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Thread: Noob hello!

  1. #1
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    Noob hello!

    Just saying hi, and apologising in advance for what will certainly be annoying noob questions I'll doubtless have!

    I may as well get the first one out of the way, but hopefully it'll double as a little background to me and my watch, so still count as a hello post...

    I'd admired and desired watches, particularly from Ebel and Omega from being a child, gazing at the shiny, precision jewellery hewn from chunks of solid metal in wonder on trips to London. Finally, in 1998, I had the opportunity to own an Omega Seamaster which I purchased on a trip to San Francisco, where the exchange rate at that time was exceptionally good, and there are famous jewellers. I ended up with a Seamaster Professional, quartz movement, in a midsize face, which I wore day-in-day out, bar the occasional Omega service, until last year when a link pin broke. I just had it serviced with Omega, but while in the shop looking at the shiny new ones, decided that while it's freshly serviced and shiny, I would upsize to a full-size face (I was younger when I bought my mid-size and hadn't been to the gym for years like I have now). Plus I love the newer-style Seamaster face with the black face, rectangular markers and newer bezel (is there a specific name for these models?). Or the Planet Ocean.

    So I'm looking to sell mine and buy another used model in one of the post-2000 Seamaster Pros, or Planet Oceans. Might I ask if there are any known safe/reputable dealers or places to buy, and if there is anything particular to watch out for in terms of fakes, etc.? Also, anything to watch out for in owning an automatic movement, as I'm used to a quartz?

    Am I right in thinking that I should be able to pick up something in good condition in terms of what I'm looking for, used for around or under about £2000?

    OK, quite enough questions for now, sorry about that!

    James

  2. #2
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    there are certainly many dealers out there to choose from. you can look on chrono24 to have an idea on prices. 2K is definitely within range of a used omega seamaster planet ocean. i suggest you post a Want to Buy Ad on the WTB section of this forum as well. cheaper if you buy off one of the TZer's. Just make sure they have good references!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shin View Post
    there are certainly many dealers out there to choose from. you can look on chrono24 to have an idea on prices. 2K is definitely within range of a used omega seamaster planet ocean. i suggest you post a Want to Buy Ad on the WTB section of this forum as well. cheaper if you buy off one of the TZer's. Just make sure they have good references!
    Thanks, I appreciate it!

    I've had a quick look on chrono24, and will post a WTB here, if I'm allowed- I seem to remember when I signed up today that you have to have a certain number of posts to get into the sales section?

    There are quite a few watches that I liked on chrono24 - in terms of 'reputation' on there, if they're a 'trusted seller' does that actually mean I can trust them? Most seem to be overseas also, is it OK to trade with them? Sorry, I'm genuinely green with this world...

    When you say to check references on here, how would I do that?

    I seem to be seeing a lot of Omega's which, to my eye, look exactly the same, but differ wildly in price, and I'm struggling to identify different models and sizes- is there a noob guide to this kind of stuff anywhere, please?

    Thanks so much,

    James

  4. #4
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    BTW, is there a name for the type of Seamaster which had the 'rectangular' 5-min markers as opposed to the 'round' ones as on my watch? Did it exist for a while, and then get replaced by the Planet Ocean?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    BTW, is there a name for the type of Seamaster which had the 'rectangular' 5-min markers as opposed to the 'round' ones as on my watch? Did it exist for a while, and then get replaced by the Planet Ocean?
    Welcome to the forum! I'm not too sure which Seamaster you are referring too but someone more knowledgable will be around soon I'm sure.

    Technically you have the Seamaster Pro, Seamaster Aqua Terra and Seamaster Planet Ocean.

    The newest Seamaster Pro is the one with the Ceramic bezel and non-wave gloss dial. It has round markers (just like its predecessor with the wave dial, the "Bond Seamaster") so are you maybe referring to the Seamaster Aqua Terra or the older style Planet Ocean with a 2500 movement.

    Also the Seamaster Pro version before the 'Bond version' had rectangular markers. It's model number was the 2264.50 (quartz) or 2254.50 (auto). These have been out of production for a number of years now.

    Hope some of that makes sense.

  6. #6
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    welcome from one newbie to another.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    Welcome to the forum! I'm not too sure which Seamaster you are referring too but someone more knowledgable will be around soon I'm sure.

    Technically you have the Seamaster Pro, Seamaster Aqua Terra and Seamaster Planet Ocean.

    The newest Seamaster Pro is the one with the Ceramic bezel and non-wave gloss dial. It has round markers (just like its predecessor with the wave dial, the "Bond Seamaster") so are you maybe referring to the Seamaster Aqua Terra or the older style Planet Ocean with a 2500 movement.

    Also the Seamaster Pro version before the 'Bond version' had rectangular markers. It's model number was the 2264.50 (quartz) or 2254.50 (auto). These have been out of production for a number of years now.

    Hope some of that makes sense.
    Hi,

    Thanks for that, yes it does make sense!

    OK, so, I think the current Seamaster Pro looks very similar to my own, whereas the Seamaster Pro I was referring to is the one you described, now I've keyed your code numbers into Google - the 2264.50 and 2254.50. That's so helpful to know that, it was driving me crazy not knowing how to say what I meant.

    So it's either that or the Planet Ocean watches that I'm liking (not that there's anything wrong with the ordinary Seamaster Pros, I just think the other designs are a little 'cleaner' and more 'retro', which I enjoy).

    Is there a code number, or a way of knowing (face size in mm?) whether a particular watch is 'full' or 'mid' sized, etc., please? This kind of info is exactly what I needed

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sligub View Post
    welcome from one newbie to another.
    howdy!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    Hi,

    Thanks for that, yes it does make sense!

    OK, so, I think the current Seamaster Pro looks very similar to my own, whereas the Seamaster Pro I was referring to is the one you described, now I've keyed your code numbers into Google - the 2264.50 and 2254.50. That's so helpful to know that, it was driving me crazy not knowing how to say what I meant.

    So it's either that or the Planet Ocean watches that I'm liking (not that there's anything wrong with the ordinary Seamaster Pros, I just think the other designs are a little 'cleaner' and more 'retro', which I enjoy).

    Is there a code number, or a way of knowing (face size in mm?) whether a particular watch is 'full' or 'mid' sized, etc., please? This kind of info is exactly what I needed
    Unfortunately there is no "universal" Omega code which refers to a watch being mid of full size. It's seems model numbers have gotten very long lately! Have a look at Omegas website for the current Planet Ocean model numbers. It will also give you the size.

    Model no. 2254.50.00 is the full size automatic Seamaster Pro you are referring to.
    2264.50.00 is the full size quartz version of the same watch.
    2252.50.00 is the mid size auto
    2262.50.00 is the mid size quartz.

    These are often regarded as the best looking Seamaster Pro and are very popular. I'm actually looking for one myself!! There are only available pre-owned and I would rather buy of a fellow TZ'er than eBay.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    Welcome to the forum! I'm not too sure which Seamaster you are referring too but someone more knowledgable will be around soon I'm sure.

    Technically you have the Seamaster Pro, Seamaster Aqua Terra and Seamaster Planet Ocean.

    The newest Seamaster Pro is the one with the Ceramic bezel and non-wave gloss dial. It has round markers (just like its predecessor with the wave dial, the "Bond Seamaster") so are you maybe referring to the Seamaster Aqua Terra or the older style Planet Ocean with a 2500 movement.

    Also the Seamaster Pro version before the 'Bond version' had rectangular markers. It's model number was the 2264.50 (quartz) or 2254.50 (auto). These have been out of production for a number of years now.

    Hope some of that makes sense.
    you can check the hero and villain section on this forum as a reference for someone you are going to buy a watch from. that's a start. :)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    Unfortunately there is no "universal" Omega code which refers to a watch being mid of full size. It's seems model numbers have gotten very long lately! Have a look at Omegas website for the current Planet Ocean model numbers. It will also give you the size.

    Model no. 2254.50.00 is the full size automatic Seamaster Pro you are referring to.
    2264.50.00 is the full size quartz version of the same watch.
    2252.50.00 is the mid size auto
    2262.50.00 is the mid size quartz.

    These are often regarded as the best looking Seamaster Pro and are very popular. I'm actually looking for one myself!! There are only available pre-owned and I would rather buy of a fellow TZ'er than eBay.
    Thank you - yep it's definitely that one I like, trust me to want one everyone's after!

    Since I won't be able to get on the sale boards or WTB here for a while, are there any other reputable places I could try to buy? I'm not going near eBay with all the fakes of these around.

    In fact, it wouldn't matter too much to me whether it's quartz or auto, I was used to a quartz anyway. I suppose the auto would be nice in the long run, and perhaps cheaper in terms of not having to be serviced every 2-3 years?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shin View Post
    you can check the hero and villain section on this forum as a reference for someone you are going to buy a watch from. that's a start. :)
    Cool, I hadn't seen that, thanks!

  13. #13
    nice taste in watches,

    dont discount ebay altogether. you just need to be careful and i would only buy from someone with a v good feedback profile.
    also if its too good to be true it normally is

    i bought my seamaster from watchfinder. really good buying experience and not the risk of getting a fake

    all the best

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamm View Post
    nice taste in watches,

    dont discount ebay altogether. you just need to be careful and i would only buy from someone with a v good feedback profile.
    also if its too good to be true it normally is

    i bought my seamaster from watchfinder. really good buying experience and not the risk of getting a fake

    all the best
    Thank you - I've always had 'expensive taste' much to my bank account's detriment :new-wink:

    I'll bide my time until a nice one comes up- the most helpful part was being able to put a name (number!) to what it is I'm looking for.

    I'm sure I'm going to be spending quite a bit of time on here, now I've found it, so it probably won't be that long til I can access the sales section!

    The first search I did on Ebay earlier today showed up quite a few which must have been fakes at the price, and it's so hard to tell especially without seeing something. I suppose, if something is described as a 'genuine' Omega on ebay and you used PayPal, then it turned out to be fake, PP protection should cover you? I dunno whether I'd like to try that claim, though...

    Best wishes

  15. #15
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    Welcome to the forum, plenty of good advice on here. Make good use of the search facility and you will learn a lot very quickly. Regards,

    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    In fact, it wouldn't matter too much to me whether it's quartz or auto, I was used to a quartz anyway. I suppose the auto would be nice in the long run, and perhaps cheaper in terms of not having to be serviced every 2-3 years?
    Automatic watches need a service every 2-4 years as well and you usually end up spending a lot more. Quartz is better in almost every way, the only thing they lack is character. And that's why almost every wis buys automatic (or hand wound) watches.

    As for the bay, I think it's only for experts and fools. As I am neither of those I never go there.

  17. #17
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    Welcome to the Froum, My first watch was a Seamaster. Still love it the most!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by donsaini View Post
    Welcome to the Froum, My first watch was a Seamaster. Still love it the most!
    I had a Seamaster as a first real watch aswell. It's long gone though.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by vivanco11 View Post
    Automatic watches need a service every 2-4 years as well and you usually end up spending a lot more. Quartz is better in almost every way, the only thing they lack is character. And that's why almost every wis buys automatic (or hand wound) watches.

    As for the bay, I think it's only for experts and fools. As I am neither of those I never go there.
    Thanks, that's interesting, I didn't know automatics required such regular servicing as well- is that for lubrication, or anything specific (do they literally seize up if you don't?), or just a general 'check up'? I don't mind a quartz at all apart from the servicing, I was always happy with mine and day-in-day-out I doubt I'd notice much of a difference. They actually seem to be somewhat more rare second-hand though, from what I can see...

    By the way, thanks for the warm welcome everyone!

  20. #20
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    My first was a Seamaster from watchfinder.

  21. #21
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    Actually, this would be really useful to me- can anyone outline the pros and cons of automatic vs quartz, given the same watch style- e.g., longevity of the movement/mechanism, servicing intervals/costs, likely availability of spares, etc. over the long-term?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    Actually, this would be really useful to me- can anyone outline the pros and cons of automatic vs quartz, given the same watch style- e.g., longevity of the movement/mechanism, servicing intervals/costs, likely availability of spares, etc. over the long-term?
    Auto: more delicate vs fragile than quartz yet I still go skiing, diving etc with my autos....the craftsmanship and attention to detail is can also more easily be appreciated.
    Quartz: very resistant but has less soul than an auto...

    Generally you should aim to have auto watches but depending on applications you're allowed a couple quartz watches ;)

  23. #23
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    Quartz is more accurate +/- 1sec a month (or even year) were an auto that does +/- 6sec a day is considered very good.

    If the "soul" of an auto means nothing to you, there's no reason to go auto

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    Welcome! Never been a huge Omega fan, but I've been digging the new Seamaster Bullhead reissue. However, at $8,000, it rather exceeds your price range (and mine!). Perhaps vintage ones are more affordable? In any case, best of luck on your search, and I know our fellow forumites will steer you right.

    --Matthew

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    Thanks guys - everyone here has been very welcoming, and seem very knowledgeable, I'm glad I signed up!

    Hm, well the 'soul' kind of does matter to a degree... the same way I 'loved' my Leica M6, but only use my DSLR as a tool. I wouldn't turn down a good offer on a quartz, but on the other hand (no pun intended!) I have a very accurate Swatch I can wear, or a network accurate iPhone in my pocket if all I want is accurate time these days?

    The whole point of such a watch these days is to have something more than that, to be sure stylish, but I admit there is a certain appeal in owning one, last, precision mechanical (nothing to do with electronics) piece of beautifully engineered equipment. So auto it is, I think!

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by song1818 View Post
    Welcome! Never been a huge Omega fan, but I've been digging the new Seamaster Bullhead reissue. However, at $8,000, it rather exceeds your price range (and mine!). Perhaps vintage ones are more affordable? In any case, best of luck on your search, and I know our fellow forumites will steer you right.

    --Matthew
    Just googled that and seen the pics of the reissue- it isn't my cup of tea (I think the one I asked about on this thread is about as close as it gets to that) but I can definitely see the retro appeal, and it's a very distinctive, unusual, piece!

  27. #27
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    Guys- just a quick one, if I buy a watch remotely (i.e. mail order, etc.) is it easy enough to add/remove links to fit it to myself? Also can I get spare links from somewhere if I need them and how much do they tend to go for please?

    Sorry for all the dumb questions!

  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    Guys- just a quick one, if I buy a watch remotely (i.e. mail order, etc.) is it easy enough to add/remove links to fit it to myself? Also can I get spare links from somewhere if I need them and how much do they tend to go for please?

    Sorry for all the dumb questions!
    I've been told more than once on this forum that there is no such thing as a dumb question!

    Adding and removing links is straight forward enough. The method for connecting the bracelet links will vary depending on the watch. Some link pins are friction fit, some should only be removed in one direction (you will see an arrow on the back of the bracelet showing the direction), some are screws.

    With the correct (inexpensive) tools it's an easy job. Have a search for bracelet resizing tool. Although a small mallet and link pin pusher will do the job.

    If I can resize a bracelet, anyone can!

    Spare links can be bought but again, depending on the watch, they can be expensive.
    Check out watchpart.co.uk and search e.g Omega links. Unless you have bigger than average wrists or the watch you buy (if pre-owned) has some links missing you shouldn't need to buy extra ones.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sligub View Post
    welcome from one newbie to another.
    Welcome from the third

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by rik_68 View Post
    Welcome from the third
    And fourth... welcome.

  31. #31
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    Wow, a lot of new members recently! Hello and welcome!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    In fact, it wouldn't matter too much to me whether it's quartz or auto, I was used to a quartz anyway. I suppose the auto would be nice in the long run, and perhaps cheaper in terms of not having to be serviced every 2-3 years?
    I own a single quartz watch, and not even remotely expensive at that - Seiko Sportura Titanium Chrono, bought 10 years ago.
    In that time, it's had zero servicing done, and 2 or 3 battery changes.
    Only in the past year or so, has the reset button become slightly troublesome - doesn't rebound to its default position, like the start/stop button still does.
    I don't see why you think or have been convinced that quartz watches need servicing as regularly as 2-3 years.
    For me, it's a £35-40 fix for the button, which on a £300 (at the time) watch is fine - I won't be availing of the offer to relieve me of a further (circa) £90 for a service.


    @vivanco11 - funny you should say autos need a 2-4 year service interval, yet only today I was chatting with Victorinox's service agents about the ETA 2824-2A (Ground Force Titanium) after discussing a bracelet for one I'm considering with the rubber strap, and he stated that manufacturers will say that, but in his experience, once every 5 years is sufficient.
    I've seen other members on (an)other forum(s) say a service is only needed if the watch starts to stray outside its specs or doesn't wind fully, etc.
    I'd have thought over the course of owning a new auto, you'd become attuned to how it behaves during the years with differing temperatures, etc, that you'll know it's not behaving as it normally has, and therefore needs a service or regulated within warranty.
    I would agree with the notion that prevention is better than the cure, but I don't blindly follow that money must be thrown away when it's not absolutely required.

  33. #33
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    Servicing on Omega autos is recommended every 5 years. The new coaxial s recommend a service interval ofm7 years I believe but I would service after 5 years to be on the safe side

    The lifespan on an auto is potentially indefinite depending on care and regular servicing, whereas quartz realistically have a shorter lifespan as eventually the movement will die. I suspect you might be able to replace it though.

    Cheers
    Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    I've been told more than once on this forum that there is no such thing as a dumb question!

    Adding and removing links is straight forward enough. The method for connecting the bracelet links will vary depending on the watch. Some link pins are friction fit, some should only be removed in one direction (you will see an arrow on the back of the bracelet showing the direction), some are screws.

    With the correct (inexpensive) tools it's an easy job. Have a search for bracelet resizing tool. Although a small mallet and link pin pusher will do the job.

    If I can resize a bracelet, anyone can!

    Spare links can be bought but again, depending on the watch, they can be expensive.
    Check out watchpart.co.uk and search e.g Omega links. Unless you have bigger than average wrists or the watch you buy (if pre-owned) has some links missing you shouldn't need to buy extra ones.
    Thanks, that site looks great, and I'll try to pick up a bracelet resizing tool. My wrists are probably average size, so I don't expect there to be a problem in terms of going bigger, but it's always nice to know about links in case I ever need one!

  35. #35
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    Hello to all the fellow new members!

    Thanks for the servicing info, guys. I owned my Seamaster quartz for 14 years and it needed a battery change twice. I elected to have it serviced/pressure tested at the same time both times. Not bad!

    Every 3-5 years doesn't strike me as too onerous in terms of an auto, though.

  36. #36
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    OK, I just googled for a guide on how to resize my bracelet and cllicked on this youtube video in all innocence-

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npMkuZa4fD4

    I'm not sure it's any use in terms of how to do it, but the sheer venom and language the guy uses on a youtube vid about changing watch pins made me laugh (and what he calls himself).

    CAUTION: DO NOT click the link if you're at all offended by bad language. If you aren't worried by such things, it might give you a laugh too.

    Does anyone have a real guide about how to do this properly on an Omega watch, this vid taught me nothing...

  37. #37
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    Back on topic, will the A*F tool on this page http://www.gleaveandco.com/pin_removing_tools.html item Ref. 189.810 allow me to resize a bracelet on an Omega 2254.50 when I get one? Will I need a particular size pin driver to push those pins out, or will the one which comes with it work OK?

    Thanks!

  38. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    Back on topic, will the A*F tool on this page http://www.gleaveandco.com/pin_removing_tools.html item Ref. 189.810 allow me to resize a bracelet on an Omega 2254.50 when I get one? Will I need a particular size pin driver to push those pins out, or will the one which comes with it work OK?

    Thanks!
    I think that would be fine, afaik these tools are fairly "universal". Sometimes the pin driver can bend so best to order some extras.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    I think that would be fine, afaik these tools are fairly "universal". Sometimes the pin driver can bend so best to order some extras.
    Thanks! One of the suppliers I phoned today pretty much put me off trying it myself- told me Omega bracelets were very difficult to adjust and I'd probably damage it unless I was experienced. Apparently there is a very good watch repair specialist near me so I may let him do it, and give it a service at the same time...

  40. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    Thanks! One of the suppliers I phoned today pretty much put me off trying it myself- told me Omega bracelets were very difficult to adjust and I'd probably damage it unless I was experienced. Apparently there is a very good watch repair specialist near me so I may let him do it, and give it a service at the same time...
    If you take your time and have the right tools it's not difficult. I would rather do it myself as I know how careful I will be. But if you have someone you trust with it then go for it.
    But Google it first. There are a few "tutorials" on how to do it.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    If you take your time and have the right tools it's not difficult. I would rather do it myself as I know how careful I will be. But if you have someone you trust with it then go for it.
    But Google it first. There are a few "tutorials" on how to do it.
    I looked some tutorials up, and yes, I think I'd be able to do it fine, I'm careful and used to repairing cars without being too gung ho, etc.

    Oddly though, the watch arrived today (I'm in love!) and it's actually pretty much spot on size-wise (it's a 'perfect' fit, but perhaps could do with a half-link inserting for hot summer's days?) so I may not have to bother initially...

    What I might do, though, and soon, is get a Nato strap for everyday use- the reason being that I'm a writer and type all day with my wrists resting on a Macbook Pro, which is aluminium, and I don't want the bracelet getting scratched on the clasp. The Nato will be softer and not get scratched or scratch my laptop. Then when I want the (beautiful) dressier Omega bracelet I can always pop it back on if I'm going out, or on holiday, etc.

    How does one pop the bracelet on and off? Is there a Nato strap which is particularly fine/recommended? I liked the look of the ones here: http://www.timefactors.com/nato.htm

    James

  42. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Screenplayer View Post
    I looked some tutorials up, and yes, I think I'd be able to do it fine, I'm careful and used to repairing cars without being too gung ho, etc.

    Oddly though, the watch arrived today (I'm in love!) and it's actually pretty much spot on size-wise (it's a 'perfect' fit, but perhaps could do with a half-link inserting for hot summer's days?) so I may not have to bother initially...

    What I might do, though, and soon, is get a Nato strap for everyday use- the reason being that I'm a writer and type all day with my wrists resting on a Macbook Pro, which is aluminium, and I don't want the bracelet getting scratched on the clasp. The Nato will be softer and not get scratched or scratch my laptop. Then when I want the (beautiful) dressier Omega bracelet I can always pop it back on if I'm going out, or on holiday, etc.

    How does one pop the bracelet on and off? Is there a Nato strap which is particularly fine/recommended? I liked the look of the ones here: http://www.timefactors.com/nato.htm

    James

    I use a Bergeon 6767f tool to remove the bracelet. They key is to take your time to avoid any slips and therefore unwanted scrapes. (Some will recommend using masking tape on the lugs while changing to prevent scrapes.) Have a look at this thread, the 9th post down will show you how to change the bracelet on your actual watch:

    http://forums.watchuseek.com/f20/cha...rap-95460.html

    If your going to put on Nato, I personally would protect the caseback with e.g a plastic sticker. If you don't you will get rub marks etc on the case back.

    One last thing to consider when changing from bracelet to strap is that you may have to change the spring bars. Look at this link:

    http://www.ofrei.com/page957.html

    The springbars on your current bracelet may be the OME-SPRING-BAR-04. It would be better to replace them with OME-SPRING-BAR-03. These are slightly longer which is recommended for 20mm straps. (The bracelet actually takes 19mm spring bars).

  43. #43
    Journeyman
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South UK
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    I use a Bergeon 6767f tool to remove the bracelet. They key is to take your time to avoid any slips and therefore unwanted scrapes. (Some will recommend using masking tape on the lugs while changing to prevent scrapes.) Have a look at this thread, the 9th post down will show you how to change the bracelet on your actual watch:

    http://forums.watchuseek.com/f20/cha...rap-95460.html

    If your going to put on Nato, I personally would protect the caseback with e.g a plastic sticker. If you don't you will get rub marks etc on the case back.

    One last thing to consider when changing from bracelet to strap is that you may have to change the spring bars. Look at this link:

    http://www.ofrei.com/page957.html

    The springbars on your current bracelet may be the OME-SPRING-BAR-04. It would be better to replace them with OME-SPRING-BAR-03. These are slightly longer which is recommended for 20mm straps. (The bracelet actually takes 19mm spring bars).
    Thanks, that's so helpful!

    Yeah, I'll probably get a Nato, and possibly a good rubber strap too. I'll get the Burgeon tool and some different springbars.

    I'm totally loving my 2254.50, and I actually love the original bracelet, it looks fantastic and feels comfortable, but already today, I'm aware of it getting scraped if it rubs against the laptop long-term, so I'm def going to change it for everyday use and then just pop it back on for times I'm not working (rare!).

    James

  44. #44
    Apprentice
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Alton
    Posts
    17
    Welcome Screenplayer.
    I have an auto PO that I've owned for 7 years now (earlier model with the 2500 movement). It's just been in for it's first service ever as the power reserve spring went. I use this watch every day in pretty harsh conditions and it has never missed a beat. The service plus new parts cost me £375 but my watch came back looking like new. It was serviced by an Omega authorised service centre (not by Omega themselves as they are robbing bar stewards when it comes to after sales). Now £375 may seem pricey but the watch has been fully serviced/cleaned/repaired and refinished for that price. Also pressure tested and water tested. If you went for a quartz yes, the cost of replacing the battery will be much less, but if you took it to a high street jewller to do this they can't pressure test it or guarantee waterproofing. If you sent it to a repair centre or to Omega then obviously they will charge more.

    For me, auto or hand wind is the way to go on a higher end watch such as Omega/Rolex etal.

  45. #45
    Journeyman
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South UK
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by CH47Crewman View Post
    Welcome Screenplayer.
    I have an auto PO that I've owned for 7 years now (earlier model with the 2500 movement). It's just been in for it's first service ever as the power reserve spring went. I use this watch every day in pretty harsh conditions and it has never missed a beat. The service plus new parts cost me £375 but my watch came back looking like new. It was serviced by an Omega authorised service centre (not by Omega themselves as they are robbing bar stewards when it comes to after sales). Now £375 may seem pricey but the watch has been fully serviced/cleaned/repaired and refinished for that price. Also pressure tested and water tested. If you went for a quartz yes, the cost of replacing the battery will be much less, but if you took it to a high street jewller to do this they can't pressure test it or guarantee waterproofing. If you sent it to a repair centre or to Omega then obviously they will charge more.

    For me, auto or hand wind is the way to go on a higher end watch such as Omega/Rolex etal.
    Thanks, that's good to hear as I went for an automatic and am currently wearing my 2254.50 :)

    Might I ask where you had it serviced? I have a very good watch repairer here were I live but he's proving difficult to get hold of!

    Watch doesn't need a service, I don't think, as I bought it from Parkers and they made sure it was up together before selling, but I'd like new seals and a pressure test as they were unable to guarantee this and I don't know when it was last done!

    In other news, I have a Bergeon 6767F tool and a nice NATO Bond strap heading my way- will post some pics when it's on!

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