Timegraphers

[Kozzy]

I did a quick search but couldn't find much on the subject, so I hope I didn't miss a huge thread!

I've been thinking about getting a timegrapher, or timing machine as they're sometimes called. I'm not a real watchmaker but days like these (Christmas!) do seem suited for a little watch tinkering. I found the timegraphers on eBay starting at maybe £150.
There's quite a few versions all with very catchy model names such as '1000', '2000', '3000' etc. Some even come with a thermal printer (which seems quite fun as well, to keep track of things).

What's the general consensus on these? Wannabe toys or actually good quality tools? The 'Bergeons' equivalent of the timegraphers are a bit too dear for me, so I would be looking at maybe £350-400 max. That should buy me the 5000 with the printer straight from China. Waste of money?

[Dynam0humm]

I have the 1000 version and its an essential tool for servicing or to determine if a service is required. I paid about £130 for mine and as far as I can tell the cheapest ones do the exact same thing as the more expensive versions. You can pay extra for a colour screen or a printer but I don't see the point; The screen on mine works just fine and if I want to record the timing results then I'll take a photograph. Maybe if you service watches in your day job you'll see the value in spending more but for hobbyists and tinkerers the cheapest option does the job.

[GTuned]

Kozzy,

I have googled the topic several times looking for further answers, and there are some interesting posts out there (for some reason or another, I never got around to ordering one).

If it's of interest, I do recall that someone was going on that the 4000 is better than the 5000 due to the interface. If you intend on actually "tweaking" the movement to see the changes, you probably may want a higher series timegrapher. If all you will do is place watches on it and enjoy the readings, I would just get a simple one (1000 or 2000 series etc.).. There are some model updates and some differences in each series with different screens etc..

Some links I found along the way that may be of interest: http://www.timegrapher.com/index.php/en/
http://www.thewatchsite.com/21-japan...g-machine.html

May companies reselling timegraphers are rebadged Chinese ones (as far as I know, perfectly fine), and there is also a Swiss company making them too with some beautiful designs and prices to match :)

Let us know what you choose!

[Kozzy]

Small bump. Finally got my timegrapher. I ended up going for the MTG1000. Figured I could always buy a more expensive one if I need it.

I do have a small question, the time was going all over the place. +3s, +10s, -1s etc. and even the amplitude, out of the box. I set the measuring period to 8s and it's a lot more stable (it was set at 2s at first), +5s, +7s, +5s and so on, but still varying. Would it be advisable to set an even longer measuring period? Or can it be that it's just not very accurate?

[Richie_101]

Small bump. Finally got my timegrapher. I ended up going for the MTG1000. Figured I could always buy a more expensive one if I need it.

I do have a small question, the time was going all over the place. +3s, +10s, -1s etc. and even the amplitude, out of the box. I set the measuring period to 8s and it's a lot more stable (it was set at 2s at first), +5s, +7s, +5s and so on, but still varying. Would it be advisable to set an even longer measuring period? Or can it be that it's just not very accurate?

While I don't own a Timegrapher, I've used several different machines and my guess would be that you're not getting a clean signal though the clamp.

Timing machines were primarily invented for watchmakers to test the uncased movements, so you have to work a bit harder to get a decent signal from a cased watch, especially on modern jumbo sized steel cases. In my experience you get a better signal if you press the crown up against the sensor rather than the blank side of the case, and unscrew the crown if it's a screwdown.

I'm sure a Timegrapher owner will be along shortly. (Probably to tell me I don't know what I'm talking about as it gets a perfect signal, even from 30 paces away, or while under water. ).

Rich.

[java]

I won't even open the back of a watch. With certain watches I seek expert hands to change a strap.
But I do have a Timegrapher 1000. I see it as an essential guide to what is going on inside my watch. But if anything is adrift, I take it to an expert.

BTW when using one needs to be aware that not all (Although most do) watches use a lift angle of 52 DEG
You need to know the lift angle for all the readings to be correct. Lists of lift angles on various movements are available on line, but not all.

[walkerwek1958]

I bought a Timegrapher MTG-3000 a couple of years ago from China; think it cost around £400. It measures rate, amplitude and beat error. The sampling frequency can be altered, but I always leave it set at 4 secs.

I`ve been v. pleased with it. From what I can tell, the machine is v. accurate. However, some watches give far more stable figures than others; that's down to the watch and not the machine in most cases. The watch has to be clamped fairly tightly too. However, I`ve found I get more stable results from a watch that's cased up rather than a movement in a movement holder, although sometimes I have to use the trick Richie mentioned, touching the crown against the clamp to help transmit the sound.

If I didn`t work on watches I would never have bought one; however, they do allow the owner to regulate his own watches much more effectively. For me, it's an essential tool but in most cases it would be a 'nice to have' toy.

Paul