Help case back removal

[Deanusrjm]

Trying to change the battery on my quartz Chris Ward and finding it impossible to get the back unscrewed... any tips would be much appreciated as it just won't budge!!






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[ordo]

Usually they are screwed in tight so I can understand that it can be difficult.

Let me tell you what I do in these situations. I take a towel and grip the watch in my hand with it. I hold it between the lugs and keep the crown towards my other hand so as to minimize potential damage. I also try not to press my palm on the crystal so as not to damage it.

Then I position the tool's teeth on the case back and try to position and retract them in such a way that the whole thing won't fly away and scratch the case back.

Then I just slowly try to apply force and eventually it starts to nudge.

The reason I use a towel is because it's quite thick, it's soft and it creates a larger grip for my hand since the watch itself is small (usually). Hope it helps!

[JGJG]

A soft-jaw vice is extremely useful in these circumstances. More power plus more control.

[Deanusrjm]

Usually they are screwed in tight so I can understand that it can be difficult.

Let me tell you what I do in these situations. I take a towel and grip the watch in my hand with it. I hold it between the lugs and keep the crown towards my other hand so as to minimize potential damage. I also try not to press my palm on the crystal so as not to damage it.

Then I position the tool's teeth on the case back and try to position and retract them in such a way that the whole thing won't fly away and scratch the case back.

Then I just slowly try to apply force and eventually it starts to nudge.

The reason I use a towel is because it's quite thick, it's soft and it creates a larger grip for my hand since the watch itself is small (usually). Hope it helps!

Thanks Ordo this is helpful... I'm giving it another try using your advice. It is ridiculously tight so much so hat I'm wondering if I'm turning the right way.

It is anti clockwise as I look at the case back right?


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[Deanusrjm]

Got it! Scratched the back a little but the between lugs grip and towel did the trick.

Thanks so much for taking the time to reply!


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[AKM]

It's after the fact but it's usually better to use a case holder - they are an adjustable plastic block with nylon studs that rest against the lugs. The holder can go in a vice. This way the watch is supported and secure, doing it all with just your hands usually only works for dress watches where the back isn't particularly tight.

Using a jaxa type tool will usually have a longer handle and be able to apply more force than the one you have.

If you open a lot of diver watches then there's another rig which has a base and a wheel to turn so that it is all done by 'machine' with no hand tools​ that can slip.

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[Kozzy]

If you open a lot of diver watches then there's another rig which has a base and a wheel to turn so that it is all done by 'machine' with no hand tools​ that can slip.

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The Bergeon 5700-Z is great. It's really remarkable how much easier it is than using a hand tool.

[Deanusrjm]

Thanks I need to invest for next time


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[Deanusrjm]

My CW is back together and getting some wrist time today.


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[walkerwek1958]

I use a case clamp and Jaxa tool. Initially I hold the case clamp down firmly on the bench and try to open the back , applying force downwards to prevent the tool slipping. The trick is to know how much twist you can apply, try too hard and the tool will slip. If it still won't move I put the case clamp into a 6" vice, clamp it firmly, then use the jaxa tool whist pressing down hard with the palm of my hand. whilst pressing down hard I twist the tool slightly, and that invariably gets the back moving. It's vital to put more downward pressure on than twisting, that prevents the tool from slipping.

Worst I ever came across was a TAG Aquaracer which had been seriously overtightened. The threads were damaged too............previous work had been carried out by TAG!

Casebacks get overtightened in a futile attempt to correct a leaking caseback, if the correct gasket's fitted and it's in decent condition it shouldn't be necessary to overtighten the back. I put them back on with a sticky ball, using a tool for the final 'nip', if the case isn't watertight around the caseback there's something wrong and overtightening won't correct it. The caseback starts to get tight when the gasket is compressed and the caseback contacts the metal case. Further tightening will increase tension in the threads, it won't compress the gasket further so it's completely pointless.

The exception to this rule is when the caseback and sealing area are pitted ( a problem with old watches). Sometimes using a marginally thicker 0 ring will enable the watch to be sealed. However, it may not be possible to get the caseback to screw fully home (metal to metal contact) owing to the thicker gasket. The trick is to do the back up reasonably tight to get maximum compression of the O ring and hope it'll seal the pitted areas. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but I take the view that any water resistance ( even less than 0.5 bar) is better than none!

Don't forget to give the gasket a light smear of silicone grease. Theoretically it doesn't help the sealing, it prevents the caseback dragging the gasket out if position.

Paul