Condensation Problem

[redrum]

Morning chaps,

This is our first winter in our new house and we've started getting some pretty bad condensation issues.

The worst affected area is the utility room which is single skin and has started to develop some pretty bad mould. We originally tried to keep on top of it by a daily clean with some bleach diluted in soapy water but it's gotten so bad that the room now needs redecorating.

It's not just the utility room though, we had new double glazing fitted throughout before we moved in (Feb 2013) and the sealant on some windows has already started to develop mould growth too. Not pretty and apparently very bad for our health if left for long periods.

So I feel now is the time to get a proper solution worked out and installed asap. I've done some research and a few different places have suggested a loft installed air ventilation system. That seems to make sense to me (i.e. replace the vapour laden air with fresh air from outside) however I'm not convinced that will sort the issue in the utility out as it's just about the furthest point in the house away from the upstairs landing. So I'm guessing a similar but smaller air ventilation product installed in the utility room is required as well.

Has anyone had similar problems and managed to find a successful solution? If so, what product did you go for and who did you use to install it? E.g. did you use a damp specialist or did you just buy the product and find an electrician to fit independently?

Any insights would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Lee

[aldfort]

OK first off the problems may not be connected.

Let's start with the main house. What's it made of (i.e. is it a standard brick cavity? does it have insulation in the cavity, when was it built?)

Generally the problem is lack of ventilation, people close all the windows to "keep the heat in" - never a good idea as you keep all the humidity in as well and it quite naturally condenses on the colder surfaces. One way around this is to use a dehumidifier (which will add to your energy bill) or as you've mentioned to improve ventilation. You can often do this by opening transom (fan-light) windows a little in a few rooms. You'd be amazed the difference it that can make. Of course bathrooms need to be ventilated and a fan is by far the best option for this.
If there is excess moisture then get somebody in to check the internal walls to see how damp they are.

If the utility room is single skin you might be suffering from penetrating damp as well as from the effects of a tumble drier etc. Again ventilation is the answer, maybe using an expelair fan or similar that works when the room is in use. You could also try a water proofing product from Thompsons on the outside of the building.

Can't really say more until the question at the top of the post is answered.

[MerlinShepherd]

I was the freeholder of a house a few years back and the flat downstairs (for which I was responsible) had a window free toilet at the front of the house, which was cold from all sides.

The black point mould was shocking and they complained of damp, despite me having a full damp course (guaranteed for 25 years!) installed when I bought. I told them they needed to ventilate and that it wasn't damp. They were pretty obnoxious about it and so I called in a damp specialist who took (literally) one look and sniff and said it was black point that can ONLY grow on condensed water as any seeped water is too impure for it. They got furious and shouted at him, then me but eventually calmed down and installed ventilation and allowed free airflow by keeping the door open at all times other than when the room was in use. They also kept a window open at the back of the house and the flow of air stopped the mould forming within a week or two.

[higham5]

See above for the better solutions on material of construction etc

Seems bizarre but fitting a ggod extraction in our kitchen (upstairs) reduced dampness downstairs. Reason we live upstairs so rads were always higher, moisture laden air went down stairs and condensed. We approached in two ways, 1 work out where the moisture is being generated and put local ventilation near there.

2 Short term hire or buy a dehumidifier. We have one which is on auto and cuts in about June July when outside humidity increases. Ironically it doesnt utter a peep from Oct to March as cold weather drops outside humidity

Hope this helps

[redrum]

Thanks for the replies chaps.

In answer to some questions, it's a detatched property with cavity wall insulation built in 1945. The utility is single skin but I had a damp guy take a look and he confirmed it's just a condensation problem rather than penetrating damp.

I bought a hygrometer to measure moisture levels. We've an open plan kitchen/diner and in that area the relative humidity levels were late 60s/early 70s at all times. I think the lowest it went down to at any point was 66%. In the utility where we've started drying clothes due to wet weather not allowing us to dry outside, the RH was late 70s at all times and in the 80s when drying clothes!!! No wonder we've started getting mould in there!!! Our bedroom was late 60s/early 70s which would explain why we had condensation on the windows every morning.

Anyway, I've gone down the ventilation route and it seems to have had quite a big impact. I've had a positive input ventilation unit fitted in the loft. I went for the Nuaire Drimaster 2000, the guy who fitted it was helpful, quick and courteous. Only took him about 3 hours all in.

There are 6 settings and we're just on level 3. The very next day after it was installed, there was hardly any condensation on the windows whereas usually we'd barely be able to see out of them first thing in the morning. The following day there was practically no condensation on any windows and it's continued that way since.

I've taken some more RH measurements and everywhere has dropped by quite a bit, the kitchen/diner hovers anywhere between 55% and 65% (when cooking/steaming bottles etc). The utility room has dropped down to between 60% and 65% unless we're drying clothes in there, in which case it's shooting back up again so I think I'll get an extractor fan fitted in there to help deal with that.

The one slight downside, which is what my research had suggested and the guy who fitted also advised, is that if you stand directly under the fan then you can feel a slight movement of air which makes it feel more chilly than it would otherwise. That coupled with not having a radiator in the hallway means it feels quite fresh when standing underneath it but for me that's a small price to pay in exchange for having mould growing throughout my house on the brand new windows and freshly decorated walls.

When researching these PIV units it's clear that people either completely love them or think they're a total waste of money, there doesn't seem to be much middle ground. My experience so far is that the unit has had a very positive impact on the RH/condensation levels and for me, I think it's money well spent.

Cheers,
Lee

[gilford]

I've been getting condensation problems in our bedroom, not a lot but a bit of black mould in the top corner of the room, I have also been told it's lack of air movement etc.

I've looked at these PIV thingies but don't think it would do much good in the hall as the only problem is in the bedroom and the door is shut all evening.

How much noise does it make? Could I install it in the bedroom ceiling?

[ralphy]

Not a complete solution, but a de-humidifier will improve things considerably.

We gave up trying to cure a damp area of our previous property and bought a portable de-humidifier, it did the job. Still use it in our current place at this time of year & it’s quite impressive how much moisture it takes out of the air every day.

R