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Thread: Rise of the independents - who are your favourites?

  1. #1

    Rise of the independents - who are your favourites?

    I'm going to start with some musings, so if you want to pass my rantings, skip to the last paragraph for what I wanna discuss in this thread

    So 2013 has been a strange year for me in my WIS journey - apart from a G-Shock I didn't buy another watch ! My only other activity in the watch world was selling my Marinemaster that was completely unloved. I only realised this when I put on my old Monster the other day (the first mechanical watch I purchased) and reflected on 2013. I have to admit I was a bit bored of watches over the last 18 months. I think this is natural as you try things get to a stage of contentment and then appreciate the watches that you have. I've also been quite pragmatic, If I'm interested in a watch I tend to find somewhere to try it on. Indeed the lure of SC can lead to rash decisions, but this has been few and far in between.

    Most watches that I have tried on just haven't done it for me. I'm a firm believer on a watch needing 'to feel right' when you wear it. I tend to know this within a few minutes of trying something on. The other thing that has influenced me on how i buy is insane pricing. I look at prices of Panerai (I use Panerai as an example as I find their watches rather appealing.....) and from the first one I bought new over 4 yrs ago till now the pricing has rocketed. This has of course impacted 2nd hand pricing and it is now quite hard in stomaching the amount needed to fork out for some watches. I've also seen the way brands are moving into the Boutique model and have to say, though I understand the why behind this they come across a lot more soulless and mercenary which has been a turn off.

    Though a bit bored of watches, I've still been lurking and looking here (my participation levels on this forum are down) - one thing I would have to say is Watch Talk has been pretty damn good lately. Some of the watches on show have been quite excellent and the discussion levels have also been up there. This got me thinking about alternatives to the regular 'big brands' in the quest for looking for more unusual pieces and essentially you end up looking at small independent brands - both at the lower and higher end of things.

    I few of you have been posting some interesting independent pieces, so I want to open the floor and show off smaller independent brands that have caught your eye or that you have bought! Price range is not an issue, this is a chance to show off some fine 'haute horlogerie'. For me I'm loving Speake-Marin and the Spirit 2, tried this on a few months back and it's an outstanding piece. Lovely dial and a 5 day auto movement. Pic off the web:



    So let's see what's been interesting you!

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by crazyp View Post
    ... I have to admit I was a bit bored of watches over the last 18 months. I think this is natural as you try things get to a stage of contentment and then appreciate the watches that you have. ...

    Most watches that I have tried on just haven't done it for me. I'm a firm believer on a watch needing 'to feel right' when you wear it. I tend to know this within a few minutes of trying something on. The other thing that has influenced me on how i buy is insane pricing. I look at prices of Panerai (I use Panerai as an example as I find their watches rather appealing.....) and from the first one I bought new over 4 yrs ago till now the pricing has rocketed. This has of course impacted 2nd hand pricing and it is now quite hard in stomaching the amount needed to fork out for some watches. ...
    I can agree 100% with this sentiment (down to the detail, including the Panerai price comment), and have been there for a while.

    The only watch I've lusted after, secured, and fallen in WIS love with of late is Eddie's PRS-9. There is something about Bremonts, particularly the ALT1-C and Supermarine, that really speak to me.

  3. #3
    Craftsman Nytol's Avatar
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    I love the Spirit 2 also, tried some at Salon QP last year.

    I was very tempted by the Marin-1, but out of all of them, the Marin-2 is my favourite, but a bit pricy for me.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Dean in Canuckistan View Post
    I can agree 100% with this sentiment (down to the detail, including the Panerai price comment), and have been there for a while.

    The only watch I've lusted after, secured, and fallen in WIS love with of late is Eddie's PRS-9. There is something about Bremonts, particularly the ALT1-C and Supermarine, that really speak to me.
    Watch pricing has always been on the up but I can't help but feel the last 5 yrs has seen a shift in policy.

    As for watches, Eddie in general makes fantastic watches and I still find it difficult to understand how he maintains good value. I've looked at Bremont a lot and was extremely close myself on buying the ALT1-C. But something held me back. . It wears really well, I love the two register chrono design but there was something that didn't work for me. I do like is their designs in general, they have a style that flows through all their watches.

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  8. #8
    Those F.P. Journe watches are phenomenal Tinker. Only handled a few and mightily impressed. Can't understand why one would buy a Patek or even a Lange when they could get one of these. Particularly like the second one.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyp View Post
    Those F.P. Journe watches are phenomenal Tinker. Only handled a few and mightily impressed. Can't understand why one would buy a Patek or even a Lange when they could get one of these. Particularly like the second one.
    For example because design is subjective and they don't appeal to be at all

  10. #10
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    I also agree with many of the comments made by the OP, though I'm by no means bored of watches at the moment. Talking of independents though, I have a few watches from these smaller companies. One of my favourites is my Schofield Signalman.


  11. #11
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    There are some great watches by the the smaller companies.
    The bali Hai project for one.
    Also vintage vdb, Enzo mechana and some I would love to see that are made by Germano and Walter.
    In fact there are loads more and if I had bottomless pockets the independents are what I would probably spend the money on.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodriguez View Post
    I also agree with many of the comments made by the OP, though I'm by no means bored of watches at the moment. Talking of independents though, I have a few watches from these smaller companies. One of my favourites is my Schofield Signalman.

    I do like them very much. I looked a year or so back and think I read somewhere that they are bringing production to the UK?

    If that happens I'd be very much tempted...though an RW Smith might remain top of my list (sadly out of my realistic price range).

  13. #13
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    I think that the new Schofield watch (Blacklamp) is made in the UK (minus the movement) as are all the straps/accessories for all watches. The original Signalman cases were made in Germany, I guess that would continue though someone may know better than me. All servicing is done in UK too.

  14. #14
    Master DB9yeti's Avatar
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    I hope this thread runs; I look forward to receiving a bit of an education on the smaller brands! I am very much a traditionalist brand person and perhaps would like to be talked out of it. 2013 has seen 2 x Breguet, 2 x JLC and 2 x Blancpains plus an AP, and an Omega. That was countered with a LOT of sales including Rolex, Zenith, JLC, Breitling and several vintage pieces.

    My plan is a Patek or Lange next but the FP Journe for instance merits much closer attention...

  15. #15
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    Love the independents but for me at the mo, it has to be this guy:

    http://www.laurentferrier.ch/en/

    Always a good read:

    http://ahci.watchprosite.com/?show=w...me.forum&fi=16

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by stix View Post
    Daniels is always going to top the list, but (and in no particular order), I'd have RW Smith, Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva, Ressence, Peter Roberts, URWERK, M&F, De Bethune, Habring2 and Eva Leube.

    And while we're talking about Daniels, here's something you don't see every day:


    Beauty and and Beast by Noodlefish, on Flickr

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean in Canuckistan View Post
    There is something about Bremonts, particularly the ALT1-C and Supermarine, that really speak to me.
    With you on this, seen one at the local meet and I have to say I'm smitten..there is a lot of quality in a Bremont that is above the pricing at the moment, it just makes my 40th Bday present to myself that much harder to choose...

  18. #18
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    Always fancied one of these but cant justify the cost new and never seen one for sale on the used market.
    Spanish maker,father and son i believe.


  19. #19
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    I think the mainstream is dead- apart from daddy, Rolex.

    De Bethune gets my vote every time.

  20. #20
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    Mechada and Halios are the two that are really turning my head at the moment.To die for looks , and not crazily priced ,make them exellent priced divers.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Broussard View Post
    Daniels is always going to top the list, but (and in no particular order), I'd have RW Smith, Kari Voutilainen, Stepan Sarpaneva, Ressence, Peter Roberts, URWERK, M&F, De Bethune, Habring2 and Eva Leube.

    And while we're talking about Daniels, here's something you don't see every day:


    Beauty and and Beast by Noodlefish, on Flickr

    That is an awesome pic, really is beauty and the beast!

    Also agree one should look into Habring2 - some really nice designs and they won a GPHG award for their jumping second.

    I've also looked into Sarpaneva - I preferred his last generation of designs. Not so much a fan of his current stuff. Maybe next yr I find some of his watches more appealing.

    Lastly, this Gronefeld - an unattainable grail for me......


  22. #22
    I agree that the indie's certainly produce more interesting stuff than most of the mainstream brands (to some extent, understandable), and going to Basel earlier this year, spending time in the Indie-tent was quite an eye-opener.

    Some of the whacky stuff was interesting, but not really viable as an everyday watch. However my favourite was the De Bethune dead-seconds tourbie. Truly beautiful, but not too showy. The dial is something to behold - very 3-dimensional.



    Not at Basel, but I really like the look of the simpler-looking Journe's and Moser's.

    The only issue for me is, as to be expected by ultra-low volume, semi-bespoke items, there's not much that's in the "affordable" bracket, and there's no gurantee of seeing much of your money if you trade one in. Used is the way to go IMO, but obviously they rarely come up.

  23. #23
    Master
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    For me, one of the many Dornbleuth's is on the to try list (and thankfully in a slightly more obtainable budget than some) but you could argue that they're becoming more mainstream.

    I really like some of the pieces by Kaventsmann. For example (picture off the internet)...




    That Gronefeld looks amazing. Just going off to Google...

  24. #24
    Definitely one of the better threads on here in a long while.

  25. #25
    really enjoyed this thread too. A happy hour spent reading and dreaming!

  26. #26
    I've seen/read a lot about De Bethune but not had a chance to see any in person. But really is in a different league in what I can lust over. I agree a lot are in the more pricey categories, such limited volumes hand made are always going to be expensive sadly.

    But Dornblueths and the like are still (relatively) inexpensive. As I mentioned before, look at Habring2 as well - again some interesting things and they try and do something to their movements and not simply dump basic stock ETA in.

    I find dead second watches a bit masochistic - i mean if you don't want a sweeping hand then just get a quartz

  27. #27
    Craftsman Nytol's Avatar
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    I liked this when I saw one last year.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Nytol View Post
    I liked this when I saw one last year.
    Curiosity made me look into this a bit more - have to say not my cup of tea. I like the case design, but skeletons went out of fashion last yr IMO......and then I saw the price. As is the case for a lot of the watches in this thread, if you have to ask the price then you clearly can't afford it

  29. #29
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    Wakmann always put the effort in when making a watch, they also have a good looking FF watch which looks good.





  30. #30
    Grand Master Daddelvirks's Avatar
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    Wakmann???

    Do they still exist?
    Their comeback wasn't succesfull I guess........

    A generic pilot's watch, 45mm with a standard Unitas, what an effort indeed!

    Daddel.
    Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!

  31. #31
    Master Marios's Avatar
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    Rise of the independents - who are your favourites?

    ^Worst experience I ever had was with the new Wakmann "company". Unbelievably unprofessional service for a greek project watch for the cali diver shown above. We are still waiting 6 months later for new dials because the ones provided were badly printed (and that's just one of the issues: see wrong hands fitted, scratches at the back, watches not properly sealed (!) and more).

    No response to emails is their trademark and the appropriate finishing touch to what they represent.

    All these written with an effort to be nice.





    Last edited by Marios; 4th December 2013 at 09:21.

  32. #32
    Grand Master Daddelvirks's Avatar
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    That's sad to hear.

    That just shows some people just don't know what they are talking about............

    Daddel.
    Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post
    That's sad to hear.

    That just shows some people just don't know what they are talking about............

    Daddel.

    I'm glad to see your bitterness hasn't worn off yet, it let's me know that I still hold the upper hand and is a great source of amusement

  34. #34
    Master PhilipK's Avatar
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    The only independent that really took my fancy this year was Ressence. I doubt that I'll ever buy one (too expensive, possibly too fragile, and probably impossible to get serviced), but I can dream. The picture doesn't do it full justice - it's an amazingly tactile watch to hold.



    The other independent (at the other end of the price range) that I'd mention is Christopher Ward. While overall their prices seem to have risen steeply, for a relatively mundane collection of watches, there have been a few rather brave experiments, including the two Jumping Hours, the Single Pusher Chronograph and the WorldTimer, all of which appear to offer very good value for money.









  35. #35
    Grand Master Daddelvirks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captainhowdy View Post
    I'm glad to see your bitterness hasn't worn off yet, it let's me know that I still hold the upper hand and is a great source of amusement
    I've never known any bitterness towards people, ever.

    Just pointing out what your comments and knowledge are worth.

    I'll wait for your Wakmann pics.......

    Daddel.
    Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!

  36. #36
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    I just love the look of this watch.. Stunning!

    Olloydy



    [QUOTE=PhilipK;2953162][COLOR=#000080]The only independent that really took my fancy this year was Ressence. I doubt that I'll ever buy one (too expensive, possibly too fragile, and probably impossible to get serviced), but I can dream. The picture doesn't do it full justice - it's an amazingly tactile watch to hold.


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    I agree the Ressence is rather cool looking and interesting. But man, 23,000 euro for an ETA2824 is a bit stiff!

  38. #38
    I mentioned several independents in this thread about Salon QP, including Ressence.

    http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.php?281089-Salon-QP-Some-of-the-my-personal-highlights&highlight=Salon


    It really is a great chance to see stuff from lots of the smaller independent manufacturers & I'd recommend it.

    I've had a mix of mainstream (Rolex, Seiko, Omega etc.) as well as independent (Anonimo, Bremont, Precista, Damasko, Sinn, Dornbluth, UTS etc.) watches in my collection.

    Current independant highlight is probably my Dornbluth 99.1 - I just love this watch

    Andy

    Wanted - Damasko DC57

  39. #39
    Master
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    Aerowatch, a family-owned Swiss independent... http://www.aerowatch.com/collections...h-en/1942-en-3

    Good quality & reasonable prices. I particularly like the 1942 range that echoes the styling of their pocket-watch origins.

    My two ...








  40. #40
    Master Kakadu's Avatar
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    F.P.Journe for me please santa........any model

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post
    I've never known any bitterness towards people, ever.

    Just pointing out what your comments and knowledge are worth.

    I'll wait for your Wakmann pics.......

    Daddel.
    It seems that your bitterness towards me has also brought on a sudden bout of amnesia, here are some of your non bitter posts which were in my direction from recent times, all of which confirms that I hold the upper hand, which is nice.

    With nearly 15,000 posts you should perhaps know better than to troll around the forum in this manner, but hey ho, bitterness is a terrible thing, do try to let it go, after all the season of goodwill is upon us, and may I be the first to wish you a Merry Christmas.


    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post

    Don't focus on my pal or me, pal, instead focus on yourself, there's quite some work that needs to be done before you grow up and become a real human.
    Daddel.



    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post

    Only one fool around here.

    I guess Ball are going the same way, poor people who paid RRP.
    But he ho, they are good watches, shame people do not recognize that.

    Still at it are you? waiting and quickly responding when someone talkes up your street,and nodding in agreement .

    Please post more anti Ananta stuff, the man can not wait to get to his keyboard, probably getting wet in the process.



    Daddel.


    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post


    Wetting yourself again by quoting someones opinion about the watch, are we?

    And I did remember what I said about being ashamed, at least it takes a man to admit it, but then again, you wouldn't know that, would you?



    Daddel.






    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post

    And, BTW, I'm glad CH wasn't living next to me in WWII, with all his witch hunts going on, I'd be afraid if I'd have had a big nose and dark hair.........

    Daddel.







    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post


    Paul owns Ball's, watches that is, because there nothing dangling between his legs I guess..........

    Daddel.


    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post


    There you go, I hope your dutch is up to scratch arsehole.

    Daddel.



    Quote Originally Posted by Daddelvirks View Post

    True.

    Intelligent comments from a man who doesn't know his top end from his bottom.

    Maybe he is a spotty 15yr old saving up for a Seiko 5, but so what? He has some valid points to make, unlike you. Do we have to impressed by your buying and selling shit you don't seem to like for very long anyway?



    Daddel.


    [B]Quote Originally Posted by [/B]Daddelvirks View Post

    You get sillier by the day, and I might even call you a troll, because that's what you are doing now.

    Grow up get a life and grow a beard.

    Daddel.

    Daddel.

  42. #42
    Master Kakadu's Avatar
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    why don't the two of you open a clearly marked thread and bash hell out of each other in private...
    now...........now for the watches

  43. #43
    De Bethune in the flesh are stunning - the blue dial is like liquid. Habring, Ferrier, Speake M all also favourites of mine. Pita watch shown above also nice.

    Re Ressence's use of ETA movements, I think it's a safe bet to say they do quite a lot to them

    Has anyone mentioned Sarpanova? He uses ETA movements wHich will put off some but dials are stunning

  44. #44
    Master Tim63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dapper View Post
    Aerowatch, a family-owned Swiss independent... http://www.aerowatch.com/collections...h-en/1942-en-3

    Good quality & reasonable prices. I particularly like the 1942 range that echoes the styling of their pocket-watch origins.

    My two ...







    .....er, if I have to ask 'what is reasonable?', hope that doesn't mean I cannot afford it! Love the look of both models, but the cushion shaped case is a real belter....great find. I'll be downloading the brochure tomorrow, when in work!! Many thanks. Tim

  45. #45
    Master Paul J's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dean in Canuckistan View Post
    There is something about Bremonts, particularly the ALT1-C and Supermarine, that really speak to me.
    I totally agree, though I confess it's also a bit of a 'British' thing. On the look-out for the right one now.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul J View Post
    I totally agree, though I confess it's also a bit of a 'British' thing. On the look-out for the right one now.
    Similar. I like them and I like the fact that they're a British company. I'm torn about waiting for them to go fully in-house - my concern is that the prices will thereby sky-rocket and the size of the cases will probably increase to proportions I'm not fond of (similar to what happened with Breitling and IWC recently).

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edu View Post
    De Bethune in the flesh are stunning - the blue dial is like liquid. Habring, Ferrier, Speake M all also favourites of mine. Pita watch shown above also nice.

    Re Ressence's use of ETA movements, I think it's a safe bet to say they do quite a lot to them

    Has anyone mentioned Sarpanova? He uses ETA movements wHich will put off some but dials are stunning
    Of course the 2824 is very heavily modified. But still its the same basic movement as in a three hundred quid watch.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh B View Post
    Of course the 2824 is very heavily modified. But still its the same basic movement as in a three hundred quid watch.
    Or a £2.5k Tudor Pelagos

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dapper View Post
    Or a £2.5k Tudor Pelagos
    Or the €23,000 Ressence!

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh B View Post
    Or the €23,000 Ressence!
    Or the £2.5k Tudor Pelagos!

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