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Thread: PRS17-C Battery change

  1. #1
    Master
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    PRS17-C Battery change

    Hi

    Need to change the battery as the PRS17-C as went to put it on this morning and all the hands were dead, chromo functions not working etc.

    Is there a step-by-step guide as to how to do this? I did have a look at some older posts here and there was talk to not removing a small screw as it would fly out!

    I have a case opener that should work on this case, but is there anything I need to know or be aware off - do I need to put anything on the seal for example?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Craftsman
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    The head of one of my screws sheared off when I went to loosen it so the rest of the screw is in the hole and can't be removed. So don't do that.

  3. #3
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by bambam View Post
    Hi

    Need to change the battery as the PRS17-C as went to put it on this morning and all the hands were dead, chromo functions not working etc.

    Is there a step-by-step guide as to how to do this? I did have a look at some older posts here and there was talk to not removing a small screw as it would fly out!

    I have a case opener that should work on this case, but is there anything I need to know or be aware off - do I need to put anything on the seal for example?

    Thanks.
    Hi

    You just need a caseback opener and a very fine flat bladed screwdriver. Remove the caseback and you'll see the battery, held in place by a clamp. Both ends of the clamp are slotted, so to make refitting easier, you can just undo the screws far enough so that you can slide the clamp out to get the battery out. I've had a PRS17-C for 8-9 years and so have done this a couple of times - the difficult bit has been finding a fine enough screwdriver - in the past I've had to sharpen the tip of a jewellers screwdriver on some wet & dry to get the tip narrow enough to fit the slot in the screwhead

    On refitting, I normally lubricate the caseback o-ring with a very small amount of silicone grease - just enough so that it has a fine coating and no more.

    HTH

    Steve

  4. #4
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevoc View Post
    Hi

    You just need a caseback opener and a very fine flat bladed screwdriver. Remove the caseback and you'll see the battery, held in place by a clamp. Both ends of the clamp are slotted, so to make refitting easier, you can just undo the screws far enough so that you can slide the clamp out to get the battery out. I've had a PRS17-C for 8-9 years and so have done this a couple of times - the difficult bit has been finding a fine enough screwdriver - in the past I've had to sharpen the tip of a jewellers screwdriver on some wet & dry to get the tip narrow enough to fit the slot in the screwhead

    On refitting, I normally lubricate the caseback o-ring with a very small amount of silicone grease - just enough so that it has a fine coating and no more.

    HTH

    Steve
    Thanks. The battery is on order so should be with me soon. I have some small screwdrivers - but we'll see if they are small enough soon... I didn't realise that you had to actually remove the clamp so that is useful to know.

    I don't think I have any silicon grease though - anything else I can use? Or is it more of a safety precaution?

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Silicone grease keeps the o-ring supple and stops it cracking over time, also it makes it more pliable so it seals better.

    Personally wouldn't change a battery without putting a bit on, as it definitely extends the longevity. I do a bit of engineering, and where we've installed conduit with o-ring seals, before my time as I always grease them, I've seen them fail due to cracking as they perish when not looked after.

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/servisol-m...50g-tube-re90x

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jounetsu View Post
    Silicone grease keeps the o-ring supple and stops it cracking over time, also it makes it more pliable so it seals better.

    Personally wouldn't change a battery without putting a bit on, as it definitely extends the longevity. I do a bit of engineering, and where we've installed conduit with o-ring seals, before my time as I always grease them, I've seen them fail due to cracking as they perish when not looked after.

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/servisol-m...50g-tube-re90x
    Thanks for that. I have the battery now so will get some silicone grease as well.

    Cheers

  7. #7
    Master
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    Finally got round to doing this!

    Took a while longer than I thought it would - isn't that always the case?

    Didn't lose any screws, though one did come out completely when I thought I'd only loosened it. God they're small! Had to dig out a magnifying glass. Managed to find it and put the clamp back on. The hardest part was putting the clamp back and fitting the ends into the screws to tighten up.

    Bit of silicon grease onto the O ring and tighten back up.

    Seems to be working well now that I've re-set the time. Thanks for the advice.

  8. #8

    new batt

    Just put in a new batt on my PRS 17C and it was not too hard. Paid about $3 for a new Everready on eBay.

  9. #9
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    Annoyingly a jewellers over tightened one of the battery strap screws on mine and it sheared coming out the next time. I can still get a reliable connection but it's annoying all the same. So beware, don't over tighten the screws.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeremy67 View Post
    Annoyingly a jewellers over tightened one of the battery strap screws on mine and it sheared coming out the next time. I can still get a reliable connection but it's annoying all the same. So beware, don't over tighten the screws.
    Same thing happened to me, see 2nd post in this thread. My 17c was one of the ones found by Eddie so assume it was him that changed the battery Will need to get it sorted as one of the subdials has stopped working altogether too for some reason. Probably cheaper to get a new movement.
    Last edited by GuyIncognito; 20th November 2017 at 16:06.

  11. #11
    Might only need a new battery, I've a few watches with the same movement and often the first sign is a subdial not registering.

    A circuit failing can also cause it, I believe they can be swapped out.

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