Nice.
Posting this here in case anyone is interested...
Whilst I don't think this is quite the same as a professional's touch, this is an interesting approach on getting that PVD look. The results and hardiness of the finish look pretty good.
http://www.indohomage.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=4312
I have a vintage Heuer and Tag where the cost of restoring the PVD will be several times more than what I paid for the watches.
If I had all the tools required I'd be tempted to use them as project watches and give this a go.
Nice.
That case looks very good , might try this out when I get some spare time..
Bravo! I wonder if he repeated the process twice, would he get a thicker coating?
Not convinced about the process, but the result looks pretty good.
There is a coating "system" used in the US by gun types called Ceracoat... it is a two part, air-brush applicated ceramic paint that hard-cures in an oven. It seems ideal for many things including watches and I have been trying to get a sample from the manufacturer... no luck so far :)
Seiko did similar on golden tunas (among other) with their shroud.
Excellent test and great result, If I were to raise one point I would use a coat of etch primer next time, It's now Availlable in aerosols It is acid based and eats into the base giving great adhesion, It is only very thin so just a mist coat works and would help stop chipping or top coat failing.
When he said "burning gas stove burst maximum power for 2-3 minutes" does he mean like the flame directly hitting the case? I will definitely try this out. I do need a black buckle.
Ceracoat in my experience chips and me being sweaty acidic doesn't help. Or maybe the who did mine was lousy.
Last edited by rsimpsss; 21st September 2014 at 13:50.
Ah - seems so;
http://www.motorcitywatchworks.com/work.html
As I understand it, the US gun nuts favour Ceracoat because it is highly chip and sweat resistant - but only when applied exactly as per manufacturers instructions... if the base material isn't degreased in an insanely aggressive manner, or if it isn't heated long enough pre and post application or if it is applied too thickly then the end results are iffy.
Would there be a potential problem with any threads on the case being clogged with paint?
F.T.F.A.
I've had this for 2 years nearly (done by MCWW). Wear it a lot and out on building sites and it's still like new !
If done properly Cerakote is fantastic:
Whilst the final effect can be impressive, neither of these processes can compare with PVD finishes which are a totally different process carried out under partial vacuum and involving vapourised metallic coatings. PVD is widely used nowadays to produce gold, stainless steel and brass decorative finishes to household components such as door handles and taps. What distinguishes PVD from plated or painted finishes is the durability and the minimal increase in thickness of the component as the PVD layer is very thin.
The processes described are really versions of stove enamelling - impressive results nonetheless.
Hi guys,
I thought I'd have a go with this, tried it twice on a Vostok. On my first attempt I used a paint made to coat engine blocks that would "harden like enamel" according to the can. It did. But it rinsed off afterwards.
Second attempt I used a regular spray paint, it did stick better, but still it simply rinsed off under the tap. Anyone else who have tried this method?
I'm pretty sure that PVD means Physical Vapour Deposition.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical_vapor_deposition
When I worked in electronics manufacturing we had several vacuum deposition machines, which were used to apply metal film onto the products.
The machines were around £50k each.
The sacrificial anodes were £20k for each type of metal.
The vacuum coating process took 4-6 hours to complete.
It wasn't cheap, but the NiCr metal oxide film was bullit proof.
I had the job of analysing the metal in the laboratory - but even after 16-hours in boiling acid I couldn't shift it.
If you want a black metal coating, get PVD.
If you want a black ceramic coating, get Cerakote.
If you want black burnt aerosol paint on your bits, fire up the gas hob and hope for the best.
^ Haha. I actually had a professional check it out recently and he said that the coating process that was done on it was really lousy. So whew I'm not an alien what a relief.
Sorry for a late reply, the sh*t did really hit the fan at work today!
OK, well then ... Nothing on the case pointing in any direction.
It is not brass/bronze/some other kind of yellowy-ish alloy however. It does look like stainless steel, and I've even taken off at least a millimeter to make sure it's not some kind of plating ...
Still, it is Russian, and who knows what they had in store at the smelter ;-)
OK.
I try to live according to the rule of learning something new every day. I'm off to the barn to saw the Vostok in two.
And if it is indeed brass inside which I believe is the case (no pun intended) thanks to you guys I'll find some genuine stainless steel. To practise on. And I'll post the results!
Oooops, terribly sorry. Forgot all about this one.
Well, yes. I repeated the process on a stainless kitchen knife. It worked, not as tough as the OP on PWC claimed IMHO. But still OK. Then I re-heated the steel adding a metallic gold colour, But the heat made the matte black come loose. ... nor did the gold stuck.
So I guess it works, but not great. And re-heating makes it all come off.
Last edited by bork; 17th January 2015 at 17:58.
Followers of this thread might also find this "chemistry surface" mod of interest:
http://www.mwrforum.net/forums/showt...transformation
I'm quite tempted to try this on a Vostok.