Fellow TZ'ers,
You may all be bored of these threads, but I have slight dilemma and need some answers too. Apologies for incoherent ramblings & pictures that have been used from the net)
Soon I will be looking to purchase a new everyday watch. Realistically the Pam 372 is sometime away, cheapest I can see this 2nd hand is above the £5k mark, with just moving house, possible car & holiday (needed for this year), without a BIG pay rise it will have to wait.
I'm looking to stretch my budget to the £2-3k mark, and want something with brand history/ pedigree (you WIS know what I mean) in house movement (at least COSC ETA if not) something on a bracelet (with options for another strap) versatility and a design that will not look dated.
Other tick lists that I would like are, lume (having a watch without one is a drag) applied indices (love dial detail like this) 3 handed (chromo's not needed), at least 100m water resistances, if more then a solid case back lastly wearable every day.
Option 1 - Omega Seamaster Blue dial SMPc - always liked the old wave dial versions, and regularly passing my local AD (Burrells in Tunbridge Wells - who have been great lately) the newer blue ceramic version keeps catching my eye. A bit of research online later, I'm thinking yes this could be the one. AD visit and a great conversation with Martin @ Burrells who has had the wave dial version for 20+yrs. Pros - great size, comfy bracelet, love the dark lacquered dial, date window detail lovely even the black part, applied indices, sold case back, co-axial movement and the scallop bezel. Cons - Bond history, not keen on the HEV at 10, green lume on the minute and pip hand, heard the older versions and very small crowns which caused issues and will the blue be ideal for everyday?
Still I was looking at this thinking it's the one, to me it was Rolex Sub quality for 1/2 the price. Ran the idea past my missus who acknowledge the idea of another incoming. Recent trip to Bluewater, showed her watch and to my shock, she absolutely hated it, thought it was vile and looked cheap! I know I'll be the one wearing it & not her but with the other cons, this was no longer a viable option.
Option 2 - Breitling Avenger Seawolf II Yellow Dial - again another watch I've always admired since getting into watches - every since I spotted the chrono in Blood Diamond. Always thought the black dial would be the one I went for, but seeing the yellow dial version in the Breitling store, and trying it on it really sang to me, plus wasn't as yellow as the pictures make out. Pro's great build quality, superb dial detail, nice company history, hidden HEV, looks great in the bracelet & the abyss rubber strap. Cons - dial not that versatile great in the summer but not everyday! Big and bulky this is an issue I have with my U Boat not great for everyday use.
Think one day the Seawaolf will be in my collection but my head says no for the watch I need now. Surprisingly the other half likes this watch.
Option 3 - Bremont Solo white dial. Always a brand that I have liked even if the split the forum. Solo pretty much the only version that sings to me. Pros - great case design, as British as can be right now, applied indices, versatile strap options, can be used everyday as well as sporty & smart, plus hear the customer service is great. Cons - movement not the best seems to be hidden in that case. Like the bracelet but felt the clasp was cheap, also pull crown which I'm not keen on. This was the watch my other half liked the most funnily enough.
Other options are
Love the big crown, the gilt dial and the new in house movement which is a reported 70hrs. Not keen on the handset, plus the 'Cheaper Rolex ideology, not keen on the nato or leather straps.
This is a very left field one. Father in law owns one and the dial and case finishing are superb. Vastly overpriced at RRP but certain grey dealers have offers where there are very great value. Not keen on the Panerai esq details also movement wise I'm unsure off. Love then hands and strap versatility, push in crown also a concern.
After seeing learningtoflys recent SOTC & his pictures of this, I done a bit of research on this. Great watch, good history and a definite WIS watch. Dial detail is superb and great movement. Size could be an issue, also hearing the the crown is a weak point and the bracelet, lume is fantastic, but will I always be thinking 'how much for a Seiko?".
Well if you read this far thank you. I'm still non the wiser but leaning more towards the Bremont.
I did also manage to try the Moonwatch on, and I can finally see the appeal of the original manual wind professional maybe one day this will be the chrono that dons my collection.
The new Breitling hurricane is a bizarre thing, admire the materials but honestly it felt like a Toy watch or Swatch in the wrist way to light, and 24hr time dial confuses me!
If anyone can think of another watch that could tick a lot of boxes for me or hands with any of the above that would be appreciated.
Lastly I know the rolex no date sub would most likely tick everything I want, but price wise it isn't viable right now, same with the 372 as I still need an everyday watch when I purchase this.
Thanks Brad
Last edited by McBeardy; 15th January 2017 at 13:26.
Black Pelagos?
I know one thing, that Breitling would be last on my list! It looks like something you'd find for sale inTop Man.
What about a Bretling Superocean Heritage? They are gorgeous watches, the only nice looking Breitling in my opinion too. Have to be 2nd hand though for that money I think.
Hi McBeardy
Only one of these I would not have is the Breitling.
My preference would be for the SMPc although in your shoes I would go for a Bremont just not the one indicated below.
Not wanting to annoy anyone but a Bremont might not meet your requirement for brand history though.
Good luck with your selection !
Edit: Not just following jameswrx's comments on the Breitling I did not see it before replying, weird !
I own a yellow dial Breitling Avenger Seawolf II, and although I think the "looks like something you'd find for sale in Top Man" comment above is utterly ridiculous, I'm not sure I'd see it as an 'everyday wearer'. I wear mine in rotation with around 10 other watches and it's perfect in that kind of setup I think.
I actually think you've identified an interesting bunch of potential options there - the SMP is an easy watch to wear daily, I like the Solo (although personally I'm far more attracted to the Supermarine S2000) and I'm also strangely taken with the Terrascope.
Simon
The SMPc really doesn't look or feel cheap! Did you also look at a PO when you saw the SMPc? That would be another option.
I presume you realise there is a bracelet option for the BlackBay?
Agree with what others have said.
Narrow the list down.
If the SMP is your no.1 and is within budget then go for it.
That said I'm looking more and more at cheaper watches and love the Seiko. Great quality IMHO.
Also love the look of most Tudors.
Apologies, you're right it was ridiculous. What I should have said was "in my opinion". But we all like different things and I'm sure you'd find some of my watches horrible so it's no big deal.Originally Posted by mycroft
Dont bother and save for the 372, this watch is a grail for me but like you say prices a bit high atm
Given those options it would be Tudor or Seiko for me.
If you cannot get round it being "just" a Seiko then remove it from your selection. The Bremont is more dressy tool style than diver style the other options are. And no to that particular breitling as an everyday watch. The Omega is probably the sensible choice, but that doesn't make it the right one.
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Why not get a base panerai if that's what you want ? 183 could fit the bill
SMPc? what is that sorry, not familiar with the abbreviations.
The Breitling would be a bold choice, quite like the yellow dial though!
The Seamaster seems to be the watch that anyone who wants "a nice watch" buys.
Last edited by Lucky21; 15th January 2017 at 14:50.
Tried that & felt the titanium was too light, would make a great running watch mind you.
Seawolf the only Brietling I like, the SuperOcean feels to much like a Sub copycat IMHO.
I think you must have been looking in my watch box !
As the owner of a Bremont, Breitling SOH, Seiko MM300, a Tudor Black Bay and a JeanRichard I can say they all have different reasons they appeal to me.
My most recent acquisition which seems to also tick your requirements is my Tudor North Flag - there was one on SC on the strap.
Thanks Simon, it was your review on the Seawolf that got me liking the yellow more & more.
The SMP does tick a lot of boxes I know. The Supekrmarine is a great watch but I don't like the thickness or way the case sits on the wrist, plus day date is a nono.
Brad
I know that, just mentioned what the other half said. I've looked at the PO 8500 with the orange number indices great watch but just left me feeling a bit cold, reminded me of Audi!
Bracelet is a plus just not keen on the other strap options for the BlackBay.
In current rotation is my Seiko Arnie which is 32yrs old, so I know Seiko & how good they are, just not sure if spending that type of money would it bug me!
Agree on the Omega. I like the dressy tool aspect of the Bremont, but as you can see I do like a diver.
Eventually I will own the 372, & other base Pams will alway share key characteristics, so ideally I wanted a bit of variation.
Are you not thinking of the regular superocean? Wouldn't say the Heritage looks like a Sub to be honest, the Seiko in your list looks way more like one than a Heritage.
Haha think I'd be happy with your collection. The North Flag just doesnt appeal to me, not keen on the power reserve amongst a few other things.
What model Bremont do you own? Also how do you find the MM300 & JeanRichard and quibbles?
Brad
SeaMaster Pro Ceramic - think its the easier abbreviation for the model Omega I was talking about.
I think I'm one of the few.
ahh ok thanks.
Mmmm 372, you have good taste and it's totally worth saving up for.
Cheers..
Jase
I have an MB2 . The inner bezel action with the second crown is precise and handy . The watch does sit quite high and my only issue is finding the perfect strap - I have talked to Bremont about getting a bracelet fitted but best to go to the London boutique for this as it isn't straightforward.
Lume is not the greatest.
My MM300 on the other hand has great lume , I do have one scratch on the hardlex but stuff happens.
The bracelet is ok , the clasp is thick but I have a Crafter Blue rubber on its way.
My JeanRichard is a DLC Aquascope with the Hokusai engraved dial and blue indicies- I got this +70% off from Ashford and it has been good value at the price I paid. I didn't find the rubber strap very comfortable and I got in contact with the main JR importer in the US and got a black ostrich leather strap which is much more comfortable.
I would say last year my Black Bay Red (ETA) got the most wear - I originally purchased it on the leather but at the beginning of 2016 it went back to Tudor/Rolex for service as I had bashed the bezel , at this point I asked for a bracelet to be fitted and this rekindled my love of the watch and it became my favorite. This also influenced my latest purchase.
Not 100% within your brief but what about a preowned IWC Aquatimer 3290 (latest model).
Would go for the Tudor as well
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Of those, personally I would pick the SMPc. Much depends on how it looks on your wrist of course - particularly as it is to be an everyday watch
I've been thinking of trading my Tudor Black Bay for the lovely cobra yellow Seawolf but the thickness is just too much so happy to stay with it.
Firstly, I`ll dispel the myth about SMP crowns being a problem. I`ve worked on a fair few and the crowns are usually fine; usually the crown and pendant tube threads get damaged through ham-fisted owners being clumsy. Having said that, I can`t see the logic in spending £2500+ on a watch you don`t really want!
If you really want the Panerai, my advice is to save up till you can afford it. There's no point losing money on a watch in the interim period. I would buy a Seiko and keep saving; when the time comes to buy the Panerai you can keep the Seiko as a an everyday wearer.
Paul
Thanks Paul, to be honest I'll keep saving for the Pam anyways. But I know having he Pam, plus the U Boat & Arnie I'll still want a new everyday watch. Which I think the Bremont is probably the best choice, then one I'll have either the SMPc or Seawolf as a holiday type watch. (Well this is currently my logic)
Brad
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http://www.xupes.com/Watches/Product...-22578000.html
Interesting one here.
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I was looking for similar last year... I looked at loads and narrowed it down to either the blue SMPc or yellow Seawolf... decided the SMPc was too similar to my Sub and ended up getting the Seawolf. I ended up selling it a month later and buying the SMPc instead. I found the Seawolf too big for an every day watch. Still have the SMPc and can't see my getting rid anytime soon.
Bremont? History - check. Pedigree - check. In house movement - check. Never look dated - check. Seems to hit all your requirements!
Go slow and really think about this. You're thinking five watches into the future and you haven't even bought this one. That's always a sign of a low utility purchase.
As others have said I would buy the watch you want (SMPc)
However if you can get a chance to handle a MM300 I would
It's a lovely watch and has become a favourite of mine.
If bought second hand they offer real value for money IMO. You might be surprised.
Bremont I think will be the next purchase, unless somehow I get the money for the 372. But I do think that's still some time away.
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Have you looked at Damasko? Choice of quality ETA or in house within your budget including bracelet.
Level of engineering is ridiculous for the money and a bit lef field. Not for eveyone but maybe??
Of your choices, I would absolutely go for the SMPc. I lusted after these for years before getting the Sub, and still rate them, in all their variants. I don't like the HEV, but that should not undermine a great watch.
I'm not madly into Panerai, but they aren't much of a daily wearer, particularly 47mm ones like the 372. If you eventually acquired that, you would still get tons of use out of the SMPc
Bremont as a brand I like, but I think their signature models are the MB2 and ALT1-C. If you think of the Seamaster at it's price it is with its co-ax modified movement, then Bremont looks expensive for what it is, and their value retention isn't like the SMP, if that is important. As a Rolex guy, although rather unsoundly thinking about a Monaco :O, the SMP is an ace watch you can buy without regrets. I would have one in a heartbeat. Under £2300 at Chronext too
Good luck with your choice
Dave
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Something about them leaves me a bit cold. Think it's the case design are a bit flat. One of the issues I have with my U Boat. Although do like the level off over engineering both Damasko & Sinn offer.
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Thanks Dave, I know the 372 is large & wouldn't hold well as a daily watch, but theirs something I love about that watch. Looks better beat up & mostly likely my weekend & after work watch.
I think the few niggling cons I had on the SMPc would bother me compared to the Solo, & I also understand the Solo isn't Bremonts flagship model, I admire the MBII but certain aspects of the watch are not for me, as a beater I have my Arnie, least the Solo is more versatile. ALTC-1 nice vintage Chrono look but wouldn't use it & like the Speedie Pro more of going down that route.
I'd try & get a deal on the Solo as I know prices aren't great new, but will also keep an eye for the SMPc prices as 2nd had they are good, didn't help that the that half hated it either.
Thanks for the advice though.
Brad
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