The first wristwatch

[java]

Just about everyone and his dog claims to have produced the first wristwatch. Many of them have some considerable back up story to support their claims. In most cases with a little research it is fairly easy to see that being around at the time seems to be sufficient reason to make such a claim.
Clearly someone must have done it first. I am not of the view that several people have the same significantly original idea at the same time.
Whoever did actually produce the first is not really the issue. In terms of iconic recognition, it matters much more who ends up being perceived by most people to have been the first. This particular laurel could go to two or three people. I chuck it at Cartier, for the Santos. Why? Mostly, if I am honest, because it is a nice story. Alberto Santos Dumont,in 1904, was chatting one day to his friend Louis Cartier and said. Louis, I am going to crash my plane one of these days if someone doesn't make me a timepiece I can see without taking my hands off the controls. To which Louis replied. Here mate have this one , you can tie it to your wrist with this bit of leather . So the wristwatch was born, and so this Santos watch by Cartier earns its place as one of the true great icons of wristwatch history. If not truly the first, certainly close enough for me.

Anyway. I wandered into WOS on Saturday, with no intention at all of buying anything While plying me with a very nice coffee, they produced this pre-owned with a new OEM Gator strap, full set and with two year guarantee, Santos 100 XL. The asking price seemed already very reasonable. I opened my mouth at a figure I doubted they would accept, but suited me swimmingly, they accepted. I am now the very proud owner of what I see as one of the great icons of horology.
Frankly, I love it. It is big, bold and superbly well made. It assumes a commanding position on the wrist and holds its head high, like a prince among watches.
It is comfortable, and has a nice weight. The curve of the caseback sets it very neatly on the wrist. The combination of polished and satin finishes give it a distinguished appearance, well ahead of its price point. A bargain even at MRP IMO and certainly a bargain at what I paid.
A keeper? Definitely.

Here are some photos

[burnsey66]

It doesn't matter about exact details, but what is for sure is Cartier are accepted as being at the forefront of the wristwatch and are a hugely popular brand worldwide.

I had that exact watch as my daily wearer for some time and recently (well, when i say recently, it was after you posted about nabbing this one over the weekend) have decided its time to turn back the clock. I'm waiting for my AD to sharpen his pencil and hopefully will be the owner of a brand spanker this week.

To sum up the Santos 100 XL, I liken it to a Casio 5600 for those with class

[PJ S]

It's square!
None of the screws line up on the bezel.
Did I mention that it's square?

[java]

It's square!
None of the screws line up on the bezel.
Did I mention that it's square?

It is square. But did you not know that the alignment of the bezel screws follow a secret mathematical sequence that once understood will provide proof of the infinity of prime numbers.

Really, some people know nothing at all

[carvass]

The first wristwatch was made for a woman, Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, by Swiss watch manufacturer Patek Philippe in 1868. Although it was the first timekeeping device to be designed specifically for use on the wrist, it was intended primarily as a piece of decorative jewellery.
However, the practicalities of the wristwatch, which could be operated with one hand rather than two, eventually won over popular opinion, appealing especially to those in the military, who needed to be able to monitor the time while also operating machinery and weaponry. Consequently, the first wristwatches to be produced in large quantities were those manufactured specifically for the German military in the 1880s by Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux.

According to Guinness Book of records...

Anyway, I completely agree with the idea of "iconic recognition"... how many models still being produced can trace their pedigree to 1904?

[Geralt]

Never been a fan of roman numerals or square watches, so this should be a 'No, thanks' from the get-go. But, I have to say that really does look fantastic. Easy to see why it's stood the test of time (pun intended).

[Lomax99]

Classy watch, real presence and elegance. I bought one of these new when they first came out, sadly long gone.

[Mr Tetley]

Lovely watch. Cartier seem to be popping up on here quite a bit at the moment. Good to see.

Wear in good health, nice to see a new pair of boots on it etc etc ;-)

[walkerwek1958]

I'm convinced my (smallish) wrists are the wrong shape for square watches; they always look like a clock stuck on my wrist unless they're small and slim...which rules out most modern stuff.

As for Cartier, I`ve never really considered owning one. I tend to discount them as 'jewellery' watches which is a misconception on my part that I`ve somehow managed to hang onto, despite acquiring wisdom over the years in most things watch-related. Maybe it's time to challenge my misconception and see Cartier in a different light.....admitting to myself that I got it wrong!

This one looks superb and I really can`t think of anything not to like about it. My collection could do with something different, and a Cartier would definitely tick the boxes. I could buy a used one needing some TLC and sort it out myself.....maybe it's time to start looking. As a fan of bimetal watches I`d consider one of the gold/steel models which are far too unfashionable for many TZers thesedays.

I`m in Leeds for a while tomorrow......might just have a trip to the watch shops for a gander!

Paul

[PJ S]

It is square. But did you not know that the alignment of the bezel screws follow a secret mathematical sequence that once understood will answer provide proof of the infinity of prime numbers.

Really, some people know nothing at all

Look, when the infinitesimal prime number intersects with the integer of Pi, itself derived from Pythagorus' Theorem on subtended fulcrums, we know that it cannot be inversely proportional to the square law.
Ergo, Cartier got it wrong and a watch is circular, with parallel slotted screw heads!

Dear God! It's like teaching your granny how to suck eggs.

[SeanST150]

I don't think I'd own one. But it does look good on your wrist.

[java]

Look, when the infinitesimal prime number intersects with the integer of Pi, itself derived from Pythagorus' Theorem on subtended fulcrums, we know that it cannot be inversely proportional to the square law.
Ergo, Cartier got it wrong and a watch is circular, with parallel slotted screw heads!

And they make round ones for that very reason and for all those who know all that, yet still haven't understood the secret sequence.

[DS3R]

If Phil Spencer didn't have one, I would.

and I chronically dislike the screws on my Calibre de Cartier, but still, its so well built, and is such a feelgood watch, for no single good reason, it too is one never to go.

[PJ S]

And they make round ones for that very reason and for all those who know all that, yet still haven't understood the secret sequence.

It's not a secret, Fibonacci worked it out years ago using Arabic numerals, not Roman ones – they were so passé by then.
You're thinking of the Da Vinci Code.

[learningtofly]

Lovely, Tim, and you'll recall that we were talking about these a week or two ago so you know I mean it! The Santos is a genuine icon, and of course I wrote a fairly long incoming post about the Basculante (which is also worthy of recognition). Those who consider Cartier as nothing more than jewellery need to go and do a little research, methinks.

[Aquavit]

Being an aviation fan I really like the story behind this and the watch looks great.

I do like square and tonneau (is that the right word) cases but they aren't easy to find, in my pre TZUK days I had a Festina quartz chrono with such a case and I loved the design of it. But I'm not keen on Roman numerals, so I guess a Cartier Santos chrono with indices (or 3-6-9 at a push) would fit the bill for me. Does such a watch exist?

Quick afterthought, the GO Senator Sixty comes close I think??

[kungfugerbil]

What happened to ditching your stainless watches for precious metal only? ;)

Handsome watch though and looks cracking on the gator. Lovely.

[jonny]

I'm convinced my (smallish) wrists are the wrong shape for square watches; they always look like a clock stuck on my wrist unless they're small and slim...which rules out most modern stuff.

As for Cartier, I`ve never really considered owning one. I tend to discount them as 'jewellery' watches which is a misconception on my part that I`ve somehow managed to hang onto, despite acquiring wisdom over the years in most things watch-related. Maybe it's time to challenge my misconception and see Cartier in a different light.....admitting to myself that I got it wrong!

This one looks superb and I really can`t think of anything not to like about it. My collection could do with something different, and a Cartier would definitely tick the boxes. I could buy a used one needing some TLC and sort it out myself.....maybe it's time to start looking. As a fan of bimetal watches I`d consider one of the gold/steel models which are far too unfashionable for many TZers thesedays.

I`m in Leeds for a while tomorrow......might just have a trip to the watch shops for a gander!

Paul

They do the same watch that Java bought but in a mid size , it would be perfect for a 6.5 inch wrist.It really is a stunning , classy watch.

[java]

What happened to ditching your stainless watches for precious metal only? ;)

Handsome watch though and looks cracking on the gator. Lovely.

I now have 15 precious metal watches and only 6 SS watches. 4 of the SS watches are not replaceable in Gold so they will stay. If I find a Santos in gold at sensible money, I will buy it and sell this one. Meanwhile I will enjoy this one in steel. The relationship between my intentions and actions, re acquiring watches is not too dissimilar to that of LTF (Tony)

[Chris_in_the_UK]

I now have 15 precious metal watches and only 6 SS watches. 4 of the SS watches are not replaceable in Gold so they will stay. If I find a Santos in gold at sensible money, I will buy it and sell this one. Meanwhile I will enjoy this one in steel. The relationship between my intentions and actions, re acquiring watches is not too dissimilar to that of LTF (Tony)

Indeed - and enjoy Tim

[learningtofly]

*ahem*

[Chris_in_the_UK]

*ahem*

Indeed.......

Bit of good old fashioned flattery methinks!

[java]

*ahem*

Lurking in the sidelines

[champagne_james]

Very elegant, great watch and story. We have seen a few Cartiers on here lately and I'm easily seduced!

[merloplano]

how is the clasp on your? in the past i have checked three different ones at the same ad (not the xl, and i don't know if all the models share the same clasp) and all of them had significant side play. it was not a snug and tight lock. as cartier was the company which owns the patent for the iwc inge bracelet, they know for sure how to design a clasp. i just don't know if they cannot manufacture one properly, or if was extremely unlucky with my samples

[java]

how is the clasp on your? in the past i have checked three different ones at the same ad (not the xl, and i don't know if all the models share the same clasp) and all of them had significant side play. it was not a snug and tight lock. as cartier was the company which owns the patent for the iwc inge bracelet, they know for sure how to design a clasp. i just don't know if they cannot manufacture one properly, or if was extremely unlucky with my samples

TBH It's one of the best designed and executed deployant clasps I have seen. Shuts tight and easily, no sideways shift or slackness when shut. Looks strong enough to stand up to some abuse as well.

[Huertecilla]

Does anyone of you know which quartz caliber Cartier used/uses in the Santos models?
Is it the Cal.690?

[learningtofly]

[/thread]

[java]

Does anyone of you know which quartz caliber Cartier used/uses in the Santos models?
Is it the Cal.690?

I looked in mine and it didn't look anything like that. Couldn't find the battery, they must have hidden it under that twirly thing, which I guess is some kind of cooling fan.

[Huertecilla]

I looked in mine and it didn't look anything like that. Couldn't find the battery, they must have hidden it under that twirly thing, which I guess is some kind of cooling fan.

Ah.. the wiggly spring technology! Very pretty and highly fashionable. Surprisingly accurate too for such an ancient concept.

The ´fan´ is a brake on the main spring which is housed in a drum and which is the pre-battery power source. The two draw backs are inconsistant tension as it unwinds and a considerable load on the gear train between the drum and the brake.
Automatic winding of the spring deminishes the differences in tension but adds hight and the load on the gears and the brake remains; it is thís which necessitates regular meticulous maintenance. The battery and stepper motor eliminate all of that hassle and adds post modern accuracy which is of a different order.

Anyway, I have meanwhile found that Cartier indeed uses the Cal. 690 in the Santos gent´s models. The only other manufacturer which uses the Cartier calibers is Ebel.
The VERY well made calibers are said to be ´in house´ Cartier but this is highly unlikely and they seem to be in house quite elaborated custom spec. ETA designs.
I like them a lot and would really enjoy owning an 18k yg mid size Santos with 690 inside.

Edit:
It is the 687 in the Santos.
The Tank houses the 690 and the Must/Calibre the 688.

[jwg663]

I do like that Santos 100 XL.

I'm not usually swayed by "who wears what", but Cartier should pay Jeremy Kyle not to wear his Calibre de Cartier on TV

[merloplano]

thanks Tim, i will pay a visit to a diferent AD then. i really liked the santos as it has proper wr and some lume, but the clasp put me off. cartier started from a dress design and make it rugged for everyday life, instead of making a tool watch a bit more delicate: the former is a less common approach, and it works well

[java]

The battery and stepper motor eliminate all of that hassle and adds post modern accuracy which is of a different order.

And, you forgot to mention, removes any connection at all to the condition of the universe and the true passage of time.

[Huertecilla]

And, you forgot to mention, removes any connection at all to the condition of the universe and the true passage of time.

No because it doesn´t.
The temperature affects the frequency and the oscilator needs to be pre-aged to compensate for the passage of time.

Basically there is no difference between a watch with a spring oscilator or a quartz crystal oscilator; they are both a power source driving a representation of time controlled by an oscilator; it is just a difference in state of technology.

[java]

No because it doesn´t.
The temperature affects the frequency and the oscilator needs to be pre-aged to compensate for the passage of time.

Basically there is no difference between a watch with a spring oscilator or a quartz crystal oscilator; they are both a power source driving a representation of time controlled by an oscilator; it is just a difference in state of the soul.

Fixed that for you

[Huertecilla]

Fixed that for you

If you would pause to think beyond repeating this platitude you will find that mechanical contraptions are wáy further removed from ´soul´ than piëzo electricity and electronic micro circuitry.

Back on topic we need to remember that we are talking about one of the first wristwatches with at the time most modern caliber inside for a aironautics pioneer. I have little doubt that Alberto Santos Dumont would have used an heq to fly his jet if that tech had been available to him.
Just like John Harrison would without a doubt have used a quartz crystal oscilator if he could have.

On a side note; Nivarox hair springs are made from silicon steel. Silicon is a different morph of the same thing which also forms the quartz cristal. They even bóth oscilate fysically, mechanically! The one at a few vibrations per second, the other at several tenthousand. As I wrote; just two states of tech of the same thing. The latter a bit closer to the essence of soul than the former.

[java]

If you would pause to think beyond repeating this platitude you will find that mechanical contraptions are wáy further removed from ´soul´ than piëzo electricity and electronic micro circuitry.

Back on topic we need to remember that we are talking about one of the first wristwatches with at the time most modern caliber inside for a aironautics pioneer. I have little doubt that Alberto Santos Dumont would have used an heq to fly his jet if that tech had been available to him.
Just like John Harrison would without a doubt have used a quartz crystal oscilator if he could have.

On a side note; Nivarox hair springs are made from silicon steel. Silicon is a different morph of the same thing which also forms the quartz cristal. They even bóth oscilate fysically, mechanically! The one at a few vibrations per second, the other at several tenthousand. As I wrote; just two states of tech of the same thing. The latter a bit closer to the essence of soul than the former.

I'm bored now But mostly because you actually don't get it. You're genuinely not winding me up, you really don't get it . And what makes it funnier is that you think I don't know all this stuff you're spouting and you actually think I don't get it .

[Umbongo]

Despite being firmly in the mechanical watch camp, I find some of the anti-quartz feeling on here to be really rather dumb.

In the grand scheme of things, the owner of a hand-wound machine has exactly the same connection to the universe as the wearer of a machine with a lump of metal swinging around to wind it, or a crystal powered by a battery - and all three globs of non-living matter are equally bereft of "soul". Lol!

That said, "Cilla" does his, totally valid, cause (we all being entitled to an opinion after all) no favours whatsoever - in fact his debating technique actually sets his arguments back more than many of the clumsy logic-free attempts at counter-argument of his opposition.

[shoppy]

A lovely watch Tim and some great photos. Cartier watches as a whole are growing on me, A lovely looking and classical watch.

[PWatch]

as a former 100 Xl owner, I must say what a beautiful piece they are (albeit didn't suit me), the finish between matte and polished SS on the bezel and case is second to none. Shame they use off the shelf movements, but none the less an exquisite piece

[Malcolm68]

Very nice. There's something about these, think I'm going to have to try one at some point.

Malc

[Huertecilla]

Shame they use off the shelf movements,

Firstly there is nothing much to better with the high level of finish version of the 2892-A2 and secondly the 687 is fár from off the shelf.

[Huertecilla]

Found a nice picture: