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Thread: Rolex Sub 14060M

  1. #1
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
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    Rolex Sub 14060M

    Is this the perfect blend of vintage looks and modern usability? I'm thinking of cashing in a few chips and going for one as it seems to tick a lot of boxes for me but am I missing any obvious flaws?

    All thoughts welcome

  2. #2
    Master
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    It is a superb watch, have no doubt! Buy without fear if you fancy one.

    H

  3. #3
    Master reggie747's Avatar
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    Prices have snowballed John as you're probably aware...

  4. #4
    Master Gavbaz's Avatar
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    Definitely my favourite Submariner. Cash in those chips!

  5. #5
    Master
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    If by "vintage looks" you mean hollow end links and lug holes, I suspect so. If you're willing to forgo those attributes, I think 16600 Sea Dweller is a compelling alternative, along with the 16710 GMT.

  6. #6
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haywood_Milton View Post
    It is a superb watch, have no doubt! Buy without fear if you fancy one.

    H
    Thanks Haywood. It just looks like the perfect Sub to my eyes – drilled lugs, two-line text (pre-COSC), no date, sapphire glass, etc.

    I can't do the vintage minefield route so the 14060M seems the obvious choice. I'll be in touch, without feeling entitled to the fount of your knowledge

  7. #7
    Awesome watch. Go For It
    It's just a matter of time...

  8. #8
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reggie747 View Post
    Prices have snowballed John as you're probably aware...
    I know, I know, which is why I'm thinking now would be a good time before it gets really silly.

  9. #9
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    They're great. But the 16800 imo just edges it for vintage looks if you can get hold of a matte dial.

  10. #10
    Master reggie747's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onelasttime View Post
    before it gets really silly.
    It's bonkers already man hahaha

  11. #11
    Master
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    Cool

    The no-date sub is a great watch.

  12. #12
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    Only drawback I found with the 14060 was the poor fit on a fairly small 6.75" wrist. I couldn't get the 6 side short enough to centralise the clasp and the watch wouldn't sit properly. The last link ajoining the clasp is slightly shorter on the 16610 and that fitted fine. The difference is only around 3-4 mm but it makes a big difference on a smaller wrist. If my wrists were slightly bigger I would've kep my 14060, but I ended up selling it because it never felt right. Other than that it's the best of the Subs IMO.

    Paul

  13. #13
    I don't think you could possibly go wrong with a non date sub, especially on a Nato strap. I favoured mine on a Rubber B strap.
    Still wish I didn't move it on!

  14. #14
    Master Gullers's Avatar
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    A great balanced look I think. Better symmetry than the date version


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  15. #15
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    Only drawback I found with the 14060 was the poor fit on a fairly small 6.75" wrist. I couldn't get the 6 side short enough to centralise the clasp and the watch wouldn't sit properly. The last link ajoining the clasp is slightly shorter on the 16610 and that fitted fine. The difference is only around 3-4 mm but it makes a big difference on a smaller wrist. If my wrists were slightly bigger I would've kep my 14060, but I ended up selling it because it never felt right. Other than that it's the best of the Subs IMO.

    Paul
    Most of the five digits are similar. I break a permanent link on the short side. It's much more comfortable.

  16. #16
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    Beaut!

    Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    The bracelet rattles which I find very charming in a modern rolex.

    Superb choice.

  18. #18
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowdon View Post
    The bracelet rattles which I find very charming in a modern rolex.

    Superb choice.
    Most times, any rattle can be cured very quickly and easily. If you're near me, fancy letting me have a go at yours for free?

    H

  19. #19
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    I think you should.



    scooter
    Last edited by scooter; 24th January 2017 at 10:43.

  20. #20
    Craftsman
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    I have been after one and have a post in the WTB section for one.

    last of the classic look and imo will be >£7k if we keep waiting it will follow the LV and they are £7.5 to 15k now.

    NOS were £6k and now £8k within 8 or so months.

    A mint one now is £4.5k to £5.5k depending how mint and how much a full set you want.

    NOS well for me out of range , I wish I got a NOS one 6 months back for £6k.

    cheaper in euro land even with the poor £ rate the 14060m is riding high in the UK atm.

    £4.2k gets you a box and papers mint one from most euro places.

  21. #21
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scooter View Post
    I think you should.



    scooter
    I have to admit Scooter, whenever I see yours over on CWF I always think 'That's the Sub I want'. Lovely

  22. #22
    Master Dr Wolff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP Chestnut View Post
    Most of the five digits are similar. I break a permanent link on the short side. It's much more comfortable.
    Which one? The link nearest the clasp is an odd one so does the next link connect ok? I would prefer one link less on the short side but it doesn't seem possible, as you say, without breaking it.

  23. #23
    My favourite Sub.......you should try to get hold of one as quickly as you can.

  24. #24
    Craftsman maxwellwd's Avatar
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    My favourite watch, I have one of the very last of the four liners dated 2013. Wear it the most out of all of my collection, goes with everything and perfectly timeless. The one watch I think I would keep if I decided to sell the lot

    Sent from The Isle Of Sheppey

  25. #25
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    awesome watch! definitely go for it if you have the means

  26. #26
    Master colin t's Avatar
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    I'm a fan, I don't wear mine very often but I wouldn't think of parting with it....


  27. #27
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP Chestnut View Post
    Most of the five digits are similar. I break a permanent link on the short side. It's much more comfortable.
    How do you get one of the fixed links apart? I`ve heard it can be done but never fancied trying it. I tried getting the fixed links on an Omega SMP bracelet apart and gave up!

    Paul

  28. #28
    Craftsman
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    Lovely watch, a great all-rounder. Some will call it a bit dull, but then it would not be as versatile as it is without being understated.

  29. #29
    Journeyman submorstua's Avatar
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    Great watch. I agree with JP Chestnut though, I've been wanting a 16600 or 16660 for a long time.


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  30. #30
    Craftsman
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    Great watch, but when I had to decide what to get more than 9 years ago, I opted for the 16600 and I am very happy with the choice.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

  31. #31
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Wolff View Post
    Which one? The link nearest the clasp is an odd one so does the next link connect ok? I would prefer one link less on the short side but it doesn't seem possible, as you say, without breaking it.
    There are actually two ways to do it, though I've only tried one. What I do - remove all removable links and then break the first non-removable one on the short side of the bracelet. Then you just screw in the link that's attached to the clasp to make four links on the short side.

    Alternately, you can break the rivet which connects the link to the clasp. Then, rivet the clasp directly to the fourth permanent link on the short side.

    Each method has its negatives. In the first you ruin a permanent links. However, you can unscrew the clasp as usual. The second method keeps all links usable (you can rivet the clasp link back on as usual if you want to reverse the change), but the clasp can't be removed from the short side without cutting the rivet.

    I'll post a picture of what it looks like this evening.
    Last edited by JP Chestnut; 24th January 2017 at 20:21.

  32. #32
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    How do you get one of the fixed links apart? I`ve heard it can be done but never fancied trying it. I tried getting the fixed links on an Omega SMP bracelet apart and gave up!

    Paul
    Apparently Rolex has a tool which is designed to pull the links apart with minimal damage. I've used a vice and a pair of locking pliers. My watchmaker has used a chisel.

    The link is three pieces. The two outer pieces are what's attached. One is female, and the other male, with a knurled bar passing through the center link. The ultimate goal is to pull the two outer links apart sufficiently to break the hold of the knurled bar in the female end. I have a bunch of broken links floating around somewhere. I'll pull one of the safe and take a picture.

  33. #33
    Master Pitch3110's Avatar
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    I sold mine once and managed to get it back which was a miracle, cheers Mark..

    It is always my go to watch if I cannot decide what to wear, I am sure you will love one.

    Pitch


  34. #34
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    I bought my 1996 14060 as a head only from S.C a few years ago and still love it!

    I went for a Tritium dial as it will look better as it ages. The original insert pip is already a lovely mustard colour!

    Last of the vintage Subs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  35. #35
    Craftsman
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    I think the best looking Sub of all. No other one is such a perfect balance between modern usability and vintage vibe.
    Go for it :-)

  36. #36
    Master
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    I love mine and it fits my 6.75" wrist fairly well without modification.

  37. #37
    Craftsman
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    im thinking of one of these instead of a date sub

  38. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Haywood_Milton View Post
    Most times, any rattle can be cured very quickly and easily. If you're near me, fancy letting me have a go at yours for free?

    H


    That's very kind of you. But I am keeping mine unworn to pay for uni fees for my 2 year old. Or something like that

    What I meant, though, was that the bracelet feels rattley. It doesn't feel solid like a 16610 bracelet. I think it might be hollow? Also, it has loose end links which you don't get with a 16610. All rather charming. Glad I paid £3.5k for mine!

  39. #39
    Craftsman CafeRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onelasttime View Post
    Thanks Haywood. It just looks like the perfect Sub to my eyes – drilled lugs, two-line text (pre-COSC), no date, sapphire glass, etc.

    I can't do the vintage minefield route so the 14060M seems the obvious choice. I'll be in touch, without feeling entitled to the fount of your knowledge
    Hi OneLasttime, can't recommend a 14060M highly enough! Here's my 2006 pre-COSC 2-liner It gets regular wrist time and along with one of my Eterna Super KonTiki's I'll never part with it




    Cheers!
    Mark

  40. #40
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowdon View Post
    That's very kind of you. But I am keeping mine unworn to pay for uni fees for my 2 year old. Or something like that

    What I meant, though, was that the bracelet feels rattley. It doesn't feel solid like a 16610 bracelet. I think it might be hollow? Also, it has loose end links which you don't get with a 16610. All rather charming. Glad I paid £3.5k for mine!
    For many years the Submariner 14060 and Date Submariner 16610 shared the same 93150 Oyster Fliplock with folded metal end-links (501 B from memory). For the last ten years or so the 16610 moved to the slightly improved 93250 with solid end-links, which complemented the change to solid lugs in the watch head that followed shortly afterwards (denoted by the suffix T in "16610 T" on the case itself.

    I have never known the folded end-links to fail, but it is usually these where any rattling is found. Sensitive reshaping removes the scope for "play" around the axis of the spring bar and any rattling will typically stop.

    The 93250 brought one further improvement as the 16610's later bracelet : the solid extension links with positive friction "locking."

    Nice idea to sit on one. Perhaps inevitably I have done the same, with a stickered and complete V-case 14060M sitting among my small flock. The 14060 variants were never especially common and rightly deserve the appreciation widely felt for them now.

    Haywood
    Last edited by Haywood_Milton; 25th January 2017 at 19:53.

  41. #41
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onelasttime View Post
    Is this the perfect blend of vintage looks and modern usability? I'm thinking of cashing in a few chips and going for one as it seems to tick a lot of boxes for me but am I missing any obvious flaws?

    All thoughts welcome
    Hi I have had a 14060 and the bracelet really annoyed me. I now have an 114060 and I think its amazing. Worn everyday for a year and I love it. No problem adjusting size on the wrist due to the adjustable clasp.Have you tried one on?. Both are lovely of course but for me the 114060 wins hands down. All the best Kev

  42. #42
    Journeyman
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    Given these seem to be popular, are there any cheaper pre-rehaut non-date submariners? I would guess most sit around 4-5k in any variant but here's hoping...

  43. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Haywood_Milton View Post
    For many years the Submariner 14060 and Date Submariner 16610 shared the same 93150 Oyster Fliplock with folded metal end-links (501 B from memory). For the last ten years or so the 16610 moved to the slightly improved 93250 with solid end-links, which complemented the change to solid lugs in the watch head that followed shortly afterwards (denoted by the suffix T in "16610 T" on the case itself.

    I have never known the folded end-links to fail, but it is usually these where any rattling is found. Sensitive reshaping removes the scope for "play" around the axis of the spring bar and any rattling will typically stop.

    The 93250 brought one further improvement as the 16610's later bracelet : the solid extension links with positive friction "locking."

    Nice idea to sit on one. Perhaps inevitably I have done the same, with a stickered and complete V-case 14060M sitting among my small flock. The 14060 variants were never especially common and rightly deserve the appreciation widely felt for them now.

    Haywood
    Useful knowledge. Thank you

  44. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Woody74 View Post
    My favourite Sub.......you should try to get hold of one as quickly as you can.
    I've just managed to get a 14060, and having been on the look out for quite some time prices seem to have been rising fairly quickly.

    I'm wondering whether Watchfinder are now so large that they are able to dictate the UK market.

    I can't see any reason why a used 13 year old watch with no box or papers, in average condition should be listed at £4750, add a service to that and you'd be better getting a new 114060.

    When used dealers have the same overheads as big chain jewellers they obviously need to sell with a good margin, but just lately it's getting silly.

    They're trying to sell 5 year old ones for £7.5k!

  45. #45
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisparker View Post
    I've just managed to get a 14060, and having been on the look out for quite some time prices seem to have been rising fairly quickly.

    I'm wondering whether Watchfinder are now so large that they are able to dictate the UK market.

    I can't see any reason why a used 13 year old watch with no box or papers, in average condition should be listed at £4750, add a service to that and you'd be better getting a new 114060.

    When used dealers have the same overheads as big chain jewellers they obviously need to sell with a good margin, but just lately it's getting silly.

    They're trying to sell 5 year old ones for £7.5k!
    The 2 14060M watches at 7.5k are both unworn. But still a scary price !

  46. #46
    Master
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    If anyone is looking for one then look no further.

    http://www.mjwatches.co.uk/modern-wa...serviced-2016/

    Great guy with a bulletproof Rep.

  47. #47
    Grand Master MartynJC (UK)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slevin Kelevra View Post
    If anyone is looking for one then look no further.

    http://www.mjwatches.co.uk/modern-wa...serviced-2016/

    Great guy with a bulletproof Rep.
    Goodness me. £5K!!!! Personally I have had a few pass through the collection but for me I found them a little 'underwhelming'. None have stayed: 5513, 14060.

    I appreciate this goes against the forum consensus but there you go.


    5513 on a night out:


    Martyn
    Last edited by MartynJC (UK); 1st February 2017 at 09:36.

  48. #48
    Master
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    There's an unworn random number one at an ex AD I know for £8500. It was £5995 c12-18mths ago which I thought too dear then.

    They also have a chrono-quartz for £1995 making the one on SC look well priced :). Interestingly they recently sold an LV for reasonable money (given the current demand...).

  49. #49
    Dress up or Down, were great value entry Subs but not no more! Prefer T dial as previously stated, tough as old boots, mines lived a life but case is strong...

    Last edited by Snoodles; 1st February 2017 at 10:00.

  50. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    Only drawback I found with the 14060 was the poor fit on a fairly small 6.75" wrist. I couldn't get the 6 side short enough to centralise the clasp and the watch wouldn't sit properly. The last link ajoining the clasp is slightly shorter on the 16610 and that fitted fine. The difference is only around 3-4 mm but it makes a big difference on a smaller wrist. If my wrists were slightly bigger I would've kep my 14060, but I ended up selling it because it never felt right. Other than that it's the best of the Subs IMO.

    Paul
    Sounds like the job for a half link

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