Mechanical Chronograph - budget of £200 - what to get??

[Chris W]

Guys,
Looking to add to my collection which consists mainly of divers - think it's about time I added something that wasn't.
Would like to get a nice looking mechanical chronograph.
Due to having to pay for a wedding and other things this year (trying to get rid of our mortgage too) I'm on a strict budget.

So any recommendations for a nice looking £200 mechanical chrono?

[simoscribbler]

The Seagull '63 re-issue, with the display back and a nice aftermarket strap: should be bang on budget. A Dutch site called watchunique used to stock them, and I assume still does.

[TomGW]

I would look for a Poljot Strela re-issue, with the 3133 movement. This has to be the nicest looking mechanical chrono within your budget. Otherwise, look for a decent 'vintage' chrono with the Valjoux 7733 / 7734 movement. There's loads to choose from but it may take a while finding what you're looking for,

[JasonM]

Roys got a nice Seagull powered Piolot style chrono out, the RLT73... I bought one for my nephews 21st birthday at the weekend, its surprisingly good for the money.... ( £250 )

[simes]

How about one of these?


Poljot 3133 - Civilian Flieger watch. by Burbage Photography, on Flickr

[jwg663]

Precista PRS5, with the optional display back.

[rmcsilva]

Both the Seagull and the Poljot are great choices for that price range.

[Bernard]

The PRS 5, or a Seiko 6138/6139/7016.

[Joy]

You can pre-order one of these for £20 over your budget

[Dapper]

Alpha 'Paul Newman' with Seagull ST19 - just over £100......

[Chris W]

You can pre-order one of these for £20 over your budget

That's nice - what is it?

[Bernard]

Alpha 'Paul Newman' with Seagull ST19 - just over £100......

I think this watch is a piece of junk.
Agreed: movement and case are OK, but it says "Chronometer" - it isn't!
To me that's just as bad as a fake: it is something pretending to be something else (and perhaps: better).

Further, the fake subdial at "6": just a small hour hand.
It's goal is just to look like a Rolex Daytona, but it isn't one and even functionality is limited.

[Dapper]

It's goal is just to look like a Rolex Daytona, but it isn't one

Well spotted

[Bernard]

Well spotted

You quote me incompletely... that makes quite a difference. ;-)

[JCJM]

You cannot go wrong with a 6138


http://goldsmithwatchworks.com/repai...138-seiko.html

[uaireadoir]

That's nice - what is it?

Its a Techne SparrowHawk


http://technewatches.biz/en/reference373/31-sparrowhawk.html

[rdwiow]

I think this watch is a piece of junk.
Agreed: movement and case are OK, but it says "Chronometer" - it isn't!
To me that's just as bad as a fake: it is something pretending to be something else (and perhaps: better).

Further, the fake subdial at "6": just a small hour hand.
It's goal is just to look like a Rolex Daytona, but it isn't one and even functionality is limited.

Agree with the above...but mine does actually keep time within COSC limits :-)

[TakesALickin]

I think this watch is a piece of junk.
Agreed: movement and case are OK, but it says "Chronometer" - it isn't!
To me that's just as bad as a fake: it is something pretending to be something else (and perhaps: better).

Further, the fake subdial at "6": just a small hour hand.
It's goal is just to look like a Rolex Daytona, but it isn't one and even functionality is limited.

Disagree with the above. I owned two, they were nicely finished, although not regulated well out of the box. I suppose they could have been if I'd have wanted to bother (same movement as Eddie's PRS-5). No knock against them as homages, though - Hamilton and Gevril homage the Newman as well, without the negativity that Alpha engenders. The 24 subdial is no different than the one on my Tutima NATO (Lemania 5100) - handy to have in a long term isolated environment where you cannot see the sun.

[JasonM]

handy to have in a long term isolated environment where you cannot see the sun.

I see you've been to Scotland...

[Bernard]

Disagree with the above. I owned two, they were nicely finished, although not regulated well out of the box. I suppose they could have been if I'd have wanted to bother (same movement as Eddie's PRS-5). No knock against them as homages, though - Hamilton and Gevril homage the Newman as well, without the negativity that Alpha engenders. The 24 subdial is no different than the one on my Tutima NATO (Lemania 5100) - handy to have in a long term isolated environment where you cannot see the sun.

They are equipped with 24hr dials after complaints about the 12 hr. subdials on the first models.

I don't care if they can be adjusted to run within COSC-specs or not: they have not been certified as chronometers, nor by COSC, nor by any other agency (Besancon, Glashuette, Kew etc.). Therefore: they are making a false claim.

I don't like the idea of being misled.

[lysanderxiii]

If you are buying a $150 chronograph and expect it to be a chronometer, you are stupid enough to deserve to be mislead....

I'd buy a PRS-5

[TakesALickin]

I see you've been to Scotland...

- - - Updated - - -

If you are buying a $150 chronograph and expect it to be a chronometer, you are stupid enough to deserve to be mislead....

Seriously. Well said.

[Dapper]

I don't care if they can be adjusted to run within COSC-specs or not: they have not been certified as chronometers, nor by COSC, nor by any other agency (Besancon, Glashuette, Kew etc.). Therefore: they are making a false claim.

I don't like the idea of being misled.

Definition of chronometer
noun

• An instrument for measuring time accurately in spite of motion or variations in temperature, humidity and air pressure.

[Chris W]

Thanks for the suggestions so far guys - the Seagul 1963 is an interesting one.

Liking the Poljot - where's best to source one?

Also really like Eddie's PRS-5, but will blow my budget.

[Bernard]

Definition of chronometer
noun

• An instrument for measuring time accurately in spite of motion or variations in temperature, humidity and air pressure.

A chronometer watch is a specific type of watch tested and certified to meet certain precision standards. In Switzerland, only timepieces certified by the COSC may use the word 'Chronometer' on them.

The term chronometer was coined by Jeremy Thacker of Beverly, England in 1714, referring to his invention of a clock ensconced in a vacuum chamber. The term chronometer is also used to describe a marine chronometer used for celestial navigation and determination of longitude. The marine chronometer was invented by John Harrison in 1730. This was the first of a series of chronometers which enabled accurate marine navigation. For the next 250 years, an accurate chronometer was essential to any kind of marine or air navigation until the implementation of global satellite navigation at the end of the 20th century. The marine chronometer is no longer used for navigation.

Once mechanical timepiece movements developed sufficient precision to allow for accurate marine navigation, there eventually developed what became known as "chronometer competitions" at astronomical observatories located in Europe. The Neuchâtel Observatory, Geneva Observatory, Besancon Observatory, and Kew Observatory are prominent examples of observatories that certified the accuracy of mechanical timepieces. The observatory testing regime typically lasted for 30 to 50 days and contained accuracy standards that were far more stringent and difficult than modern standards such as those set by COSC. When a movement passed the Observatory, it became certified as an Observatory Chronometer and received a Bulletin de Marche from the Observatory, stipulating the performance of the movement. Because only very few movements were ever given the attention and manufacturing level necessary to pass the Observatory standards, there are very few Observatory Chronometers in existence. Most Observatory Chronometers had movements so specialized to accuracy that they could never withstand being used as wristwatches in normal usage. They were useful only for accuracy competitions, and so never were sold to the public for usage. However,in 1966 and 1967, Girard Perregaux manufactured approximately 670 wristwatches with the Calibre 32A movement, which became Observatory Chronometers certified by the Neuchatel Observatory. These Observatory Chronometers were then sold to the public for normal usage as wristwatches, and some examples of this watch may still be found today. The Observatory competitions ended with the advent of the quartz watch movement, in the late 1960s and early 1970s.

Further: I don't care if it is a 500.000 GBP or 50 GBP watch: if it says chronometer, it should be one, correctly certified.
I really dislike false claims. I think all hell would break loose if Eddie would revert to making a "chronometer" that hadn't been tested properly.
AFAIK: Eddie had the DN and the first 50 of one of his designs certified, the DN by a german top end watchmaker, the other one was certified due to the movements being delivered with certification by ETA.

Nowadays, the test criteria are to be found in: ISO 3159[9] which defines a wrist chronometer with spring-balance oscillator. Only movements which meet the precision criteria established under ISO 3159 are granted an official chronometer certificate. Compare ISO 3158. for Germany: DIN 8319.

[Sharky]

A chronometer watch is a specific type of watch tested and certified to meet certain precision standards. In Switzerland, only timepieces certified by the COSC may use the word 'Chronometer' on them.

But these aren't Swiss

Mark

[Dapper]

But these aren't Swiss

Mark

Nor do they claim to be 'Officially Certified'

[igorRIJEKA]

Vintage Citizen flyback maybe?

[Bernard]

Nor do they claim to be 'Officially Certified'

In fact they are plain fakes with the Alpha branding instead of the Rolex fake branding.

If you look at the bracelet, the end pieces are marked 455b: the code for Rolex bracelets.
Then the bracelet itself: I can't make out the exact numbers, but the location is identical to the codes on the real Cosmograph Daytona.

The whole design makes it clear: the non-functional screw down crown: the watch isn't waterproof afaik!
The 12 / 24 hr. dial at " 6", just to create a resemblance to the Daytona.
The "chronometer" designation although the watch clearly isn't certified (perhaps just timed/adjusted by some underage kid in a Chinese factory).

Really, I loathe this way of doing business. If the product isn't "true", how can you wear it and rely on it telling time?
To me this is - morally - not possible.

Everybody is entitled to his/her own opinion, but there are quite a few negative things I feel I need to say about this watch.

- - - Updated - - -

Vintage Citizen flyback maybe?

These are very good/reliable and based upon the Seiko 6138.

[TakesALickin]

Everybody is entitled to his/her own opinion, but there are quite a few negative things I feel I need to say about this watch.

Thanks for allowing that I am entitled to my own opinion. You can have yours, too. You're not likely to change mine. I just can't get that worked up over the things you're mentioning. No one in their right mind thinks this is a Newman Daytona (anymore than they think that of the Hamilton or Gevril knock-offs that get a free pass). I don't expect it to have diver spec WR. It's a fun knock around watch produced in the style of a watch Rolex stopped making years and years ago. I can't get my panties in wad about it, but if that makes your day, have at it.

[std]

Thanks for the suggestions so far guys - the Seagul 1963 is an interesting one.

Liking the Poljot - where's best to source one?

Also really like Eddie's PRS-5, but will blow my budget.

Chris

The Strela / Poljot is great and I have a Seagull 1963 on the way. However, a new Strela will be over your budget. Try www.poljot24.de. Julian is great to deal with and ships to the UK. I work sometimes in Munich and have visited him personally and can vouch for him.

[Robertf]

It would be a second hand 3133 strela for me. should be achieveable for £200. Just a great looking honest mechanical chronograph.

[zelig]

What about the Arctos that was on SC recently?
(munchies thread) ;



z

[5avvy]

For that money, I'd second the Strela or a PRS5 - both should be had used for within the stated budget.