New and Naive

[Generous John]

Hi folks,

I have been lurking for a little while and thought it was about time I joined and introduced myself!

I never wore a watch until about two years ago when I needed one for a new job, I bought a Seiko. The thought process being: I need a watch that looks ok and is as cheap as possible.

Since then I've enjoyed wearing my Seiko but over the past few months it's fair to say I have become obsessed with watches. I spend every spare minute looking at pictures of watches that I want. This could become an expensive hobby!

I seem to prefer the minimalistic look but the more I look, the more I like. I recently bought a Brathwait watch, the only model they have in fact which can be seen on Brathwait.com (I got the brown leather strap). I think it's a very good looking classy watch, and cheap at $185. I also bought an AVI-8 Hawker Harrier II as a bit of an everyday watch, 40% off so I got it for £129.

I want to get a "proper" watch next though, and with my 30th next year I think I'm going to treat myself and take the plunge. I've managed to narrow it down to either a Tag, Breitling or a Rolex, budget will probably be £4500. I would appreciate everyone's thoughts as I openly admit I don't really know a lot about watches. I think I want a dress style watch but I do like the look of some chronographs too. The specific watch that is winning the race so far is a Breitling Transocean Day & Date, with a white face. Also keen on Christopher Ward watches.

Anyway, nice to meet y'all!

[watchstudent]

Hi there,

I have dealt a lot with Christopher Ward and they are a great company to deal with and make some lovely dress watches. With a budget of £4500 you could take your pick of any CW. You like dress watches and chronographs? Well just so happens the most beautiful CW in my opinion is a manual wind single pusher chrono (a complication that you could add another zero onto the price for a lot of brands!):





Failing that I'd be going for a Rolex Datejust for something dressy at that price or a Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso

[Nudlar]

It's my 30th next year and I'm also looking for a special watch. Currently thinking of a rolex explorer 1. For breitling I'd consider a super ocean heritage, and for tag, maybe a monaco.


Out of the watches I already own the omega speedmaster and longines legend diver are my favourites.

Could always go birth year. Vintage rolex maybe?

[fraggle42]

That's a big jump up in funding from £200 to £4500.

I would definitely spend a while in various shops trying on various watches for a decent length of time - not just put them on, look at them for 30 seconds and take them off!

I only really got into watches a couple of years ago and it's taken me maybe 1.5 years to get a handle on what watches I really like, and there really isn't any common theme to the favourites.

I guess everyone flips watches regularly when they first get into watches until they find out what they like - I find so many of the lovely details in the pictures just aren't visible when it's on your wrist, and "removing" them can leave you with a plain watch that just doesn't cut it.

[Montybaber]

That's a big jump up in funding from £200 to £4500.

I would definitely spend a while in various shops trying on various watches for a decent length of time - not just put them on, look at them for 30 seconds and take them off!

I only really got into watches a couple of years ago and it's taken me maybe 1.5 years to get a handle on what watches I really like, and there really isn't any common theme to the favourites.

I guess everyone flips watches regularly when they first get into watches until they find out what they like - I find so many of the lovely details in the pictures just aren't visible when it's on your wrist, and "removing" them can leave you with a plain watch that just doesn't cut it.

Agree with this, i am going through various stages and wouldn't dream of spending that sort of money until i know exactly what i will keep

[stooo]

My advice, if you are looking for a keeper do not frequent watch forums where ephemeralism reigns supreme.

[Generous John]

That CW single pusher is very nice, and limited edition too? I really do like a lot of the CW models.

I say my budget is £4500, that is an absolute maximum and not a target.

Nudlar, I like the idea of a vintage but have no idea where one would go about purchasing a high quality vintage watch? Aren't fakes rife?

[Wexford]

First of all, welcome aboard John.
You are in great company here and it's good you're a generous guy, as getting into watches and watch fora is an expensive hobby, but a lot of fun.

My advice would be as above from others, despite the temptation to dive in with both feet, hold back a little and try a few different things before dropping 4.5 bags on a single watch. There are many great watches to be had for 500 - 1.5k, often second hand of course, but they are often as new, due to being cherished by people like us.

Before settling on that TAG or Rolex, have a look at...
Damasko
Sinn
Tudor
Steinhart
Precista (local hero)
Smiths (as above)
Glycine
Tissot
Omega (Speedmaster and Seamaster can be had 2nd hand for £ 1.5k)
Deep Blue
Kemmner (erkahund on Ebay)
MKII

That should get you started, just stick any of those, plus "watches" into Google and you're off!

PS. Not much love on here for C. Ward, although there are a few fans. I'm not one of them either though, I'm afraid.

[Generous John]

First of all, welcome aboard John.
You are in great company here and it's good you're a generous guy, as getting into watches and watch fora is an expensive hobby, but a lot of fun.

My advice would be as above from others, despite the temptation to dive in with both feet, hold back a little and try a few different things before dropping 4.5 bags on a single watch. There are many great watches to be had for 500 - 1.5k, often second hand of course, but they are often as new, due to being cherished by people like us.

Before settling on that TAG or Rolex, have a look at...
Damasko
Sinn
Tudor
Steinhart
Precista (local hero)
Smiths (as above)
Glycine
Tissot
Omega (Speedmaster and Seamaster can be had 2nd hand for £ 1.5k)
Deep Blue
Kemmner (erkahund on Ebay)
MKII

That should get you started, just stick any of those, plus "watches" into Google and you're off!

PS. Not much love on here for C. Ward, although there are a few fans. I'm not one of them either though, I'm afraid.

Thanks for the info Wexford, that's exactly what I needed, a long list of brands to have a butchers at. Unfortunately for my employer, today I shall be mostly googling said brands!

As for buying watches second hand, are there some reputable second hand dealers? Wouldn't want to end up with a fake due to my inexperience.

Is there something I should know about C.Ward?

[Wookie_66]

Welcome. Im a new member myself but not said hello formally.

Look at all the suggestions as their are so many great watches out their. I would say though its not what other people think it is what you like in the end. I have several watches some people would turn their noses up at. But I like them.

Definatly stick around and wait like me to get access on the for sale side and 2nd hand is the best value. Also buying from forums like this one I am guessing is more trustworthy. Some watches as well if you send them off for a polish them come back looking brand new.

[Generous John]

Welcome. Im a new member myself but not said hello formally.

Look at all the suggestions as their are so many great watches out their. I would say though its not what other people think it is what you like in the end. I have several watches some people would turn their noses up at. But I like them.

Definatly stick around and wait like me to get access on the for sale side and 2nd hand is the best value. Also buying from forums like this one I am guessing is more trustworthy. Some watches as well if you send them off for a polish them come back looking brand new.

Hi Wookie, so what watches do you own?

I do agree it is all down to personal opinion and I want to buy a nice proper watch for myself, not for others. But all opinions are welcome!

[DB9yeti]

As for buying watches second hand, are there some reputable second hand dealers? Wouldn't want to end up with a fake due to my inexperience.

All of them are or they couldn't stay in business! watches.co.uk, Watchfinder, Hackett Watches, Blowers, Carrs, there are many of them. Won't do any harm to ask here first though.

Is there something I should know about C.Ward?

They divide opinion; some say they are trying to market themselves too hard, that they have too many cut-price sales, that they have a silly logo and so on.

Having spent quite a bit of time with the man himself at Salon QP, I found the quality of the case and movement complication to be beyond reproach at that price point. They were let down by being 'fashionably' large and having a truly awful, terrible quality crystals that distorted the second you were not looking at the watch square on. Seriously, it was 'fake' quality and very sad as I was going to have a monopusher chrono, world timer and jumping hour, all of which have superb complications, well executed!

Oh, and please don't spend £4500 on a TAG. It would be the stupidest thing anyone had ever done, up there with invading Russia in winter.

If you have £4500 and are new to the game, buying 3 well-chosen second hand watches for around £1500 each would probably give you a lot more pleasure. A few Rolex Subs come up at £3k or just over so you could jump on one of those and then have a Speedmaster or almost any Breitling chrono for the other £1500.

[nellyh]

I agree with the other posters on here about trying lots of watches for as long as you can and not rushing in.

When you talk about a "proper" watch, I assume you mean an automatic or manual wind watch as it looks like your current ones are quartz. It may be that you want a high end quartz instead, it doesn't sound like it but thought I'd ask. When I got my first automatic 10 years ago I was unaware of the fact they were generally less accurate than quartz, and was caught out by my first servicing cost (eye opening when you're used to a quick battery change!).

Assuming you've gone beyond that level of knowledge, decide on your style, try lots and consider buying 2nd hand as you obviously get more for your money.

Most of all, enjoy the moment. Buying a watch is a pleasure not a pain!

[Neal666]

I've just got my first watch. I went for the one I have always looked at in jewlers windows since I can remember. Breitling avenger 2. Maybe I could have spent the money better but it's the one I have always liked and I intend to pass it to my son so it's going to be a keeper and I wanted to buy new.

[Generous John]

All of them are or they couldn't stay in business! watches.co.uk, Watchfinder, Hackett Watches, Blowers, Carrs, there are many of them. Won't do any harm to ask here first though.

Thanks for the recommendations, plenty of nice watches on there and I've only had a very quick look. Much more affordable too!

That's a shame about the CW watches, perhaps I shall stay clear until I have a bit more experience and stick with more well known reputable brands.

As for your TAG comment, I must admit the more I read about them the less I want one.

When you talk about a "proper" watch, I assume you mean an automatic or manual wind watch as it looks like your current ones are quartz. It may be that you want a high end quartz instead, it doesn't sound like it but thought I'd ask. When I got my first automatic 10 years ago I was unaware of the fact they were generally less accurate than quartz, and was caught out by my first servicing cost (eye opening when you're used to a quick battery change!).

Correct, I want an automatic / manual wind. Although I am aware they are less accurate that quartz I have no experience of servicing automatics. How often and how much would it cost? I appreciate this may depend drastically on model and make. Ball part figures would help.

[DB9yeti]

That's a shame about the CW watches, perhaps I shall stay clear until I have a bit more experience and stick with more well known reputable brands.

CW are very reputable!

I have a lot of watches from microbrands, boutique brands and cheapies (+/-£200) from the likes of Seiko which ALL have great optics on their crystals. There is, IMHO, no excuse for the optical quality of the crystal Chris Ward uses. I really don't understand it and thought they let down some otherwise really nicely made watches with terrific complications. Don't discount them outright, it may not bother you. It bothers me.

[Wexford]

Servicing costs depend on who does the service.
If I had sent my IWC Mk XV off to IWC, it would have come back looking brand new, polished, perfect and would have cost me € 700
As it was, I took it to a very well renowned watchmakers, they just serviced the movement, replacing the balance spring and a few other bits and it cost me € 170
Like most things in life, you pays yer money...

Mechanical watches, if worn everyday, will only need servicing after five years or more, depending on the movement, so I'd worry about that later if I were you.

My real advice? Enjoy your Seiko some more. Stay on here, ask tons of questions, learn who ETA are (not the Basque terrorists), learn about Miyota and Sellita and Seagull, figure out what "Veblen" means, enter into some never ending debates with a certain forum member about said "Veblen" goods and the price of Swiss watches vs non Swiss / Quartz. Decide on mechanical or Quartz.

Then buy a watch. :)

[nellyh]

Cost varies by manufacturer and movement in the watch. There are people on here who service watches and might be better on price guides, but I assume a service through accredited dealer or manufacturer maybe £200- £400, with a complete overhaul more.

For a watch I wear all the time I factored in a service every 3 years.

[Willow986]

I was here a few years ago and there is certainly some good advice on this forum. I personally would get a good used rolex or Breitling from one of the outlets previously mentioned. You have submariner money and that would be a safe bet used as I think it's a good all rounder. Plus if you see something else you like perhaps on sales corner it's "good currency" to have.

Plenty on here will disagree but many have been doing this watch stuff for years an will appreciate the subtleties of certain niches. If you are considering any type of tag( nothing wrong with that IMHO) some of the other brands won't be for you. Oh and don't spend anywhere near your budget on a tag.

If you must have a new watch, look at grey dealers like iconic and use them as a tool for your AD discount. Andrew michaels have some good deals for discontinued Breitlings too

Enjoy the search and welcome to the forum...

[MuRph77]

Only one thing you need to google:-

114060

[watchstudent]

This is my Christopher Ward C5, cost me about £310 brand new, keeps to about +1sec/day and I have never even thought about the crystal.

[Wookie_66]

Hi Wookie, so what watches do you own?

I do agree it is all down to personal opinion and I want to buy a nice proper watch for myself, not for others. But all opinions are welcome!

Ive got from Casio's, Steinhart, Seikos, TW Steels, Breitling, Oris, Wenger, Fat Face, Pojot and an Omega plus others. Varied taste; it doesnt have to be expensive.

You will get caught up in buying 1s for differant occasions.

I am starting to agree with some of the rep Tag now has but their are still some nice watches like the Monaco and a few others eg Carrera Calibre 6 Heritage (I like it).

[Generous John]

Thanks for all your comments so far guys, have learned a lot since my first post last night! Looks like I need to do a lot more homework before I'm ready to dive in!

[NIGELW]

Welcome,

And thanks for Info

[TomDavoren]

This is a really interesting thread to read, as I think I've been through a similar experience, and am still going through it! Having only been collecting for about a year I'm as much of a newbie!

Initially, I also started by looking at options like Christopher Ward (one of which I may yet pick up) as an affordable option which also came personally recommended by a mate. Diving a bit deeper into tz though massively opened my eyes to the pre-owned market. Over the year, instead of spending my whole budget on a single watch I've picked up a dress watch (Omega Geneve 1961), an enjoyable and well crafted everyday watch (Timefactors Speedbird GMT 2011ish) and something a bit more special (Omega Speedmaster Chronometer 2012).

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418228303.393471.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418228325.544575.jpg

The big moment of realisation for me was actually getting up the confidence to get out of the forum and trying things on for myself and talking to people in person. Go to your nearest independent watch shop or a specialist with a pre-owned range; Parkhouse, WoS etc., if you have any friends who are into watches take a bottle round their house and get trying. Once you've found out what you like you can then probe tz for loads of useful info.

I was nervous about appearing unknowledgeable, but there is only one way to become familiar with a subject, dive in head on and ask questions :) Nothing beats talking to people, on here and face to face.

Great to meet you and hope to see some more posts from you soon :)

[TomDavoren]

Couldn't fit in the Geneve using the tapatalk app :)


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[PJ S]

I do agree it is all down to personal opinion and I want to buy a nice proper watch for myself, not for others.

The perfect, and correct, attitude to have, especially when spending a hefty amount on what, effectively, is a trinket.
Don't let that dissuade you from Rolex, if you know there's a chance you may have to sell it in the future, but if it's highly unlikely, then any brand that takes your fancy is fair game for being acquired and enjoyed.

On that note, I'll add to the list of above with some of the brands/models that appeal to me (in random order).

Chaumet – Dandy
AP Royal Oak – another forum favourite, but at 38mm, it might be deemed too small.
Cvstos
Girard Perregaux
Glashutte Original – love the Sport Evos as a Rolex alternative, and will get harder to find as they've been discontinued.
Corum
Ball
Hublot
Grand Seiko – including the Anantas. Spring Drive is a fabulous technology with a central seconds hand that is mesmerising to watch how smoothly it moves around the face. Mirror polishing of the hands and indices make for easy time reading in low-light conditions.
Perrelet – absolutely love their titanium moonphase.
Edox
Cuervo y Sobrinos
Ulysse Nardin
Lindburgh & Benson (Schaumburg)
Pequignet
Bremont – Solo and Supermarine 500 mainly.
Union Glashutte
Pierre Kunz
Paul Picot


Just bear in mind that some brands, like GP for example, can take upwards of 6-9 months for servicing and cost the best part of £1K.
Chronograph, moonphase, and annual calendar complications, cost more than a basic 3-hander to service.
Hopefully servicing is not something you'd need to worry about for a good 5 years down the line, but it's best to be aware of what you're getting into, beforehand.

[Generous John]

Well what a day it has been, great information on here from you lot - many thanks - and then on the way home I thought, let's follow some advice and try one of the watches I've been pining after on for the first time.

Popped into a jewellers and tried on the Breitling Transocean Day & Date. Was bloody lovely! Had not worn a watch with a mesh strap before and it was a lot sturdier than I thought it would be!

Consider my toe, dipped!

[Generous John]

Oh, and thanks PJ S for more watch brands to check out!

[Wolfie]

Minamalstic? A bit of Bauhaus maybe?

Junghans max bill...

[Generous John]

Wolfie, I have seen that particular watch and it did take my fancy. I do seem to be drawn to the bauhaus style watches. Nice big clean face, lovely!

This is half the problem, there is so many watches that I would love to have!

[fraggle42]

Minimalist watches (IMO)

Sinn U1 (£1500)
Mondaine Stop2Go (quartz - also do lovely auto ones) (~£400)
Laco (have the "Used Look" - cheesy name but really nice auto watch) (~£300)


Or simple 3 hand, but high quality

Deep Blue Sun Diver 3 (£350) These are that cheap and better quality than anything else near the price (that I've had hold of)


Tudor are a nice alternative to Rolex, cheaper, made by Rolex.


Maybe a bronze watch?
Helson
Armida A8


All "cheap" enough you can happily get a couple or four and wear them for a month and see if you love / like / hate them.

[TomDavoren]

What about something from Nomos in terms of minimalist / Bauhaus? I tried a few on at QP and fell in love!

http://www.nomos-glashuette.com

[Generous John]

What about something from Nomos in terms of minimalist / Bauhaus? I tried a few on at QP and fell in love!

http://www.nomos-glashuette.com

The Metro is very nice!

[TomDavoren]

The Metro is very nice!

Absolutely, I love the little power reserve bubble on the dial that goes green to red.
It's the tangomat GMT that really tickles my fancy though, I love that the GMT function is in two windows rather than a secondary hand or sub dial, it's a great look!

[watchstudent]

^ I would say 114270 or 214270 would suit his tastes better

[TomDavoren]

^ I would say 114270 or 214270 would suit his tastes better

Great shout. I'm a big fan of the Explorer, I think I'd prefer to go for the variety of having two or three moderately priced watches in a range of styles. If I were to have just one though, an explorer would be pretty hight up the list.

[Wolfie]

Nomos of course... Here's mine!

[P9CLY]

All watches are ''Proper'' watches tbh.

But I know what you mean,you mean a watch of significant value that has your mates scream.....How much!.

Just to say,now't wrong with Seiko,you can go ''budget'' to ''Proper''.

[TomDavoren]

All watches are ''Proper'' watches tbh.

But I know what you mean,you mean a watch of significant value that has your mates scream.....How much!.

Just to say,now't wrong with Seiko,you can go ''budget'' to ''Proper''.

Absolutely, I've had a Seiko auto 200m diver with an orange dial on my want list for a while :)

[watchstudent]

Nomos of course... Here's mine!

Beautiful.

My favourite Nomos though:

[Generous John]

Thanks for the suggestions that keep coming guys, much appreciated! I shall definitely have an eye out for Nomos from now on!

[Wolfie]

Beautiful.

My favourite Nomos though:

Oh yes... Rather lovely and the perlon strap is really something!

[nibby]

I've just got my first watch. I went for the one I have always looked at in jewlers windows since I can remember. Breitling avenger 2. Maybe I could have spent the money better but it's the one I have always liked and I intend to pass it to my son so it's going to be a keeper and I wanted to buy new.

You couldn't have spent the money better if it is the watch you have always liked.