Reply With QuoteYou should find some great nearly new second hand bikes right about now. New riders often jack it in when the weather goes a bit nasty, and the amount of new bikes sold in the Spring is promising for bargain hunters.
Are discounts available on bikes or are they still so hard to come by that it's not possible? In fact I've only been riding since March, have discounts ever been available?
You should find some great nearly new second hand bikes right about now. New riders often jack it in when the weather goes a bit nasty, and the amount of new bikes sold in the Spring is promising for bargain hunters.
Not only that, they went up! Specialized, Canyon and a few others have just upped their prices. The diverge I bought for £2,199 is now £2,600. They're cashing in.Originally Posted by ~dadam02~
Are discounts available on bikes or are they still so hard to come by that it's not possible? In fact I've only been riding since March, have discounts ever been available?
In normal times you can get discounts I think, but very unlikely when paying with a cycle scheme voucher as the voucher company take a big percentage.
Demand is unfortunately rather high this year. More people are riding at least, so that's good.
Thanks all, I feared it was going to be the case. I can't get my work to budge on implementing the cycle to work scheme so looking for another way to save money.
Where's best to look? I've been keeping an eye on eBay but asking prices seem toppy still.
I listed my old best bike here and got no interest. Put it on eBay for £800 and it sold almost instantly. Probably undersold it.
Bikes are in demand.
Last edited by Montello; 16th November 2020 at 22:08.
And straight to the top of my Xmas present list (even if it is the price of a small car...) - https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/p...-follow-476062
Advice wanted,please read my full description.
I have a Halfords electric mountain bike,I should have probably bought a hybrid or something like it.
Its a mountain bike but I just plod along on canal paths and the like,I don't get the wheels of the ground,I am scared to go fast down hill even.
Basically I have it for exercise and fresh air so I am not using it for its purpose,but I like it.
So the question is the bars feel way to wide and hinder me on cycle paths,gates,getting the bike in/out my shed and are uncomfortable.
they are 760mm wide Halfords say they can cut an inch or two of the ends,
Is this a bad idea,what would you recommend?
I have googled but the advice seems to be for pros using bikes at the full potential.
Local Facebook groups, bike shops, BikeRadar and other similar forums would be a good start I'd say. Gumtree is full of nicked bikes so I'm not sure I'd buy off there.
Assuming you are talking about aluminium bars I can't see it being a problem. Unless you take a massive amount off you won't drastically alter the handling. Maybe an inch at a time to see how it feels. Aluminium bars are pretty cheap as well, so an alternative would just be buying narrower ones.
Close your eyes, put your arms out in front at just below chest height and make fists.
That’s how wide your bars should be. As you found out the width is for control at speed or in tight twisty singletrack. Not things you will encounter.
As long as there is enough room for grips and brakes/shifters before the rise/sweep bit in the middle of the bars then it should be good to narrow them. You can do it yourself with a hacksaw and an Allen key to move the brakes etc. Maybe take a bit off and try before cutting narrower.
Measure twice, cut once!
I asked about buying some narrow bars,they suggested cutting mine down,
I cut mine down to suit my grip width and it was a half hour job. Try and get the cut as square as possible so the end pieces fit back nice and neatly. I used a plumbers pipe cutter, worked a treat.
As Mr Smith says, start by moving your brake levers and shifters in by 15 mm each side. Leave the grips where they are, see how that feels. If OK , remove the grips either they will have allen head grips or just be friction / push fit. Cut the bars with a hacksaw then have a few rides. If you still want narrower, repeat. Remember as you cut the bars you will start to become more upright so weight will increase slightly on the saddle and you will not feel as “ stretched “
Steve
The specialised Vado 4SL I looked at for my missus in August was £2600 now £2900.
Steve
If anyone wants a women's road bike I will soon have a Specalized Ruby Carbon Bike size 49 for sale ... wife has upgraded.
you will not feel as “ stretched “
that would be a big bonus,thanks for the advice everyone.
Evans Cycles in Bayswater was open on Saturday.
Oh yeah, now I think about it - they usually have a workshop on site, so they’re considered essential.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I might have a spare like new (not been outdoors) SL6 Tarmac or Used but superb S-Works SL4 if you are a 56cmAre discounts available on bikes or are they still so hard to come by that it's not possible? In fact I've only been riding since March, have discounts ever been available?
RIAC
One of the best rides this past summer, doing some gravel with the road bike.
If you still feel stretched out after trimming the bars then you could buy a “riser” bar. Many MTBs come with almost flat bars but you can get bars that rise up from the stem by various amounts. If your bars are relatively flat at the moment then you’d really notice the difference moving to a bar with a rise of 35-40mm which would put you in a more upright position.
Something like this...
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...s/rp-prod31135
Last edited by benny.c; 17th November 2020 at 21:07.
I had it serviced at Halfords today,they cut an inch off either side it doesn't sound much but its a big difference.
very glad I didn't go for more off.
Orbea OMX? Nearly got one but got a deal on a Scott addict RC, both excellent bikes.One of the best rides this past summer, doing some gravel with the road bike.
What tyres have you gone for when off road?
It is the OMX yes, the Scott is a nice bike too! I've had Michelin Power Endurance 28mm tires on the bike all season. I run around 4,5bar and have had no issues on good condition gravel roads, I must have done at least a 1000km on gravel with the bike. There is plenty of space in the frame and forks so small stones don't get caught there. Ability to ride gravel roads has been a lot of fun, I have found many nice loops that can only be made riding a bit of gravel on the way.
I tried out my shorter bars today they are much better.
But even with shades on I couldn't see in the low sun,what solution do you recommend is there a peaked cap designed to fit under a safety lid or something?
just get some cycling caps and wear one under the helmet... Helps to stop sweat getting in your eyes in the summer and also helps when its raining..
I bought this one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castelli-...fNDs8&LH_BIN=1
Yep - that will work nicely under your cycling helmet, good price too!
I've just gone tubeless on my emtb. I decided to after riding buddies frequent recommendation. Firstly I thought it would be easier just to fit slime tubes but it all went wrong and it proved nigh impossible to get the tyre back on with the slime tube in place, I even managed to pinch the tube ffs. So, I decided to revert to original plan and go proper tubeless. Bought a bottle of sealant and a couple of valve inserts from Decathlon, £12. I discovered my Cube rim tape is tbs ready so it was just necessary to give tyrebead and rimwall a clean then lubricate them with sealant. I put most of the tyre on rim then tipped about 80ml of sealant into the lower area and popped the rest of the tyre on which was quite easy when lubricated. It necessary to 'blast' the tyre with air so that the bead cracks on firmly and you need either a compressor or a charge track pump, luckily I have the former and previous life experience fitting motorcycle tyres didn't do any harm. Anyway all done now and it was interesting to find a tiny hole from a previous puncture that has sealed itself. Hope it's worth all the trouble.
I run tubeless. Usually works but always carry a spare tube just in case.
My partially restored Cannondale M2000 from 1992.
Don’t forget you generally need to replace the sealant annually
I bought a big bottle and I'll use a syringe to top up
Really like the colour scheme on that - looks very cool!It is the OMX yes, the Scott is a nice bike too! I've had Michelin Power Endurance 28mm tires on the bike all season. I run around 4,5bar and have had no issues on good condition gravel roads, I must have done at least a 1000km on gravel with the bike. There is plenty of space in the frame and forks so small stones don't get caught there. Ability to ride gravel roads has been a lot of fun, I have found many nice loops that can only be made riding a bit of gravel on the way.
I bought a new bike in October 2018 to motivate and treat myself after a bad RTC in the Spring of that year.. I have only just started riding it since July as I have had two hip operations in two years as a result of the crash..and I was a bit fearfull getting back out on the roads.. Good news is I'm getting a lot stronger now and the hip feels good..
I'm really pleased with how this bike rides and how light it is for a disc bike without paying out 10k and I love the electronic gears. Only thing is I think the colour scheme is a bit boring compared to other bikes, such as the Orbea up above.. I hope the 'acid yellow' makes me a bit more visible - with the matching mitts to go with it !
It is a Felt FR2 with 11 speed SRAM Etap.. My previous best bike was also a Felt - a Felt F1 that now lives on the Tacx Neo.
I have got a really nice set of handbuilt tubeless wheels for it; MCFK carbon rims wt Sapim CX Rays and Tune hubs, built up by DCR Wheels nr Lewes..
Only thing is I wanted to ride the bike with the standard wheels and get used to it and how they feel before putting on the carbon wheels. Now that we are in November I don't think I'll bother until the Spring...
I have to flip the stem 'cos my lower back can't handle a big drop from saddle to the bars.
Last edited by bry nylon; 20th November 2020 at 19:33.
Anyone had experience of Stolen Goat kit?
Looking for something different to the usual suspects........
I’ve got their gravel shorts and a few merino gravel tops which are decent enough quality. Also have a few of their regular cotton T-shirts which went horribly out of shape in the wash which was disappointing.
I’ve got a 20% discount code which I won’t use if you want it. Please only take it if you are definitely ordering though as it’s a single use code and I’d like someone to benefit from it.
Last edited by benny.c; 21st November 2020 at 12:41.
Many thanks for responding and if you are still ok to pass on I’ll PM you for the code. Appreciated.
Just got a new Dolan SL Letape, my first venture into DI2....... Impressive !!!
I have DI2, very much a fan even if has let me down on a couple of occasions (Watlington Hill in 7th gear anyone?!). I find because it's so easy it's much easier always to be in the optimum gear.
Have both DA Di2 and SRAM Red Etap and prefer Red personally for ease although syncro is nice
RIAC
I’ve been on Di2 for 4 years. Touch wood it’s not missed a beat and performed perfectly.
For the record I also have mechanical snd that works perfect too
RIAC
11 speed Campagnolo mechanical, doesn't get any better
I have a boxfresh SRAM Red Etap groupset to put on my new bike build.
My other experience is 30 year old XTR 3x8 speed ( which still works flawlessly tbf), so I’m expecting a different experience...
Sorry, I missed your post earlier. Funny coincidence, but I actually had a Felt FR2 before the OMX! I liked the bike a lot, Felt makes super nice frames. It is bit of an older generation frame regarding the maximum tire widths, it also has a very aggressive race geometry.
I did like the SRAM Red but never got the front derailleur perfect like you get it with Shimano Di2.
Not a perfect picture, but it's got me missing Mallorca. This pic was taken at the last riding camp we had with friends around a year ago.
With all this groupset chat now is the time for me to ask if anyone has an SRAM force hydraulic right hand shifter in their spares box? Huge long shot but you never know. I rounded off the banjo bolt while changing hose swapping over to a new frame, this despite using a fancy wera torque driver set at 4Nm
I also need a flat mount caliper.
Coronanomics means I need to avoid spending £280 if possible.
(I do have a pair of force22 analogue shifters and caliper brakes available should anyone be building up a bike.)
My Italian Stallion tucked away waiting for spring
RIAC
Beautiful!
Very nice
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