Given the amount of interest in my question I think an update is in order.
We have a lovely time in the Granite City, and it would have been nice to have had time to explore further.
Okay, it's a bit scruffy but the grandness is there underneath the surface and there's plenty to interest the city-lover.
We drank some great beer in some great pubs (visiting the full spectrum from The Grill to 6DN). We walked on Saturday from the city centre to Old Aberdeen, and along the Esplanade to Footdee.
Our outing on the bus to Stonehaven on Sunday was a revelation - what a lovely place. Good fish and chips and great pubs, too. The weather was superb.
Like many, I have mixed feelings about the city because it's a place I've always associated with leaving home for work. This was the first time I haven't arrived with a knotted stomach. However, if you like cities there are certainly worse places to visit.
Thanks to those who gave constructive tips.
The dreaming spires.
Footdee:
Stonehaven: