closing tag is in template navbar
timefactors watches



TZ-UK Fundraiser
Results 1 to 46 of 46

Thread: Old new Navitimer... and it's a nice one

  1. #1
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400

    Old new Navitimer... and it's a nice one

    My latest pickup is this Navitimer 806, a hand-winder with the Venus 178 movement. Originally manufactured in '69 or '70, it's been back to the Swiss factory for a full restoration, and so is now in as close to as-new condition as I'm ever likely to see. It's really a lovely old thing, and so very slim and un-flashy compared to Breitling's modern offerings. I'm absolutely chuffed with this one... so much in fact that I couldn't help getting a bit artsy with the photos:











    One other thing I find interesting... Jeppesen are still turning out the same green paper logbooks my dad was using before I was born. The shades are AO Original Pilots, manufactured in Massachusetts to the same pattern they've been using since 1958. And as for the jacket, it's a good old classic A-2. So it's funny to think that these pictures could have been taken any time in the last half-century and still come out looking exactly the same.
    Last edited by workahol; 2nd July 2015 at 02:16.

  2. #2
    Master Saxon007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,262
    Congrats on a beautiful watch. If that model was still for sale new I would likely get one. Because of the larger size, the fancy seconds hand and the date function I will not buy the modern version.

  3. #3
    Grand Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Mostly Germany
    Posts
    17,392
    That's lovely.

    I was under the impression that Breitling refused to service anything older than about 1984 because they didn't have parts - but obviously the factory does. Perhaps that was a BUK policy?
    ...but what do I know; I don't even like watches!

  4. #4
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400
    Good question. The service papers that came with this one are stamped with the name of the Dutch Breitling dealer, so perhaps it does indeed vary between countries. Or, perhaps that's a recent change - the restoration of this one was done in 2010, so they could have changed their policy in the meantime.

  5. #5
    Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South East
    Posts
    3,702
    Lovely watch congratulations, and jacket, is it an Eastman by any chance?

  6. #6
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400
    Thanks - it's a Gibson & Barnes actually.

  7. #7
    Grand Master number2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    North and South.
    Posts
    30,751
    Excellent, compared to the current Navitimer that seems much more legible


  8. #8
    Master Wooster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Jammy Git county, apparently
    Posts
    3,551
    Absolutely gorgeous!

  9. #9
    Craftsman leahorsfall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Derby England
    Posts
    419
    Stunning!

  10. #10
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Geneva
    Posts
    332
    Lovely watch and stunning photos - you have a gift!

  11. #11
    Craftsman leahorsfall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Derby England
    Posts
    419
    Is it a Breitling strap?

  12. #12
    Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    South East
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by workahol View Post
    Thanks - it's a Gibson & Barnes actually.
    It was your signature picture that made me think that, because I'm fairly certain it's on the front page of the Eastman catalog, enjoy.

  13. #13
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400
    Thanks gents. To answer the strap question, this came to me with a Breitling-branded black leather strap, but brown straps are more to my taste, so I swapped it out for a Hirsch Heavy Calf. The new and old straps are so similar that I wouldn't be surprised to learn that Hirsch are the supplier of Breitling OEM straps to begin with.

  14. #14
    Grand Master snowman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Hampshire
    Posts
    14,559
    Wow that is stunning.

    I thought my 809 was a nice example of the classic Navitimer!

    M
    Breitling Cosmonaute 809 - What's not to like?

  15. #15
    Ooh, that's lovely

    Up to maybe around a year or so ago I didn't really care too much for such a watch, not because it's a Breitling but because of the busy dial and general old world look to it. Not now though, my tastes are changing and, particularly after trying on the newer in-house movement 43mm B01 recently, they're really starting to appeal. Wouldn't mind a Venus movement Top Time either.

    Isn't it the Navi that holds the position of the longest single production run (in various guises) of an aviator's watch? Started making them in the early 50's and still being made today.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Saxon007 View Post
    If that model was still for sale new I would likely get one. Because of the larger size, the fancy seconds hand and the date function I will not buy the modern version.
    Totally agree with this. The date on the modern versions scuppers it entirely for me. The OPs however is rather lovely.

  17. #17
    Yes, that's fantastic. I'd like to get my 816 looking like that - any chance you could PM me please with what they charged you for the restoration?

  18. #18
    Master Possu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    3,744
    Excellent photos of a beautiful watch. I wish they'd make a modern version without a date aperture. This is much better balanced than the modern versions, IMO.

  19. #19
    Master Rocket Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    2,759
    This is so much better than any current production Breitling. You have excellent taste, sir!

  20. #20
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400
    So I've had a few PM's enquiring about what it costs to do a restoration like this. I'll reply here because I don't mind sharing what little I know. The short answer is, I have no clue what the cost of the restoration was! It was commissioned by a prior owner, and the Breitling service papers that I received with it haven't got any prices listed. However, the paperwork does show that the following was performed:

    Complete overhaul
    Back gasket
    Barrel spring
    Bezel spring
    Change of dial
    Change of hands
    Change of crystal
    Change of flange (I think this means the slide rule bezel insert)
    Change of pusher (x2)
    Change of crown
    Change of crown tube

    So, everything but the case and movement has been replaced with new parts. If I add up all my guesses for what Breitling would charge for each of the above services, I get a properly shocking number. It also happens that I have a data point from user on another forum, who had this same procedure done to his own 806. I won't disclose the figure that he sent me privately, but suffice to say you could buy yourself a nice Speedmaster Professional for the same money.

    I also wouldn't care to disclose exactly what I paid for my own Navitimer, but I will say that I bought my completely restored watch for about what it would have cost just to have Breitling perform the work on an old one.

    Oh, I didn't take any pictures with the caseback removed, but I can report that it's absolutely pristine under the bonnet too. Perhaps I ought to post a movement photo later.

    cheers,
    - Matt

  21. #21
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    London
    Posts
    621
    I like that, so much clear detail on the face. Lucky you. Cheers

  22. #22
    Master Gruntfuttock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Peasemoldia, UK
    Posts
    5,114
    That's a keeper.

  23. #23
    Thanks for the restoration info Matt. Yes, a pic of the movement would be greatly appreciated.

  24. #24
    Matt, this is just fantastic! What a beautiful piece, and you must be very (justifiably) proud. Congratulations on a great addition.

    Best wishes,

    Myron

  25. #25
    Grand Master Mr Curta's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Mainly UK
    Posts
    17,393
    Impeccable taste. I'm very impressed and am becoming more and more drawn to the idea of owning a vintage Breitling.

  26. #26
    Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Plymouth, UK
    Posts
    1,403
    That is a lovely watch and back when students still used slide rules was one of the most envied watches in the world.

  27. #27
    Master WatchIng's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Rural Suffolk
    Posts
    1,238
    Nice - I much prefer their old logo to the new, blingy (to my eyes - no offence meant to other's viewpoint) one.

  28. #28
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Everywhere & nowhere, baby
    Posts
    37,599
    That's outstanding, and makes me realise what a plonker I was to have sold mine.

  29. #29
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400
    Thanks Tony... I'm afraid I can't disagree with you too strongly either, as it was your photos that in large part inspired me to hunt for this one! :)

  30. #30
    Master speedish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    West Yorkshire
    Posts
    2,748
    That's great. Breitling should bring it back.

    ismaaeel

  31. #31
    Craftsman Harry's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    259
    That's just beautiful.

  32. #32
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Northern Ireland
    Posts
    868
    Can I be cheeky and ask the cost of the Navi?

  33. #33
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedie View Post
    Can I be cheeky and ask the cost of the Navi?
    See post #20. :)

  34. #34
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Northern Ireland
    Posts
    868
    Quote Originally Posted by workahol View Post
    See post #20. :)
    Apologies ! I missed that one.

  35. #35
    Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    London-Islington
    Posts
    4,685
    Very nice, why is it that old stuff are so much nicer than the new stuff....maybe im just getting old sigh

  36. #36
    Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    In the chicken coop.....
    Posts
    1,582
    Quote Originally Posted by kaiserphoenix View Post
    Very nice, why is it that old stuff are so much nicer than the new stuff....maybe im just getting old sigh
    One of the (few) nice things about being born in 1965 is that there are a lot of watches from that period which I think look fabulous but which the market doesn't hugely value. As an example, I got my first Moonwatch about a decade back for £400, and although prices have risen, they're still very accessible and just as good looking (to my eyes) as when they were first released.

    Same goes for my Rolex 6694 and 6426, and my Heuer 3647S - absolutely beautiful, and the sort of watch I like to wear a lot of the time. Interestingly, they were seen as sports watches at the time, but would now - certainly the Carrera - be seen as more of a dress watch due to the simplicity and the diminutive size.

  37. #37
    Why would you buy a modern Navitimer if you could have this? Superb.

  38. #38
    Grand Master MartynJC (UK)'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    12,372
    Blog Entries
    22
    That is a superb vintage Navitimer. It does make me regret some time ago I sold my montbrillant - though it did have a date complication it was quite a sweet watch and being rose gold did look rather fine:

    Anyway congratulations on your Navi!


  39. #39
    Master beechcustom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Right here
    Posts
    5,054
    Quote Originally Posted by DrBox View Post
    Why would you buy a modern Navitimer if you could have this? Superb.
    Indeed. Lovely watch OP. The 903 St from Sinn looks like a very close brand new alternative. Didn't Sinn actually purchase the original tooling from Breitling?

    https://www.pageandcooper.com/sinn-9...leather-strap/

  40. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by beechcustom View Post
    Indeed. Lovely watch OP. The 903 St from Sinn looks like a very close brand new alternative. Didn't Sinn actually purchase the original tooling from Breitling?

    https://www.pageandcooper.com/sinn-9...leather-strap/
    Indeed they did, along with the rights to use the dial layout. Breitling pretty much shut up shop in the late 70s and Helmut Sinn stepped in, though Breitling themselves kept the intellectual rights to both "Breitling" and "Navitimer". When the company regained its financial strength it reinstated the Navitimer amongst its model range.

    Edit to add - this explains it pretty well

    https://www.definewatches.com.au/node/580
    Last edited by CardShark; 2nd July 2015 at 00:59.

  41. #41
    Craftsman workahol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Upper-left USA
    Posts
    400
    Here we are chaps, a quick movement photo as promised. Forty-six years old but not looking the part! Click for full-size version.


  42. #42
    Master beechcustom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Right here
    Posts
    5,054
    Quote Originally Posted by CardShark View Post
    Indeed they did, along with the rights to use the dial layout. Breitling pretty much shut up shop in the late 70s and Helmut Sinn stepped in, though Breitling themselves kept the intellectual rights to both "Breitling" and "Navitimer". When the company regained its financial strength it reinstated the Navitimer amongst its model range.

    Edit to add - this explains it pretty well

    https://www.definewatches.com.au/node/580
    Thanks for the link. Interesting article. *Sinn's website states they are now using the Sellita SW 500 in the 903 rather than the Valjoux 7750. Is the Sellita a modified 7750?* Am very tempted to try one of these (to put on a 'save up to buy' list). The 41mm case is larger than I prefer but 46mm lug to lug is good news and could be a good size for me. Thanks again!
    Last edited by beechcustom; 2nd July 2015 at 09:02. Reason: EDIT *

  43. #43
    Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Carlisle
    Posts
    3,546
    Quote Originally Posted by workahol View Post
    Here we are chaps, a quick movement photo as promised. Forty-six years old but not looking the part! Click for full-size version.

    Stunning watch and movement.

  44. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by beechcustom View Post
    Thanks for the link. Interesting article. *Sinn's website states they are now using the Sellita SW 500 in the 903 rather than the Valjoux 7750. Is the Sellita a modified 7750?* Am very tempted to try one of these (to put on a 'save up to buy' list). The 41mm case is larger than I prefer but 46mm lug to lug is good news and could be a good size for me. Thanks again!
    The SW 500 is a 7750 clone, Sellita are supplying them to fill in where ETA are paring back their supply. Sinn being Sinn, I'd be reasonably confident that if they didn't think that the 500 was up to the same standard as the popular 7750 then they wouldn't use it.

  45. #45
    Master DB9yeti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    London, UK
    Posts
    8,264
    Quote Originally Posted by DrBox View Post
    Why would you buy a modern Navitimer if you could have this? Superb.
    In-house movement, automatic, date, warranty, water resistance, availability of parts etc.

    I would also rather have an 806 though, have had three I think (and an 809) and all gone :(

  46. #46
    Craftsman Euan Begbie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Falkirk scotland
    Posts
    496
    very very cool!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Do Not Sell My Personal Information