exterior grade) failing that, you could easily splice new sills in.
Looks like we've left painting the windows a bit late. Any ideas on where I can get replacements for the sill as the rest of the window frame seems ok.
Thanks
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If there's anything solid, you could use 2 pack filler (exterior grade) failing that, you could easily splice new sills in.
Nothing solid just crumbles when you touch it.Originally Posted by bomberman
It looks like that part is a separate piece but couldn't see anything on the web that would fit the bill.
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Cut a section out and take it down to your local timber merchant, they should have some profiles that woould do it with a bit of jiggling
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
Agree with above if there's enough meat for you to rebate/splice the drip section on the sill on.
A decent local carpenter should be able to do this and not charge the earth.
We had the same with a couple of windows. We found a local carpenter who did a splicing job on the sills which held things at bay for a few years. He did a section about 60cm long for about GBP60 if I recall correctly. Most of the windows were very old and wooden frames seem to need painting at least every decade.
After a few issues with some of the other windows we got wooden-framed double glazing throughout, from a local company. The firm replicated the exact look of the originals. I'm not suggesting you need that, however, if it is just one sill. A skilled carpenter can fix what you have photographed.
Nice to take care of what is already there.
No need to say make sure you get hardwood
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
It doesn't automatically follow that a hardwood is more durable or less prone to rot in exposed conditions. A good quality softwood like red deal would fare better than some hardwoods. Whatever timber is used, proper painting and ongoing maintenance are key to longevity.
The company we got in offered three or four different types of wood. Without looking at the filed-away paperwork I don't recall which wood we went for - after much research, but it was the priciest option out of the hard woods. They also offered a plastic product that "looks like wood" for about 15% of the price... It looked horrible, and living in a "conservation area" I think we would have got some legitimate hassle. Speaking to the installers, no customer has ever chosen those plastic ones.
But our chap that started this thread requires just a sill, so a local artisan can do a good job dealing with that. I mentioned the complete replacement because most of ours showed some wear-and-tear, to put it mildly, after a century or so. The newer ones, from I guess the 1980s were almost as bad as the older ones.
Western Red Cedar, a softwood, is very durable and painted every five years or so should last forever.
Thanks for all the replies guys few options to consider now :)
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I've replaced a number of these over the years - the entire s/cill is buggered, it might be a separate piece (if you're lucky, as the rot often is much worse in the sill section) if it is a separate piece it will be probably be fastened with three long screws that will be rebated - you may see the rebate holes under the sill. Often the sill is really rotten and hacking into is very easy so that you can easily determine if it is a separate item. You will need to cut back to 'firm 'wood which will inevitable be close to the point where the glass makes contact with the wood and possibly the entire section including internal (although I've found that this is not as drastic as it sounds). You can cut back with a good old hammer and chisel or use a reciplicationg saw and fit a new piece of wood to match the existing profile - take a template of the cross section before starting work. Start with paper, if need be, and end up with a sturdy card template. Use this template to obtain/form a new sill section. Treat the remaining wood with preservative/wood hardener, use epoxy to make good any small section not fully conforming to the new cross section, if required. Screw and bound the new section of wood into place with epoxy. If you have managed to get this far then you will be keen to treat the new section primer/undercoat/topcoat and then admire the fruits of your labour!
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