The watch strap flaw

I seldom fit straps (of whatever material) to any of my watches - for one simple reason - it's very hard to get them off again without marking the watch lugs.

This is because the strap material sits flush with the lug all the way around. So you're battling with compressing the strap material to release the spring bar end. Some lug marks are virtually impossible to avoid.

Why don't all strap makers 'notch' away part of the underside of the strap to allow the spring bar tool to 'slide' the end inwards without the usual risk of putting pressure on the lug.

I know that some straps are like this. And I like the Hirsch (and probably others) method where there's a little lever to release one end of the spring bar.

Anyhow, it seems an obvious thing that all strap makers should be doing, and it's a cheap manufacturing shortcut when they don't.

https://youtu.be/a-gllHbwhSo?si=v8XHM3vCcu5Cw4m0

I find this works and saves damaging expensive straps

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Originally Posted by Slevin Kelevra

https://youtu.be/a-gllHbwhSo?si=v8XHM3vCcu5Cw4m0

I find this works and saves damaging expensive straps

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I've seen that method yes, and I'm sure it does work well in some cases, but against a rubber diver's strap it can still be a right battle. Though I'd be less worried about the damaging the strap than I am about the watch - or indeed my fingers!

Strap makers could make it all easier though, just with some thoughtful design.

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Originally Posted by Mouse

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Why don't all strap makers 'notch' away part of the underside of the strap to allow the spring bar tool to 'slide' the end inwards without the usual risk of putting pressure on the lug.
...

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I understand what you're saying, but that’s the wrong way round. When removing, I've always used a springbar tool from the front (dial side). Opposite for attaching. Reason being that you're then moving the springbar towards the bottom of the lugs rather than the top. Gripping the strap firmly at the lug and pulling down is usually enough to be able to get the tool to engage. It's not a lever action but a motion perpendicular to the lug. If the springbar tool is used carefully there should be no marks on the lugs. (The Bergeon tool is wedge-shaped and makes this easier). Without wanting to sound like kn*b, it's a skill like a lot of things we do, and practice is key to acquiring the 'knack'.

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Originally Posted by Geralt

I understand what you're saying, but that’s the wrong way round. When removing, I've always used a springbar tool from the front (dial side). Opposite for attaching. Reason being that you're then moving the springbar towards the bottom of the lugs rather than the top. Gripping the strap firmly at the lug and pulling down is usually enough to be able to get the tool to engage. It's not a lever action but a motion perpendicular to the lug. If the springbar tool is used carefully there should be no marks on the lugs. (The Bergeon tool is wedge-shaped and makes this easier). Without wanting to sound like kn*b, it's a skill like a lot of things we do, and practice is key to acquiring the 'knack'.

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I've never thought of attacking it from the dial side. I can see how that works - but can also see how it might not! As you say, it needs a certain skill whatever your chosen method. I've also wished I had three hands sometimes!

But really, my OP was just about typical strap design. It makes changing straps harder (for some us at least) than it might otherwise be imo.

Pinhole lugs ftw :)

The system on the Panerai Luminor and Submersible models is the winner for me.

I just wear beaters.

And oh, that floss post... I thought it was a very well targeted ad on tapatalk ;D

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BUBI
@porque.racing

Bergeon 6767 used from the underside of the lugs will cope with anything, if the straps a bit tight it will need squeezing a little, but with care the tool will go in and engage the end of the springbar. Good light and a magnifier are essential, I suspect this is where people go wrong. If the watch is held firmly between thumb and forefinger the strap or tool can`t go anywhere, just depress the end of the springbar and ease it out of the hole, then do the other side.

The only time I use one of the twin fork tools is for solid end links on bracelets that are a very snug fit, they're fiddly to use and I think there's more chance of slipping and marking the lugs. As a precaution it pays to put tape on the underside of the lugs, especially when refitting straps or bracelets.

Strap removal and replacement can be done without marking lugs, I do it frequently. Like most things, practice makes perfect........unless you're one of those ham-fisted folk who shouldn't go anywhere near fiddly jobs.

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Originally Posted by DMC102

The system on the Panerai Luminor and Submersible models is the winner for me.

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The sprung detent on the underside of the lug?

Photo borrowed from Panerai.com
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...304cbf6205.jpg

Damn good idea, much better than the wire lugs and small screws on Radiomir imo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Drilled lugs help.

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Originally Posted by NigeG

The sprung detent on the underside of the lug?

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Exactly. Simplicity itself, and zero chance of scratches using the correct plastic tool, or - in an emergency - a cocktail stick broken in two [emoji846]

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Originally Posted by gunner

Drilled lugs help.

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Every time if possible please.