Helvetia 1960s Depthomatic brought back to life
For a while I’ve wanted a watch with a depth gauge feature. When a 1968 Helvetia Depthomatic with original B&P came up I had to have it, even though it had some issues.
This is the watch today; I’ve told the story if how it got to this stage below.
https://i.imgur.com/ZtCv5Jn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uPMJxvw.jpg
The seller was very honest about some of the issues. These included the bezel not rotating, sediment preventing the caseback coming off and a very scratched up crystal. The crystal is the most critical component, as it contains the depth gauge function and is also the structural mounting for the bezel - more below.
https://i.imgur.com/PBzKZUU.jpg
The first job was to take everything apart and clean it. In the end I had to take the crystal out to get the bezel off. The depth gauge works by water entering a capillary tube that runs around the edge of the crystal. The greater the pressure, the further the water runs round the tube. The opening of the tube was completely blocked with sediment.
https://i.imgur.com/LITdEW7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CkNIk4M.jpg
The caseback is held on by a flanged ring, like Vostoks and Blancpains, which I really like as it wears the seal less. This one was encrusted with sediment.
https://i.imgur.com/YIRx4gP.jpg
The inside of the caseback has some very interesting information.
https://i.imgur.com/fNFjl3M.jpg
Firstly, the Helvetia serial number 5758430 tallies with the date on the warranty of 1968, according to Carl’s helvetiahistory.co.uk site.
Secondly, the area ground out gives away that the original branding on the case was Nivada. As well as their own brand, they provided versions of this watch for a number of manufacturers including Helvetia. I have seen one other Helvetia with the caseback marked in exactly this way.
The dial has clearly spent many years in the sun.
https://i.imgur.com/1vM5yDI.jpg
I know people have mixed feelings about tropical dials but I love this effect. Apparently the lume is Tritium.
This is the case and the back of the bezel with most of the sediment removed.
https://i.imgur.com/oSNjUNI.jpg
The circlip holds the bezel onto the crystal. The whole thing really was filthy, but I think it was years of use in the water.
https://i.imgur.com/OuMDheb.jpg
The crystal cleaned up nicely. I was very careful pressing it into the case, as it is essentially irreplaceable and contains all of the main features of the watch including the depth gauge capillary and dial, and the bezel mount.
https://i.imgur.com/1xmIjBR.jpg
I reassembled the rest of the watch but ran into a problem. I had loosened too much the screw that holds the stem in place. This resulted in the plate it connects to detaching. Repairing this requires the dial to come off; way beyond me. In any event I felt the watch deserved a proper service so I booked it in with Olivier (.olli.)
Olivier has done a fantastic job and also told me a bit about the movement. He also had the hands relumed by James Hyman who did a great job as well.
The movement is based on an ETA 2520 ebauche, with the rotor modified to use a bearing. The three spoke balance may also be a Helvetia modification. The movement is signed Helvetia and with the calibre number ‘4094 patented’ dial side. For a Helvetia nerd like me it’s quite nice to know that this very innovative manufacturer hadn’t quite given up their ambition for in-house quality and differentiation, as they started the slide into oblivion during the ‘70s. If any ETA experts can add any details I’d be interested.
I also think the movement looks beautiful all cleaned up - it was filthy before. Olivier has it performing very well across five positions, with a good power reserve and the auto winding working perfectly.
https://i.imgur.com/RnaDElo.jpg
I have the original box and warranty paper. From that I was able to find the shop, Mazzotti, that first sold the watch. Mazzotti is in Cervia on the Adriatic coast near Ravenna, Italy. The shop doesn’t look to have changed much and in fact is still in the ownership of the Mazzotti family of the proprietor who sold this watch.
http://web.tiscali.it/orologeria/immagini/vetrine.jpg
All in all I’m delighted with my depth gauge watch, even if I will never risk trying out its main feature. I think I just need a nice original Tropic Sport strap now...
https://i.imgur.com/UUT7wKa.jpg
Helvetia 1960s Depthomatic brought back to life
Quote:
Originally Posted by
snowman
Yeah, makes sense - Great watch, though.
I can't get excited about a different coloured font on JAFR, but I love these unique watches.
M
JAFR took me a while [emoji1787]