Reply With QuoteThat's a very beutifull watch. I'm glad my grails are more in my pricerange.
.......if only it was mine!!
This is a bit of a classic WIS story that I really had to share. Like any good watch-nut I always check out what friends/colleagues have on their wrists and today we had a bit of a lunchtime get-together and a friend's husband happened to have my one of my personal grails on his wrist. Long story short, I managed to get a good look at the watch, try it on, and even take a few cheeky snaps. (I think he thought I was a bit mad).
I give you my thoughts.
The watch in question is the Patek Phillipe 5205G annual calendar. In a lot of ways the Patek AC's have always been the sweet-spot in the Patek lineup for any WIS who feels the undeniable urge to own Patek, wants a degree of complication, but does not have the kind of wealth to drop high 5/low 6-figures on a perpetual calendar watch - which I suppose is the true holy grail for many. (To sound like a broken record, the AC's were more accessable when they were high-teens rather than low-30's, but there you go).
The design of the 5205 has been generally well-received, but some of the traditionalists have complained that not only is it a bit large/thick but also the design is a bit faddy and modern. I disagree as I feel the design harks back to Art Deco whilst looking almost sporty for a dress watch. It looks are surprisingly flexible for a high-end gold watch - white gold is so much more reserved than yellow or rose and the watch seems to go very well with semi-casual attire as well as formal wear - ironically it may appear too casual for some - but I'd probably draw the line at saying it goes with jeans and a t-shirt. I wonder whether it is actually quite telling that they only make it in WG? What I think Patek have done is created a kind of bridge watch between the obviously sporty Aquanaut/Nautilus line, and the traditional Cavaltrava/Officer style Pateks. I believe they are also aiming for a slightly younger clientele than the Cavaltrava's, possibly someone who already has a Nautilus. After all, they are still making the 5146 and 5396 AC's for people who prefer the classic Patek look (with rose and yellow gold options). Similarly you can see enough of the same DNA in the 5960, 5207, 5208 and even 5130 and 6000 watches to make the 5205 sufficiently "Patek" and part of the overall range. To me, it is a very well judged design move for a very traditional company. I also suspect that the reason they have discontinued the "sector dial" 5396 is that the 5205/5960 look is going to be "modern" line.
The watch really does look lovely. The dial is a work of art, but subtle with it. You only see how intricate it is when you look really close - the hour and minute markers are beautifully applied, the colours and textures of the dial blend wonderfully, and it looks very different with changing light conditions. (I tried to photograph this but I was a bit rushed and don't think I really did it justice - it's much less black and white than pics show).
Similarly the case is very well-finished - it's all mirror-polished and the curves and lines blend perfectly. The hollow lugs which some have criticised are not really obvious unless you look closely, and give the case character. I've never had much experience of white gold before but it makes the case feel slightly weightier, and it is a slightly different shade to SS - but if I'm being completely honest, I couldn't distinguish the two without trying to guage the density. (I guess it's knowing that is the important thing).
I have seen the lighter dial briefly in an AD and I would be hard pushed to pick between the two. I suspect the lighter one has the same ever-changing properties with light, and it probably looks slightly more formal, the darker is less formal and blends with the dark strap more cohesively, but I think I'd be happy with either.
Typically in my excitement, I forgot to take a wrist-shot, but the watch wears smallish, discreet even, for a 40mm - as the bezel is curved and quite large, it is certainly not an in-yer-face watch. It's quite long lug-to-lug, but sat very nicely on my small/medium wrists. IMO you wouldn't want a massive Patek anyway, but it would probably look a little too small on massive wrists.
Being picky, I think it's about time Patek adopted AR-coated crystal - I'm not sure any of their watches have it, but given that most Pateks are not intended for hard use, durability is not really an excuse. Legibility is possibly slightly sub-par - polished hands look very nice, but can sometimes catch a dark reflection as dissappear (although my Navi does the same and it has an AR coating). Secondly (and at risk of accusations of heresy), I'm not convinced the movement looks that amazing - maybe my expectations are a little high, and I'm looking at the wrong aspects of the movement, but it doesn't look as bamm!-stunning as I expected. Certainly Lange seem to look more intricate (as is their reputation), but even if you look a some of Glashutte Original's range, there seems to be more panache. Perhaps it is the finishing of the individual components that makes it special?
The only other downside is of course the price - over £30k for a watch is pretty steep for anyone, especially when you consider what a great collection you could put together for that kind of money.
Thus an interesting quesiton arises after all this; after having a decent play with one, would I sell all of my current collection to buy a 5205? This is a difficult one. Doing the "math", I would not be too far off if I sold all my current watches and scraped some cash together. Truth is though the 5205 is not a do-it-all watch. Yes, it a great combination of sport/dressy, especially with the darker dial, but it would be difficult to wear it as a sole, everyday watch as I would worry about damaging it, not to mention swimming in it. I personally would need at least one other decent watch, maybe two. This also raises the eternal "few expensive vs many cheaper" watches debate - I fall on the side that as you get more watches there are diminishing returns from each addition, but the 5205 is just so expensive that I just don't think I could keep any others - and I think optimum would be about 3-5 watches. (The obviously choice if I could keep one would be to keep my Sub date, and have a 5205 as well..... you can always dream)! However, it was certainly nice to extensively handle such a high-end piece though.
(BTW how much can you get for a kidney these days?)
Anyway, here's some pics. Sorry if they're a liitle inconsistant, I just rattled off as many as I could in the time (might have had a bit of wine as well)!
And of course, thanks to my new best friend for letting me put his watch on t'internet. (I'm trying to get him to join tz-uk!)
That's a very beutifull watch. I'm glad my grails are more in my pricerange.
Sorry, but does nothing for me...........
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
Great post. The reason I love this place.
Good story and review, the pictures are fantastic.
Nice movement shot.
Is one of the shots the watch resting on bubble wrap?
I never shot with bubble wrap but I feel abtract shoot coming on.
:D
Ta.Originally Posted by pastrana72
It's actually one of the cushions on the spare bed, it has little mirror-like buttons on. I grabbed it as I was trying to light up the movement better, but I've used it before when I've had more time. It gives quite a cool effect.
It is a great looking watch no question, I dread to think what it costs, and doubt if I would ever part with my hard earned on one any time soon
I have to agree, not even going to think about what that might cost tooSorry, but does nothing for me...........
Oh cool, Thanks.Ta.
It's actually one of the cushions on the spare bed, it has little mirror-like buttons on. I grabbed it as I was trying to light up the movement better, but I've used it before when I've had more time. It gives quite a cool effect.
I can see that now. It looked like bubble wrap at first.
I reckon I have seen some similar cushions in my house at some stage I will have a search.
Future shoot from here.
good macro work on it - nice detail
Great story, thanks for sharing!
The mirror finish in unbelievable! And the details on the movement and dial are out of this world! ...a little disappointed not to see a WR rating though :lol: :lol:
i absolutely love that. would be nicer in gold tho... :drunken: :drunken:
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
Absolutely fantastic pics!
Beautiful watch, and a nice story. Personally, I think it's slightly too tall on the wrist, but a minor gripe.
That's a beautiful watch, and I like the lugs!!!!
Miles
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Can quite honestly say I would prefer to have this.
Don't really like Patek and I think it is because their so expensive I know I will never own one and for that reason I am put off slightly..
That's absolutely beautiful. I love it.
It's a beautiful watch, but even if I could afford it, I'd be too scared of damaging it to ever wear it. Four figures I can live with, five figures for a watch is just too rich for my blood. Must buy a lottery ticket...
Yes, the curved bezel does give it quite a tall profile, certainly compared with normal Calatrava style case, but also the Nautilus fits surprisingly flat on the wrist (as you know). The 5960 chrono sits really high on the wrist. This is why I'd say it has a little bit of a dual character - it's not really flat enought or has a plain enough dial to be truely dressy, but you wouldn't really call it sporty either. I do think this is what Patek are going for - traditionalists will go for the 5396.
They are all nice. After some deliberation, I went for the 5146G, apologies for the dust/lint/general grub.
Very nice! The 5146 is definitely more the classic Patek look. The grey dial/WG combo is definitely the one to go for IMO. Again it's lends it a more dual dress/casual character which you don't get with the ligher dials and RG/YG.
Arguably the power reserve is more useful/desirable than the 24hr dial on the 5205/5396.
How long have you had the watch, did you get it new, and what are your impressions?
(The other advantage of the 5146 is that since it's been around longer, there is the opportunity to pick one up used for a decent saving).
I got it new, 18 months ago. I'm very impressed with it, but it loses 1 sec/day, which is my only complaint, as I prefer watches to gain. Apart from that, it's great. They are going up so fast (I think it's now about £7k more than when I bought mine) that it was a case of now or never.
I don't think -1 is too bad!
I know what you mean about prices. I've always had a half-plan to buy myself a Patek for my 50th (in a few years time), but looking at the way prices have changed, it means you're chasing moving goalpost - I think the 5205 was £mid-20's when it was introduced, now it's low 30's. As I said, it's not that long ago Patek AC's were in the £high teens - admittedly this was still a hell of a lot for a watch, but you can just about rationalize it. (The VAT changes have made a bit of a difference on these high-end watches as well).
I can see what you mean by now-or-never, since they're going to be £50k before we know it.
Beautiful watch, the price is a bit to steep though...
I do not do moon phases, but apart from that the watch is certainly a nice departure from the norm.
Just buy one right now before they go up again. Money is worth nothing, you might as well have something nice instead.
That's dangerous talk, sir!
It is a serious issue though. With current economic conditions it's very unpredictable what prices will do. You can be sure they won't go down though!
major league piece. will see how soon it appears in Petaling Street markets in Kuala Lumpur :lol:
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