Manual wind sub seconds- suggestions?

Easter weekend research ahead of my 40th birthday has whittled down some contenders. I’m looking for a manual wind, no date but with sub seconds. Initially I had been looking at Panerai but, after some reflection can’t justify that expenditure - it would be a gift from family - so have been looking at alternatives.

First up was from Nomos their Orion model. Different from my current collection and could be dressed up or down quite easily https://nomos-glashuette.com/en/orion/orion-38-387. However it appears to be on a 6 month lead time…I also quite like the Club range but think preference is with the Orion at the moment.

Secondly a model from Junghans https://www.junghans.de/en/collectio...27350402?c=493 also fits the bill. More immediately available but not sure it fully floats by boat.

I’ve also looked across vintage, I’ve a couple of vintage pieces (Pogue, Longines electric) and found a couple of options, Breitling TopTime chrono and also an Omega Chronostop. They tick the brand box but am conscious of vintage needing ongoing maintenance

Any other considerations from the TZUK collective?

Stowa Marine Original.

Maybe off the wall a little but what about the Seagull 1963 , available in 38 and 42 case size, vintage look and feel, cheap enough to be disposable (c£200) so no service worries. Interesting history , display back and cool movement . Maybe put a little towards a Panerai fund as well


https://i.imgur.com/1IeJHAMh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EPo9Xx5h.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/gkAiLLdh.jpg

Definitely the Nomos Club. Special enough for an occasion but sensibly-enough priced to alleviate guilt! Pretty sexy too.

Timor reissues fit the bill.

https://timorwatch.com/products/heritage-field

Also the ATP.

https://timorwatch.com/products/heritage-field-atp

Go digging for a decent late Omega thirty series from the late fifties to early sixties. You simply will not get the quality of movement anywhere else for the price.

Vintage Smiths De Luxe?

All made in England (well, the jewels were made in Scotland)

Cool, classic and classy.

Also what Edmund Hillary wore to the top of Everest in '53

Try looking at JLC Reversos.

Perhaps a Sewills Ferreira from our host? With a 3/4 plate movement with Glucydur balance, swan neck regulator, Nivarox hairspring etc it's remarkable value at the price. It's on my list if I ever downsize my group, along with Dornbluth - of course I'd get to sell far fewer watches with the Sewills!

Nomos is an obvious choice but I'm not sure the Orion can be dressed down particularly. They are really slim and elegant, almost too smart for casual attire. Club would be more versatile. I had the 701 and loved it but would go for open case back in future. The Alpha movement is worth seeing imo.

I’m biased as I have one but a nomos club is an excellent choice. Stowa partitio is an alternative.

The Orion is very dressy no matter how you look at it. If you want an occasion watch that you can put on and remember who gave it to you, it might fit the bill. Otherwise, if it was me, it would spend most of its life in the box, rather than on the wrist.

Pinion Pure Pro maybe ?

I have the bronze...

https://i.postimg.cc/2jtChq7F/4-C52-...EB964-D875.jpg

...but they are also available in steel.

https://www.pinionwatches.com/wp-con...steel-hero.jpg

z

At that price point its hard to beat the Nomos.. though personally I find the club/ahoi to be less generic than the Orion. All fine watches with a nice view from the back too.

https://www.zeno-watch.ch/wp-content...-1-600x865.jpg
https://www.zeno-watch.ch/product/no...a-xl-winder-2/

Any Nomos with the Alpha movement, it’s just a matter of which style you prefer, Orion, Club or Tangente. I think you have to spend an awful lot more to get better.

I have the Tangente 139 which is lovely. I do think the premium for a sapphire back is worth paying for. I have a Dornblüth on order, but that Is a much bigger and more expensive watch, although relatively bespoke.

Dave


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Originally Posted by jwg663

Stowa Marine Original.

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Thank you for suggestion. Led me to discovering this, which would differentiate further my small collection https://www.stowa.de/en/Marine+Origi...ze+Vintage.htm

Decisions decisions

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Originally Posted by magirus

Perhaps a Sewills Ferreira from our host? With a 3/4 plate movement with Glucydur balance, swan neck regulator, Nivarox hairspring etc it's remarkable value at the price. It's on my list if I ever downsize my group, along with Dornbluth - of course I'd get to sell far fewer watches with the Sewills!

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Great suggestion, I will look into that further

I should have said that I have an Archimede Deck Watch in the "marine " style, bought it from SC 7 years ago to test the size and style and size against a possible future purchase of a Dornbluth. What I like about the Archimedes is that although they are the same 42mm case size as most others of this type they have 20mm lugs which helps them wear a tad smaller IMHO. The cases are top quality, made by themselves under the "Ickler" name. They also do a bronze version. I just bought a new very dark blue strap for mine after looking for ages. Bronze Archimede here .



https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-...-PJXCghH-L.jpg

Like many my first reaction was Nomos. Haven’t seen my personal favourite mentioned, the Ludwig. I genuinely dislike roman numerals on any watch except that one. It is quite dressy though. Perhaps a Tangente Sport would fit your criteria well.

At the higher end of the spectrum, Omega have announced this- the CK859 reissue which seems to tick a lot of your boxes.

https://k8q7r7a2.stackpathcdn.com/wp...1.99.002-2.jpg


https://monochrome-watches.com/omega...oducing-price/


Appreciate it's more expensive than the Nomos, but it's still likely to be cheaper than the Panerai.
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Dornbluth, nothing competes with any of the below in that it will be built for you. You can also add an engraving to the 3/4 plate to make it a bit extra special.

A little further down the line there is Tourby. Another company who will make the watch to your specifications and are an absolute pleasure to deal with, cannot recommend them enough.

Stowa marine. Lovely watches and a nice company to deal with.

Another vote for a Nomos Club. Excellent watch for the money. One of the few I regret selling on here.

https://i.imgur.com/qjNk3zyh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dpqceHNh.jpg

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Originally Posted by Rev-O

Vintage Smiths De Luxe?

All made in England (well, the jewels were made in Scotland)

Cool, classic and classy.

Also what Edmund Hillary wore to the top of Everest in '53

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Yes, indeed.

Vintage is often good.

For example and as an alternative to British, several years ago I bought a 50s/60s Oris manual wind with subseconds dial. It's a lovely watch and I often wear it. Paid £40 for it. Looks great. Runs great.

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Originally Posted by M1011

Another vote for a Nomos Club. Excellent watch for the money. One of the few I regret selling on here.

https://i.imgur.com/qjNk3zyh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dpqceHNh.jpg

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Beautiful. I've been so close to buying one for so long.

Vintage is a good option. I happen to have this model of a rather lovely Longines, although this image isn't mine.

https://www.vintagegoldwatches.com/w...Gold-10-WM.jpg

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound, probably used?

https://cdn.watchbase.com/watch/lg/o...445-05-1e.webp

Value wise, cannot beat Rodina R005

https://www.watchreviewblog.com/wp-c...dina-wrist.jpg

I agree on Nomos as the most sensible choice here.
Since you already own a Longines have a look on some of their modern heritage models.
I find the Heritage Military 1938 a handsome contender:

https://i.postimg.cc/Vs0zMZ4k/Longin...4-53-2-3-1.jpg



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How about a Precista CAF?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d15de2a3e7.jpg


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Originally Posted by witti

I agree on Nomos as the most sensible choice here.
Since you already own a Longines have a look on some of their modern heritage models.
I find the Heritage Military 1938 a handsome contender:

https://i.postimg.cc/Vs0zMZ4k/Longin...4-53-2-3-1.jpg



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Secretly hoping it’s a decent size ie 36mm before I google it because that dial is sweet!


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Originally Posted by kinyik

Secretly hoping it’s a decent size ie 36mm before I google it because that dial is sweet!


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Lol 43mm…..


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Originally Posted by M4tt

Go digging for a decent late Omega thirty series from the late fifties to early sixties. You simply will not get the quality of movement anywhere else for the price.

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+1, these movements are bombproof. I’ve worked on several and despite having a long hard life they always seem to run well after some TLC. Later cal 600 are better timekeepers (generally) but nowhere near as robust.

A used Durex would fit the bill nicely...
https://thumbsnap.com/s/aXH2ErWh.jpg

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Originally Posted by kinyik

Lol 43mm…..


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Which is the size of the original model. Not a case of Longines adding a few extra millimetres to a reissue. I like that model a lot.

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Originally Posted by seabiscuit

Which is the size of the original model. Not a case of Longines adding a few extra millimetres to a reissue. I like that model a lot.

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Interesting. Sadly don’t have the wrists for that but again that dial is something else. Love the matte and tritium overtones.


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LACO WATCH NAVY CUXHAVEN
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7606fdd878.jpg

Sbgk005 grand seiko?

Sorry can't post a pic as on phone.

Another vote for Stowa, although if you like the Nomos Orion, my choice would be the Antea Klassik KS:

https://www.stowa.de/en/Antea+Klassik+KS.htm

For a bigger watch at 41mm, there’s the Antea Klassik 41 Siver:

https://www.stowa.de/en/Antea+Klassik+41.htm

These watches are not Nomos clones as some have alleged because Stowa have a history of very similar Bauhaus designs from the 1930s.

Cheers,

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kinyik

Interesting. Sadly don’t have the wrists for that but again that dial is something else. Love the matte and tritium overtones.


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b307da80a7.jpg

Here is my Longines on wrist, the lug length is relatively short so isn’t as large as it could be - 8 inch wrist. I would say a great alternative to a Panerai for the OP.

Thanks all. The Longines has definitely made the list. First pass I thought it was auto only but have found the correct manual version.

One of my manual winds
https://i.postimg.cc/wM8sPCHs/AED335...B1655-FA61.jpg

As previously mentioned, Dornblüth make some nice models that might fit the bill.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a82dbd69ea.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/CReiNYq.jpg

Sector. It speaks for itself.

Thanks once again for all the suggestions.

Having flirted with a number of ideas, I think a modern piece, mainly due to larger size, is going to be a better fit for a long term keeper as opposed to the vintage route.

Therefore I think I’m down to two options. Longines per posts above which suits the brief to the tee and has a shade of Panerai (loosely)

https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/i...r=16%3A9&w=914

Or the Stowa which offers a little bronze flavour. Two dial options seem to be available and strikes me similar to the Dornblouth above - which is out of my price bracket

https://www.stowa.de/cosmoshop/defau...stowa-2600.jpg

The Nomos is now an outside contender which I’m keen to try, especially the Club range.

As an owner of 2 Dornbluth and 2 Stowa I say Stowa by a country mile. I have been looking at that very marine watch myself its one of the nicest I have seen out there in that price bracket.

I do recommend you take a look at Tourby though, I think they come in a little more than Stowa but you can occasionally find some sales.

Don't dismiss the 35mm Orion, I remember setting out to buy one of the bigger versions but concluding that the designer got it right first time.

https://i.ibb.co/j3pMHc2/EF5-BD59-A-...7279708441.jpg

https://ibb.co/L9GtvLW
https://ibb.co/L9GtvLW
There is effectively no bezel only dial on these and that means there is a a lot more to that extra 3mm of the 38 than an extra 3mm of goodness. You end up without the perfect dial proportion of the original and a little bit too much white space plus longer lugs.

When I tried the two the lugs were the biggest issue. If you start with a small cases long thin lugs are ok, scaling things up the watch sat a little prouder on my wrist and the angle of the strap was plain wrong. Bigger wrists may work better but it really is worth trying.

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Originally Posted by raysablade

Don't dismiss the 35mm Orion, I remember setting out to buy one of the bigger versions but concluding that the designer got it right first time.

https://i.ibb.co/j3pMHc2/EF5-BD59-A-...7279708441.jpg

https://ibb.co/L9GtvLW
https://ibb.co/L9GtvLW
There is effectively no bezel only dial on these and that means there is a a lot more to that extra 3mm of the 38 than an extra 3mm of goodness. You end up without the perfect dial proportion of the original and a little bit too much white space plus longer lugs.

When I tried the two the lugs were the biggest issue. If you start with a small cases long thin lugs are ok, scaling things up the watch sat a little prouder on my wrist and the angle of the strap was plain wrong. Bigger wrists may work better but it really is worth trying.

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Cracking looking watch indeed.

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Originally Posted by Lippy

Cracking looking watch indeed.

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Nomos are remarkable in other ways, they even make it going wrong a pleasure:-)

https://i.ibb.co/q7WXpbr/image.jpg


https://i.ibb.co/VTyZyjQ/image.jpg

https://ibb.co/NtmQKwy

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Originally Posted by raysablade

Nomos are remarkable in other ways, they even make it going wrong a pleasure:-)

https://i.ibb.co/q7WXpbr/image.jpg

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That is rather nice. :-)