Reply With QuoteBeautiful! Enjoy :)
About a year or more ago, I was mooching around the various new and second hand dealers in the Bond Street area and – for the first time – I tried on a Patek Nautilus 5711… a watch that I’d admired from afar but never actually handled or worn myself. There was no doubt that the finish was exquisite, but for some reason I couldn’t quite to get to grips with the case shape (or, rather, the hinged non-crown side). It did teach me one thing, if nothing else, though; sometimes, the only way you can appreciate the wonderful craftsmanship that goes into many of the higher-end watches is to actually pick them up, wear them and scrutinise them properly. I’m not saying that you’ll then be able to see where the “value” is because we all know that luxury products don’t work that way, but what I am saying is that photos alone will never do them justice.
I mulled and mulled over the Nautilus, but deep down I knew it wasn’t calling to me like it needed to. Around the time that I realised I wouldn’t buy one, my head was turned by it’s cousin from the other side of the tracks – the Aquanaut. Much more of a sports watch, in my opinion, and none of that strange hingey nonsense found on the Nautilus. It’s also a whole lot cheaper, especially on the fantastic rubber strap, even if residuals are horribly firm if you’re on the buying as opposed to the selling end.
The following months saw me try on both the 5167 and the 5164 a number of times (for those not into the numbers, the former is the basic three-hander and the latter is the dual time zone “Travel Time”). Both are absolutely gorgeous watches, but whilst I loved the 5164 what I didn’t love so much was the additional bulk it came with. Actually, I didn’t like the price differential either and – after considerable thought – I decided that the “simple” 5167 (on rubber) was the watch for me. In fact, I proceeded to work very hard indeed to track one down, politely declining the BNIB example that Boodles at the Royal Exchange had redirected for me and pretty much agreeing a deal with the manager of a branch of WOS for the next one they got in. (He had accompanied me and Tim on our trip to Blancpain last year, and he’s a lovely bloke; not only that, he offered me a deal that was better than anyone else’s and that made the thought of buying new somewhat more palatable!)
The next step was to wait – and this is where it all went somewhat pear-shaped, if I’m honest. Whilst I waited, I also thought, and looked, and considered. In fact I tried on as well, and one of the watches that made intimate contact with my wrist was an AP RO – not the 15300 or the classic Jumbo but the current 15400; just a tad wider than the other two at 41mm but very nicely proportioned. In fact, the more I thought about the AP, the more I was steering myself in it’s direction at the expense of the Aquanaut. I liked the fact that it was genuinely a horological icon (I know, it’s silly really, but for me it’s an element of that intangible added value that forms part of my decision-making); I liked that on the wonderful bracelet it was comparable price-wise to the Aquanaut on rubber; and – if I’m honest – I liked the fact that it just seemed a little more… I don’t know. Maybe a little more refined.
Just a quick word about the history of the Royal Oak before I go on, because since its release at the Basel fair in 1972 this watch has achieved a status that nobody would have assumed possible. Famously designed by the one and only Gérald Genta, it received a slightly mixed reception at first, with many finding what was then considered a slightly quirky, iconoclastic design a little too different for comfort. It has to be said that cost was also an issue, with the RO in stainless steel being listed for more than some of AP’s already-established models in precious metal. Quite a bold step when you think about it; it needed to be, though, because the Royal Oak was AP’s answer to the quartz crisis and they certainly needed to pull a rabbit out of the hat... things weren’t looking very clever for them at the time, anyway.
Also bold was the choice of Genta as designer. Born in Geneva some 40 years earlier, he had already forged an enviable reputation by the time AP approached him. It was a well-earned reputation too, as Genta had been responsible for some classic watches that included models for Universal Genève (Polerouter Microtor, White Shadow, Golden Shadow), Omega (Constellation) and Patek Philippe (Golden Ellipse). Incidentally, a few more fairly decent watches would follow these, including the Seamaster, the Ingenieur, the Nautilus and the Pasha de Cartier… it really is quite incredible, isn’t it? Here’s a photo of the fella himself, in case you were wondering what he looked like…
Word has it that, on the eve of the 1971 Basel fair (precisely one year before the RO’s official launch), AP’s managing director at the time, Georges Golay, called Genta at 4pm explaining that the market was expecting news of an “unprecedented steel watch" for which he needed a design by the following morning. Genta had just one night ahead of him to design a watch that would ordinarily take several weeks and call for hundreds of sketches. By early morning, the drawing perfectly conveyed his first idea: that of a diving-suit helmet featuring all the details of the watch that was to become the Royal Oak, a design that would in fact never be fundamentally altered. He later called it his “masterpiece” and the photo below is of the sketch he presented to Golay that morning:
Gérald Genta passed away at the end of summer 2011 having founded a brand under his own name and having never stopped designing watches. In fact, for a few years in the mid-1990s he also held the honour of being the designer of the world's most complicated watch, with his incredible Grande Sonnerie Retro which – even back then – was priced at around $2million! He’s remembered, and will no doubt always be remembered, for some of the greatest designs in 20th century watchmaking, and for the avant-garde nature of his vision.
So, with that amazing and unique background not only researched but also very much appreciated, I proceeded to ponder the RO further, because deciding on the model – not to mention the dial colour – wasn’t very easy. Essentially, there are three in the range, each with their own merits:
· The 15300 – 39mm case, and a pretty classic choice (albeit superseded now). Blue, black or silver dial.
· The (current) 15400 – 41mm case but a seemingly slimmer profile than the 15300 and so just as wearable when all’s said and done. Black or silver dial, with a rarer LE Boutique Edition in blue.
· The 15202 "Jumbo" – an homage to the original RO, with an ultra-slim 39mm case. Too expensive, sadly, so dial colours are immaterial! Shame, though…
I had pretty much decided on the dial colour (blue) but not the model. I was leaning towards the smaller 15300 but then three things happened, each leading to the position I’m in today. Firstly, I finally managed to try on a blue-dialled 15300 (they’re quite hard to pin down in that colour, actually) and whilst I loved the watch I was a little disappointed by the actual hue of the dial; it wasn’t as vivid as the newer 15400 dials and was a little disappointing as a result. (I also started to wonder about the thickness of the case, perhaps because I was in a slightly more critical frame of mind than I’d been in previously.) Secondly, I tried on the Boutique Edition 15400 and realised that the proportions give it what appears to be a slimmer profile (it isn't slimmer, though) and this more than compensated for the slightly larger case; not only that, but the blue dial was just sublime. And finally – just when I thought that the decision was becoming impossible – I learnt that the very chap from WOS who was trying to source me an Aquanaut was actually selling his own Boutique Edition 15400. Not only was it almost new (well, this particular one was sold in mid-2013 and was very lightly and carefully worn) but the watch had also just received a full service at AP and was winging it’s way back to Cardiff at the time. It didn’t need servicing, of course, but some people are just fussier than others
Now, AP only made a limited number of this model/dial combination for AP boutiques, and I liked the fact that it was a little scarcer than the more easily spotted models. That aside, though, it housed the same (gorgeous) in-house cal. 3120 movement as the 15300 and the other 15400 variants. I suppose the only other thing worthy of note is that the 15400 saw the end of the AP logo at 12; I like the cleaner dial, and I also like the fact that, if anything, it’s truer to the original. In other words, I found that my decision was made, and within about 48 hours of me hearing about the watch’s availability in the first place I’d agreed a deal with our friend at WOS and paid for it. Not that many hours later, the doorbell signalled it’s arrival and it was pretty immediately adjusted and on my wrist.
I hinted earlier that it’s hard to do justice to some watches, because they need to be handled and worn in order to be properly appreciated. I could ramble on about the simply fantastic casework, with wonderfully brushed finishes contrasting against adjacent highly polished facets. I could talk at length about the octagonal bezel with its perfectly aligned faux screw-heads that give it an appearance that quite a few have tried to copy without success. I could even talk about the integrated bracelet, which is of supreme quality and is one of the most comfortable that I’ve ever worn. Finally, I could try to explain the sheer depth and “blueness” of the tapisserie dial; it’s not just blue but it’s a whole range of blues – not in the way that Rolex achieve that with their sunburst finish but in a totally different way. It’s even subtler, if anything.
All of this could only fail to convey the reality of the Royal Oak, though, because descriptions and photos don’t even get close, in my opinion. All in all, it’s a bloody beautiful watch – perhaps not the one that I thought I was going to buy a year ago, but the one that I probably knew I’d buy the moment I first tried it on. I suppose all that’s left is the photos… not sure that I can do a good enough job, to be honest, but I obviously couldn’t stop myself from trying!
Beautiful! Enjoy :)
Well let me be the first to say, that is STUNNING!
...and suits you, Tony. :) Congrats and wear in good health always.
...DAMN!!! Someone beat me to it!! :)
Brilliant, many thanks for the story and congratulations on your fine watch. If someone is struggling to understand this hobby they should simply read what you just wrote and things should become clear to them. The passion for watches shines through very strongly.
Exquisite Tony Congratulations . Great write up and photos too.
Right decision. Job done.
Great post, enjoyed reading that - very interesting :)
cheers
Alan
That's way out of my league but that little detail doesn't stop me from looking long and hard at your latest arrival. Thanks for the review and the history lesson. I learn a lot from your posts and the pictures linger long in the memory... Enjoy wearing that classic work of art.
Proper.
A fair bit of reading Tony.
But very interesting nonetheless I might add.
If I was still in the market for luxury watches, this would be the one, even the colour is the right one.
A beautifull piece, with a fine movement, and imho the right way to go, the PP name maybe more holy for some, but the original RO is THE steel sportswatch in the luxury class.
Daddel.
Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!
Absolute perfection. What an icon, congrats!
How do I rate this one star? Only joking...it's a beaut! Well done.. You got there in the end.
Agreed. PP do so many things to perfection - but, in this area, PP=pee pee.Originally Posted by Daddelvirks
Not for me Tony....but loved your write up and photos. Thanks
Really enjoyed that, thank you. Love the thought processes.
I was fortunate enough to try a 5711 for size last year and had thought it to be my grail both before and since, should I ever be in the position to actually purchase one I think I may have to seek out one of these beforehand.
Great photos as always but an even more interesting write up. I enjoyed that, thanks.
A tenner says an aquanaut still sneeks into your collection one day ;)
Enjoy
Really enjoyed that and your photos are always top notch. The watch itself is simply stunning.
Nice one Tony – enjoyed the preamble, inc the Genta story.
Am pleased you got this model as it's exactly the same one that I have and your reasons reconfirm why it's a keeper!
The rarity, colour and wrist presence do it for me!
Enjoy and congratulations!
Out of interest, can you dispose the price?
Wonderful, thank you for posting.
Dave
It was a stunning pic of an utterly beautiful Nautilus on another forum that reignited an interest in watches and brought me back here, the Nautilus from then on was my dream watch with the AP RO as its brasher, slightly more "council estate" cousin... Not that an AP could be described as a bit council, it was just a perception I had in my head when compared to the Nautilus; expensive bling with a touch less class than the PP.
Those pics, though, and this write-up... I want that RO so much. Gorgeous thing, I'm insanely jealous right now. Enjoy it!
Superb - pics, writeup and watch. A proper blend of art, design, engineering and beauty. Congratulations on concluding quite a hunt.
( Keep this one )
Paul
A very well considered and perfect choice. Enjoy mate!
“Don’t look back, you’re not heading that way.”
Lovely Tony but I can't help saying I'm sure a PP 5167 or 5711 will be on your wrist this side of Xmas
Enjoy the watch
Congratulations Tony!
I miss my 15300 and will have another AP before too long. Although it'll more likely be an AP Roo Diver next ;-)
I tried to like the 15400 but I just couldn't tony. It's probably just my wrist that can't carry it off so I'm looking for a 15300.
However, that suits you much better than me by the looks of it, and the factory tour back in April gave me huge respect for this brand. The watchmakers were fantastic and had huge passion for their work, and our guide was very good at making me desperately need an AP!
Enjoy it :-)
Great post, great pictures and a great watch!
A great read as always, Tony. I adore the rotor detail and display caseback shot
Nice story of the acquisition.
Of the two you had in mind, there is no doubt you made the right choice, very nice photos there.
Mitch
Very informative review Tony and I think you have captured the blue dial in the pics superbly. Not had the pleasure of trying an AP on yet but must say that after trying a 5167 on the other week I was very taken with it and thought the finish was superb, very understated and sat on my scrawny 7" wrist perfectly! Maybe one day, enjoy your new piece..
Borrowed one of these for a few minutes at the Royal Exchange Watch Week event. Wonderful. A superb addition to your stable.
I'm glad you've finally got yourself one Tony, a cracking write up mate, and a cracking watch. Enjoy!
After my AP Diver that's my favourite watch. Unfortunately, I'm not yet in a position to buy one. Congrats, Tony, you made the right choice 100%.
That does look lovely, enjoy it.
Best sales post, EVER!
Not for me at all, you can get a nice watch for that money
Respect the past, live the present, protect the future
Great story Tony...although your pics make me sweat slightly. Possibly from desire, maybe even from jealousy, probably a bit of both! Wear in good health!
Last edited by MerlinShepherd; 24th July 2014 at 09:29.
Great post, Tony! Enjoy the watch... :)
-flugzeit
A very interesting and informative post, accompanied as ever by superb photographs.
Clearly the watch is capable of standing on its own merits, but if it were to be considered as part of an holistic collection which category would it most readily and logically fit in? I ask out of pure ignorance but genuine interest.
Fascinating write up as always - enjoy!
A really interesting read. Thanks for the history lesson!
Excellent choice! Great watch, congrats!
Amazing watch
Absolutely stunning, great write up.
Enjoy it! :)
Congrats!
Good decision, beautiful picts, stunning watch.
I would go for a white dial though.
Stunning. Well done OP, thanks for the write up.
Thanks and well done for the write-up and pictures; I'm so pleased that you won't be able to fit a maroon zulu to that one. I have one Genta watch (and maybe have another if I could get hold of an authoritative account of what else he did for UG) and it does add something to the owning experience; or at least it does if you stay away from some of his later work.
In the Sotadic Zone, apparently.
Congratulations! The royal oaks are true dream watches. Thanks for shareing those great pictures. The blue of the 15400 is really shining blue compared to the blue of a 15300.
Enjoy this peace of art.
That's as good as it gets as far as I'm concerned, I actually much prefer the simplicity and elegance of the Royal Oak in this guise as oppose to some of the Offshore's which have become the choice of premier league footballers, superb pictures as always.....
The man's alive and well!!Best sales post, EVER!
Not for me at all, you can get a nice watch for that money
Do you still own a decent watch????
Daddel.
Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!
Quite the week for AP here!
Great photography as always.
Simon
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